Changing Oil By Time or Milage, Mice Making Problems in Vehicles, Strange Smells in Vehicle

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It is another Saturday morning in CCO land.

Time to talk cars, or your truck, your van,

whatever you're having problems with.

This is your opportunity to ask Nick Stoffel

from Lloyd's Automotive a question about your vehicle

while you're having these problems.

What's going on here?

This is, maybe we should call it

ask the auto mechanic, or maybe more modern,

ask the auto technician.

What do you think, Nick?

Can you be called either?

I like grease monkey.

You do, like the old term.

It is funny how it's evolved, it's changed.

I think what we should talk about,

their conditioning, looking at this forecast.

I was just going to ask you that.

There are going to be people calling in come Monday

about, maybe they've done so already,

about, hey, wait a minute,

I thought I had a little saving,

a few months here before I have to deal with it.

But yeah, we're going to be close to 90

for a couple of days in the next few days.

So I bet you do get some questions about that.

Now, we talked about AC and kind of detective work

and finding out where that leak is coming from,

if indeed that's the problem with a certain vehicle.

How do your technicians do that?

Is there kind of like a ultraviolet light

and you turn off the lights and there's smoke

coming out of where the leak is?

What is the process of that?

Well, there is a dye where you do use

the ultraviolet light to find that dye.

So what happens is somebody might come in

at some point and say their condition is not working

as well as it once was or it's not working at all.

We need to determine if it's a refrigerant issue

or something else.

There can be an electrical issue with the compressor,

something with a control panel,

but it is most common to have a leak.

And what we'll do is we'll evacuate,

figure out the level of refrigerant,

refill it to the proper level,

add a little bit of dye to that.

Now, while it's in the shop,

we'll run it and allow the system to pressurize

and look around with our black light

and try to find the source of that leak.

Oftentimes though, it's a small leak where you won't see it,

so we'll have the customer take the vehicle,

drive it for a week or two, bring the vehicle back in.

Knowing that at that point,

it's had time to kind of work its way through the system.

And once again, we'll take another look

and usually you can find that dye

with the black light and try to figure out

the source of the leak

and then come up with the game plan to fix it.

All right.

Want to alert our listeners, Nick,

if you're new to the show,

thanks for joining us by the way,

but our time goes by so quickly.

Nick is with us till just about 7.45.

So if you have any issues with the car or truck or van

that you own and you need to bring it in for service,

but you want to know ahead of the game

what could be yaling,

call Nick or text Nick sooner rather than later.

Here's the number.

6514619226, again, call or text 6514619226.

Textur did write in early this morning,

it's about a 2021 Kia Forte, or Fort, if you prefer.

It's got about 46,000 miles on it,

has been driven about 250 miles a week,

mostly freeway miles.

Textur says I am retiring,

so the mileage will be going way down

and there's a question we get from time to time.

Should servicing make the oil change among other things,

be done by time or by mileage?

The answer is yes.

That's why oftentimes you have the time

and the mileage on that sticker.

Now, if you're really going way down,

you could probably extend the time some.

You know what I would say,

I'd like to see it done on the off seasons,

meaning it'd be nice to have it done

in the fall and the spring.

Therefore, we get a good look at the vehicle,

headed into the winter.

We want to be worried about tires and such.

And then coming out of the winter,

we worry about potholes and such.

So I think those spring and fall,

at least twice a year,

to get a good shake down of the vehicle,

good assessment, see if there's any wear and tear

and any need to do items

before we change those seasons.

I would imagine that from time to time,

you and your crew get vehicles in

that have high mileage and are really old

but have been very well taken care of

and they've lasted.

I'm looking at a text to Nick from a listener

who said, I still have my quote,

old American dream, still runs.

I've had the car for 46 years.

It's not my daily driver anymore, however.

46 years now.

Have you seen evidence of that?

People coming in with the vehicles

that they regularly maintain that are pretty old?

Absolutely.

I mean, we don't see them that old anymore.

That's not really in our wheelhouse,

but we'll see cars 15, 20 years old,

300,000 miles, and it's amazing is the two things.

The two things you can do,

maintenance, follow that maintenance interval schedule,

and then wash the vehicle.

And we've talked about it, as we've transitioned

into the winter months, is spend extra dollar,

haven't sprayed the undercarriage too

because the integrity of the rust,

the effects the rust has on a lot of suspension components

and the chassis can be really hard as a car ages.

So follow that maintenance schedule the best you can.

Wash the vehicle periodically, and I think you'll find out

that the car stays on the road

in better condition much longer.

I was looking at, and we'll get to maybe some questions,

a video, of course on the internet, everything is true, right?

But this guy looked like a mechanic.

He looked like there were bays behind him

like he was actually in a shop.

And he's talking about various things

that are true or false or whatever.

Maybe we'll get to some of those things.

But in the meantime, I'm looking at some other texts

that have come in.

And again, don't wait, love to hear from you.

You don't have to be a motorhead or anything.

If you drive and have problems

and you wanna know what could be wrong,

call us at Texas 651-461-9226.

A text says this, let me see if I can find it, it just jumped.

How does a person know it's a good question?

If a vehicle needs rotors and pads or just pads?

To be honest, it's most common to replace the rotors.

If you're old enough and you go back years

and years ago, the rotors oftentimes you'd resurface them

maybe for one or two brake jobs.

Couple things have changed in the time.

First off, our brake pads have evolved.

Now you'll get 60,000 miles or so

out of the set of brake pads.

They're a ceramic-based pad and a lot of engineering

into the designing them to make them last that long.

Where years ago, they were more like an organic pad

where you might get 20 to 30,000 miles.

So the pads are lasting twice as long for sure.

Also, in order to kind of maintain

and meet our fuel economy type requirements,

the brake rotors have gotten lighter.

They've learned that that rotating weight

does affect the mileage,

so the brake rotors become thinner, lighter,

so they wear a lot quicker.

They don't dissipate the heat as well

because they're thinner, so they're more common to warp,

especially if you try to resurface them

and reuse them through a second brake job.

And the prices are much better

than they used to be also for that fact.

So I would say it's most common

that you can do the pads and rotors as a complete job.

It doesn't mean that you have to.

There's ways around it, but just keep in mind

you might get midway through that brake job

and then you have a pulsation

or you have some other issues with your brakes

that will require you to, at that point,

take it all apart and replace them.

So I think, I think the best practice

would be to do the pads and rotors together,

clean the slides, clean the hub surfaces,

make sure the calipers are all lubricated

and working well to give you the best chance

of having a good second brake job.

Yeah, very good.

Nick, let's grab a phone call before we take a break.

Bob is checking in from New Brighton this morning.

Thanks for calling, Bob.

What's your question for Nick?

Yeah, good morning.

My, I have a 2008 Buick Lucerne

and it has burnout three fuel pump relays

in about the last three weeks or so.

And so it has kind of destroyed

the fuse box, which I'm replacing.

So I'm wondering is the fuel pump

that are being responsible that's shorting

or something that fuses and causing it

to burn out that relay?

Well, you're saying that, you know, it damaged the relay,

sounds like it's damaged the panel itself

with the relay it plugs into.

That tells me there's an excess amount

of current going through there.

You mentioned that the fuel pump

could be a good possibility,

could also be a connection somewhere

that's causing high resistance.

When there's high resistance,

more current is gonna flow through that circuit.

Those circuits are designed to only handle so much current.

Once it exceeds that, at some point,

it's gonna blow the fuse.

If it's not at that point,

it's gonna potentially in this case,

damage the relay or the way it plugs into.

So I think before you just go and replace that panel,

as it sits now, let's get a new relay in there,

get somebody with an amp meter

and start doing some amp draws

to try to figure out where that excessive current

is happening, you know, through resistance or what have,

maybe it is the pump,

maybe the pump is starting to see the end of its life

and it's working too hard,

it's working too hard to just pull in more current

and it's pulling that through the circuitry there.

So I think before you just go and put a new panel

in there with the risk of damaging it,

figure out why that's happening.

So get somebody with an amp meter,

do a current test and figure out where that source is.

All right.

Hang on, Nick.

We'll take a quick break here

and come right back with more.

Keep in mind that Nick will be with us till about 7.45.

So let us hear your car care question.

651-461-9226.

Right now in the Twin Cities, we're at 67 degrees today.

We're going near 85 tomorrow.

We're gonna be closed in 90.

Couple more days like that too.

Stay with us, News Talk 830W, CCO.

It is a Saturday morning on CCO

when we talk cars, most likely your problems

you're having with your car, your truck, your van.

Nick Stauffel is with us from Lloyd's Automotive

in St. Paul.

Again, Nick, we always like to ask you

a little bit of information of where you guys located

in case somebody needs your help.

Yes, sir.

As you know very well, you can always reach out,

give us a call.

We'll help you with the question.

You don't have to come all the way to see us.

And if you have a question,

you can reach us at 651-228-1316.

If you do wanna come see us, you're more than welcome to.

We'll say hi.

We won't bite.

We're at 982 Grand Avenue in St. Paul,

which is the corner of Grand and Chatsworth.

And finally, you can check out our website,

which is LloydsAutomotive.net.

Very good.

And Nick will give you that information

before he takes his leave, about 7.45 or so.

Call us or text us with your car care question,

651-461-9226.

Here is another text.

Actually, it's not a question.

It's a follow-up from a call or text we had in previous shows.

I have a follow-up text that says,

in the gas smell coming from my Ford Maverick,

the plastic gas tank needed to be replaced

because it was warping.

I didn't realize that there are plastic gas tanks.

Is that, I guess, for the weight, I suppose?

And actually, most are.

And that can happen a lot of times

where the fuel tank, the fuel pump goes into the top

and there's a threaded cap.

If that somehow gets distorted or warped, as they said,

it may not seal up and allow a little of that fuel vapor

to leak, which, unfortunately, might

be a bit of a costly repair, but probably something

you do not want to ignore, obviously.

Yeah, very good.

Here's a question, but we hear from time to time,

and I've known people well and me too.

Mice can cause so much damage to the wiring

in a vehicle, wiring and engine compartment

of listeners texting.

The cabin filter by nesting and chewing wires and nesting.

Is there anything you can do to help rid or keep mice

from your car that is parked outside other than getting

and investing in a herd of cats?

We get this from time to time.

My boy, those critters can do a lot of damage.

You see that all the time.

You've seen that in one of my vehicles.

We do, and we have, and maybe not this week,

with the forecast, but we're into that season

where the mice are looking to come in and nest in,

they often find a way into the garage.

So this is the time of the year you're at the start

thinking bird seed or any dog food

or any kind of thing that they might be eating

that needs to be sealed up, packaged up,

to try to prevent them from moving in,

clean out your garage.

And as far as your vehicle parked outside,

try to find a different place to park.

I mean, a lot of times you parked up

on the side of the driveway next to the trees and such.

It's an easier way from the access it.

There's a lot of products you can try.

A lot of remedies, and I don't wanna get into all of those,

but there's a lot of things you can try.

So it's probably worth trying a few of those.

But yeah, this is the time of the year

where we will start seeing the mice making their way in

and then unfortunately make their way into our vehicles.

So just gotta keep it clean.

And if you have an issue, get it resolved

before it becomes a bigger issue for sure.

Because like you said, they can start nesting,

they're eating up some wiring.

It can become a very costly and unfortunate situation.

Another critter, Red Squirrels.

Another one that can do a whole lot of damage.

I know someone, I'm not sure if they did it

or a shop did it for them,

because they had all sorts of problems

with critters coming in.

Someone or a shop, as I said, put,

I don't know, it was hardware cloth or whatever,

it was somehow in the cabin filter area,

behind the glove compartment.

They were able to put some mesh, wire mesh.

At least it kept them out of there,

but you really can't cover up

your engine compartment, can you?

No, and even like with that,

that mesh seems like a really good idea,

but you have to be careful where you're putting it.

You don't want to have it fall its way into the blower motor.

You don't want to restrict air flow too much.

So just be very cautious

on anything that you do try.

Like I said, there's a lot of products out there

that will help some, the mice,

they're still here and we've been doing this

for a long time, so all we can do

is try to keep them out of our spaces.

And a friend of mine, Mike Laughlin,

a pest control buddy of mine,

has told me years ago on the air

that mice start feeling the fall coming in.

They start coming into homes, et cetera, in July.

So it's not something we have to wait till below zero

for those critters to come in.

So yeah, that's a tough call.

All right, let me look at another text.

We have a bunch of them.

Good morning, Danny.

I wanted to thank Nick for fixing my Honda Pilot

this week.

Well, that's nice.

My 2014 F-150 just started making a clicking sound

after I turn off the ignition,

sometimes when running too.

It lasts for 10 seconds, then stops.

Noise comes from the dash area on the driver's side.

Any idea what that could be?

Likely, I'm gonna get this with one of the mode

or temp doors with that HVAC system.

There's little actuators that will move those flaps

to control the location of the air,

the temperature of the air.

Oftentimes the gearing will get stripped,

creating a clicking noise.

So it can be something like that.

There might be a relay that's cycling in there.

If you're noticing and affecting anything

within the vehicle, obviously make a note of that

so they can focus on that area.

But just kind of pay attention to it.

Maybe next time it's in for service,

mention it, they can drive it and try to park it

and have the same thing happen

and try to locate the source of the noise

and figure out why that's happening.

Okay.

This listener, Nick, says they have a 2000

beautiful saber.

The message says on the dash

that I have a loose gas cap.

I replaced it with a new cap.

Still says loose cap.

Any idea or is there a way to reset the message display?

There may be a reset procedure,

but I think oftentimes what that cap light is telling us,

because I can't see the cap obviously,

is that there's a very small evaporative system leak,

which oftentimes would be the cap.

But there's other things in that system

that could create that.

So I would probably have somebody scan the vehicle,

see if there's any other fault code stored,

maybe run an evap test,

try to find the source to see what's going on,

if it is the cap,

or if there's another solenoid or a valve

that's leaking a little bit to create that warning

to keep popping up on you.

Okay.

This texture, by the way,

our number is, if you want a call, by the way,

and chat with Nick, great, or just send a text.

6514619226.

2015 Nissan, that occasionally,

not every time will show on the dash

the key not detected

and will prevent the car from starting.

The FOB battery is only four months old.

What do you think is causing this?

I would still try a new FOB battery.

If that doesn't resolve it, try your other key

and then see what happens there.

We need to try to isolate what's going on.

So if the key FOB battery fixes it,

a lot of times you put a new battery

but it's been on the shelf somewhere for a long time,

and they're small, low capacity,

so it's possible that's all it is,

and likely that's all it is.

If that's not the case, try your other key.

If it's happened with both keys,

and then we have the pause and say,

okay, there's something within the vehicle,

the responder there.

A little tip though, if it keeps not seeing the key

and the car won't start,

if you hold the key right next to the push button,

it should, as a default, still work.

You know, you're close enough proximity

that you don't need that amplifier of the battery

where the key FOB and the receiver inside the dash

will see each other and the car will start.

Now that's not a long-term fix, obviously,

but if you're in a pinch,

that'll get the car going another time for you.

Yeah, that's a good point.

All right, Nick, hang on.

We'll take a break and talk about that hot forecast

coming up, and then we have more show to come.

If you have any kind of a car care question,

we'd love to hear from you.

651-461-9226 from News Talk A3O.

This is WCCO, and we're back at it talking cars

more likely problems you're having with your car,

your truck, your van, and you want some answers.

You gotta bring it in for service,

but you wanna know what could be ailing in the meantime.

Why don't you call Nick Stalfel

from Lloyd's Automotive right here,

or send a text if that's easier.

651-461-9226, and we have more text to get you going here, Nick.

Oh, the more just jumped in.

All right, 2025 miles to plug in hybrid.

Wondering, Texas, is about oil changes

where at least half the miles are driven

with the electric motor.

How often should that be changed on the main engine?

I would think the manual probably will tell you.

As it says, you should still follow the maintenance interval,

and I do know that it does cycle,

but it started in stopping a lot more, the engine is,

so it's probably a similar interval.

Maybe you can stretch it a little bit.

I wanna be careful, because you know what happens

is that we don't do it when we forget about it,

then we don't do it, and that's a bigger problem,

and it's pretty inexpensive maintenance.

So I would check the owner's manual,

read up on it, maybe get on some forums

and see what people are doing,

but I wouldn't veer too far from it, honestly,

because I'd hate to run the risk

of having some sort of mechanical problem with the engine

that could be prevented with a little bit of maintenance.

Yeah, 2015 terrain, the question is,

do today's smaller engines tend to use oil?

This particular 2.4 liter uses about a quart

between oil changes.

Can that be, quote, normal for that particular vehicle?

Well, unfortunately, we're seeing more of that

where engines do use a bit of oil.

I just think the talent was gotten so tight

and the demand on the oils become so much more

with the variable valve timing

that we're just seeing more of that

where oil's being used up a bit.

And so that's when we fall into follow the interval,

and that's why I know some of these

mileage intervals have extended,

but we're firmly, firmly at $5,000 on a synthetic oil.

If you still use conventional oil,

probably $3,000, and that's just based

on the fact of what we see every day.

We're doing a lot more timing chain type jobs.

Like I said, the variable valve timing,

there's solenoids, there's passages,

there's a lot of stuff that we see

as a result of oil buildup sludge,

excessive heat, lack of lubrication.

And I just think it's the simplest thing you can do

is get on a regular routine set of reminder

in your phone even, you know?

Because we all look at our phones

and if you have a reminder in your phone

and you remind them to get your oil changed,

you're more likely to do it.

So it's cheap maintenance

and we should all do it on a regular basis.

Absolutely.

This listener of IoTeX says this Nick,

I have a 2016 GMC Sierra

that randomly throws a cold start rough idle fault code.

Any idea what might be needed to resolve that issue?

It depends on what the code is.

I understand it's a cold start rough idle,

but there's a series of numbers there.

They're gonna tell us what's happening.

Is it running too lean, too rich?

You know, if it's misfiring a little bit,

if there's something with the fuel system,

there's a lot of variables there

that could affect an engine,

especially on a cold start.

So I would say have somebody do the proper diagnosis,

retrieve the fault code, see what that code is

and keep in mind, the code doesn't tell you,

oh, this is broken.

A code will say this particular sensor's

not working properly, it's not seeing the right reading.

It's running too lean, too rich.

It has a misfire.

It doesn't say the spark plug's bad.

It doesn't say that the oxygen sensor's bad.

It says that the oxygen sensor's not reading properly.

Now, could those components be faulty?

For sure they could, but example with an oxygen sensor,

and this happens, it'll say, oh, it's running too lean,

people think the sensor's bad,

well actually, there's a little pinhole leak

in the exhaust just upstream from that sensor

so we have air sneaking in there.

Well now it's gonna have too much oxygen in,

so it's gonna think that it's running too lean.

When in reality we have something misfeeding it

and so it's getting around information.

So we have to be careful not to assume

that these codes tell us exactly what's wrong.

It's a symptom, gives us a clue where to look

to do the proper diagnosis

to find out what is really wrong.

All right.

I'm looking at another text.

Oh boy.

It's a 2023 Hyundai and in the last two weeks,

Texture says every so often I get a slight whiff

of something that smells like fish.

Now my car's clean.

I thoroughly checked everything,

including under the hood.

I checked the filter.

It was clean.

I did find a flattened mouse

that was completely dried out in that crease

where the hood closes by the windshield.

It seemed too old to be responsible for the smell.

I completely vacuumed everything.

Couple days later I got that faint smell of that again.

Where else can I look?

Man, what would you do about that?

Well at the base of the windshield

is where the air intake is for a heated

and cooling system, you know that the cabin

for those can be in between there in the blower motor.

I wonder if something didn't make its way

into the heater box.

It might be worth removing the cabin filter,

getting in with a mirror and a flashlight

to see if you can see anything.

You know the fact there was one there

makes me wonder if there's not more.

That's really true, I don't wanna cause alarm

but I think we need to look a little bit deeper.

Removing the cabin filter and getting a look inside

that heater box as much as you can

might be the first step.

Yeah.

I remember years ago not the car I have now

but there was a faint kind of a mildew smell.

And I looked online which can be dangerous I know.

And I was running the car with plenty of outside air

and I sprayed in a can of Lysol

and that may be the whole can.

Through that intake you were suggesting there.

And I always changed cabin filters anyway.

And that worked, whatever it was totally disappeared.

I'm not sure what caused that.

But yeah, I think you may be on this something

because sometimes there's not just one mouse.

But I don't know that particular.

Excuse me, were there's one

and I'm always worried there's a hundred right now.

And that's probably not true.

But they're also like you mentioned me with the Lysol

there are products out there too.

And you can really easy to follow the instruction

to tell you to run the vehicle, get the research

and all that and you can spray that

at the base of the windshield where the air intake is

to kind of help sanitize I guess to some extent

that whole system.

So it's not a bad thing if you have a little bit

of an off smell, get the cabin filter replaced,

clean everything up, those parts store,

sell those products and you can absolutely do it yourself

very simple instructions, run that product

through the air conditioning and heating system there

especially as we're rolling into the winter months

where we'll have the heat on all the time.

It may not be a bad idea to kind of freshen things up

before we get too cold out.

Yeah, good idea.

I was telling you about this quote,

a mechanic looking guy that's on video

that was giving all these different tips

and warnings and advice.

And I would say they were pretty good

from what I would see.

But he was suggesting that you lubricate

from time to time all of your latches, door hinges,

tailgate, all that stuff on your vehicle

with I think he was basically suggesting

like white lithium grease.

But what do you think about that idea?

You know, I don't think it's a bad idea

just make sure whatever product we're doing

doesn't collect the dust from the dirt

because then you start gumming things up

and then all of a sudden you have a situation

where they don't latch.

Now your door won't close.

Maintenance and moderation,

all these little do-it-yourselfers, it's a great idea.

You and I have talked about the door lock cylinder before too.

It's a good idea to stick the key there

and move that a little bit.

All these systems in our vehicles

that we don't use all the time

that we're expecting them to work when we want them,

it's probably fair enough to check those items

and make sure they're going to.

Spare tires are full of air.

I mean, all these little things are important.

And I don't see anything wrong with putting

a little lubricant on there to make sure

it's working freely and it's clean

of any kind of obstruction.

Just don't overdo it because that's what we often see

is that if someone's trying to do good,

they do too much and then we create a bigger problem

which could have been easily avoided.

Yeah, I did that very thing on my wife's SUV.

I was lubricating the back, the tailgate latch

and then I came back and I thought,

boy, this is tough to get open.

And whatever I used was the wrong lubricant

and it did collect gunk.

So yeah, what do they say less is more

and use the right product that I think.

Absolutely.

You're onto something.

Now the thing this guy suggested,

and I know we gotta run,

is to clean your wiper blades often.

I think he was just suggesting,

some people suggest like rubbing alcohol,

but he was suggesting just like a dish detergent

or something light.

Do that by hand from time to time.

What do you think of that?

Once again, I don't think it's a bad idea.

I wouldn't go heavy on the soap

because we don't wanna make a streaky

or put a film on the windshield, obviously,

but a light product, a little, you know,

little Windex even and a clean paper towel.

And I think you'll be amazed to see the stuff

that comes off of your wiper blade.

And, you know, as we transition into seasons,

you know, all these little things

probably do help those wiper blades last a little longer.

You know, it seems kind of silly and simple,

but, you know, if it takes just a couple seconds

and saves you a set of blades,

which could be probably $40,

seems like it's worth it.

And like you and I suggest in the dead of winter,

don't use your wiper blades to scrape off the ice.

Don't do it.

It doesn't matter how many times you say that,

your wipers are not intended to clear

your windshield from snow.

That heavy snow will break something.

And after the first heavy snow,

we'll have a few cars coming in and, you know,

nobody turned on their wipers,

but somehow they don't work.

And the other thing too is,

if you're going through a drive through a bank

or fast food and you go to put your window down,

it doesn't go down, make sure you put it back up.

And what I mean by this,

because you put tension on that regulator,

and we've seen it in the past where when things warm up,

all of a sudden my window just fell down.

Well, because you had that tension on it

for a period of time, and it's a rare occasion.

You know, it's not gonna happen necessarily all the time,

but it can happen.

So you keep hitting the dumb button,

oh, this window doesn't work.

Well, make sure you hit the up button once,

at least to take the tension off

if it is frozen in place.

Good point, good point.

Nick, we gotta run.

Let's tell folks how to get in touch

with Lloyd's Automotive.

Yes, sir, if you have a question,

you can reach us at 651-228-1316.

And on this beautiful warm week,

if you're out walking on Grand Avenue,

come check out our plants.

They're looking very festive.

We're at 982 Grand Avenue.

And then you can find all our information on our website,

which is LloydsAutomotive.net.

All right, Nick, thanks so much for the help.

Let's join forces next week and have a cool week,

and I'm sure we'll talk about AC,

among other things when we get back.

Thanks, Nick.

Thanks, Denny.

Nick Stoffel from Lloyds Automotive.

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