GM 6.2 L87 Engine Recall Part 2. Did Mine Pass The Inspection?

The following is a production of GearHead Media.

All right, welcome back to the all-automotive podcast.

I'm your host, Matt Clausen.

And today, today I wanted to go over a couple things here.

I got my second letter in the mail

for my 6-2 L87 engine recall,

so the dealership was ready for me.

So I'll talk about that.

I did get some fan mail from Atlanta, Georgia,

and we'll answer his question about bearings, engine bearings.

And we'll clarify all that.

So I'm glad you're all here.

Passing your seatbelts.

And welcome to the all-automotive podcast.

All right, so I got my second letter a couple of weeks ago

on the L87 engine recall.

And pretty straightforward,

but I wanted to make sure everyone was aware

of one of the paragraphs that's in this letter.

So it says it's important for you to schedule your vehicle,

and I'm gonna read this word for word.

It is important that you schedule your vehicle

for this recall inspection procedure

as soon as possible.

If your vehicle receives the recall inspection remedy,

you will be provided additional protection

if the engine failure occurs in your vehicle

as a result of this condition.

If this condition occurs on your vehicle

within 10 years from the date

it was originally placed in service

for 150,000 miles and for you metric people,

that's 240,000 kilometers,

whichever occurs first,

your engine will be repaired or replaced at no charge.

The terms of your vehicle's powertrain warranty

govern your vehicle's coverage for engine failure.

Diagnosis or repair of the conditions

other than the condition described above

and engine failures that occur outside

of your vehicle's powertrain warranty

are not covered under this special coverage program.

So there was a lot of confusion about

are we gonna get an extra warranty if our engine passes.

So this is telling me yes.

And yeah, so scheduled my appointment

with the local Chevrolet dealer,

called them up, got me in right away.

It was just about two days out.

I mean, I would bet that the size of dealership

that they are, they've got probably three guys

that know how to do it or can do it.

I mean, it's a relatively big dealership,

big service department,

four to five service advisors

so you can imagine how many technicians there are.

So yeah, they got me in right away.

They did the PicoScope test

and if you're not up to speed on that either,

the PicoScope we use in the industry,

we use as a scope to check electrical patterns

and other things that are electrical in nature

so that we can see wave forms

of fuel pumps, can bus line voltages,

cranking cam sensor values and so forth.

So what the PicoTest is doing,

and I kind of covered this on the last episode

about what they were doing.

And so they take a knock sensor

and what the knock sensor does

is it picks up noise in the engine

and it sends an electrical signal

to the engine computer to tell the engine computer

to change the timing based on the amount of knock

it's hearing from pre-ignition

or whatever the case may be.

But that's what its purpose in life is.

So they're using a knock sensor,

powering it up and attaching it to the side of the engine

and an empty bolt hole boss on the left side,

I'm guessing that that's the location.

And what they do is they start your engine

and then they take a short,

I say short, it's probably up to 30 seconds I think,

30 seconds to a minute.

They let the engine run

and the knock sensor waveform gets uploaded to GM

and this is on their GM programming system website,

which is what we use to install new software

into the modules or program a module that is blank

or update modules that need updating.

So in this system it would,

so you capture it with your locally with your tool

and then you upload that file

and then GM says your engine passes,

it's green, the screen's green,

or it fails, the screen is red.

So fortunately, mine passed and we kind of knew that.

We went over my numbers as far as the bearing material

is concerned and the amount of metals

that were in my oil.

If you didn't listen to the episode,

we had a couple of episodes.

We talked to Lake Speed Jr.

He is head of speed diagnostics

and what they do is they do oil analysis,

oil, he is the motor oil geek as he calls himself.

And if you get the opportunity,

go back there and take a listen to that.

Lake's a great guy.

We had good conversation about oil

and if you're on the fence about

what kind of oil to use or what brand oil to use.

He's got so many YouTube videos

that at the end of watching a number of them,

you'll probably be in good shape

as far as what oil to get for your particular application,

your location, your use.

There's all kinds of variables

and we kind of discussed all that stuff too.

So again, took my truck in for this recall.

They were ready for me.

My truck passed, which was good news for me.

And I didn't really get anything formally

other than a receipt that said what they had done.

And nothing formally, no formal letter

or anything like that, reinforcing the 10 year,

150,000 or 240 kilometer extension special policy,

if in fact the engine fails due to a bearing related issue.

So I didn't get anything formal there,

but you know what, I'm gonna keep this letter.

I'm gonna keep the other one.

I've got the receipt too

and they're not gonna delete anything.

So if I lose the dealership,

I can call them and get all my service records,

a punch of a button,

and they can print those out

and the service advisor that I dealt with,

we had worked together in the past at a previous dealership.

So she was very helpful in getting me in and out of there

in a timely manner.

And I appreciate that

and I appreciate those guys over there.

So yeah, I mean, engine passed

and we kind of knew that based on my oil sample numbers

that I got back.

I mean, my wear rate in a thousand miles

is only 5.9 parts per million, which is very, very good.

And all my other numbers were significant as well,

significantly low as well.

So yeah, I mean, they changed the oil,

which I guess I had changed it

after I sent my oil sample in back in June.

I think I did it around my birthday.

And so yeah, second week in June-ish.

So the oil had only been in there

for like two months, the 0.20,

because I changed it so that I could send my oil sample off

to see where we were at at 24,000 miles.

So they switched it to the 0W-40,

Dexos recommended or qualified oil

and put me a new oil cap on that says it now takes 0W-40

instead of 0W-20.

So you guys have to really kind of realize

that the distance between the crank and the bearing

is filled with oil.

And if you've seen race bearings,

they have a groove all the way around through them.

And you know why that is

is so they can get more oil in there.

But I don't think our rod bearings are in the engine

that we've got or they're smooth all the way

from, you know, in their half moon.

I would instruct you to go to Mali's website.

Mali is a German company that owns Clevite.

Clevite bearings have been around for a lot of years.

And if you go to their website,

you can pull up the different types of

bearings that they make.

So Mali or Clevite, and let's just use Clevite

because it's easier to say.

Clevite makes a tri-metal engine bearing.

So in the picture that's on their website,

it has a top alloy layer, but the most of it

is copper and lead alloy.

And then a precision steel back is what they say.

So that's the part that sits on the rod.

So the rod cap is a half moon.

And then the top part of the piston rod is the other half.

And you put those together.

So getting back to the viscosity part of it.

So the 40 weight or the difference between 20 weight

and 40 weight is quite substantial really

as far as the viscosity.

And if you look at the synestopes and that each of these oil

viscosities has, it's pretty different.

I mean, the 0W20 and synestokes, I'll define that too.

That's the oil's ability to flow at 100 degrees Celsius,

which is the boiling point, I guess.

So its ability to flow is determined

and it's in a synestope value.

So 8.8, and we're using AMS oil's numbers here.

So 020 is 8.8 and 0W40 is 14.5.

So its ability to flow is a little higher

because it's thicker.

But the thickness also helps you fill in those imperfections

in the crankshaft or the bearing.

So you're increasing the bearing oil clearance distance.

So if you wanna put a sheet of paper

between your two fingers and then you put three sheets

of paper between your fingers, there's a difference.

There's a difference in the thickness.

And that's a very crude way to tell you

how that oil is actually the paper in my example here.

So like I said, we did get some fan mail from Atlanta, Georgia

and I'll paraphrase a couple of different things.

He enjoyed listening to the 6.2 recall

and my oil analysis and he had a question.

He says, but everything I find today about bearings

would say that light duty trucks,

which would include the truck I own as well as you.

And he owns a 2024, probably the AT462 Sierra.

That's what he said, it was a 2024 6.2 GMC.

And he wanted to know what are we really actually looking for?

Well, we're looking for any kind of metals really,

but the metals that are gonna be in there

are specific to specific parts.

I mean, the engine set, the 6.2 L87 is aluminum.

So we're looking for low aluminum numbers, obviously.

And the iron, that's from all the other parts,

the cylinder walls and so forth.

So to answer your question,

if you have the bearing material

is basically the copper tin in the lead,

you're gonna have very, very small amounts of aluminum.

If it's anything, it's covered up by aluminum for the look

and for the extra protection on that initial roll around

where you just have, right after assembly,

you got assembly lube and you're trying to prime it,

you're trying to get oil between the two

and you're gonna have a little bit of scuffing.

Probably not much, but that's an extra added layer

of protection there.

So really to answer the question,

it's the copper tin, the lead, and yes, they are aluminum.

There is some aluminum in them

and there is aluminum particles in our engine

and can be in our engine,

but it's not necessarily from,

the aluminum is not necessarily from the bearings.

So, and he's been invited into the recall as well,

so his truck's involved in this recall

and he sent his oil off to Blackstone Labs,

which is very similar to speed diagnostics

and what Lake Speed Junior does.

And if you go to the Blackstone Labs website,

do the same thing, order the kit,

drain your oil in there,

stick it in the mail,

send it in and they'll send your report back.

So my suggestion to all of you

that are unfortunately in the same boat that we are in,

it's like a barge, I think.

It's not a boat, it's actually a boat,

but it's a barge because there's so many of us.

I don't know if 800,000 people can fit on a barge,

maybe the ones they bring from China.

Anyways, it's, you know, we're in this boat

and to me, it's a $65,000, $70,000 truck

depending on your option levels

and the little amount of money

that it takes to send off these oil samples

so that you can get a picture

of exactly what's going on with your particular engine.

And I'm sorry, guys, but I'm gonna monitor this

from, I'm gonna probably do

an oil analysis on this truck every single year.

And I probably will do it twice a year

because, you know, I tow and I've got a travel trailer

and I tow dirt bikes and side by side, you know,

I have the opportunity to tow.

It does get, according to me, it gets very warm here

in Michigan, but it also gets very cold.

And so we've got two different extremes.

So those of you that are out there saying,

oh, well, the 40-way, it doesn't do anything,

do your research and figure it out on your own.

There are so many sources out there

that you can figure out why.

Well, we all know why they went with the Zero W20.

It's because they get 15 miles to the gallon, you know?

I mean, I struggled to get 20 out of that thing

going down the highway, you know,

the speed limit's 75 in our state on major highways.

And it's higher than that.

In some states, I think it's higher than that.

I'm not really sure.

So educate yourself on what oil brand you want, number one.

And I'm not sitting here saying that

mobile one or any of those

Penn's Oil, Platinum Plus or Ambs Oil,

it's not what was in the truck.

Did you buy a brand new?

Then you got the opportunity to put it in whatever you want.

But be known and be aware that

once you change the oil from the factory,

mobile one, Dexos three or whatever it is,

the change, when you change the oil,

you're not getting all the oil out.

So the new oil you put in

is technically gonna be sort of contaminated.

And that's a very crude way to say it,

but it's gonna affect the additive package

that's in the new oil.

So, and I know it's stuff's like 15, 20 bucks a quart.

We don't wanna be pouring stuff down the oil,

pouring stuff through to flush it out.

You can.

And if you wanna do that, that's great.

But I would say just let it drain as long as possible

and make sure that, and our oil filter is

straight up and down so that you have the opportunity

to pour the oil in the oil filter

before you turn it up there.

And don't forget to put a little bit of thin layer of oil

on that rubber gasket,

because gosh, I did an oil change this past week.

And man, they crammed that oil filter on.

Guys, it's not holding the car together.

It really isn't.

They all have a torque spec

and it's basically not really more than you can turn

with your own hand.

And I think our local drive-through oil change places,

I've had a few that come back for leaks or something

because they cranked, this thing was cranked on there.

I couldn't believe it.

It was a Honda and it was really simple to get to.

It was one of them smaller ones,

but man, I had a heck of a time pulling on that thing.

And I'm not weak by any means, but it's like, geez.

So put oil in the oil filter before you put it up there.

Let the oil drain as much as possible.

If you wanna flush half a quart through that,

it would help get things out of there.

But after that initial change to the different brand

that you've researched and you love

and you went to the parts store and you feel good about,

take that oil to its extent,

extend it to its oil life, take that through that's life,

drain it out, send a sample in, see what it's doing,

see what's in it.

You could even send in a brand new sample if you wanted.

Say you wanna know what the Mali levels are

or the calcium or the zinc that's in it.

So all of that stuff helps prevent wear.

So again, run it through its oil change,

take it out, send it in, check your metals.

And if your metals are low and good,

and I would say that most of us are around,

less than 30 or 40,000 miles

unless you're driving the crap out of it.

And you're driving quite a lot of miles in a day.

But I mean, geez, I've had mine for a year and a half,

almost two years now and I've just getting close

to 25,000 miles.

So, yeah, and if you have brought it, bought it brand new,

again, the recommendation is to change it,

change it as soon as you can.

Give it a thousand miles or so,

but man, you wanna get that new fresh oil

because the most wear occurs in the first 10,000 miles.

So keep that in mind too.

So thanks for the fan mail.

I appreciate that.

We get those every now and then

and I wanted to talk about that one.

So, and I would imagine that he's gonna get his second letter.

This was back in August when this person sent this through.

So I appreciate you guys listening down there

in Atlanta, tell your friends all about it.

You know, we're here about all kinds

of stuff automotive.

So thank you for that.

So again, educate yourself on what you want,

what you wanna gain, what you wanna learn.

And then it's all a matter of doing the oil test.

I mean, that's just, that to me at this point,

this truck is expensive enough.

And you know, I understand, I get it.

I get it, we're all on this barge floating along,

wandering and worrying and you know, I'm not.

And with my numbers, I'm like, oh, that's great.

I don't think mine's affected.

I don't have, I don't think I'm gonna have a problem.

And let me tell you, my truck has been

to the red line on several occasions.

So it's nice that this is out there for us to do

whether you use Blackstone Labs, Speed Diagnostics, whoever.

Lake does a really good job of explaining everything.

I'm not sure what the paperwork looks like

other than the front page that was on their website.

But I would imagine that they're probably

trying to tell you the same thing.

So lots of cool stuff out there.

If you dig around and it's an ongoing thing.

But hey, you know, check out, you know,

that question he had about the bearings.

Go to Molly's website, click on performance

and we wanna look at performance engine bearings

and you can go down and you can look

at the cleavite coated bearings.

They have a dry film coating.

Again, that's just for initial startup.

Low friction polymer based offers

extraordinary protection and lubricity for extreme conditions.

We will be back after a short break.

Hey guys, it's Matt Claus and your host

of the all automotive podcast.

I've been in the automotive industry for over 30 years.

I've owned my own repair shop for the last 15 years.

I was gonna write a book,

but I started this podcast instead.

So come join me for my take

on vehicle extended service contracts

or what to look for when purchasing used vehicle.

Like and subscribe to the all automotive podcast.

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Do you have extreme conditions with your factory stock 6.2L87?

I know I do.

I think I do.

I don't know.

What's extreme?

Define extreme.

So maybe that's something to think about

for a future episode.

So yeah, we've been doing lots of stuff around here.

Next episode, stay tuned for that.

We're gonna be talking about,

I'm gonna give you the update on Miss Delilah

out in the barn, our 1968 C10.

So if you're interested in that,

that's gonna be our next episode.

But hopefully you could do your research.

Hopefully everybody is gonna be able to get

through this recall and not be

too disappointed in the outcome.

And again, if it does fail,

yeah, they're gonna give you an engine.

And like I said, whether it's in a timely manner,

that's what the problem is,

is getting the replacement engine.

But I was also thinking about that too.

If you do get your new engine

and your truck has to go in there,

I would seriously pay the extra money.

Myself, I would ask this of the service department

and I don't know if I'm probably gonna open

a huge can of worms, but I would certainly pay

to have the oil pan taken off of the new engine

and the rod bearing caps pulled off

and I wanna look at those bearings.

And that crank, just to make sure.

I would pay for that.

I know all I gotta do is put it back together

and re-torque it.

That's not like it's gonna hurt anything.

Or maybe you don't wanna have them do that

or on the opposite side of that is,

wow, I don't really want them to touch anything

because if they touch something,

then it does go bad, then you paid them to do that.

So devil's advocate, maybe, I don't know,

but I think I would.

Especially if it's like a customer pay situation

where if you're outside of this recall and looking in

and you've got whatever year is not involved in this,

I think it's a 19 or 20s

and you have a 62 and it blows up

and it's got rod bearing issues,

well, then let's dig in and see what's going on here.

But yeah, I mean, if you end up paying for this engine,

I mean, it's, oh my gosh.

I would say the price of that engine's up there now,

really up there.

I bet you it's close to 10 grand.

I bet you it would be close to that.

So another investment that you're gonna make,

why not make sure that things are done,

you know, take a couple of rod bearings off.

I would do the center two cylinders, center four

and see what you got there, put it up on the engine stand,

roll it over and roll it around and check it out.

It's not hard.

I don't think the, what you might be out would be

the rod bolts, if it's bolts.

Most of them are studs with nuts,

so you might be out an additional amount for the nuts,

but who knows?

I know some of the GM products use bolts

that are torqued to yield because they do angle.

You know, they don't just torque it to 45 foot pounds,

they torque it to 10 foot pounds and an extra 45 degrees.

So because the tensile strength of the bolt

stretches or doesn't stretch,

and all of a sudden you've got torque specs

that are all over the place to where the angle

gets you where you need to be.

So yeah, you might be out some nuts

or something like that, but man,

and I would also invest in the, you know, plastic gauge

is cheap, you know, get some plastic gauge,

stick it in there, reef it down and see.

All right, is it even within the tolerance of the spec?

I would hope so.

I would certainly hope so.

You know, is it too tight?

Is it too loose?

You know, we don't want either, really.

You want it right on the money.

Or right in between that spec.

So go look at the spec for the bearing to crank clearance.

And what plastic gauge is, it's just a little plastic string.

That's no bigger than the tip of your pen.

And you cut off a section, you put it in between the two,

but you put some on the rod bearing cap

and then you tighten the cap down

to the crank and you torque it

and you pull the cap off and see where it is.

And it's got a gauge on there.

And it has the gauge on the plastic thing that it comes in.

So all stuff and how to build an engine

and maybe we'll get into that, but you'd want to see

what the clearances are, clearance value is.

And that would be important too.

And especially if you're getting

a non-GM remanufactured engine

or a new one from somewhere,

you want to make darn sure

that the things were done right

because in my experience with engines,

and if they're remanufactured,

it just depends on who remanufactures it

and their remanufacturing process.

Because you, you know, we fought that one.

I think I told you about that one.

We fought one that had a cylinder three misfire

for no reason other than it wasn't bored correctly.

And this particular remanufacturing place

didn't want to stand behind it.

So that it couldn't be, couldn't be them.

We put an engine in it that we rebuilt

and G-Wiz didn't have an issue.

So again, you know, just educate yourself on your oil

and what brand you want to do.

And then if you understand what the difference

in the weight is,

it's helpful.

It's certainly helpful.

And then, you know, this has gone around my Facebook group,

a number of different times.

I'm in a Facebook group that recently with this recalls,

been a lot of doom and gloom,

but there are, you know, a lot of individuals out there

that are running on their own.

And I think that's a good thing.

You know, a lot of individuals out there

that are running the 530, full synthetic,

0W30, 040.

So, and there's guys that say,

hey man, I live where it's hot and cold,

you know, the 020, they haven't told me to change yet.

So that's what we're using.

So across the board, it's all over the place.

And again, you don't know anything

until you get the oil tested.

So that's my recommendation.

So thanks for listening.

We have got a lot of stuff coming up.

I've got a couple of different things in the pipeline.

We're gonna do the update on Delilah

and I also got a special guest coming up

before the end of the year.

And hey, thanks for listening to the All Automotive Podcast.

All right, that's gonna do it

for another episode of the All Automotive Podcast.

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We'd appreciate your input and fan mail

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Stay tuned for our next episode

as we update you on our 1968 C10.

So until next time, keep that greasy side down.

GM 6.2 L87 Engine Recall Part 2. Did Mine Pass The Inspection?

Chevrolet C10

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