A transaxle is a drivetrain setup that combines the gearbox and the axle in one unit. It’s often used on cars with engines mounted more toward the middle or rear to help the car handle better.
“Driven Not Hidden” is the idea that you should actually use your Porsche, not just keep it tucked away. It goes along with taking care of it so it stays presentable and protected.
Sodium chloride is the chemical compound in common de-icing salt. When it’s dissolved in meltwater, it forms an electrically conductive solution that helps corrosion reactions proceed, leading to faster rust.
Surfactants are special cleaning chemicals that help water “wet” dirt and salt so they can be lifted off the car. They make the wash more effective than plain water alone.
Garage Therapy Zero DMS is a car shampoo made to deal with hard-water and salt residue. The idea is that it helps loosen and remove the stuff that leads to rust, and it includes rust-protecting ingredients.
Here, shelf life means how long the protective coating keeps working. After that time, it wears off and you have to put it back on.
Brand
W40
W40 is being used here as a spray-on protection product to help prevent rust. People apply it to areas that get hit by road salt, especially underneath the car.
Brand
Built Humber
The host is talking about another rust-protection spray brand/version. The exact name is a bit unclear in the transcript, but it’s in the same category as other underbody anti-corrosion products.
Denitrol is a rust-protection product you spray onto car parts. It forms a protective coating to help stop corrosion, especially in areas that are hard to reach.
ACF50 is a spray-on product that helps prevent rust on car parts. It leaves a protective film that’s thinner and easier to work with than some thick waxes.
XCP is a brand name for corrosion-protection and protective coating products. Here it’s discussed alongside other “wax oil” and anti-corrosion formulas that can be sprayed and later removed if you need to reapply or clean.
A pump sprayer is a simple sprayer you pressurize by pumping. It helps you apply rust-protection or cleaners evenly without needing a pressure washer setup.
Lana Guard is a wax-type rust protection product. If you put it on too thick, it can get tacky and attract dirt, so you may need to clean it off later before adding a fresh layer.
Brand
Hydrate 80
Hydrate 80 is another rust-protection product. It’s used to coat and protect car parts, and the goal is to make it easier to clean off later if you need to reapply.
A foam lance is a tool that makes lots of car-wash foam using your pressure washer. The foam helps spread the cleaner and reach into awkward spots more easily than a simple spray.
Inner arches are the parts of the wheel area inside the car’s body. They’re often where dirt and water get trapped, so rust prevention needs to reach there.
Suspension components are the parts that hold the wheels to the car and help the ride feel smooth. They’re exposed to water and salt, so they can rust if you don’t protect them.
A ceramic coating is a protective layer put on your car’s paint. It makes the surface harder to damage and easier to clean, so you usually don’t have to wash it as often—unless the coating starts failing.
Chemical abrasion is when chemicals in dirt, road grime, or cleaners slowly wear down the protection on your paint. A ceramic coating is meant to resist that kind of wear.
Chemical breakdown means the protective layer slowly gets worn out by chemicals it’s exposed to. Once it starts breaking down, you can’t rely on it to protect the paint anymore.
“Coating” means the protective layer on top of your car’s paint. When dirt and grime sit on it for a while, they can bond more strongly, so cleaning later takes more effort.
“Contamination” is the stuff that gets stuck to your car’s paint—like dirt and residue—that doesn’t just wipe off easily. If you leave it too long, it can bond to the paint and become harder to clean.
Wax is a protective layer you put on your car’s paint. It helps water bead and makes the paint look good, but it doesn’t last long—often only a few weeks—before it wears off.
To “etch” means the dirt or residue starts to damage the paint instead of just sitting on it. When that happens, it’s harder to clean off and you may need stronger steps like polishing.
“Clays” are a detailing tool (like a clay bar) that you rub on the paint to pull off stubborn grime that doesn’t wash away. It helps make the paint feel smooth again before you polish it.
Polishing is a process that smooths and improves the paint finish. It uses an abrasive product to remove small marks and help the paint look better after contaminants are removed.
“Encapsulate” means the cleaner wraps up the dirt so it can be rinsed off instead of sticking back onto the paint. That’s why the surface stays cleaner after washing.
A pressure washer is a machine that sprays water very strongly to clean things. The point here is that some small hot-water setups can’t provide hot water fast enough for that kind of heavy-duty cleaning.
An induction heater is a device that heats water using electricity and magnetism. In this context, it’s suggested when a smaller hot-water setup can’t heat water fast enough.
These are small hot-water units that sit under a sink. They’re meant to quickly provide hot water for everyday cleaning, like filling a basin, rather than powering high-flow tools.
Corrosion protection means helping prevent rust. The idea is that if the car stays wet for less time (like keeping it inside while it’s raining), it’s less likely to start rusting.
A quick detailer is a spray you put on the car to make it look cleaner and shinier fast. It’s meant for light dirt or water marks, not a full deep cleaning.
“Blooming” is when the paint looks a little hazy or misty after you apply a product. It usually happens because the surface is cold and moisture is involved, so the product dries unevenly.
Condensation is moisture forming on a cold surface as tiny water droplets. If you apply products when condensation is present, they can dry slowly and look hazy.
A protectant is something you put on the car’s paint to help shield it from dirt and water. Here they’re talking about how it behaves when the car is cold and damp.
A leaf blower is a handheld air tool used in detailing to remove water from the car’s crevices and panel gaps. The idea is to reduce trapped moisture after washing, especially in winter, while minimizing the chance of water spots.
Contact angle is a way to describe how water sits on the paint. If the contact angle is high, water beads up and doesn’t cling, so it’s easier to remove.
A drying towel is what you use to wipe water off the car. If the towel gets too wet, you may have to press harder, which increases the chance of scratching the paint—so using fresh towels helps.
An open hose drying method means using a hose without a spray-trigger attachment to sheet water off the paint. The host contrasts this with trigger-spray usage, implying it can help water run off more evenly and reduce the need for towel contact.
The “soft film” refers to the flexible nature of PPF compared with rigid paint. That flexibility affects how the film behaves during cleaning, product application, and coating—so some products may need to be compatible with a flexible surface rather than bare, hard paint.
Deionized water is water that’s been cleaned so it doesn’t have minerals in it. Using it helps prevent ugly water spots when you rinse or wash your car.
Clear coat is the transparent top layer on modern car paint that provides gloss and UV protection. Detailing issues like water spotting or contamination can be easier or harder to correct depending on whether the problem is on clear coat versus on a film like PPF.
A PPF warranty is the guarantee that the protective film will last and perform as promised. The host is saying it can be hard to actually get coverage when something goes wrong.
Kärcher K4 is a pressure washer. People mention the exact model because different pressure washers clean differently and can be gentler or harsher depending on how they’re used.
The GT3 is a Porsche 911 variant that’s built for serious driving and track use. Here, the point is that the buyer chose it partly because the car already had protective film on the paint, which can help keep a performance car looking good.
OEM paint is the paint that comes on the car from the factory. The idea here is that factory paint is usually tougher, so it’s less likely to get damaged when you remove the protective film.
Aftermarket paint is paint that was added later, not the original factory paint. If PPF was installed over that repaint, taking the film off can be riskier because the repaint may not be bonded as strongly as factory paint.
“Bare metal re-sprayed” means the old paint was stripped off completely before repainting. That usually makes the new paint stick better, which reduces the chance of problems when you remove things like protective film.
“Orange peel” (described here as “orange peely”) refers to a slightly bumpy, textured surface appearance in paint or film finish. The hosts connect it to PPF characteristics and specifically mention how Expel’s film can show more of this effect than other brands.
Suntech is a brand that makes clear paint protection film. The host says Suntech’s film tends to look smoother (less “orange peel”) compared with some other brands.
A good PPF job should look clean, with the film edges not standing out. If you can clearly see the edges, it may mean the film wasn’t applied as neatly.
Wrapping PPF around panel edges means the film is tucked over the shape of the car, not just laid flat. That usually makes the job look better and helps the film stay put at the tricky corners.
The “glue” is the sticky adhesive that holds the clear film onto the paint. If it doesn’t age well, it can cause problems like the film lifting or even taking paint with it.
Solvents are chemicals that are part of the sticky materials used to attach PPF. Changes in laws can limit which chemicals are allowed, which can affect how well the film sticks and ages.
“Shrunk” means the film tightens up over time. If it shrinks too much, it can start pulling away at the edges and look worse, so it may need replacing.
Term
DC
“DC” here seems to be a shorthand for part of the PPF setup that can harden over time. The point is that if the materials harden or degrade, the film can start to fail and should be replaced.
Hazing is when paint looks cloudy or dull instead of crisp and glossy. It can happen after washing or applying products if residue is left behind or if the surface gets tiny scratches.
Product build up is when leftover wax or cleaner residue stays on the paint. If there’s too much or it’s not wiped off well, the car can look hazy instead of shiny.
Silicone build up is when certain spray products leave a slippery residue behind. Over time it can make the paint look uneven or cloudy and be harder to clean off properly.
It sounds like a group detailing event where people learn how to clean and care for their cars. The goal is to get hands-on tips so you can maintain the car better at home.
Car
black Porsche
They’re talking about a black Porsche that someone brought in for detailing. The point is that how you clean it—especially what you wipe with—can affect how the paint looks.
They’re talking about using a matched set of car-care products. The question is whether it’s best to use one brand’s whole lineup so the steps work well together, or if mixing brands is okay.
G-Technic is a car detailing brand. They make products that are meant to be used in a specific order, so you get better results and don’t accidentally ruin what you already applied.
Here, “voodoo” means people’s weird or unproven detailing advice. The host prefers a straightforward system where the products are tested to work together.
The Porsche Boxster is a small two-seat sports car made by Porsche. It’s designed for fun driving, with the engine placed near the middle of the car and the option to drive with the top down. People talk about it a lot because it’s one of Porsche’s most recognizable models for open-top performance.
A fabric roof is the soft, cloth top on a convertible. It can get dirty and wear out faster if you don’t clean and protect it, especially during winter.
A citrus cleaner is a type of cleaner made with citrus ingredients. It’s meant to loosen dirt so you can wash it out without harming the roof material.
Diluting means mixing the concentrate with water to make it weaker. Using the right strength helps it clean properly without being too harsh on the roof.
Quick-curing lacquer is a type of paint that dries faster. But even after it feels dry, it can still be releasing fumes for some time, so you usually wait before sealing it with a coating.
Powder coating is a way to coat metal parts using a dry powder that gets baked on in an oven. Since it’s cured by heat, you generally need to wait until everything is fully finished before adding another coating.
A rinseless car wash is a cleaning method that uses special liquid and towels instead of a full rinse with lots of water. It’s usually for lighter dirt, because you don’t have the same flushing action as a normal wash.
Rinseless washing is a way to clean your car without using a full rinse of water. It works best when the car isn’t too dirty—think light dust or a thin film—so you can wipe it off safely.
Micro suede is a soft, fabric-like material you might find on car interiors. The point is to use a cleaner that won’t ruin the texture or leave marks on that fabric.
A microfiber cloth is a soft cleaning cloth made of tiny fibers. It’s popular for car cleaning because it can pick up dirt and wipe things off without being as abrasive as many other cloths.
Steam cleaning uses hot vapor to loosen dirt. It can work well, but you shouldn’t hold it too close to delicate parts or materials.
Term
race techs
“Race techs” sounds like a specific kind of race-style trim or material in the car. The advice here is to use steam carefully and not get it too close.
Sonax is a car-care brand that makes detailing brushes and products. The host is basically saying that even with good brands, you still need to match the brush to the material you’re cleaning.
“Hand cream” is an example of a greasy substance that can get onto a car’s interior. The host is saying it should be easier to remove if you use the right cleaning approach.
Leather is a common car interior material. Here, the host is saying it tends to stay cleaner and is easier to maintain than suede-like surfaces that get scuffed.
Term
Race 6
“Race 6” sounds like a specific interior material used for track-focused cars. The host is saying it works well for track driving, but it can still wear quickly where your hands grip it.
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I hope all is well with you. It's Lee Sibley here. Just a very quick note. At Andy Brooks and
myself, we are out on the road currently, fully subscribing to the Driven Not Hidden Mantra
that we so fastidiously promote. What it means is, while we're racking up the miles this week,
we are presenting you for this week's podcast episode with some highlights of our recent
online virtual seminar with our great friends at Garage Therapy. These seminars take place
with experts from around the industry and members of the Driven Not Hidden Collective to help
further the Porsche lifestyle and experience of owners away from the car. So we hope you enjoy
an array of questions on all things car care and car detailing this week. Andy Brooks and
myself will be back next week with some more hot topics from around the world of Porsche.
See you then.
Very pleased to say that we've got Roger from Garage Therapy with us to answer our questions.
There have been a few questions from people that can't attend tonight. So I think what
I'll do is I'll start with one of those just to get us warmed up. And that question is from
Paolo who asked, my question is, what's the best way to ensure road salt is eliminated
during those winter months? I think we've kind of asked this question, answered this
question before, but it's worth covering again.
Yeah, it is. The main issue with the salt isn't the salt itself, but actually the actual
mixture of salt and water because it makes sodium chloride, which is actually what causes
the damage. It's basically from the water allowing current into it to then and now rust
from the corrosion of the electrolytes of oxidation. So essentially what you have to be
aware of is that it's actually worse action of washing the car down with water to get rid
of the salt, thinking that would solve the problem when actually you could make matters
worse by putting water on it. So the best condition, the best version of all of this is basically
to take the car and clean it properly with surfactants and cleaning agents that allow
the salt to be diluted or broken down and dissolved and put onto the floor. Something
that I like to use a lot of the time is our Garage Therapy Zero DMS. It's our demoralisation
shampoo because it's built for the one purpose of reducing hard water processes, but also
at the same time it has the ability to break down the minerals in the salt. So it's a good
way to use that as a shampoo in a regular way basis. It's also got rust inhibitors inside
it as well. So that actually helps that even further. So if there is any places or creak
edges or small spaces that it gets into that salt water, it's able to then be broken down
and dissolved in a manner that the body won't be basically ruined from it. So yeah, the
long and short of it is to get rid of it. That's the best option for some as regards to protection
from it. Once the car's clean and it's no longer got any salt on it because that's the first
thing you have to stop first. There are products out there that you can use that help protect
particularly the unprotected or anti corrosion coated pieces of metal, especially under the
car's suspension components that can be used to spray a material onto it and then that blocks
it for a certain period of time. After that period of time it doesn't work and you have
to reapply it because it's only got a certain shelf life on the car in use. Some of those
are, I mean some people use W40, then there's Lana Guard, there's obviously the other one
that was called, I think you used the one that I'm thinking about.
Built Humber.
There's a built Humber version of it. There's also, I'll just try to remember the...
Denitrol.
Denitrol.
Denitrol, yes, that's another one. Wax oil. Wax oil. XCP. And also there is ACF50. ACF50.
So there are all these formulas that you can plug. They can be sprayed by a pump spray.
They can be aerosol sprayed. They can be also sprayed from a big container. Lana Guard's
like a wax base. They come with side effects, unfortunately. The Lana Guard can be quite
sticky. If it's put on too thickly, it is a wax. It essentially dries onto the component
and then it becomes a sticky wax. So it can sometimes pick up dirt and make the components
dirtier. But essentially, they are clean underneath it. You just need to break down that wax later
on and then reapply.
Things like ACF50. There's the XCP Rose Blocker there. It's like a clear Humber based wax.
It's not like a thick wax that gets laid onto it. It's a very thin, thin layer and it's
thinner. It doesn't look like it's been covered in wax and it's a lot easier to use and apply.
Unfortunately, it is a bit more expensive than say Lana Guard is used. I think built Humber
make one as well, which is like a wax. I think it's called Hydrate. I think it's Hydrate 80
or something like that. That's used as well to protect the components. And then from there,
it makes it a lot easier to get rid of that. Salt water is applied to it once it's on there.
So that's ideally the best way.
As far as applying the cleaning side of things, is it best to do like a foam type?
That's totally down to the user. We know that obviously not everyone's going to have use of a
foam lance. Not everyone's going to have a use of pump sprayers and stuff like that.
You can do a mix in a pump sprayer. You can do a mix in a foam pump. You can do it in a foam lance.
If you've got any of those aspects that will give you the extra ability to get into those type
of spaces, the inner arches, the suspension components and stuff like that. But if you want to go old school
and you want to jack the car up, take the wheel off and do it with your hands with some brushes,
even better, that's probably going to be even more exact than say doing it with a
snow foam or just spraying it behind it because there's only so much you're going to get behind
there before the wheel or the components are getting in that kind of thing.
So yeah, any way to get in there, you just got to remember that you've also got to wash it out.
Wherever you've got it into, you have to wash it out.
Okay, anybody got any questions on that side of things while we're there?
Yeah, it's like, I'm always worried that you kind of touch a car too much in the winter
because you're going to have to wash it so regularly. Is it a good idea not to do that
but just to have like a monthly clean and resist the urge not to kind of touch it
every couple of days or every week? Or do you recommend doing it more regularly?
It's down to protection. I've done this with my own cars.
If you have a well protected vehicle, you cannot touch it for quite some time.
Knowing full well that the protection underneath it, even though dirt and grime in the traffic
film has got on top of it, it's not going to penetrate past that protection layer.
It's a bit like, actually a good point is the person that raised this question was Paul.
His car is now completely ceramic coated.
Now that is a very, very, very good barrier against chemical abrasion and chemical breakdown.
And so something things like that are really not going to touch the sides of that coating
for a very long period of time, as long as he just maintains it in a fairly regular process.
So if you've got a ceramic coated car, there are words, as you exactly said, you don't need to touch the car.
Because the more you touch it, the more you're going to create marring, more you're going to create abrasion to the paint
and you're going to abrade the protection you've put on the car.
So in that terms, yeah, you could leave it three months.
Where it kind of breaks down is the point is where if your protection breaks down in that period of you leaving it,
then it can start to create more problems than those if you were to manage it by cleaning it regularly.
And the way you'll know that is if you've got a very hard line ceramic based coating on your car,
you're not going to have to worry too much if your car's not cleaned for a month, two months, three months.
It's not going to be easy to get all of that contamination off the coating at the end,
but you've got less of a worry than you have, say, with someone that's just used a wax.
Use a wax. That wax is probably only going to last within two to three weeks, four weeks, depending on what kind of wax.
Then it's going to degrade and it's going to go and then anything that goes on top of that car paint is now going to stick.
It's going to actually try and etch into your coating.
It's going to become harder and harder to get out and you have to be more aggressive with the cleaning process
so you're going to have to start completing clays, polishing and those sort of methods to get that corrosion
and that contamination off the paintwork.
So I know that doesn't give you quite the answer you want.
There isn't a clear cut thing.
It's all down to how your car's prepped, how good your car's kept.
We'll define how long you can leave it before you clean it.
As everyone understands, it's very hard to clean a car in the cold and wet, especially it gets down to two to three degrees.
It doesn't matter really if you've got hot water or cold water, it's still going to be hard.
It's still hard on the ends.
Excellent. There was one question that was related to that actually.
That was from Sakeed.
Quick one, does the water stroke ambient temperature affect the performance of your cleaning products?
Will washing with nice warm water in winter to keep my fingers from falling off in brackets affect the products?
Yes.
So in many aspects, warm water is always going to help any sort of chemical, especially surfactant based
because what it does is it helps break down those molecules, connections between the grease and the dirt and the oils and everything else.
So when they get heated, they start to lose their ability to hold on together and hold on to a surface.
And then obviously surfactants are then able to get into there and lift that dirt and pull it away and encapsulate it.
So yes, it does.
Yes, it will help you when you're cleaning.
Where it kind of falls apart a little bit for me when I talk about it is that's okay when you've got the wheels.
You've got a big bucket of water, which is warm.
You've got a warm water, which is where you put it in the snow form or sprayer, but you're touching a cold will.
So the first few passes are just all that heat is going to get lost.
Unless it's very hot, it's going to get lost very quickly on cold metal.
Not so much on wheels, but on a body work and a cold day, unless you've got a proper diesel based pressure washer that heats the water for it as it goes through and pressure washes it.
The warmth is not going to really improve your cleaning ability unless the pressure wash is pumping out hot water as well.
Regarding something else that's connected to that is mixing the surfactants in a bucket of warm water is much better than doing it in cold water.
Because they will just mix together, they make better foam, cleaning agents, the surfactants are a lot more active in that water than with cold water.
That's just generally how it works.
So it's always good to keep your fingers warm then even summer and winter.
Yeah, yeah, actually summer is if you can do hot water, it does actually help quite a lot.
I would say the most impact you'll see is if you do things in like a foam sprayer or a pump sprayer.
Using warm water in those, you'll actually see a real big, vast improvement, especially things like wheel shampoo.
It comes out really thick, really foamy because the water is able to mix the surfactants together really well.
Okay, great stuff. I've actually got hot water to my outside tap.
I've got like a little mixer valve inside where I can turn it hot and cold and change the temperature to what I want and then just got a single tap on the outside.
I've done that in the last couple of properties that I've done.
What I first started doing that for was actually for mountain bike cleaning.
I'd always get back from a dirty mountain bike right in the depths of the evening, really cold.
And the only way I could find to get that clean was to use warm water.
But I find that that's amazing.
If you've got a chance to actually get an outside tap with a hot water supply as well as cold, then do it.
I'd recommend that. It's really good.
It is worthwhile, I think.
Otherwise, if you can't get a boiler, like myself, I've got a garage which is detached from the house and right down the bottom.
You can't, there's the likelihood of getting pumped water from a boiler all the way down to there.
You can get instant heaters.
There are some quite good ones out there.
You can get them from screw fixes and places like that.
And they're very good at providing hot water for buckets or just for your kind of hand-held pump sprayers.
They're not very good to creating hot water for pressure washers because the feed's too quick.
You'd need a proper boiler or an induction heater.
But if you want something that's just going to fill up a basin or you can get a lot of them,
they're under there, they're called under sink version heaters,
and they heat up plenty of hot water for you right up to like 60, 70 degrees.
So that's another other option.
Great, cool.
Anybody else got any winter-based questions that you want to ask right now?
I have.
Barry, please do.
I was just thinking, one of my cars, I probably use it every other day and therefore it gets wet a lot.
Am I better off putting it in the garage or leaving it outside where anybody gets used every other day?
The issue is, once the car's wet, it's wet.
So if you were to drive back in the rain and then you were to put it into a garage, it still remains wet until it dries.
It does dry a little bit quicker in a dry environment, but it's still wet for that period of time.
If the car's kept inside while it's raining, that's different.
That's going to provide a bit more corrosion protection than anything else.
So, yeah, I don't think there's a big advantage from being inside and outside if you're using it on a quite regular basis.
It's not going to change, it's not going to knock 10 years off the car.
As long as you maintain the car, you won't have any issues parking the car outside versus inside.
It's all down to protection.
I think that's the general consensus about everything because it's the level of protection you keep on it
or provide you with the reassurance of leaving it outside or inside.
I have been shocked the times it has been really wet.
I've driven back a long, long distance in the rain.
Late at night, put the car in the garage and the following day, it's still very, very wet.
So, that's what made me think about it. Thank you.
Excellent. Anybody else?
Yeah, just a question, Roger, on sort of drying cars into sort of colder winter days, using a quick detailer.
What's your thoughts around that? Do you call it blooming when it goes sort of a bit misty on the paint surface?
Yeah, that's basically the effect of condensation.
Blooming of condensation is the cold, hot semi-hot panel and you've applied a component on it.
And obviously, when cold panels are there and you've got something like a protectant inside it,
what that tends to do is it doesn't have to heat the humidity to allow it to do its job in the time it would usually do in summer.
It takes just a little bit longer to flash off and that's when you get these like blooming effects kind of thing.
Regarding drying in the winter, it all depends again down to your protection.
People like Paolo, who's just had his car coated, he can run around with a leaf blower and the car will be dry in five minutes
and just blow the water straight off of it because the contact angle, the water droplets is so high
that basically it's got no ability to stick and just blow it straight off.
You can actually dry it with water. In some instances, you get hose on a low flow
and you can just basically push all the water off and just leave it dry.
Ideally, a leaf blower is the best option anyway because you can blow water out of the crevices, which you can throw out of them anyway.
Regarding any other person that doesn't have ceramic coating, they're going to have to go usually the old fashioned way
with a drying towel and try and use a drying aid like a quick detailer,
which gives you that extra risk to reduce marring and reduce the paint abrasion from the towel.
Even as much as water is water, it still holds minerals and quality so it does have an effect of marring to the paintwork.
It's not something you would see in the first go, but it will eventually show itself.
So yeah, using lubrication through a QD is the best way forward with a very good drying towel.
And don't be afraid to use 23 drying towels if you feel like you need to.
I always find it's incredible. Some people use one towel all over the car,
but by the time they get halfway down the car, the drying towel is soaking, like thicker soak,
and then they find themselves trying to push on the panel harder to get the water to move on.
In my eyes, it's easy just to go get another dry one, start again,
and then you don't have to push so hard from getting the drying towel to pick up that moisture.
Can I just go back to the dry in the car with water?
I do that. There's been a bit of a chat today about the race glaze or the filter type products.
I've got one which is just there.
It looks like a scuba tank.
So I've just fashioned a handle on it and I've bung the hose on there.
Just go around the car with an open hose.
So no attachment on the end of the hose.
Yeah, that's basically what you do.
If you haven't got one of those, you can still use an open hose to dry the car.
You'll find that you've got that.
It sort of sheets off when you use an open hose like that rather than using a trigger spray.
But yeah, I don't know what your thoughts are on the mineral.
What would you call those things, water filters, I guess?
Yeah, so they're basically opmosis or immunization resins.
And they basically take out as much as it can as the PPM than particles per mil out of the water.
Five years ago, it was very hard to find.
There was only spotless water, which was a company that provided you with the water and you could keep it and then you could use it.
That was quite expensive, but then into this kind of consumer space came companies which could provide you with these big cylinders
which you can put resin into and you pump the water through it and as it comes through the other side, it's been cleansed for you.
At the beginning, there was only a couple of places that did it like race glaze.
But now there's a lot of companies out there that are actually produced.
One of them that's just come into the scene recently is Big Boy, spelled B-I-G-B-O-I.
They create their own resin canisters.
So they've got two systems and then there's a three system and there's a five system.
And they come with even a digital meter on the top of them which tells you how many PPI your input and output is
as it comes in and out of the system.
Just to provide for everyone to understand this, you don't use that to flush all your water through your pressure washer
because most of the time you'll find the pressure washer input requirement is higher than what the resin cartridges can output.
So it's too quiet.
So your machine will either cut out or it won't work properly, it will just sputter.
This is for use as the final rinse.
So once your car's all cleaned off, you don't go with the pressure washer and rinse it off.
You can use the pressure washer but you can't turn the pressure washer on.
You just turn the pressure washer off and then you just use the trigger and it basically pumps the clean PPM water straight through the system.
And you just basically douse the whole car down until you rinse the whole car off.
And the idea is if the PPM is down to zero, you can let the car dry.
Like that.
Yeah, just dries without a mark.
That only works with just like yourself and these when you've got a garage.
Because you have to bring it inside the garage to let it really dry like that because if you leave it outside the garage
and you were to leave it outside on the summer's day.
Although the sun will evaporate the water.
Unfortunately, as the sun tries to evaporate that water, it takes a fair amount of time.
Pollan, cement, anything that's in the air that's flowing down the street will attach yourself to that water because it just naturally does its water.
And then as that water drop evaporates, it leaves what it's called in the wind on your paintwork.
So it kind of destroys the whole point of doing the possible.
Exactly.
So the idea is if you rinse it down, you can put it inside, let it dry and not worry about it.
Or you can rinse it down and then you just wipe it down with a drying towel and not need to use too much of a dry made
because you know that the water was cleaned and there's no minerals in it that you're pushing over the surface of the paintwork.
I found it, I think it was the biggest game changer for me.
It just makes drying the car really easy and it takes that fear away that you've left any water in any little crevices that might drip down from the wing mirror
or get in the wheels and all that sort of thing and leave their little mineral marks.
It takes that away totally because if there's anything that's left, it just evaporates, as Roger said.
I just found it a real game changer and it's been very inexpensive.
I think I bought my cylinder for about $18.90.
I've had it a good couple of years and I still haven't had to replace the crystals in it yet.
When I do come to place the crystals, I think that'd be about $35.
So it's minimal expense and so easy to use.
I'd really recommend it if anybody's sort of on the fence, don't be.
It is worthwhile as long as you've got some space to keep it and use it appropriately.
It's really good.
Could I ask a question on that?
Sure.
It might be a stupid question but I've got a domestic water softener in-house.
Is that the same principle?
No, it's connected to the hose outside as well, purposefully for that.
But am I just wasting my time?
Well, it's not wasting your time.
It's not wasting your time but it's actually heart straight back to what we were talking about at the beginning of this podcast.
So what household softener is used?
Softener water is salt.
So you're pumping a salty mixture of water onto your cup.
Oh, that's right, that'll be good for the last couple of years.
I wouldn't go as far as saying it's a salty liquid.
No, it can't be.
It's a component of salt.
So it's a mixture of different types.
It is a resin-based thing, isn't it?
It is.
So the way that I understand it works with a domestic water softener is that what it does at once a night for about half an hour,
it basically rinses the crystals through with a salt solution and then it goes through with a plain water.
It regenerates every...
How much water going through it?
Because I've got exactly the same thing.
I've got a domestic water softener.
So it's definitely softening the water but it doesn't take out all of the minerals like these canisters do.
It's called an ion exchanger.
I think it's something like that and it uses minerals like calcium and magnesium and all sorts of different things.
But it also has sodium ions, which is salt.
So it's not the same level as Britain's.
It's not the same level.
It's not the same level but it's still salt.
It's not the idea.
It's not what you need.
It definitely stops the water marks.
It definitely does.
It helps.
Because you're knocking down from say 300 ppm down to say 150-100.
But you've still got the ppm.
It's not knocking it down to zero.
That's the difference.
The race glaze things are a different level.
Race glaze, one purpose is not to introduce minerals into the water to soften it.
It's to remove all minerals from the water to soften it.
That's the difference.
There's a difference between pure water and softened water.
You can have a high ppm softened water but you can't have a high ppm pure water.
It's zero.
That's where it goes to.
So it's worth having both.
I personally would think it was a bit of a waste of your resin in your household to pump.
They don't last for years.
They just regenerate as you say.
I personally put it on my outside tap.
The person who wired it up thought I was mad but I thought it's great for the cow.
It will help but as I said it's not the same as the race glaze.
It's a different level.
Okay.
Thank you.
Excellent.
Anybody else got any questions on that sort of subject?
Yeah.
On the subject of PPF, half my car has got PPF covering.
Does that change your advice at all on anything that we've discussed so far?
No.
PPF can be treated pretty much as paintwork does.
It has the same characteristics other than its soft film that goes over the paint.
It has the same sort of reactions to all of the products and the coatings that you use.
And it indents the PPF can be coated as well with a ceramic coating.
It has to be more of a flexible type of one but nonetheless it reacts in the same fashion.
It also is corrosion by the same fashion as well.
So let's...
So drying with a leaf blower or one of these soft cloths that's all good.
What you have to consider with PPF is that...
That is it.
It is.
It's nice.
Good evening everyone.
Good evening.
What you have to consider with PPF is because it's a porous plastic, what you may find
is if you do allow water to dry on the vehicle that isn't fully deionized or softened.
That the ingress may be more painful than what it is on actual clear coat which is harder
to deal with.
So Lee's is a prime example of that, Lee Sibley.
So on his green car we had to do some quite invasive procedures to sort of clean it up.
But even then after the cleanup process it wasn't perfect because it's just a little bit too far gone.
Now the modern PPF is designed to last for years.
And there is warranty on PPF albeit I'm quite a skeptical person when it comes to PPF warranty
on that side, aside from the yellowing.
It's very difficult to claim warranty on PPF for multiple reasons.
But you should treat the PPF like paint.
That's the basic premise.
Okay.
That's helpful.
Thank you.
Thanks.
David you had a question.
Yeah.
I use filtered water but I tend to run it through the pressure washer.
So I've got a Karcher K4.
It sounds like we seem to cope with it and don't get any problems that I noticed.
So do I need to upgrade the pressure washer because it's not...
Really?
So K4's got quite a low GPM output.
So you may blow through your resin quicker but if you're not finding that then...
Yeah.
So I do hose the resin and then hose into pressure washer, then pressure washer out.
So it's the tap water going into the resin first and then feeding the pressure washer.
But what it is is the sucking motion from the pressure washer.
Yeah.
That will force the water quicker through the vessel then optimal.
So if I attach it onto...
If I attach a resin module on, for example, the pressure washer we have at work, it just wouldn't work.
Right.
Because it's too powerful for that task.
Yeah.
So what you really then need is like a...
You would need to almost days you chain the resin modules to slow down the water.
But then that might have knock on effects to the pressure washer.
Or there's dual canister systems that can cope with higher GPM pressure washers.
But basically you'll find David.
Yeah.
Good.
That's good.
Yeah.
And then kind of a second question if I can jump in, Andy.
Again, around sort of PPF.
What's your thoughts on buying a car with PPF already installed?
So I've looked at a few cars now and who's installed it?
I'm not quite sure.
When was it installed?
I'm not quite sure.
Is there any variety on it?
I'm not quite sure.
So I've tended to sort of shy away from them on the basis that, you know, at some point,
at some point it's probably going to have to come off and is...
Am I risking pain work being damaged to get it replaced and stuff like that?
So I bought my GT3 and one of the reasons why I bought it was because it had full PPF on
it.
So it saved me 56 grand basically.
And it was a good install as well.
I wouldn't avoid it as long as it's a good install.
Yeah.
Now, if it's on a newish car, the likelihood that the paint will get peeled off is less
because OEM paint is a lot better than aftermarket paint.
The problem arises is when people PPF aftermarket paint or the PPF has been on the vehicle for
a very long period of time.
There's various ways PPF installers can remove the film.
They heat up the film.
They're pouring boiling water on it.
There's methods of lifting the film up.
Again, Paul Lee is not here, but Lee's vehicle as an example, the green, a little Irish as
it is.
I would be very worried about removing the PPF on that car because it's aftermarket paint.
It's been sprayed over old existing paint.
Even though the job when it was done was good, it's not been bare metal re-sprayed.
It was PPF prior.
It was filmed when it pried when they pulled it off to the paint off.
Yeah, exactly.
Look, life is short.
PPF is a good thing.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Otherwise, you drive yourself mad.
Can you give us a ... You said when you bought your car, you thought it was a good PPF.
What are the signs of a good ... When David goes to look at a car and he's seen a PPF car,
what are the signs that it's a good or a bad PPF installation?
Some PPFs have got more texture in it than others.
Now, that doesn't make it a good or bad PPF.
That's just ... It signals to me potentially what brand of PPF it would be.
Expel, in my opinion, which is one of the more famous ones on the market, tends to be
a little bit more orange peely than other brands.
That's because of the type of glue they use in there.
Suntech as an example, which is another major brand, tends to have a little bit less orange
peel and that's a German film as opposed to an Asian film.
A good install, you won't necessarily see as much of the edges of the PPF.
Some of the installers will take panels off or take the time to wrap the PPF around panels.
Some installers will also remove parts to hide the PPF.
The only problem with that when they start hiding the PPF behind panels and behind plastics
is that if the PPF gets damaged, it takes twice as long to take the PPF off,
which then increases the cost of replacing the PPF.
I have many conversations and Roger as well about PPF is designed primarily to be taken on and off easily.
When, for example, some abrasion happens or a big stone chip or something like that,
if the installers go so far as to hide the PPF, wrap it around every nook and cranny
so you can't see it at all, just bear in mind that from that perspective
it's going to be expensive to replace the film if it does get damaged.
But cars are expensive nowadays, so you've got to weigh up the pros and cons.
I would rather protect my paint and pay the little bit extra if something does go wrong
than have a car that is poorly PPF gets damaged and then you don't care about it as much.
I don't know if that answers your question fully, it's a bit hard.
I guess you have to have a little bit more experience there,
but you can tell if the PPF installed is good.
Because some PPF on cars, where they try and butt up against the panel
and then they might leave like a mill or two mill gap where there's some paint exposed,
I would call that a bad installation because really that's too much of a gap
that should be almost right up against the swage line, for example, that they're stretching the film over.
When I bought my GTC Turing, it had a terrible PPF job on it.
And it was pretty evident by the way that the leaf cuts were done on it.
They were all lifting along the cells, lifting in the areas around the wheel arch.
And then to boot, the guy who had done it apparently had PPFed over ceramic coating.
So the whole thing was, you could just peel it off without any problem at all.
It was lifting everywhere. So when we got it redone,
the job between a good job and a bad job is very obvious on the panels and the way it's done.
But you do pay for the privilege.
You even get films that are good, but the film still lives on the edges.
That's very common. And that's one of my pet hates of PPF.
What are the reasons for that?
As time has gone on, the PPF manufacturers have weakened the glue
because they found that the really strong glues, you can get peeled paint or peeled clear coat.
So they have weakened the glues.
Also legislation is one in terms of how the glues are made,
what solvents and stuff they can use and things of that nature has had an effect.
But it's very true, Mark. You can tell a bad PPF installation versus a good one for sure.
Excellent.
And what are some of the life's fun?
Would a PPF have, would you say?
Pen's how much driving you do.
And if it stays in the sun outside, if it's inside?
The variables are huge.
I mean, look, the PPF companies will say, oh, our PPFs are good for 10 years.
Maybe I would say PPF, you need to replace PPF after probably three to five years.
I would start thinking about replacing the PPF.
So the DC hasn't hardened and yeah, PPF hasn't shrunk and hardened and clouded.
You want to get it off before it goes bad.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Really, thank you.
Is it correct that you might get a better job on your PPF for a modern car rather than
a classic because the classics are not sort of, they're not on the computer, so to speak.
So when they're cut, they have to be cut more by hand and it's more of an artisan skill
than straight off the computer cut.
Yeah.
Yeah, that is correct.
So the more modern cars will be laser scanned because the demand for those cars being PPF
is greater.
Bulk fitting isn't ideal because of the, as you said, it's all hand cut.
So you're relying on the skill of the installer to install the PPF on a car.
But I guess it just depends really on who you go to and how good they are adding to the day.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Excellent.
Thank you guys.
I'm going to jump in with a question to divert us off a little bit.
This comes from Russell Hopkins.
I've been an avid amateur detailer stroke car cleaner for years.
There is nothing quite like I like more than cleaning our cars, maybe driving them, he
says, in brackets.
I'm now in the foolish position of owning three black cars.
What a wally.
I'm struggling with streaking after drying the car, not water spotting, just hazing almost
like I buffed the product.
I've tried several different detailing sprays and products to go back over the paintwork,
but nothing seems to work.
I don't like using ceramic coatings as I adore good old fashioned wax coatings.
But I'm starting to think that I should reevaluate.
Roger, I'm wondering if this is maybe a case that you should be using some water filtering?
It could be, but also depends on what that hazing is.
It could be marring, micro marring from basically cleaning.
It can cause that to look like hazing.
It's just very fine scratches.
If it is just a product that he's putting on and he is hazing afterwards, it's likely
that it's too much product.
It could be a possibility.
Or he could be using the wrong sort of cloth to draw off the product.
But I would say being a black car and I've owned black cars, I would say micro marring
would be my first port of call to what hazing looks like on a car.
What do you think on that?
The variables are infinite, I guess.
It could be the type of wax.
He's put too much product on the car.
So you can get product build up or silicone build up.
With a wax, it won't be silicone.
It will be the various concoctions of waxes that he's put on.
If he's using a quick detailer, it could be again product build up from the quick detailers.
It could be the shampoo he's using.
It could be micro marring.
The list is endless.
So there's no one answer.
What I would recommend, I think it was Russell.
He visits his local detailer to get advice if he knows one.
Or he comes to a GT detailing day where he will pick up some good tips on how to look after the car.
I can have glazed our eyes over it and give an assessment on there.
Poor Paolo is not here, but he bought his black Porsche to me.
I guess it was a consultation, but once we ran through how he cleans the cars,
I identified that all of his towels needed to be thrown away and replaced
because he was using poor towels to wipe down his car.
He did that and he's got his car detailed.
Now he's using good towels to look after it so the problem is alleviated.
It could be that Russell is using bad towels that are causing that marring that Roger is talking about on the vehicle.
We've got another GT day.
Have we got that in the diary yet?
We've certainly been talking about it, haven't we?
Yeah, it might be maybe early once winter's finished.
Maybe we can get Russell along with one of his black cars and it could be one that we have a little demo.
We can solve that for you, Russell.
Just a follow-up question now.
You guys have got that as well.
You have a system, you've got multiple products and they're meant to work together
and complement each other for different purposes.
We see that across the detailing industry with other chemical companies,
they've got various systems that you use.
Do you recommend just keeping to one manufacturer's systems
as they're swapping around between different products?
Do you recommend using one company's snow foam, one company's shampoo,
one company's coltons after care, etc.
Or does that matter?
It could be hard for us to buy, I think.
Obviously, we would say if you use Gary Sherwood products, keep within our system
because we believe that our system is superior to others.
However, there's no reason why you can't mix and match products.
I mean, that's often done.
What I would say is that not all brands are equal and the chemistry is not equal
and their philosophies aren't all equal.
What I'm seeing in the industry is that, especially with the economy
or economies around the world deteriorating,
there's a lot more pressures on their budgets
and a bigger drive to increase sales and margins.
Just cost of chemicals.
Possibly the way that they market their products might not be straight and true.
They'll say that products will do certain things
and they don't necessarily do that, which can confuse the end users.
We're among friends here.
Who do you respect and who don't you respect?
I think Bilt-Hambur make fantastic products.
I think global brands like G-Technik and Geon make good products.
Cochkemi is another one.
Cochkemi is a German brand.
It's another one.
There is definitely lots of good brands out there.
Mark, are there any brands that you wouldn't touch personally?
I think my comment on this is that I wouldn't say a singular brand,
but I would say the approach of the brand.
I think everyone in here would understand the difference between
something bought from Tenu and something bought from the official.
A copy of something else is never going to be as good as the original.
In that so, you can speak to things that are sold in say Halfords.
Halfords is great as a consumer one-stop place and it's driven by a price.
That means they don't sell very premium products most of the time.
They're just not sold there because the people that come in there
are looking for the best deal or the best price.
What you'll find is a lot of the products in there are built for consumers
that can't do a lot of damage if they use it incorrectly.
I think that's as far as I could say in my opinion,
something that I would buy in a Halfords shop,
I wouldn't give merit to over something that's more premium,
say if you were to find Cochkemi and stuff like that.
There are some brands that can be found in Halfords like Cochkemi and stuff like that,
but they won't supply the whole line.
They'll only have a few products.
Yeah, I've noticed that obviously on the consumer side,
where G-Technic killed, they'll let you have certain things.
They won't give you everything because they know you could damage a lot of stuff
if you don't know what you're doing with it, which makes a lot of sense
for somebody who just out in the garage.
Going back to the question I was asking about systems,
there's a lot of comfort, especially for folks that are just doing this
just to keep their cars right,
in having products that are pre-tested that work with each other
that don't damage each other when you're using them.
You can go and you can speak to people about how to use it properly
and where not to use it.
Conversations like this evening is really useful.
I like the fact that you work with a system that you have a set of products
that you align the different aspects of car care.
I quite like that.
But G-Technic is really very clear about how you'll layer up the system
and where you use what, when, and if you don't use that much,
you've used these things as well.
That makes maintenance stuff really easy compared to some of the voodoo
that you hear about and see with other products.
I'll finish on this, not to babble on,
but the way we think about our system is we always design it
from a process and business point of view.
Once that is correct and we can see that fitting into a detailer's business,
then we believe that there will be a trickle-down effect
because it's a bit like us as Porsche enthusiasts.
We want to effectively mimic what is happening in motorsport as an example.
You see all the Mantai bits getting added on GT3s and stuff like that.
You think, oh yeah, that would be cool if I had that Mantai kit on my car even though
we've got no intention of either going on the track or racing as an example.
It's the same thing in detailing.
A lot of enthusiasts will look up to famous detailers
or look at videos of detailers detailing cars
and then mimic how they use the systems and products on there.
We make sure firstly that detailers want to use the products because they work
and they accelerate their workflow so they're efficient.
We make them powerful because that's what detailers want.
Then we make sure that that trickle-down effect to the prosumers and enthusiasts,
there's good education out there, there's good documentation,
there's good how-to's out there to guide our customers on how to use the products.
Any burning questions?
Yep, I've got one.
Please Jason, go ahead.
After our celebration of all things Boxster recently,
I suddenly realised I haven't done anything to my fabric roof for the last couple of years.
Can I have an idiot's guide to what winter maintenance or protection I should be doing to my fabric roof?
Where do you want to take this one?
It's your favourite from Fabsoft.
I would purchase a good citrus cleaner.
Obviously I'll recommend Ailes.
You can dilute that down appropriately as per the back of the bottle.
Something like 1-20 or 1-50 dilution.
You spray that on your roof, you work it in with a soft brush to get all the dirt out of it
and you rinse it off with low-pressured water.
Don't use high-pressure water because you might get lines in the roof.
Once that is rinsed off and dried, you can then purchase a product like FabSeal Gold
and apply FabSeal to the roof to replenish its water-resistant fabric capabilities on there.
That's a very simple way of doing it.
It doesn't take long to clean a roof.
You just have to make sure that you give it a good scrub with a decent detergent that won't damage it.
Don't use too harsh of a brush on there because you may lift some of the fibre that's on the roof.
Also make sure that you give it a good vacuum before you start doing the work
to get any dirt particles out of the fabric roof if it's that bad.
Slow and methodical is the best way.
It's not difficult, it's just time-consuming.
Is there any top tips for soft windows?
Like an early Boxster that's got the plastic type window, is there any tips to cleaning those?
You clean them the same as any other window.
What you may find is if you start to haze up, you can get the machine polish to get the clarity back.
I guess if you've got a machine polishing yourself and some compound you can try it yourself,
or just take it to a detailer and they'll just machine polish it for you and make it nice and clear.
Do they need to do any coating over the top of it after that, or is it?
Yeah, they can apply coating on there.
I'll seal it.
Yeah, I'll seal it.
A coating I guess would be better because it will give it some UV protection.
The main thing is when you're polishing is don't move too hard on it because the heat can start to move.
Got you.
I think we'll go in with one last question and if anybody else has got any questions around this subject.
This was from Rob Ferris.
I have some wheels being built at the moment, should arrive next week.
Just wondering if I can put ceramic coat on them soon after painting.
The Hades info says wait for two or three months.
Yeah, that is the reason why we say two or three months is there's a lot more common now for people to have their wheels refurbed by mobile guys.
Back on transit.
Yeah, and they don't bake the wheels.
They use quick curing lacquers and stuff like that.
Although I have seen some mobile guys, I think they're wrapping their game now on types of equipment they're carrying on their vans.
But a lot of modern wheels will be baked in an oven.
So if they're powder coated or even painted, they'll still be baked.
And because it's baked in an oven, all of the gassing happens during that process so you can coat them immediately afterwards.
Okay, so that's fine to just go ahead as soon as they've been done.
Has anybody else got any questions on wheels, whether that's coating or cleaning of wheels?
That'll be a no.
Anybody got any questions on anything else?
I think it was a question, I think, Annie, that was in, you gave to us about rinsed this.
I don't know if you want to...
Oh, yes.
The rinsed this is quite helpful with those people in the window especially.
Yeah, certainly that was from Ben Boothroyd.
I'm not sure I can attend on it.
I'd quite like to understand a bit more about the rinseless wash product.
I don't quite get that what circumstances allow for using it.
I.e. how clean or dirty can the car be for me to use it.
So we've done a good video with Lee on Narmux.
I'll recommend watching that because we sort of explain it.
Rinseless washing is good for light dirt films effectively.
You can do medium dirt films as well.
Would you say it's more of a summer based product?
Yeah, I think so.
It can be used in the windage.
It's very difficult because if you drive in the winter and it's cold and dry,
then sometimes you don't get much dirt built up on the car.
If it's wet and cold, then the car is going to be horrific.
So no, you generally wouldn't use it in the winter to be honest with you.
And you can't really wash away the salt in the same way as what you do with more traditional ways of cleaning a vehicle.
Mark asked one more question about race techs.
Just get our interior cleaners safe for that micro suede type surfaces.
It's very economical.
You can dilute it quite heavily and that will run it back.
I saw as products, do you use it?
How do you use it?
Do you just spin it on or is it a microfiber cloth thing where you're dumping it down all the time?
So the way I clean my wheel is different, right?
If the rule is really bad, then I would spray it on the surface and work it in
and then get a towel to try and extract as much of the solution as possible.
You can also get a wet towel to wipe it down before you try and extract the wetness from the wheel.
If it's not that bad, then I would spray it onto a towel and work it in and wipe it over.
So you're not getting that surface damp or wet and teasing it off.
You can use steam on race techs as well if you've got a steamer on there which can help.
But you've just got to make sure you don't put it too close to the race techs.
The worst thing for cleaning that micro suede type material is abrasion.
So don't get a really stiff brush and rub on it because you'll damage the fibres and lift them up.
So I've got suede brushes like the Sonax ones and those types of things.
Would they be considered safe?
I'm not very familiar with the Sonax brushes but Sonax is a pretty good company.
I don't think they would generally release a brush that wasn't suitable.
But I'm going to be honest with you, even the best brands, some of their brushes I don't think are suitable for the materials.
They could be used in suitably as well.
I think that is the go the least aggressive method first.
So go with the cloth and spraying on the cloth.
If you've got hand cream on there, it should come off quite quickly.
I don't know why we'd chose a color we raced on a steering wheel for her.
I've got to admit now I've had cars now with both.
Leather is far superior for keeping clean.
Race 6 is good when you're on the track.
Around the thumb grip it gets a lot of abrasion and it goes very hard very quickly.
Excellent.
Thank you, Gents.
Thank you all.
If there's no other questions, if I could have a razor hand if there is one.
Otherwise I think we'll wrap it up for tonight.
All good, excellent.
Thank you, Maz and Roger for obviously your expert advice.
And thank you everybody else for amazing questions.
I hope you found it useful.
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About this episode
Road-salt corrosion kicks off a live detailing Q&A, with the experts explaining how saltwater enables rust and why plain water can make things worse. They walk through surfactant-based cleaning, rust inhibitors, and how long coatings and waxes last before reapplication. Winter-friendly technique shows up again in drying, hot-water setup, and blooming/condensation. The conversation then broadens to paint protection film (PPF) care, installation quality, and replacement timing—plus when rinseless washing and gentle interior cleaning (especially micro suede) make sense.
Welcome to this special open forum episode of 9WERKS Radio! In this episode, we open the floor to you, our incredible community. We are joined by the detailing maestros at Garage Therapy, alongside passionate members of the Driven Not Hidden Collective, for a completely unscripted, deep-dive Q&A session on all things detailing.
Whether you are looking to perfect the paintwork on your daily driver, protect your modern classic Porsche, or learn the secrets behind flawless machine polishing, this episode has you covered. We tackle a huge variety of listener questions, ranging from the science of ceramic coatings and safe washing techniques to maintaining cars that are meant to be driven, not hidden.
Grab a coffee, polish up your knowledge, and enjoy the discussion!
Here is the updated podcast description, complete with the standard Heritage Parts Centre promotional blurb and the 9WERKS10 discount code seamlessly integrated into the partner links.
Welcome to this special open forum episode of 9WERKS Radio! In this episode, we open the floor to you, our incredible community. We are joined in the studio by the detailing maestros at Garage Therapy, alongside passionate members of the Driven Not Hidden Collective, for a completely unscripted, deep-dive Q&A session.
Whether you are looking to perfect the paintwork on your daily driver, protect your modern classic Porsche, or learn the secrets behind flawless machine polishing, this episode has you covered. We tackle a huge variety of listener questions, ranging from the science of ceramic coatings and safe washing techniques to maintaining cars that are meant to be driven, not hidden.
Grab a coffee, polish up your knowledge, and enjoy the discussion!
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