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330: And All Through The Shop, Not A Creature Was Stirring... Expect For This Hungry Mouse
330: And All Through The Shop, Not A Creature Was Stirring... Expect For This Hungry Mouse
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About this episode
Rodent damage to vehicle wiring can cause unique and challenging electrical issues, especially when mice chew on critical CAN bus wires. The host shares intriguing cases, including two Ford F-150s with the same wire chewed years apart and a complex 2019 Toyota Corolla HVAC problem caused by a mouse chewing wires under the fuse box. The episode highlights how rodent damage can cause open and short circuits, backfeed power through modules, and create puzzling symptoms. Diagnostic tips include checking CAN bus bias voltage and carefully tracing power feeds to isolate faults. It’s a deep dive into unusual electrical diagnostics driven by unexpected rodent behavior.
Topics:
rodent damage
electrical wiring issues
can bus diagnostics
open and short circuits
diagnostic techniques
hvac system faults
power backfeed
ford f-150 wiring
toyota corolla hvac
automotive troubleshooting
This week on the show I share an interesting issue on a 2019 Toyota Corolla where the HVAC controls stay operational after the key is left on, and also how rodents keep us on our toes by creating unique problems.
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Technical
Too Afraid to Ask
Car
Ford F150
"So I'll give you the scenario and actually I don't even have the exact year. I think it was around a 2010 ish Ford F-150 and it wouldn't start and you couldn't communicate with a number of control modules."
Car
Ford Escape
"...twisted pair. I don't know. Anyways, I had a Ford Escape recently, where that was the case. Not only did t..."
Car
Toyota Corolla
"...allowed this to happen. So this was a 2019 Toyota Corolla. And the issue that they were having was once you..."
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Hey, what's going on, Automotive World?
Welcome to another episode of the Automotive Diagnostic Podcast.
My name is Sean Tipping and I'll be your host once again for this week's episode.
Thank you so much for joining me.
Just me on the show this week and I am going to be talking about mice this week
on the show.
Yeah.
Rodents, it's usually mice.
You see this a lot on vehicles where there is rodent damage to the electrical system.
It's usually wiring.
I'm sure everyone out there, if you've been in this industry for any period of time,
you've seen the same thing.
But I had a really interesting one this week.
Because of the damage that was done, how it was done, it created a very interesting
problem and it got me thinking about some of the other rodent damage vehicles
that I've seen over the years where, I mean, number one, it's usually an open circuit,
but sometimes can be a shorted circuit or in the case of the one I dealt with this week,
it was open and shorted, right?
So you didn't have power where you expected to have power and you did have power and
another wire you didn't expect to have power on.
So obviously those can happen and it's, you know, not a huge mystery once you
find where the damage is, you can see it pretty plainly.
The thing about rodent damage to wiring is that for the most part, it is going to be a
unique one-off scenario that you may never see that exact fault on that type of vehicle ever again.
Now, that's not 100% true.
And I'll give you an example because, of course, there are specific areas in the vehicle
within components that might attract a rodent, right?
They are going to go for the small spaces that are maybe contained, a place where that they feel
that they could build a nest, right?
And they do they bring in stuff and you can see the like padding from or insulation or
nuts and seeds and, you know, things like that, you'll see little nests.
But then wherever they pick to make their home, they end up chewing on wiring and somehow
or another, it always ends up being the can wires, it seems, that they go for.
There was an issue with, I think it was either Toyota or Ford where they had like a
soy based insulation on their wiring and it was almost like attractive to rodents and so
they were chewing up the insulation like crazy on these.
But I mean, again, we've been seeing this for years.
This is nothing new.
Of course, up here in Minnesota, it seems to happen in the winter time even more
so because of course, they're looking for a nice warm place to spend the winter and
hey, under the hood or in the cab of the vehicle is a great place to make a little mouse home.
So of course, chewing wiring, we're going to have issues and that's what I'm going to be
talking about today.
But also just kind of the uniqueness.
Now, let me start off actually with one that I thought this was pretty crazy that
the mouse ended up chewing the same wire on a similar truck years apart.
So I'll give you the scenario and actually I don't even have the exact year.
I think it was around a 2010 ish Ford F-150 and it wouldn't start and you couldn't
communicate with a number of control modules.
It was the ABS, the PCM and I think the airbag control module, maybe one other one.
So there was four or five different modules you couldn't communicate with.
And you know, you could look at the live network thing and OK, all these modules are
offline and I ended up finding, OK, what do they share?
They all share a power feed from a run start relay that's in the fuse box under
the hood. And this is the old style where that fuse box is like right front
and center under the hood when you open it up kind of over the top of the fan
shroud. So relay in there, body control module operates, it turns it on, it sends
power to these other modules. And interestingly enough, this is hindsight.
I was actually putting this together for a network class that I presented.
But you could actually see on the CAN bus networks that these modules lived on
where, you know, they should be communicating, but they're not.
You could actually see the bias voltage of the network be lower than where
you expected. Now, this is kind of a networking thing, but I just thought I
pointed out because you can see it plain as day when these modules are not
receiving the power feed that they need, but they're still on the bus like
physically connected. They'll actually drag that bias voltage down below
two and a half. It's just something to pay attention to, right?
If you see your bias voltage on your CAN bus network is not at two and a
half, you know, it's significantly elevated or it's below, you can say,
hey, I might have a power feed issue to a module or modules in this case.
And then the opposite, if it's higher than expected, I might have a ground
issue to a module or modules. And it's not going to solve the problem
for you just by observing that. And I'm sure there's circumstances where
maybe it doesn't necessarily apply to the fix, but a lot of the times it
can at least get you thinking like, oh, okay, I see a bunch of modules I
can't talk to my bias voltage is lower than I'd expect. Do they share a power
feed? That would be the next thing is not like to make that like
determination right on the spot. I definitely have this, but let me
take stock of these modules and see, do they share a power feed? And
then maybe I'll go after that. Now, full transparency. This was back
in like, I think 2019 that I diagnosed this vehicle. So it was
a long time ago, but I had some screenshots of it and stuff. I
wasn't aware of looking at bias voltage. I did not make that that
clarification at that point. I went through the hard way and then I
just ended up checking like, hey, I have all these modules. The
CAN bus pattern actually looked halfway decent. Again, paying
specific attention, you could see the bias is a little low, but
the traffic was still there. I could still communicate with
other things. I didn't seem like I had an open, I think, you
know, 60 ohms on the on the bus that they were on. And I
eventually got to the point that, okay, all these modules share a
power feed found that it was that run start relay, which is
controlled by the BCM. It was not being controlled by the BCM.
There's a single wire the BCM uses to control that relay in
that under hood fuse box, you know, wasn't getting the
signal and found that there was a wire underneath that fuse
box that was chewed through by a mouse. Okay, easy enough to
fix, right? Just patch up the wire and you're good to go. And
it makes sense that the mouse wanted to get into this little
contained space underneath the this fuse box because it's
housed by like a plastic shell. And of course, you got all the
wires underneath the fuse box to all the fuses and all the
relays. And the mouse just decided to chew that one, I
think it was a purple wire. And that was the only one it
chewed, right? And why who knows? That's the one it picked,
though. Now, fast forward about four years. This was 2023. 20.
Yeah, I think it was I think it was 23 that I looked at another
Ford F 150. And the funny thing was this was about a mile from
the first shop that I made that diagnosis on. It was in the
same town, different shop, different truck, but very
similar, like the same setup. And it had the exact same modules
that were offline. And I remember, like looking at it, because I
had made a case study out of the first one. And I remember
looking at I'm like, Oh, hey, I remember all these modules.
And this time around, I had been through some classes, got
some information. And I did notice that can bus voltage was
like, Oh, it is a little low. And the last time I had this,
it was, you know, that run start really not providing
power to the modules in question. So I go and I find and, okay,
I'm not getting a signal to that relay. And I pull up the bottom
of the fuse box, and a mouse had gotten into the bottom of
fuse box and chewed up that one single purple wire again. Now,
again, different truck, I'm assuming different mouse, different
shop, but exact same wire chewed underneath that fuse box.
So I guess I'm putting this out there to say, my my
episode idea was wrong. Sometimes they do pick the same
spot. How often that's going to happen. I don't know. But I
thought it was pretty funny that the exact same problem
happened to the it wasn't a host of wires. It was just one
wire that the mouse decided to choose. Does it have something
to do with the color? I have no idea. Anyways, that was
interesting. But obviously, we've seen mice get into, you
know, things like underneath fuse boxes and stuff and chew
up wires. Now, that's just an open circuit, right? And there's
nothing really that special about finding an open circuit,
right? It's identifying the circuit that you have a problem
with, identifying that, hey, it's open, and then it's
finding the open that, you know, generally makes for a
fairly boring podcast to just tell you about finding open
wires. Okay. But sometimes you can have other things
happen as they chew through multiple wires, you can have
a short between two wires, right? And like I mentioned,
they seem to pick the can bus wires for whatever reason. Maybe
it's that mice chew other wires, and they're less critical
circuits, and customers don't bring their vehicles in if
some minor thing like a, you know, a switch for a dome light
doesn't work or something like that. They're just like
whatever, but a can bus line that's chewed is going to
disable the vehicle. So we see those more that might be why
that seems to be the case more often, but somehow or
another, they always seem to find those can bus wires.
Maybe it's a twisted pair. I don't know. Anyways, I had a
Ford Escape recently, where that was the case. Not only did
they chew through the can lines, but they shorted them
together, right, because they're pulling those little
copper strands apart. And then they kind of just leave
it in a mess. And then those wires are touching
together. And when you have a shorted can bus,
obviously, if you own check between the high and the
low side, you're gonna get zero ohms, not OL, not
120, not 60. You have zero. It beeps if you have it on
the continuity setting. And that is a short together.
If you scope a shorted can bus, and many of you have
seen this, it's pretty much going to be a flat line.
Now, not perfectly. You'll if you look closely at the
line on your scope, you'll see just a little bit of
movement off of that bias voltage, right, you're
going to have two and a half. And if you zoom in on
it, you're like, Oh, that actually looks like what
could be a can packet. Now, it definitely doesn't
look right. There's not much movement off of that
bias, but you'll actually see a little bit of something
even they're shorted together because the modules
are still trying to communicate. But with the
high and the low shorted together, they cancel
each other out. So it's not usable. You can't
talk to anything. That was the case on this
escape. And, you know, nothing real special
about this. I just basically broke the network
down into sections and followed where that short
was it ended up being underneath the battery
tray. There's a harness that runs near the ABS
module and the can lines are right on the top of
that harness kind of exposed actually. And of
course, the mouse does a great spot for the
little mouse underneath the battery tray on this
harness got hungry chew the wires. That sort
of stuff happens as well. So that went now
I'm going to get to the interesting car
here. And again, you know, spoiler, it's
thrown damage. But I thought the way that the
symptoms presented themselves were pretty
interesting on this one, you know, learned a
little bit about the car. Will I ever see this
exact same problem on this car? Again,
probably not. Because it was a real specific
way that the mouse chewed through the wires
that allowed this to happen. So this was a
2019 Toyota Corolla. And the issue that
they were having was once you start up this
vehicle, and sometimes you had to drive it, but
it would happen pretty frequently, you'd shut
off the vehicle and the HVAC controls in the
center of the dash would stay on and you can
control the HVAC system indefinitely or until
the battery died. And you could take the key
out of the ignition. This was a blade style
key on this one. And obviously the car
shuts off, but that HVAC system keeps
running, drains the battery, but you could
operate it like the key was still on. And the
shop had been through this and they replaced a
few things, trying to get this resolved. But
they're really busy and they just didn't have
the time to, you know, dig into this fully. So
we take a look at it. And at first it wasn't
acting up. But they said, Well, sometimes
when you drive it, it happens and it's pretty
consistent. And they actually just hopped in
it, took it around the parking lot, and then
shut it off. And then it was acting up. So it
didn't take much to get this to happen. And so
then it's in the bay, key is off and verify
HVAC controls are on the little screen. It's
an automatic system. And there's just, you
know, a few things on the screen. You can
control everything. You can run the fan.
Actually, he had the fan unplugged so that
it wouldn't completely drain the battery.
Hey, have you ever been faced with the
challenge of sourcing, installing and
programming a used control module in a
vehicle? I know a lot of us have. It seems
to be happening more and more often today
with the volume of control modules on
vehicles, the cost of some new ones, or
even the availability of new control modules
in some cases used may be the only option.
So what do you do here? I strongly
recommend checking out SJ auto solutions
and Tommy Oliva. Tommy offers a cloning
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these things plug and play for the
vehicle that you're working on. In a lot
of cases, he is also able to source the
control modules if you're unable to
locate one for the vehicle that you're
working on. But once you get connected
with Tommy, he's going to offer fantastic
support from start to finish to make
sure that that control module is going
to work in your application. He's also
got tech support that he offers through
his website, along with some free
resources there as well on
information about used control module
programming. So make sure to check out
SJ auto solutions. I can't recommend that
enough. But anyways, we get into it
and they had already replaced the AC
amplifier because he did note that
when the AC amplifier, which is the
control module that's really in charge
of the HVAC system, you have the
display screen, but that is just for
controls. And it links on a Lin bus to
the AC amplifier, which is really in
charge of, you know, making decisions,
making things happen within the HVAC
system, including controlling the
compressor. And they had replaced the
AC amplifier with a used one because
when he unplugged the AC amplifier,
he said, then you can no longer
control the HVAC, the screen went off
and the drain from the battery went
away. Now that is somewhat normal,
right? If you had the car on and you
unplug the AC amplifier, the screen
would go off and it would stop
working. But it seemed to be that
there was something to do with that
module, but replacing it didn't do
anything. It had the exact same
situation even after a placement.
But it was a good direction for me
to start with is like, maybe I
should be looking at this, you
know, what changes does unplugging
the module really get rid of the
problem? Or is it just disabling
enough stuff because that module,
you know, operates a number of
things within the HVAC that seems
like the problem is gone. That's
what I have to determine on this
one. Scan it. No useful codes in
it. When the key is on, everything
seems to work the way it should.
But of course you have a bunch of
stuff working that you wouldn't
expect it to all the key is off.
So I go to the AC amplifier,
which is in the center console
area near the accelerator
pedal. And I start looking at
the circuits that are connected to
it. And it's pretty straightforward
as far as how this thing actually
gets powered up and operates.
It's got a constant battery feed,
obviously a ground, and then it
has a switch technician feed.
And that's it. And so that switch
technician feed needs to have
power in order for this module to
turn on. If that switch
technician feed is off, that module
should not be on. And OK, so
it's a blue wire. I checked the
blue wire. It has power when the
key is off. That's why this is
on. OK, well, that should be pretty
straightforward. Now, where does that
come from? And why does that
power on there? That's the next thing
that I have to figure out. So go to
the diagrams right there, shows
it as the heater ignition fuse
in the fuse box that's right
there underneath the dash. It's a
10 amp. And of course, that has
power as well, along with this
blue wire. So the
question now is, is power
being fed to this fuse
and then to the module and the
other things that this fuse
actually powers. There is four
different legs off of this
heater ignition fuse. It goes
to the control assembly on the
dash. It goes to the AC
amplifier. It goes to the
compressor relay and a couple
other relays under the hood as
well. So this powers up a few
different things. It's not just
the AC amplifier. And so that's
what I'm trying to figure out.
It's like, OK, I have power on
this fuse when the key is off.
Now this fuse gets fed from
an ignition relay, which is
located within the
fuse box that's under the dash,
right? So it's like a junction
block. And it does have like
a BCM that's
plugged into it. But the box
itself isn't a module, but it
has internal relays.
And one of those internal
relays is an ignition relay
that is controlled by the
ignition switch and then sends
power to this fuse when the
ignition is turned on.
So that's my question. OK, is
power getting fed to this fuse
and then going to these
components or is
something on that circuit,
one of those four legs
shorted to power and power is
backfeeding to everything else
keeping it on. It's one of
those two options. So that
is fairly easy to figure out
in a situation where you have
a fuse and it has power on
it when you would expect
there to not be power on it.
Pull that fuse in the state
where you would expect power to
not be on it key off and
then check both sides of the
fuse. Right. So what I mean
by that is you have two
terminals once you remove that
fuse and you can use your
test light and figure out.
OK, do I power on one or
both sides? You probably are
only going to have it on one
side. And then you could
turn the key on because you
might say, well, I don't
know which side this goes
to. But you could figure it
out with the test light.
Right. I could go over to my
AC amplifier and that
leg that comes out of the
fuse is going to go to pin
one. It's a blue wire.
If I remove the fuse, do I
still have power on that blue
wire? OK, if I do, I
know for sure it's not
coming from the ignition
switch. And then I can go
up to the fuse. I can test
both sides. One should have
power. One won't.
That's probably the ignition
feed side. I could turn the
key on and then I should have
power on both sides of the
fuse, right? So you can use a
little bit of logic there to
figure out, OK, that side of
the fuse goes to the
components. That side of the
fuse comes from my
ignition relay, which again
is internal to this fuse
box. So I figure that out
and it is on the component
side. OK, so key off, got
power on the fuse, remove
it and everything stays
on at that point. Even if I
pull that fuse that does
not disable DHVAC system.
So I mean, right there, you
know, even without using a
test light that like, OK,
power is being
shorted to this circuit
somewhere somehow. But I got
power on the component side
of that fuse. I have power at
my AC amplifier. And I'm using
that kind as a test just
because it's easy to access.
And I'm just back probed
into that wire right at the
AC amplifier. Now, like
he said, if you unplug the
AC amplifier, it seems like
everything turns off. And I
verified that I unplug the
AC amplifier and I no longer
have power on that blue wire.
OK, so fuse could be out, fuse
could be in doesn't matter at
this point. I put everything
back in. But I have power
on that blue wire as long as
the modules plugged in. I
unplug the module, everything
shuts off and I do not
have power on that blue
wire anymore. So I don't
really need to look at the
other components and I
didn't. I'm focused in on
that AC amplifier. Now
that again, they already
replaced it with a used one.
First one did the same
thing. Is it possible? This
is a common issue with these.
I'm not sure. Is there
something else that could
be shorted that's feeding
power through the module onto
this circuit? That's a
question that you have to
ask yourself. I mean, it's
a lot of cases when you
unplug the control module and
it fixes your issue.
Sometimes it's a control
module, right? Maybe
something taken down a
can bus or in this case
where we're, you know, we
have power shorted to a
circuit, you unplug the
module, it's no longer
short of the circuit.
Maybe it's the fault of a
module, but maybe
there's a short somewhere
that's feeding through the
module onto this circuit.
And it's something you have
to consider. How do we, how
do we figure out if that's
the case? Now what I
did here was I looked
at the circuitry on
the diagram. And of
course, I should only have
two power feeds into this
module, one constant, one
switched. But that's it.
I should not have any
other 12 volts go into
this module at any
point. But when I have the
thing unplugged, if I go
across all of the pins and
just touch them with a
grounded test light, only
one of them should light up
unless I have the key on
then two of them should
light up. And like I
mentioned, when the
module's unplugged, I no
longer have power on that
blue wire. So the
power, the B plus
is actually coming from
the module onto that
circuit, but from where.
Okay, now I do have it on
my white wire, which is
my constant. I would expect
that. Okay, that's normal.
That's not a problem. But
do I have it on another
circuit? And I do. And
actually, it's real close.
It is one pin over from
the blue wire. So the blue
ignition feed, where I
have power, I don't want
it. That's pin one. And
pin two is a light green
wire. Where's that go?
That goes right to the
solenoid on the
compressor. Okay. So this
is the power feed. And
it's a solenoid plus.
But this is the power
feed to the compressor
solenoid that the AC
amplifier is going to use to
operate this thing. Now,
there should not be power on
this wire unless the AC
amplifier is sending it
there. But for some reason
there is. And this is module
unplugged, right? So pin two
light green goes straight
to the AC compressor. I've
got power there. Then you
plug it in. I still have
power there. And then I
also have it on the blue
wire. So my guess is here
that this power that is on
this wire should not be
there based on the
diagram. A solenoid on
compressor shouldn't provide
that. But it is and it's
backfeeding through the
module onto the ignition
circuit, which is keeping
the HVAC system awake.
Okay, so now I figure out,
okay, why do I power on
there? And I go immediately
to the compressor once I
see this. And turns out
it's already unplugged. And
I asked him, he's like,
do you unplug the
compressor? He said, yeah,
it was one of the things I
was looking at to see if
it had anything to do with
it. And I just left it
unplugged. Okay, so
compressors unplugged and I
got power there. So it's
definitely not the
compressor itself. And I go
to the light green wire on
the compressor with my test
light and I don't have
power there. So I double
check the diagram I
actually pulled up the OE
diagram. I had a Toyota
sub. So I used Toyota
service information to
make sure that like the
diagram wasn't wrong. And
it's the same color
wire. But I look, okay,
this is this is the wire pin
to does go to the
compressor on this circuit.
But I have power at the
module, but I don't have
power at the compressor.
Well, there's two other
connectors in this circuit
between the AC amplifier
and the compressor. So I
got to find these
connectors, and then I
can break up the circuit
and figure out, well,
number one, why do I
power one spot, not the
other? And then is
there an open and a
short? That's what it
would seem to be unless I'm
still misunderstanding the
diagram. But let's go to
these connectors, break it
down, see what we can
find. So there's a six,
which is located under the
dash on the passenger
side, just before the
harness leaves the cabin
to go under the hood. And
there is BA two, which is
actually located in the
underhood fuse block. And
these are both pretty
easy to access the one
under the dash, you just
have to reach underneath
there. Finding them was a
little bit of work, but
once I found them, they're
easy enough to access. So
a six under the dash, I
unplug it, and I have
power on the side that
goes under the hood, right?
So this is a connector
between the AC amplifier
and the compressor under
the dash, I unplug it. And
if you look at the
diagram, you can see the
male female side on the
diagram. So you know
which direction you're
going, right? If I touch
it with a test light, it
lights up on the female
side, I look at the
diagram, female side goes
towards the fuse box and
the compressor. And I power
there. Okay, so I need to
go under the hood. So I
look under the hood, there
was evidence of rodents
being under there. They
had chewed away some of
the padding on the
firewall. They had a
little nest underneath
the intake. So right
there, and I think the
tech had even mentioned, he
noticed that there was
some evidence of rodents
under the hood. But I
follow the harness, it
leaves the firewall, goes
across the firewall, goes
under the air box, and then
over to the fuse box. And I
look it over and I don't
see any evidence of the
rodents actually damaging
the harness there. Now, it
could be underneath
something, maybe I don't
see it, but it's not
visible in the part of
the harness that I can
see. So then I go over
to BA2 connector, which
is in the under hood
fuse box. I disconnect
that, I don't have
power on either side. Okay.
So somewhere between that
connector under the dash
and the fuse box, I not
only have an open, but then
I have a short to power on
the side that goes towards
the cab of the vehicle. And
this is where we were
talking about it. And I was
like, Hey, I think we
should pull this fuse
box up and look underneath
it because it's very
strange that I have a
short to power and an
open here. So he
yanked up the fuse box
which took a little bit
of work to pull some
things apart to get
underneath there. And as
soon as he did, he found
at the bottom that light
green wire had been chewed
along with another wire
which had constant power
on it. And it was touching
that one. So basically it
opened it up in the
direction of the compressor,
but it shorted it to power
in the direction of the
AC amplifier. And that
wire having constant
power, the power wire
for the compressor
solenoid backfed through
the AC amplifier onto
the ignition circuit, which
kept that module and the
screen and everything with
the HVAC activated, even
when the key was in the
off position. So again,
rodent damage. Will I ever
see that problem again?
Probably not. I mean, I
guess it's good to know
that that sort of thing
can happen. And that's
what I'm taking away
from it is when you
have something like
this, right, power
shorted on a wire, you
unplug a module, it gets
rid of it. It's not
always the module, right?
It can be another circuit
connected to that module
that is not normally
supposed to have power,
but it does. And that's
going to backfeed through
other circuits. So just
be aware of that. If you
get to a part of like, hey,
this module is bad. I think
it's the cause. Double
check, use some logic.
Look at the wiring
diagram, like, okay, which
wire should I have power
on? Do I have power on
those? Do I have power
on any other ones? If I
do, and I don't expect
power to be there, why
is there power there? And
could that be causing
my problem? Same thing
could be true of a
ground, right? Where you
could have five volt
reference shorted out
that's taking down a
control module, preventing
it from talking. And we've
talked about it before
where, you know, you have
a whole network taken
down because of a module
that has a bad ground,
right? We remove that
module from the network
and now I can talk to
everybody else. But you
plug that module in and
you can't talk to
anything. Or is it the
module? Okay, is it
potentially a, you know,
a bad ground to that
module that's causing
that to happen? It does
happen, right? So I guess
it's just a good reminder.
But those mice, those
rodents, they definitely
keep you on your toes
because you're going to
see these unique one-off
problems that you can't
really use pattern
failures to find. You just
have to use your, you
know, basic electrical
diagnostic skills in
order to get to the
solution. So I thought
that was pretty
interesting. Wanted to
share it. That's all
I got for this week.
Thank you so much for
listening. Always
appreciate it. But with
that out of the way,
let's get out there,
start fixing the world
one car at a time.
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