0:00 / 0:00
How to Build a Cummins Engine the Right Way (Part 1)

How to Build a Cummins Engine the Right Way (Part 1)

Power Driven Podcast Apr 28, 2026 54 min
0:00
0:00

About this episode

The hosts dig into the practical side of building Cummins engines the right way, starting with inspection and cleaning, then moving into measuring clearances, ring gap, piston-to-wall fit, and bearing setup. They share a lot of hands-on tips, like chasing threads, cleaning oil passages, checking cam bearing alignment, and using spreadsheets to track measurements. The discussion also covers ring orientation, oil clearance choices for street versus race builds, and how different parts and clearances affect durability and power.

Filter:
|
Technical Too Afraid to Ask
Concept

ring gap

"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"

When the piston rings are installed, there’s a tiny space between the ring ends. That space matters because the rings expand when the engine gets hot—too little gap can cause rubbing or damage, and too much gap can reduce sealing.

Part

bearing clearance

"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"

Bearings need a very specific tiny clearance to work correctly. If it’s too tight, parts can overheat; if it’s too loose, oil pressure drops and the engine can wear out faster.

Concept

break-in

"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"

Engine break-in is the early running process used to seat piston rings and establish proper wear patterns on new or freshly rebuilt components. The goal is consistent heat cycles and controlled load so rings seal well and bearings/valvetrain components wear in safely.

Part

Loctite

"What Loctite do you use? What lube do you use on the head studs?"

Loctite is a sticky chemical you put on threads to help bolts stay tight. It helps stop bolts from backing out over time from engine vibration.

Part

head studs

"What Loctite do you use? What lube do you use on the head studs?"

Head studs are the heavy-duty bolts that hold the top of the engine (the cylinder head) tightly to the block. Using the right lube helps the studs tighten correctly so the engine sealing stays reliable.

Concept

machine shop

"When you very first get a block and we will assume that you paid a machine shop or somebody to machine it. What's the first step you do, Myra?"

A machine shop is where they do the precision machining on engine parts. After they’re done, the engine builder checks everything so the engine can be assembled with the right clearances.

Concept

cleaning fee

"It is not on your machine shop to make sure you plugged all your oil galleys and they don't have like, obviously, if you pay the cleaning fee, you should at least be inspecting it as the builder."

Sometimes the shop charges extra to clean the parts after machining. Even then, it’s smart to check that everything is sealed up and clean so oil can flow correctly.

Part

oil galley plugs

"But there are oil galley plugs that plug the ends of the oil rail, galley, whatever you want to call it that supplies oil to all of your engine... So make sure those holes are plugged in."

When an engine is built, there are channels that carry oil to lubricate everything. Oil galley plugs are small caps that seal the ends of those channels so oil doesn’t leak out.

Term

oil rail

"But there are oil galley plugs that plug the ends of the oil rail, galley, whatever you want to call it that supplies oil to all of your engine."

Think of the oil rail as part of the engine’s oil delivery system. It’s where oil is routed so it can reach the moving parts that need lubrication.

Concept

engine assembly cleanliness

"So make sure those holes are plugged in. And so how do you clean out those oil rifles though?... I like to like, we have a parts washer... throw it through that and then break clean it... Use some bore brushes."

This is about keeping the engine really clean while building it. If oil passages aren’t sealed and cleaned properly, the engine can leak oil or get dirty oil that harms bearings and other parts.

Term

brake clean

"Cause I know the first time I was building an engine, I sprayed a little brake clean in there and air blast is like, that's all I could do, but I know that's not proper... I generally just throw it through that and then break clean it to victory."

Brake cleaner is a strong cleaner people spray to wipe off oil and grime quickly. It can help during engine building, but you still need to make sure the oil passages are truly clean and sealed.

Part

bore brushes

"Use some bore brushes. And Morosa has a nice engine kit... like Morosa engine brush kit to clean out your cylinder bores..."

Bore brushes are small brushes made to scrub the inside of the engine’s cylinder walls. Cleaning the cylinders helps prevent leftover grit from causing problems later.

Company

Morosa

"And Morosa has a nice engine kit, like very inexpensive on some of it, like Morosa engine brush kit to clean out your cylinder bores..."

Moroso makes performance parts and also tools for engine building. In this segment, they’re mentioned for a kit that helps clean the inside of the cylinders.

Term

main oil galley

"There's like a main oil galley or rifle. One goes the little passage."

The main oil galley is like the engine’s main oil highway. Oil flows through it first, then it gets sent to the parts that need lubrication.

Term

oil cooler

"And that's where the oil cooler feeds in that intersects in a T to a long, a long oil galley or long oil passage on the driver's side of the block."

An oil cooler helps keep engine oil from getting too hot. Cooler oil helps protect bearings and other moving parts.

Term

30 inch brush

"And that's where you need the long, you know, 30 inch brush or so. Or, you know, if you go from each end, you need about 15 inches of brush."

They’re using a very long brush to clean the inside oil channels. This helps remove leftover metal dust so oil can reach the engine parts properly.

Concept

cleaning oil passages to prevent leftover machining debris

"So, yeah, take your time here and getting all you don't want to have old machining particles, metal bits, metal flakes."

When you machine or modify an engine, tiny metal bits can remain inside. Cleaning the oil passages helps prevent those bits from getting into the oil system and damaging parts.

Term

main bearings

"And as you're doing that, there's also oil passages from that to feed the main bearings and then from the main bearings,"

Main bearings are the supports that let the crankshaft spin smoothly. They need oil to stay lubricated, so the oil passages feeding them have to be correct and clean.

Term

cam bearings

"and then from the main bearings, there's little whole passages in the main bearing saddle that also feeds the cam bearings."

Cam bearings help hold the camshaft in place and keep it lubricated. If oil can’t reach them, the cam can wear quickly because it’s not getting enough lubrication.

Term

main cap

"...the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap or the cam journal bearing, bushing, whatever is offset a little bit."

The main cap is part of the engine block that helps hold the crankshaft bearings. If it’s not aligned right, the crankshaft can run with poor support and the oiling can be less effective.

Term

oil bearing

"...people think like, oh my gosh, the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap..."

An oil bearing works like a “floating” surface that’s kept apart by a thin layer of oil. If the oil can’t flow where it needs to, the bearing can wear out faster.

Term

cam journal bearing

"...the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap or the cam journal bearing, bushing, whatever is offset a little bit."

The cam journal bearing is what the camshaft spins on inside the engine. It needs the right oil flow and clearance so the camshaft doesn’t wear out quickly.

Term

hex driver

"...the common spec for that is legitimately just to put a four millimeter hex driver through it and if it fits, you're good."

They’re using a hex tool like a simple measuring stick to check that an oil passage isn’t blocked or too tight. If the tool fits, it suggests the oil can flow properly.

Concept

oil passage alignment vs bearing shell openings

"...even when you put like the main bearings in, you'll notice the holes don't line up... So this is, you maybe see like one of the first pro tips... doesn't mean the hole through the bearing is supposed to be an eighth inch."

People often expect the oil holes in the engine and the bearing to line up exactly. This discussion says that’s not always how it’s designed—what matters is whether the oiling passages meet the build specs and allow flow.

Term

oil holes

"...this is, you maybe see like one of the first pro tips, the oil bearings, just because there's a hole in the block that's an eighth inch, doesn't mean the hole through the bearing is supposed to be an eighth inch."

Oil holes are the channels that send oil to the moving parts. The important takeaway is that the hole you see in the engine block isn’t always the same size as the opening in the bearing itself.

Term

aftermarket bearing manufacturers

"...basically the aftermarket bearing manufacturers have copied the common specifications. Maybe they've made changes as pro builders over the years have suggested things."

Not all bearings are made the same, but many aftermarket brands follow the same oiling and fitment specs that builders trust. If you choose reputable bearings, they’re usually designed to work as intended.

Term

brushes through there

"...And so yeah, I'll run some brushes through there. Get it good and clean."

Running brushes through oil passages is a cleaning step to remove debris and ensure oil can flow freely to bearings. It’s a practical part of preparing an engine for assembly, especially when tolerances and oiling paths are critical.

Term

deburr

"[334.4s] First of all, if your old engine was a performance build and someone staked [339.5s] the oil galley plugs in, make sure that you remove any, like you take a grinder, [345.1s] whatever, and deburr the stakes that they were, they had that way. [348.8s] It doesn't put a score through your oil galley plug cause a leak."

Deburr means smooth out the rough, sharp edges left from grinding or dents. Here, it’s important because rough edges can stop the plug from sealing and can cause oil to leak. Taking the time to deburr helps the new plug fit correctly.

Concept

refresh it

"[360.4s] They think that they're helping them that way. [363.1s] And when you go to refresh it, if those stake marks are there, when you go to [367.6s] pound a new oil galley plug in there, like you said, it'll, it'll cause a leak. [372.3s] We've been there and done that."

In engine-building context, “refresh it” usually means disassembling, inspecting, and reassembling components (often with new parts) to restore reliability. The key point here is that prep work on oil passage sealing surfaces should be done before final cleaning and reassembly. Skipping steps like removing stake marks can turn a “refresh” into a leak problem.

Term

thread chaser kit

"[377.2s] Otherwise you're then now, and something half butt cleaning it again to fix your [381.7s] grinding. I would a hundred percent recommend is get yourself a thread chaser kit. [385.2s] You can go on Amazon again. [386.2s] I'm so cheap for just a cheap one. [388.4s] And just chase every single hole in the block. [391.2s] Then a, if you have a stripped hole, then you can fix it before you've cleaned"

A thread chaser is a tool that cleans up the screw threads in a hole. If threads are a little messed up, the plug may not seat right and could leak. Using a thread chaser helps make sure the new plug goes in smoothly and seals.

Term

file rings

"What about, I mean, you like to file rings before you actually clean the block. I do. I kind of think that's really before I clean, final clean."

“Filing rings” means adjusting the ends of the piston rings so they fit the cylinder with the right gap. The goal is to prevent binding when the engine heats up and to help the rings seal well.

Concept

thread chasing

"There's a few things I like to do first, like you said, go through, check all your threads, make sure that stuff's done. I mean, you're putting rings in and out a whole bunch of times when you're threading them and getting your, set your clearances."

Thread chasing means cleaning up the screw threads so bolts go in smoothly. It helps prevent cross-threading and makes sure parts tighten down evenly.

Term

cylinder wall

"So I'll kind of like wipe down like some break clean, the upper bore of the cylinder wall, and then I'll do my, my rings that way I have that done. And then I can file final clean it."

The cylinder wall is the inside surface of the engine where the piston moves. If it’s dirty or damaged, the rings won’t seal well and the engine can wear out faster.

Term

oil pump passage

"So once again, pro tip on this modification. So there's an inspection begin with, then I would say any modifications, thread chasing you're doing. I like to port the oil pump passage."

The oil pump passage is a pathway oil travels through inside the engine. Porting it means smoothing or enlarging that pathway so oil can move more easily.

Term

porting cylinder heads

"I like to cut those edges back so that I'm, you know, I like porting cylinder heads. So I want my oil system to have the best chance of flow."

Porting is when you reshape the inside passages of the cylinder head. That helps air and fuel move through more easily, which can make the engine breathe better.

Term

oil system

"So I want my oil system to have the best chance of flow. And the most important, in my opinion, is on the suction side to get the flow."

Your oil system is how the engine gets oil to the moving parts. If oil flow or pressure isn’t right, the engine can wear out faster or even fail.

Term

suction side

"And the most important, in my opinion, is on the suction side to get the flow. Cause that's where it'll cavitate and separate on the pressure side."

The suction side is where the oil pump “pulls” oil from the pan. If it can’t pull oil smoothly, you can get air/vapor in the oil, and lubrication suffers.

Term

cavitate

"Cause that's where it'll cavitate and separate on the pressure side. It's going to make another PSI and, and hopefully push through that on the suction side."

Cavitation is when the oil starts to form tiny bubbles because pressure drops too low. Those bubbles can collapse and mess up oil flow, so the engine doesn’t get proper lubrication.

Term

port that

"So I like to port that. So obviously you do that first. Yep."

They’re talking about reshaping or improving the passage paths so oil can move better. The idea is to fix the flow first before moving on to other steps.

Term

oil galley passages

"Some guys like to thread and tap their oil galley passages. They don't like the little pressed in oil galley plugs."

Oil galley passages are the internal channels in the engine block that route oil to bearings and other components. In performance builds, builders may modify these passages to improve flow and reduce restrictions.

Term

thread and tap

"Some guys like to thread and tap their oil galley passages. They don't like the little pressed in oil galley plugs."

Threading and tapping means cutting threads into a hole so a matching bolt or fitting can screw in. In engine oiling work, it’s often used to convert a passage closure from a pressed-in plug to a threaded plug for better control and serviceability.

Term

oil accumulator

"If you're going to run an oil accumulator, some guys run those acu-sum things on like a race truck that has hard deceleration."

An oil accumulator is like a small backup oil tank. It helps keep oil available when the truck is braking hard and oil sloshes away from the pickup.

Term

MPT

"If you need a good half inch MPT or three eighths MPT, three eighths MPT,"

MPT is a type of screw thread used for fittings. Using the right thread size helps the plug or fitting seal correctly so oil doesn’t leak.

Concept

pre modifications

"So yeah. Yeah, it's good. So once you're, once you've kind of done your pre modifications, you know, we're talking about cleaning, brushing and stuff."

Before you start assembling the engine, you do some prep work first. That usually means cleaning and checking the parts so everything fits and works right later.

Term

cleaning, brushing

"So once you're, once you've kind of done your pre modifications, you know, we're talking about cleaning, brushing and stuff. I do cylinder wall preparation quite a bit."

Cleaning and brushing are about removing dirt and leftover debris from the engine parts. This matters because leftover grime can cause wear and problems once the engine is running.

Term

Total Seal ring

"And I put on that total seal ring. That green, the green, it's kind of a graphite type product."

Total Seal ring is a type of piston ring brand. Piston rings sit between the piston and the cylinder wall to keep combustion pressure from leaking out and to help control oil. Using the right ring and installing it correctly helps the engine seal well.

Term

graphite type product

"That green, the green, it's kind of a graphite type product. Yeah. It's a dry product because you kind of insult a little bit WD-40."

They’re talking about a special coating that’s used during engine assembly. It’s meant to reduce friction and protect metal surfaces while you’re putting parts together. The color and texture help them judge whether the right material is present.

Term

WD-40

"It's a dry product because you kind of insult a little bit WD-40. And if it's green, it's good."

WD-40 is a spray product people commonly use for loosening things or light lubrication. In an engine build, it’s usually not the final “right” lubricant for bearings and critical surfaces. The host is saying it’s used a little, but the main idea is the other coating.

Term

main journals

"I'm measuring the, the, uh, rod, the journal, the rod journals, the main journals, the bearings, all that stuff."

Main journals are the crankshaft bearing surfaces that ride in the main bearings. Their condition and size directly affect bearing clearance and oil film thickness. Measuring them helps determine whether the crank needs machining (or bearings need selecting) to achieve the target clearance.

Term

rod journals

"I'm measuring the, the, uh, rod, the journal, the rod journals, the main journals, the bearings, all that stuff."

Rod journals are where the connecting rods attach to the crankshaft. The bearings there need the right tiny clearance so oil can keep everything lubricated. Measuring them helps prevent premature wear.

Term

clearances

"So when we're measuring, this would be a great time to talk about clearances a little bit. So let's just start at the bottom end because that's the bottom of the engine."

Clearances are the small gaps between parts inside the engine. Those gaps matter because they let oil flow and keep metal from rubbing. Getting the clearances right is a big part of building an engine that lasts.

Term

girdle

"So if it has a, if it has a girdle or something fancy, you need to put it like as if it's fully assembled, it's going to take time."

A girdle is an aftermarket or performance reinforcement piece that ties main bearing caps together to improve rigidity. Because it changes how the block and caps behave under torque, it can affect measured bearing clearances. The speaker notes you may need to install it “as if fully assembled” before measuring.

Part

crank journals

"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."

The crank journals are the smooth “riding surfaces” on the crankshaft. Bearings sit on them, and the tiny gap between them controls how well oil can lubricate the engine.

Term

vertical oil clearance

"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."

Oil clearance is the tiny space between the crank and the bearing. “Vertical” just means they’re measuring it in one direction, and the right gap helps oil keep everything from wearing out too fast.

Part

mains

"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."

The mains are the bearings that hold the crankshaft in place inside the engine block. The oil gap there matters because it keeps the crankshaft from rubbing directly on the bearings.

Term

spreadsheet

"And so two parts of that, I, I'm a big believer in just writing down your numbers... if you have a spreadsheet and that way it also does a lot of the math for you."

A spreadsheet is just a structured way to write down measurements. It helps you keep everything organized and do the calculations correctly instead of relying on memory or mental math.

Term

dial board gauge

"...I'll zero it on number one, and then I'll zero my, um, dial board gauge on that same number one."

A dial bore gauge (often called a dial board gauge in casual speech) is a precision measuring tool used to check internal dimensions and clearances. Here it’s being zeroed on a known reference journal and then used to compare other journals for consistent oil clearance.

Concept

diagonal check

"And so then something I do as well is when you got that dial board gauge in there, also do a diagonal check... if the caps offset, you might only have a thou clearance or 10,000 clearance on a diagonal with the vertical being correct."

This is a “double-check” measurement in a different direction. It helps confirm the bearing cap is installed correctly, because a wrong or offset cap can make the gap uneven even if one measurement looks fine.

Term

RPM

"And so you need more room for stuff to move and there's more RPM. And with more power, stuff's going to heat up faster bearings."

RPM means how fast the engine spins. When RPM is higher, the engine parts move faster and heat up more. That can make it harder for oil to keep everything separated, so builders plan for it.

Term

oil film

"And with more power, stuff's going to heat up faster bearings. It is going to push through the oil film and touch the bearing once and while it's going to put more heat there."

The oil film is the thin layer of oil that separates metal surfaces inside an engine bearings. Under high RPM and load, the oil film can thin out; if it fails, the bearing can contact the shaft. This is why clearance and oil viscosity are so important in performance builds.

Term

idle oil pressure

"the downside of that for a guy building a tow truck or street engine, big clearance means when your oil is hot and that idle where your oil pump spinning slow, your idle oil pressure will be lower with big bearing clearance."

Idle oil pressure is how much pressure the oil pump makes when the engine is just idling. If the engine has bigger clearances, oil can escape more, so pressure drops. Lower idle pressure can be a problem for daily driving.

Term

straight 50

"like a 20, 50 or a straight 50. I mean, they're running a much, much thicker viscosity to high viscosity to make up for that very problem."

Straight 50 is an oil that doesn’t change viscosity much with temperature—it stays thick. That thickness can help protect bearings when the engine is hot and running hard. But it can flow poorly when cold, which is why it’s not great for commuting.

Term

20W-50

"Which is why when most people do race engines, the big clearance is running a much heavier oil, thicker oil, like a 20, 50 or a straight 50."

20W-50 is a thicker engine oil grade. Builders use it to keep oil protection strong when the engine is running hard or has bigger clearances. It can be less friendly when the engine is cold, which is why it’s not ideal for everyday driving.

Term

viscosity

"they're running a much, much thicker viscosity to high viscosity to make up for that very problem. It doesn't run as well."

Viscosity is a measure of how thick an oil is and how it flows at different temperatures. Higher-viscosity (thicker) oils can help maintain oil film strength when clearances are larger and oil pressure at idle is lower. The tradeoff is that thicker oil can flow worse when cold, which hurts drivability and lubrication during warm-up.

Concept

race engine vs street truck

"It's one of the reasons you don't put a race engine, your street truck, you don't put a race transmission behind your tow truck."

A race engine is tuned and built for hard use in a controlled way. A street truck has different everyday conditions, so using race-only choices can cause reliability problems.

Concept

build for what you're doing

"Like as always build for what you're doing. Yeah. So then the clearances wise, the loosest I've ever seen on an engine that was running fine was like six thousandths main clearance."

Don’t build a truck for “maximum performance” if it’s meant to tow or drive daily. Parts that work great for racing can wear out faster or behave differently under normal loads.

Term

main clearance

"So then the clearances wise, the loosest I've ever seen on an engine that was running fine was like six thousandths main clearance. Some of those big mega power builds... they like to really loosen up that clearance."

Main clearance is the tiny gap where the crankshaft rides on the main bearings. Getting it right helps the engine stay lubricated and prevents overheating or premature wear.

Concept

mega power builds

"Some of those big mega power builds I see from like Midwest builders, they like to really loosen up that clearance. The tightest I think I've seen... down at two thousandths and it was fine, but it made me nervous."

Some builders chasing huge horsepower change the internal clearances more than you’d see on a normal build. That can help in extreme conditions, but it can also make the engine less forgiving if it’s not set up right.

Term

rod bearings

"Three to four rod bearings. Yep. Three to four on the mains, like kind of like towards the like three to quarter to three and a half."

Rod bearings are the bearings that connect the pistons’ motion to the crankshaft. They need the right fit and oil supply so the engine doesn’t wear out quickly.

Term

HX

"Now, for the guys that don't know, H is an upgraded kind of performance bearing. And then HX means it has an extra thousandth of clearance. Yep. If you use both the upper and lower half, if you only use half of an HX,"

HX is a thicker/looser bearing option that gives you a bit more clearance than the standard H bearing. Builders use it like a dial—choosing HX (or part of it) to get the exact spacing they want inside the engine.

Term

H bearings

"that if you're building an engine that uses H bearings, you have H and HX. You can mix and match. You can put an H on the bottom, HX on the top."

H bearings are special engine bearings that are meant to fit a tighter, more controlled clearance than stock. When you build an engine, that clearance matters because it affects how smoothly the crank moves and how well the engine stays lubricated.

Concept

dial in clearance

"And that way you can really nail your clearance the whole way across the block. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your clearance is like basically spot on where you want them."

“Dial in clearance” describes the process of using measurements and bearing selection to achieve a precise, repeatable clearance target. The episode frames it as predictable and spot-on when you record journal thicknesses and then mix bearing halves (H/HX) to match the desired spacing.

Term

main journal thicknesses

"because you measured all of you measured and recorded all your main galley or main journal thicknesses. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your"

The main journal is the part of the crankshaft that rides on the main bearings. Measuring its thickness helps you pick bearings that create the right tiny gap for proper lubrication.

Term

main galley

"and so, so yeah, you can just like, because you measured all of you measured and recorded all your main galley or main journal thicknesses. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your"

This is about the main bearing area—where the crankshaft sits in the engine. Builders measure the crank’s journal surfaces so they can choose the right bearings and get the correct fit.

Concept

800 horsepower build

"And like, like say, I liked between like three, three, three and three three quarter for like a lower call, like 800 horsepower build. And then you start talking higher, like opening up a little bit, just so"

They’re talking about how engine-building choices can change depending on how much power you’re trying to make. For a big-number build, you may want slightly different clearances so the engine can handle heat and stress.

Concept

non water cooled block (solid block)

"“And maybe on a, on a non water cooled block, like a solid block, you know, and things are moving around, you know, and you have to put it, you know, maybe that's where that would make sense.”"

Most engines use coolant to keep temperatures under control. If a block is described as “solid” or “non water cooled,” it means the usual cooling approach isn’t there, so heat builds differently. That can change how much parts expand, which is why clearances might need different setup in extreme cases.

Concept

sled pull trucks

"“We haven't made top level sled pull trucks either. Both in the Cummins range, which is quite wide.”"

Sled pulling is when a truck tries to pull a heavy sled as hard as it can. The engine is under heavy load for a long time, which can stress it more than normal driving. So engine builders often set up clearances and parts differently for that kind of use.

Brand

Cummins

"“Both in the Cummins range, which is quite wide. You got almost everybody covered in that range.”"

Cummins makes diesel engines that show up in a lot of trucks. When the speaker says “Cummins range,” they mean different Cummins engine types/builds. They’re talking about how much you need to change clearances and parts depending on how hard you’ll use the engine.

Concept

torque the rod bolts down

"“Now, when you check rods, the way you would do that is you would then put the bearing halves in the rod, you would torque the rod bolts down.”"

The bolts that hold the rod cap on have to be tightened to the right spec. If they’re too loose, the bearing can move and wear out; if they’re too tight, the parts can distort or run hot. That’s why builders torque them carefully and usually use new hardware.

Part

rod vice with soft jaws

"“So a lot of people have a nice, like a rod vice that's got soft jaws to clamp the rod because you get some of these aftermarket, you know, performance”"

A rod vice is like a specialized clamp for holding a connecting rod while you work on it. Soft jaws are the cushioned/grippy inserts that hold the rod without scratching or bending it. That helps keep the rod straight and prevents problems later when the engine is assembled.

Part

connecting rods

"rods, it torques 120, 530 foot pounds... That's hard to hold a rod to 130 foot pounds with a big old tank of a torque wrench."

Connecting rods are the parts that connect the pistons to the crankshaft. When you build an engine, how you torque and assemble the rods affects how the bearings sit and how smoothly the crankshaft spins.

Term

torque wrench

"That's hard to hold a rod to 130 foot pounds with a big old tank of a torque wrench."

A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness instead of “by feel.” That matters on engines because the bolts need to be tight enough to hold parts safely, but not so tight that they cause problems.

Term

rod clearance

"measure the clearance... all the journals and sometimes you play musical rod bearings to get your rod clearance."

Rod clearance is the tiny space between the bearing and the crankshaft. The engine needs the right amount of space so oil can get in and keep everything from rubbing directly.

Term

dimple die

"I like to mark on the end either with a dimple die or paint because you can flip the caps around on some rods..."

A dimple die is a tool that makes a small mark on a metal part. Builders use it to keep track of which cap goes with which rod so everything goes back together correctly.

Company

Carillo rod

"You have to be kind of dumb to assemble a waggler rod backwards, but like a Carillo rod, yeah, absolutely. It's just a little dowel thing."

Carrillo makes aftermarket connecting rods. The point being made is that some rods are designed so they only fit together one correct way, and mixing them up can cause poor alignment.

Term

number them one through six

"So I like to mark the rod ends before I go, something I do is I actually number them one through six."

Numbering rods is a way to remember which parts go together. Because each rod and cap can be a little different, labeling helps you put them back exactly the same way.

Term

piston rods

"So I actually write one on both the rod and the cap on the same side with a permanent mark so that, so that I know... you can't put the cap on one rod onto another rod. You need to keep the cap with the rod. It was done because that was put together, torqued and honed to size."

The connecting rod is the part that links the piston to the crankshaft. The rod cap is made to match that specific rod, so you should keep them together—otherwise the fit inside the engine can be slightly wrong.

Concept

keeping matched rod/cap sets together

"And, and anytime I pull that engine out or whatever, another thing you need to know about piston rods, you can't put the cap on one rod onto another rod. You need to keep the cap with the rod... it'll go on there, but it's not going to be round."

Think of the rod cap and rod like a matched pair. Even if you can physically swap them, the fit inside the engine may not be right, which can hurt reliability.

Concept

torqued and honed to size

"You need to keep the cap with the rod. It was done because that was put together, torqued and honed to size."

Some engine parts are assembled with exact torque settings and then finished to the right dimensions. That’s how they get the correct “fit” and clearance—so swapping parts can make the fit too tight or too loose.

Term

serial numbers

"So you'll notice like on your factory Cummins rods, they have serial numbers on the side and that's really the cap and the rod match. So some of the aftermarket doesn't."

Some factory parts are marked so you can tell which pieces belong together. If the rod and cap are a matched set, the serial numbers help you keep them paired correctly.

Term

pin clearance

"Now, to be technically correct, you should also measure the pin clearance, which is especially important if you're doing factory rods and someone reconditioned them... generally you want to stay in that, I'd say thousandth to down half range is pretty normal pin clearance"

Pin clearance is the tiny space between the piston’s pin and the rod’s bushing. It needs to be just right: too tight and it can stick when the engine gets hot, too loose and it can rattle or wear faster. That’s why people measure it before final assembly.

Term

connecting-rod bushing

"...especially important if you're doing factory rods and someone reconditioned them... put a... in the, the pin bushing and, and that now pin clearance is it's a wider topic."

A connecting-rod bushing is the bearing surface inside the rod that the wrist pin rides in (common in many rebuilds). When rods are reconditioned, the bushing may be replaced or resized, which directly affects pin clearance. Correct bushing fit and measurement are essential for durability and quiet operation.

Concept

clearance trade-off (heat expansion vs noise/wear)

"...you can go as tight... I would not recommend somebody go less than a thousandth... you get 2000s when it's cold, you might actually get a little bit of a slop or almost like a rod knock noise."

The segment describes a clearance trade-off: tighter clearances reduce slop and noise, but they risk interference when parts expand with heat. Looser clearances avoid binding but can increase cold slop and contribute to knock-like noises and wear. Engine builders tune clearances based on the intended use (street vs race) and operating temperatures.

Term

rod knock noise

"...the problem is you get 2000s when it's cold, you might actually get a little bit of a slop or almost like a rod knock noise."

Rod knock noise is a knocking sound from the engine bottom end. It can happen when parts have too much looseness, especially when the engine is cold. If you hear it, it often means the clearances aren’t right.

Term

piston-to-wall clearance

"We talked about clearance, um, part of your, your checking and clearance, you're going to want to check your piston to wall clearance."

This is the tiny space between the piston and the cylinder wall. If the gap is too tight, the piston can rub and overheat; if it’s too loose, you can get extra wear and poor performance. Machinists measure it so the engine fits correctly once it’s hot.

Concept

trust, but verify

"Hopefully you told the machine shop what you wanted there, but we should hit on that a little bit, trust, but verify."

It means you shouldn’t just assume everything is correct—you should double-check the important measurements. In engine building, a small mistake can lead to big damage, so verifying helps you catch problems early.

Term

piston skirt

"Like if we're machining the block, this is the way you do it is you, you measure the skirt of the piston."

The piston skirt is the part of the piston that slides along the cylinder wall. Since it’s the part that actually fits inside the cylinder, measuring it helps you confirm the engine has the right clearance. That’s important to prevent rubbing and excessive wear.

Term

oblong

"If you look at a piston, it is, it's a big taper. It's oblong and it's tapered all the way up."

An “oblong” piston isn’t perfectly round like a circle. It’s shaped so the fit and clearance are right in different directions. That’s why you can’t just measure one spot and assume everything is fine.

Term

piston taper

"If you look at a piston, it is, it's a big taper. It's oblong and it's tapered all the way up."

Pistons aren’t perfectly the same thickness from top to bottom—they’re shaped with a taper. That means the gap to the cylinder changes depending on where you measure. Measuring the right spot gives the most accurate clearance.

Brand

Molly piston

"And if you look at like a coated skirt, like a Molly piston, they have a little window right there, right where they want you to measure."

A “Molly piston” usually means the piston skirt has a special coating to help it slide smoothly and resist wear. When you measure it, you want to avoid scratching that coating. That’s why some pistons have a marked area for measurement.

Term

dial bore gauge

"And then you zero a set of dial or gauge on it and then you go in your bore... Yeah, I mean, a new, a new, uh, any modern machine shop should have zero problem getting, I mean, so tight, you can't measure it with a normal thousand dial bore gauge."

A dial bore gauge is a tool machinists use to measure the inside of an engine cylinder. It’s accurate enough to spot tiny differences between cylinders.

Concept

factory specs

"And there's factory specs. And I wish I could cite them off the bat. I want to say like it's kind of, there's a factory spec for how oblong and how much taper you can have."

Factory specs are the “allowed limits” for how accurate the cylinder and parts need to be. If you’re outside those limits, the engine may not run right or may wear out faster.

Term

thousandths

"same, like it's freaking sweet, but yeah, like, I want to say it's like two thousands of taper and was it like a thou or something of oblong or something... I think the minimum is around four thousandths, piston to wall clearance might even be on some of the newcomers might be like three and eight tenths or something just under four."

Thousandths are tiny measurements—like thousandths of an inch. Engine builders use them to set the small gaps that control how well the piston seals and how safely it runs when hot.

Company

Quick Serve

"like that quick serve comes quick serve has all those specs. I don't remember them off the bat, but just some general thumb, a stock, I think the minimum is around four thousandths"

Quick Serve is referenced as a source for engine specifications. In practice, builders use manufacturer spec databases to confirm acceptable clearances, tolerances, and service limits before machining or assembling an engine.

Term

ring rock

"And honestly, the tighter the better, as far as longevity, there's less ring rock and whatnot, but at the same time, if you have any kind of a tone or a chip or anything, don't go on that bottom minimum spec."

Ring rock is when the piston rings don’t stay flat against the cylinder wall as well as they should. When that happens, the rings seal worse and the engine can wear faster.

Concept

clearance trade-off (too tight vs too loose)

"there's age long saying that like you make it too loose and you'll know, but you make it too tight and everyone will know it's too loose... like blow by whatever you make it too tight."

This segment highlights a key engine-building trade-off: tighter clearances can reduce wear and blow-by, but too-tight clearances risk rubbing/scuffing from thermal expansion or minor damage. Too-loose clearances can increase noise and blow-by, reducing longevity.

Concept

piston-to-cylinder clearance

"And so, you know, we'll make our, our, like our 800 horse block... Every engine I've ever pulled apart that like serious scuffing was a result of two tight pissed in a wall... So if you, if you need the clearance, I'd rather be on, I'd rather air on the big side than the small, because if you're a little bit small, it may not ruin your engine, but you'll scuff your cylinder walls."

This is the tiny space between the piston and the cylinder wall. If the gap is too tight, the piston can rub when everything heats up. If the gap is too loose, the rings don’t seal as well, so gases leak past (blow-by) and the engine loses efficiency.

Term

ring sale

"It's a better ring sale. So if you need the clearance... you'll scuff your cylinder walls. You have worse ring sale."

This sounds like they mean “ring seal,” which is how well the piston rings seal the gap between the piston and cylinder. If the seal isn’t good, gases leak past and the engine loses compression. That can also increase blow-by and make the engine less efficient.

Concept

combustion pressure containment

"You have more blow by you'll still drive and you can feel good that you have tight clearance and know that you have crappy combustion pressure containment."

This means keeping the engine’s combustion pressure from leaking out. If the piston rings don’t seal well, some pressure escapes, and the engine can’t make as much power. Good containment usually means better ring sealing.

Term

pissed in a wall clearance

"What I do is let's say I have eight thousandths pissed in a wall. I'll do that on two through four... And then six will be like eight point four, eight point five... But we get people all the time asked, pissed in a wall clearance."

This is about how much space there is between the piston and the cylinder wall. When the engine gets hot, the piston grows, so you need the right gap so it doesn’t rub and scuff. The speaker is saying they set that gap differently depending on which cylinder runs hotter.

Concept

dial that in when you have your own machines and equipment

"So we kind of like pro level stuff there, but like you can, you can dial that in when you have your own machines and equipment."

They’re saying the exact fitment depends on having the right tools to measure and machine accurately. Without good equipment, it’s harder to get the clearances “just right.”

Term

scuff

"Some guy was like, Oh, you, he's like, you don't have a cool and bypass on your, on your tow truck. He's like, you're going to scuff number six."

Scuffing is when metal starts rubbing and gets scratched or damaged. It usually happens when parts are too tight or not lubricated well enough. The speaker is trying to predict which cylinder is most likely to rub first.

Term

cool and bypass

"Some guy was like, Oh, you, he's like, you don't have a cool and bypass on your, on your tow truck. He's like, you're going to scuff number six."

This sounds like a setup meant to help keep things cool and to route fluid where it’s needed. If you don’t have enough cooling or the right flow path, one cylinder can run hotter and be more likely to rub and get damaged.

Concept

cylinder-to-cylinder bore variation (number six bigger)

"We make number six cylinder a little bit bigger because we've learned that... So if they need eight on two, three and four, they need more than eight on number six."

The host describes intentionally making cylinder #6 slightly larger based on learned behavior, implying real-world manufacturing or distortion differences between cylinders. In practice, some blocks may require cylinder-specific machining targets to achieve the desired piston-to-wall clearance and consistent performance. This is why they provide a range of block dimensions rather than assuming every cylinder is identical.

Concept

torque plate

"Now the sticky point when you measure pissed in a wall clearance, if your block was torque plate owned and it's a 12 valve, once the torque plate comes off, it's not going to measure round."

When a cylinder block is tightened down, it flexes a little. A torque plate is a tool that bolts onto the block so the shop can bore/hone the cylinders while the block is under the same kind of pressure the head would create. That helps the cylinders stay the right shape once everything is assembled.

Term

12 valve

"...if your block was torque plate owned and it's a 12 valve, once the torque plate comes off, it's not going to measure round."

A “12-valve” engine has a cylinder head design with 12 total valves. It’s a common way people identify certain Cummins diesel generations. Different head designs can affect how the block behaves when clamped, which is why machining checks matter.

Term

deck (deck surface)

"...you measure, so at the top of the bores where the deck, the, the torque plate is the most where it's going to be pulling."

The deck is the top surface of the engine block where the head bolts on. The clamping force is strongest near that area, so the cylinder shape can be slightly different there. Measuring near the top helps confirm the bore is correct.

Concept

end gap / clearance measurement (within spec)

"That's why you use a 10 or what our seven, like it's pretty stiff and it doesn't want to flex around the piston because you're firing it to contour to the piston and it's just a good, like a dummy proof... And just make sure you're in the ballpark."

Engine builders measure tiny gaps very carefully. Even a small mistake can cause the parts to rub or not seal correctly once the engine heats up. That’s why they aim to match the manufacturer’s clearance specs.

Term

piston ring clearance

"Cause we should move on a little bit from, we've talked about rings, piston, wall clearance. I'm talking about piston ring clearance. Piston ring clearance is another thing that really bites you."

The piston rings have a tiny gap when they’re put into the cylinder. That gap matters because the engine gets hot and parts expand. If the gap is too small, the rings can jam and cause problems instead of sealing properly.

Term

piston wall clearance

"Cause we should move on a little bit from, we've talked about rings, piston, wall clearance. I'm talking about piston ring clearance."

This is the space between the piston and the cylinder wall. The engine needs enough room for the piston to move, especially as everything heats up. If it’s too tight, parts can rub; if it’s too loose, the engine may not seal as well.

Term

ring squaring tool

"So when you put the ring in and you can either have a ring squaring tool. When that Todd and I started power driven, he had all these nice ring squaring tools."

When you measure a piston ring’s gap, you want the ring to sit straight in the cylinder. A ring squaring tool helps hold it in the correct position so your measurement is accurate. That way you don’t accidentally think the gap is wrong when it’s just the ring sitting crooked.

Term

feeler gauge

"...use the squaring tool and it takes it about an inch down on the bore. And then you can put a feeler gauge and you're checking the end gap on the ring."

A feeler gauge is basically a set of very thin metal strips. You slide the right thickness strip into the gap to see how much clearance you actually have.

Concept

top ring clearance for more power (heat expansion)

"So top ring, as you get more power, there's more heat. You need more clearance on the top ring."

The top ring gets the hottest because it’s closest to the combustion. If you make more power, it runs even hotter, so you need a bit more clearance so the ring doesn’t get stuck or scuff.

Concept

blow-by

"I've taken apart stock 12 valves with that ran great. No blow by that you really noticed or anything on them... And it blow by and huffed and there's a huge ring ridge at the top."

Blow-by is when hot combustion gases sneak past the piston rings instead of staying in the cylinder. When that happens, the engine can lose efficiency and you may notice extra crankcase pressure or “huffing.”

Term

ring ridge

"...the top ring was so worn and gone, the ring gap was like... like a quarter inch... And it blow by and huffed and there's a huge ring ridge at the top."

A ring ridge is like a little step in the cylinder wall caused by wear and carbon buildup. If it gets big, the rings can’t seal as well, so the engine may start leaking gases past the rings.

Concept

"eating dirt" (abrasive wear from contamination)

"And it blow by and huffed and there's a huge ring ridge at the top. So it's eating dirt."

“Eating dirt” means the engine is getting gritty particles inside. That grit acts like sandpaper, wearing the rings and cylinder faster than normal.

Term

second ring

"The second ring has less heat, so technically it doesn't need as much gap."

The “second ring” is the lower compression ring that works with the top ring to improve sealing and manage heat. The transcript highlights a key tradeoff: the second ring typically runs cooler (so it may need less gap), but in certain conditions trapped gas can still affect top-ring stability at high RPM.

Term

gapless ring

"...If you're not running the gapless ring, or even if you are, I still do it bigger."

A “gapless ring” is a piston ring design intended to reduce or eliminate the end gap that would otherwise allow combustion gases to leak. Builders still discuss clearances because even gapless designs can behave differently under heat, and ring stability at high RPM remains a concern.

Concept

top ring flutter/unseat

"...in high RPM engines, if gas gets trapped between the top ring and the second ring, it can make the top ring flutter and unseat."

“Top ring flutter and unseat” describes a failure mode where the top compression ring loses contact with the cylinder wall at high RPM. The transcript explains one cause: gas trapped between the top ring and second ring can disturb the top ring’s stability, reducing sealing and potentially accelerating wear.

Term

ring orientation

"But so it's kind of like, but you talk to three different engine millers, they're all totally different theories there. Without ring orientation, as you put them in the gaps, you don't win the gaps up top to bottom."

Ring orientation means how you rotate the rings when installing them. Even if the rings are the right size, where the gaps and markings end up can change how the engine seals and controls oil.

Term

injection pump

"So I'll put the, the top ring towards the injection pump. I'll put the middle ring the other way."

The injection pump is what sends fuel into the engine at the right time and pressure. The host is using it as a reference direction for how to point the piston rings during installation.

Part

middle ring

"I'll put the middle ring the other way. So towards the Peter core and then the exhaust span folder, whatever."

The middle ring is the ring between the top compression ring and the oil ring. It helps seal combustion gases, and the way it’s installed (which way it faces) can affect performance.

Term

alternator

"Then the oil ring, I'll put that towards like the alternator. So like 90 degrees out."

The alternator makes electricity to run the vehicle and charge the battery. In this conversation, it’s just a “pointing direction” reference for ring installation.

Concept

first fire

"So the idea for me is just like that first fire won't have a straight shot where something can cause a problem, probably."

“First fire” is the first time you start the engine after rebuilding it. It’s a sensitive moment because parts are new and need to seat correctly, so you want to avoid anything that could cause trouble right away.

Concept

piston ring expansion with heat

"So it's not as critical as people think it is because they do move."

As the engine heats up, piston rings get hotter and expand. The ring gap is set so they can expand without getting stuck or damaged, while still sealing well.

Concept

common rail

"Go just you talk about ring gap on a 12 valve ring gap on a common rail."

Common-rail is a diesel fuel system that keeps fuel under high pressure and sends it to the injectors on command. That more precise fueling can change how hot the engine runs, which affects ring and piston decisions.

Concept

fuel-only sled pulling / long pulls

"Like if you plan on beating the crap out of it, this is like, something you just want to be able to sled pull where you're doing a long pulls, you're doing fuel only stuff."

Fuel-only sled pulling means you’re working the engine hard for a long time without switching to other power adders. Long, heavy pulls make the engine run hotter on average, so setup choices like ring gap matter.

Concept

drag racing with nitrous

"drag racing with nitrous, making four more hundred horsepower, 1,700 degrees, like depending on what you're doing with the engine, it's going to change what you should do with your rings."

Nitrous oxide increases the oxygen available for combustion, which can raise cylinder pressures and temperatures quickly. That changes the thermal and mechanical stress environment, so ring gap and other build choices may need to be different for nitrous-assisted drag racing versus towing or fuel-only pulls.

Concept

tow truck duty cycle (long grade pulls)

"But just as a reference, like kind of your same thing you said with 12 valve, like my tow trucks at like 26, I believe on the top, that's fine... I pull grades for a good power for quite a long time."

The speaker contrasts performance builds with tow-truck use, where the engine may spend long periods under load (like pulling grades). That sustained heat and load profile can justify different ring gap targets—potentially looser than a race-only setup—because the goal is durability and consistent power.

Term

forge piston

"...nine to 10,000 should be just fine for piston to wall for basically a lot of the engines, unless you have a forge piston. Um, and for that, I would be in that 30, 32,000 ring gap range..."

A “forge piston” is made by forging (compressing metal under pressure) rather than casting. Forged pistons are typically stronger and better suited for higher stress and heat, but they often require different clearances and ring gap targets than stock-style pistons.

Term

overrings

"...I bought another set of rings, like same story, 40, 45, 48. And I'm like, well, so I bought 20 overrings and you have to grind the"

This sounds like using bigger or different rings to fix a fitment problem. If the rings don’t match the cylinder/piston setup, you may need a different ring size so they seal correctly and don’t bind.

Term

piston rings

"And you, you don't like that you're going to drop these rings in at 35. You can buy a 20 over ring set. You have to do a lot of grinding."

Piston rings sit on the piston and help seal the combustion chamber. They also help keep oil from getting into the cylinders where it shouldn’t be.

Term

oil control ring

"Um, and then on the bottom ring, it's a good idea to just double check it and make sure I always go for a 10,000 oil control ring. Yep. Pull that little spring ring out of it."

The oil control ring’s job is to keep extra oil from being burned in the engine. It helps scrape oil off the cylinder walls and send it back where it belongs.

Concept

ring end gap tuning (thou ranges)

"Generally they're all in that 10, 15, 20, thou range, but on a stockish motor, I'd make them 10 on a bigger motor. I'll do 15. I don't think it matters, but it makes me feel a little bit safer."

When you install piston rings, you don’t just put them in—you set the tiny gap at the ring ends. That gap can change depending on how hot and hard the engine will run.

Company

Junker

"“...we just put in one of the stock oil control rings and it was the Junker. That's the motor you just needed.”"

“Junker” sounds like a nickname for the engine build they were working on. They’re saying the right ring choice was what that motor needed.

Company

Sealed Power rings

"“...I looked and I think there's like some sealed power rings from like auto zone...”"

Sealed Power makes piston rings that you can buy aftermarket. The host is saying they considered those rings because they were available and cheaper than the exact replacement they needed.

Company

AutoZone

"“...sealed power rings from like auto zone, and it was like $38 for one ring.”"

AutoZone is a place you can buy car parts over the counter. They’re mentioning it because they found ring options there and were thinking about using one.

Part

oil ring

"Well, I didn't know how to like, and I broke, I broke one. So now I needed two when I was like trying to install them. And so I ended up putting one set of sealed power oil ring, one used oil ring."

Oil rings are small metal rings on the piston that help control oil inside the engine. They keep too much oil from getting into the combustion area. If they’re installed wrong or mismatched, you can get oil consumption or poor sealing.

Part

keystone ring

"Total seal recently made a keystone ring. So the side profile looks like a keystone, which is what a lot of these factory style rings are."

A keystone ring is a piston ring with a special shape. That shape helps the ring press against the cylinder wall more consistently. Better contact usually means better sealing and less leakage past the rings.

Part

gapless second

"And they have kind of like two different options. They have one that comes with a gapless second and one that comes like a conventional second."

“Gapless second” describes a piston ring setup designed to reduce the small opening (gap) at the ring ends. Less gap means fewer combustion gases can sneak past the ring. That helps the engine seal better and can reduce blow-by.

Concept

butted rings

"Years ago, Todd had an engine that we'd built that we were too tight and it had butted the rings. And the second ring caught all of that combustion pressure and it ripped the aluminum ring groove off..."

Piston rings need a little end gap so they can expand when the engine heats up. If the gap is wrong and the ring ends “butt” together, the ring can get forced out of shape or break. That can quickly ruin the sealing and damage the piston area.

Term

aluminum ring groove

"...and it had butted the rings. And the second ring caught all of that combustion pressure and it ripped the aluminum ring groove off and actually crashed the middle ring into the oil ring..."

The piston has channels (grooves) where the piston rings sit. If the rings don’t seal correctly or get damaged, the pressure can hammer those grooves and break them. Once the groove is damaged, the rings can’t work properly anymore.

Concept

2000 horsepower engine build (high-power ring sealing risk)

"I'm a little concerned. Let's say I was building a 2000 horsepower engine with cast pistons... I do question if that gapless second in the case where the top ring flutters... will it catch too much of that combustion and potentially make the piston fail."

When you push an engine to very high power, the piston rings have to seal perfectly. If something goes wrong—like the top ring not staying tight—combustion pressure can end up stressing the piston in the wrong way. That’s why they’re cautious about the gapless ring in certain scenarios.

Term

cast pistons

"Let's say I was building a 2000 horsepower engine with cast pistons because Myra tells us their factory race pistons."

Cast pistons are made by pouring metal into a mold. They’re common in many engines, but in very high-power builds the stresses can be extreme. The hosts are basically saying piston strength and ring behavior have to match the power level.

Concept

ring flutter / loss of ring tension

"I do question if that gapless second in the case where the top ring flutters or loses tension or whatever, will it catch too much of that combustion and potentially make the piston fail."

At very high RPM or with extreme cylinder pressure, piston rings can stop sealing the cylinder the way they should. If the ring doesn’t stay pressed against the cylinder, combustion pressure can get past it and the ring can get damaged. That’s what they’re warning about with the gapless second ring.

Term

lock tight

"Let's talk about like, I mean, lock tight. ... So yeah, there's three lock tight or four lock tights. ... red is like high temp, high strength ... blue ... green ..."

Locktite (threadlocker) is an adhesive used on fasteners to prevent them from loosening due to vibration. Different colors/grades indicate different strength and temperature ranges, and they’re chosen based on whether you want a removable or “won’t come apart again” joint. In engine builds, using the correct threadlocker on the right bolts helps maintain clamp load over time.

Term

oil galley passage plugs

"The the oil, galley, passage, rifle, those are thing plugs. Like what do you just put those in dry? Like what do we do on this?"

Oil passages are the internal tubes that feed oil to the engine’s moving parts. Plugs close off those passages, and they need to be installed the right way so oil doesn’t leak or block flow. The “dry vs sealed” question is about preventing leaks.

Concept

building an engine correctly (threadlocker/assembly best practices)

"I believe if you're building an engine and to do it correctly, you need them. You need a red ... If you never want to mess with that bolt again, then a blue lock tight ... And then you got green lock ..."

The segment emphasizes assembly best practices—specifically using the right threadlocker grade and applying it intentionally so bolts maintain clamp load under heat and vibration. This is part of “building it right” because incorrect fastener retention can lead to loosening, leaks, and secondary damage. It’s a practical reliability concept rather than a single tool.

Term

thread sealant

"[2588.7s] And then you have your five forty five, which is like a purple lock tight, [2591.9s] which is a thread sealant. [2593.0s] And that's what we'd put on any tapered fitting, like a eighth inch"

Thread sealant is a sealant you put on the threads so fluids don’t leak where the fitting screws in. It’s especially important on fittings that don’t have a rubber gasket (O-ring).

Term

Locktite (threadlocker)

"[2588.7s] And then you have your five forty five, which is like a purple lock tight, [2591.9s] which is a thread sealant. [2609.7s] That's not going to see a lot of force, a lot of RPM. [2612.2s] I would use blue mostly throughout all the hardware."

Locktite (threadlocker) refers to anaerobic adhesives used to keep threaded fasteners from loosening due to vibration. The speaker differentiates between types/colors (e.g., a thread sealant vs. a threadlocker) and uses them based on fitting type and expected loads/RPM.

Term

tapered fitting

"[2593.0s] And that's what we'd put on any tapered fitting, like a eighth inch [2596.1s] amputee plug on the side of the block or like your, your coolant plugs on the head [2602.3s] If it's a tapered fitting that doesn't use an O-ring by forty five."

A tapered fitting is a connection where the mating surfaces are angled so they tighten as they’re threaded together. The speaker notes that tapered fittings that don’t use an O-ring should be sealed with thread sealant, because the seal relies on the interface between the threads and surfaces.

Term

O-ring

"[2596.1s] amputee plug on the side of the block or like your, your coolant plugs on the head [2601.8s] and stuff. [2602.3s] If it's a tapered fitting that doesn't use an O-ring by forty five."

An O-ring is a small rubber ring that helps stop leaks between two metal parts. If a fitting doesn’t use an O-ring, you usually need another way to seal it—like thread sealant.

Concept

high-horsepower diesel build reliability (fasteners/drivetrain)

"[2627.2s] If it is a call it up eight hundred horsepower motor or above, I would just [2632.1s] red lock tight the whole thing because you start getting like five thousand [2635.5s] RPM, things want to come loose, stuff vibrates and shakes. [2639.1s] I remember like my, my OG, the, the shorties engine, which that thing was [2643.3s] an absolute champion. [2647.1s] only issues I ever had as I snapped input shafts and I bolts rattled"

This segment ties together two common high-power failure modes: fasteners loosening from vibration and drivetrain components failing from extreme torque/shock. The speaker’s examples (threadlocking strategy and snapped input shafts) reflect how builders prioritize retention and strength when chasing very high output.

Term

input shafts snapping

"[2643.3s] It's like the thousand horse truck that everyone wished they had because the [2647.1s] only issues I ever had as I snapped input shafts and I bolts rattled"

Input shafts are the transmission-side shafts that receive torque from the engine and transfer it into the drivetrain. When they “snap,” it usually indicates the drivetrain saw torque loads beyond what the shafts (or related components) could handle, often due to power level, shock loading, or insufficient strength.

Concept

high-power "thousand horse" engine

"lock tight because like the blue failed on you on a thousand horse engine. ... Like it was such a legendary engine that never had any issues. It had 10,000 piston wall and 32,000 top ring gap."

“Thousand horse” means the engine is making about 1,000 horsepower, which is extremely powerful. When you push that hard, small problems—like a bolt loosening or a seal not sealing—can become big failures. The speaker is saying their example engine handled that stress well.

Term

coolant leaked

"And the, I had a coolant leaked because the alternator bracket. That's also the coolant, like the AC bracket that also seals the bottom lower neck, it came loose and started to drip. And so I had to, you know, take everything apart and retight, retighten the bolts and everything, put it back together."

A coolant leak means the engine’s antifreeze is escaping somewhere it shouldn’t. That can happen if a seal or gasket isn’t tight enough or a bracket loosens. The speaker had to take things apart and re-tighten to stop the leak.

Term

catch can

"It didn't like have like any blow by. It didn't have like a, the catch can did not drain itself. So every time I do an oil change, I would drain it and I had like maybe two tablespoons of oil in it every time."

A catch can is a small device that traps oily vapors so they don’t get sucked into the intake. If it doesn’t drain on its own, oil builds up inside. The speaker says they had to empty it every oil change because it only had a small amount each time.

Term

torque spec

"And yeah, that's where I learned like, yep, torque spec. The factory torque spec is a little low. I try to go up to like most of those bolts are like 18. I'll do like 20, 22."

Torque spec is the “tighten it to this amount” number for bolts. If you don’t tighten enough, parts can loosen and leak; if you tighten too much, you can damage threads or stretch bolts. The host is saying the factory numbers might be a little low for their build, so they tighten some bolts a bit more.

Term

red out

"And then if you're talking about 5,000 RPM red, that's be real. Like you can get red out. Like people think like, oh my gosh, red's permanent."

“Red out” means revving the engine up into the redline area. Some people think touching redline always ruins the engine, but the speaker is saying that’s not necessarily true if the engine is built and running correctly. It’s basically about how you use the RPM range.

Car

Cummins engine

"You're never going to get that out again. It comes out. It's easy. It's they'll come out, but basically over 800 horse recommend you go to red."

They’re talking about working on a Cummins diesel engine. The point is to assemble it carefully so parts don’t loosen or leak once the engine is running.

Term

gear case bolts

"So like all those gear case bolts on the front. Oil pump bolts, the cam bolts, oil pump bolts are long enough."

Gear case bolts are bolts that hold the front gear-case cover/assembly in place. Getting the right bolts helps keep the timing/drive components secure.

Term

oil pump bolts

"So like all those gear case bolts on the front. Oil pump bolts, the cam bolts, oil pump bolts are long enough. I don't actually usually you're skipping."

Oil pump bolts fasten the oil pump to the engine so it can generate and maintain oil pressure. The segment emphasizes that bolt length and correct fit are important—short or mismatched bolts can lead to poor clamping and eventual problems.

Term

cam bolts

"So like all those gear case bolts on the front. Oil pump bolts, the cam bolts, oil pump bolts are long enough. I don't actually usually you're skipping."

Cam bolts are bolts that hold parts of the camshaft/timing system in place. Using the correct bolts and lengths helps prevent the timing parts from shifting or loosening.

Term

M8 bolt

"It's the bolts that are shorter. Like if it's M8 bolt, less than an inch, it doesn't like say it doesn't have the ability to do shock absorber."

M8 is a way of describing bolt size in millimeters. They’re saying smaller/shorter M8 bolts may not have enough engagement, so they can be more prone to problems.

Term

billet freeze plugs

"So a lot of people think that billet freeze plugs are gimmick or a dress up item and they do look nice. They've been made look nice. They're 100% necessary on a elevated power level Cummins because you're going to turn more RPM."

Freeze plugs are little seals in the engine block that keep coolant where it belongs. When an engine is built to make more power, the pressure and heat can be harder on those seals. Billet freeze plugs are stronger replacements meant to reduce the chance of them popping out.

Term

dyno tune

"And then we were going to dyno tune it for him. We put it on the dyno and it wasn't like it was wet still. I mean, this engine had been built for weeks and put on the dyno, did a couple of passes and it blew the rear one out."

A dyno tune is calibrating the engine’s fuel/air delivery and boost control on a dynamometer to match the engine’s actual behavior under load. The host mentions putting the built engine on the dyno, running a couple of passes, and then seeing a failure (a rear freeze plug blowing out). This illustrates why dyno testing can reveal sealing and cooling issues before the vehicle is driven.

Concept

preventative reliability upgrades

"So we ended up just replacing them all in frame with billet ones just because I didn't want to have that issue. And it's like, that was a sucky issue to have on the dyno. That'd be an even worse issue to have going down the road, especially towing something."

Preventative upgrades mean you replace or strengthen parts that are likely to fail later, even if they haven’t failed yet. The host saw a freeze plug problem during testing, so they changed the setup to avoid the same issue on the road—especially while towing. It’s basically “fix the weak spot now so you don’t get stranded later.”

Term

RTV

"So I always just RTV them as well... That way you just know if there's any like rust pitting... possibly cause a leak, just glue it up."

RTV is a silicone sealant you apply during assembly. It helps fill tiny gaps so fluids don’t leak. In this case, it’s used to help the freeze plug seal better.

Term

assembly lube

"We didn't talk at all about assembly lube. We've used many over the years."

Assembly lube is grease you put on engine parts during building. It protects them right away during the first moments of startup. That way, they don’t run dry while the oil system is filling.

Company

Joe Gibbs

"The one thing I feel like is worth buying. I like that, that Joe Gibbs, that driven assembly grease for cams and tappets."

Joe Gibbs is a brand that makes performance lubricants. The speaker likes their grease for cam and tappet surfaces because it helps protect those parts during assembly and break-in. It’s about using the right lube for the job.

Term

flat tappets

"Yeah, flat tappets. Flat tappet."

Flat tappets are a type of cam/lifter setup in an engine. They need the right lubrication so the surfaces don’t wear too fast, especially during the first start and break-in. That’s why the speaker recommends specific assembly grease for cams and tappets.

Term

factory block

"There was a steel cam in a factory block and it was already ran another engine. So it might've kind of had a little rough surface finish."

A factory block is the standard engine block that came from the manufacturer. Even with a stock block, the rest of the engine parts and setup still have to be done correctly to prevent problems.

Term

steel cam

"There was a steel cam in a factory block and it was already ran another engine. So it might've kind of had a little rough surface finish."

A steel camshaft is just the camshaft made from steel. Even though steel is tough, it still needs the right oil and proper break-in so it doesn’t wear out too fast.

Concept

surface finish

"So it might've kind of had a little rough surface finish. I don't know. Park raising. Nice."

Surface finish means how smooth the metal is at a tiny scale. If it’s rough, parts can rub harder and wear faster, particularly when the engine is new or just rebuilt.

Term

cracked

"But yeah, that one of yours that cracked too. Oh, yeah. That was that was yours."

If something “cracked,” it means it split or broke due to stress or heat. In an engine, cracks can happen if parts weren’t set up right or if the engine ran too hot.

Term

assembly grease

"But yeah, like they say assembly grease is definitely. I like it a lot. We have like the Joe Gibbs talking about driven."

Assembly grease is a special grease you put on engine parts during building. It helps protect things until the engine’s oil system is running and pumping oil.

Concept

engine assembly lubrication (pre-oil-pressure protection)

"But yeah, like they say assembly grease is definitely... I used it when I put this engine together and I pulled the oil pump out the other day to inspect it..."

When you build an engine, you have to protect parts before the engine’s oil system is working. Using the right grease and then checking components helps you catch problems early.

Term

lithium

"Anyway, there's a lithium, a white, a white engine assembly grease, which I've seen different people use."

Lithium is the type of thickener used in some greases. Grease can be made with different bases, and the right one matters when you’re assembling an engine.

Company

Lucas

"I've used the, the red, I don't know if it's from Lucas. Oh, the Lucas is kind of like, like a oil colored kind of a gold color, but we've also used that red."

Lucas is a company that makes lubricants and engine-related products. The host is saying they’ve used Lucas products for assembly lubrication with no problems.

Company

Permatex

"The red snot. Yeah, the red snot. It's Permatex. I'm pretty sure. Permatex. I've used that."

Permatex makes products used in car repair and engine building. The host is saying they’ve used Permatex’s red lubricant/grease during assembly and it worked fine.

Term

engine oil

"And so engine oil, I don't do that. I use a squirter can, but I try to make it so where you can't tell what I did."

Engine oil is what keeps the inside of the engine from grinding. For a fresh build, it’s especially important to get oil onto key parts so they don’t scrape before everything is fully lubricated.

Term

oil coat

"And then just sit there and spin, spin, spin oil coat on. Cause like when it's dry, you can feel like there's like some scratching."

An oil coat is a light layer of oil that protects parts from rubbing dry. Spinning after applying oil helps spread that layer so everything moves smoothly.

Part

camshaft

"So camshaft, all the journals, all the lobes, you don't like go crazy. [3157.4s] I don't use gloves."

The camshaft is the engine’s timing “controller” for the valves. Lubing it during assembly helps prevent damage before the oil system is fully working.

Term

lobes

"So camshaft, all the journals, all the lobes, you don't like go crazy. [3157.4s] I don't use gloves."

Cam lobes are the “bumps” on the camshaft that push the valves open. Lubing them during assembly helps prevent damage before the engine starts.

Concept

initial start-up protection (assembly lubrication)

"So camshaft, all the journals, all the lobes, you don't like go crazy. [3157.4s] I don't use gloves... [3170.0s] You can just dunk it in a bucket of loob."

When you first start an engine, it takes a moment for oil pressure to build. Assembly lubrication is meant to protect the important moving parts during that brief time.

Term

bucket of lube

"[3168.6s] So cut the camp. [3169.8s] Okay. [3170.0s] You can just dunk it in a bucket of loob. [3171.7s] Give yourself a ballot."

Dunking parts in lubricant is a quick way to coat them before you put them in the engine. It’s meant to keep the parts from rubbing dry right away.

Term

pocket

"Definitely the left here is the bore. [3180.4s] I lift the face and the, and the whole, the pocket, the pocket."

“Pocket” here likely refers to a machined recess area (often in the cylinder head or piston crown) that interacts with airflow, combustion, or clearance. The exact part depends on the broader context of the build, but it’s a reminder that engine geometry details matter.

Term

pushrod

"I actually don't lube the pocket as much because I do the pushrod, but either way, it's good idea to do both that way."

A pushrod is a part that helps the camshaft open the engine valves. It’s like a connector that moves motion from the cam to the valve system, so it needs to be assembled and lubricated correctly.

Term

cam stuff

"You want to loop down there. So that's kind of your cam stuff. Make sure everything's looped up there."

“Cam stuff” is everything related to the camshaft, which controls when the valves open and close. If it’s not set up right, the engine can wear out faster or run poorly.

Term

crank side of the bearings

"Bearings, we put it on the side of the crank side or the, yeah, the crank side of the bearings."

This is about putting the bearings in the correct orientation next to the crankshaft. Bearings have to sit the right way so oil can get where it needs to go and the engine parts don’t grind.

Term

cylinder head assembly

"Yeah. The whole cylinder head assembly. We haven't even touched the cylinder head yet."

The cylinder head assembly is the top part of the engine that sits above the cylinders. It’s where the valves live, and getting it assembled correctly is key to making sure the engine seals and runs right.

Term

Retorques

"Wow. Retorques. There's so much about engine."

Retorquing means you tighten certain bolts again after the engine parts have had time to settle. It helps keep everything clamped tightly so you don’t get leaks or loose parts.

Request an Explanation

Heard something you'd like explained? We'll add it to this episode.

Sign in to request explanations for terms you heard.

Want to learn more?

Browse our glossary for plain-English explanations of automotive terms, jargon, and concepts.

Explore Terms

Help improve this episode

See something that's not quite right? Our annotations are AI-generated and can sometimes miss the mark. Click the flag icon on any annotation to suggest a correction.

Report incorrect info
Suggest better explanations
Flag missing cars