How to Build a Cummins Engine the Right Way (Part 1)
About this episode
The hosts dig into the practical side of building Cummins engines the right way, starting with inspection and cleaning, then moving into measuring clearances, ring gap, piston-to-wall fit, and bearing setup. They share a lot of hands-on tips, like chasing threads, cleaning oil passages, checking cam bearing alignment, and using spreadsheets to track measurements. The discussion also covers ring orientation, oil clearance choices for street versus race builds, and how different parts and clearances affect durability and power.
If you have ever cracked open an engine block and wondered whether you are missing something the shop guys never talk about, this episode is for you. Todd, Will, and Myer break down the real hands-on engine building process, step by step, using their Myers UCC build as the backdrop for a conversation that covers everything from the stuff you check before you turn a wrench to the stuff that will bite you if you skip it.
The episode kicks off with oil galley plug inspection, what the guys call the oil rail, oil rifle, or oil passage depending on who is talking, and why making sure every one of those plugs is seated before assembly is a non-negotiable. They get into cleaning procedures using an engine bore brush kit to pull out machining particles and metal flakes from the cylinder bores and oil passages before anything goes back together.
Bearing clearances get a solid breakdown here. The guys walk through main bearings and rod bearings on a Cummins engine, explain why the oil holes in the bearings do not line up the way you might expect, and talk through what proper clearance looks like for street builds versus high RPM race applications. They also hit a detail that trips up a lot of first-time builders: rod caps are matched to their specific rod during the machining process, and swapping caps between rods will cost you roundness and likely an engine.
Cylinder wall prep takes up a good chunk of the conversation too. The guys reference using the Total Seal ring break-in compound to verify cleanliness, where green means the wall is ready and brown means you are not done yet. From there the discussion moves into piston ring gap, how they set the second ring at or slightly larger than the top ring, ring orientation during installation, and their experience running Total Seal gapless second rings at higher horsepower levels where piston land strength starts to become a real concern.
The back half of the episode covers assembly lube, specifically the Joe Gibbs Driven line and other black assembly greases the guys have had good results with, where to apply it and where not to, and the proper way to lube a camshaft, lifters, and cam lobes before the engine goes together. The cylinder head side of the build runs long and gets pushed to next week, so consider this Part 1 of a two-part deep look at what it actually takes to build a diesel engine the right way.
Subscribe on YouTube to catch Part 2 the moment it drops, and if you are listening on Spotify or Apple Podcasts, follow the show so you never miss an episode.
Everything the guys talked about in this episode, rings, bearings, assembly products, all of it is the kind of stuff you can find at PowerDriven.com. If you are building an engine, start there.
Shop Power Driven Diesel: https://www.powerdriven.com
0:00 Intro and Mars UCC engine build overview
1:18 Oil galley plugs and why they cannot be overlooked
2:30 Cleaning oil passages and cylinder bores
4:13 Main bearing installation and oil hole alignment
5:03 Measuring journals and bearing clearances
7:07 Cylinder wall prep and final cleaning order
10:00 Total Seal break-in compound and cylinder wall verification
10:35 Measuring rod journals, main journals, and bearings
12:30 Bearing clearance specs for street vs race applications
13:24 Why race clearances and thick oil do not work on a street truck
18:33 Rod cap and rod matching on Cummins and aftermarket rods
29:52 Piston ring clearance and piston wall clearance
31:42 Ring gap setup and second ring sizing
33:34 Ring orientation during installation
40:37 Total Seal gapless second ring discussion and high HP concerns
42:06 Loctite, fasteners, and oil galley plug sealing
49:15 Assembly grease selection and application
52:25 Camshaft and lifter lubrication
53:45 Episode wrap and Part 2 preview
ring gap
"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"
When the piston rings are installed, there’s a tiny space between the ring ends. That space matters because the rings expand when the engine gets hot—too little gap can cause rubbing or damage, and too much gap can reduce sealing.
Ring gap is the small clearance between the ends of a piston’s compression rings when installed in the cylinder. Getting the correct ring gap helps prevent the rings from butting under heat (which can cause damage) and ensures proper sealing for compression and oil control.
bearing clearance
"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"
Bearings need a very specific tiny clearance to work correctly. If it’s too tight, parts can overheat; if it’s too loose, oil pressure drops and the engine can wear out faster.
Bearing clearance is the designed gap between engine bearings and the crankshaft/journals. Correct clearance is critical for oil pressure and lubrication; too tight can overheat and seize, while too loose can reduce oil pressure and accelerate wear.
break-in
"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"
Engine break-in is the early running process used to seat piston rings and establish proper wear patterns on new or freshly rebuilt components. The goal is consistent heat cycles and controlled load so rings seal well and bearings/valvetrain components wear in safely.
Loctite
"What Loctite do you use? What lube do you use on the head studs?"
Loctite is a sticky chemical you put on threads to help bolts stay tight. It helps stop bolts from backing out over time from engine vibration.
Loctite is a brand of thread-locking compounds used to help prevent fasteners from loosening due to vibration. In engine builds, it’s often applied to specific fasteners where the manufacturer or builder calls for it, improving reliability of the assembly.
head studs
"What Loctite do you use? What lube do you use on the head studs?"
Head studs are the heavy-duty bolts that hold the top of the engine (the cylinder head) tightly to the block. Using the right lube helps the studs tighten correctly so the engine sealing stays reliable.
Head studs are threaded fasteners used to clamp the cylinder head to the engine block, often replacing or supplementing head bolts on performance or high-stress builds. Proper lubrication and torque procedure on studs helps achieve correct clamping force and reduces the risk of gasket failure or warping.
machine shop
"When you very first get a block and we will assume that you paid a machine shop or somebody to machine it. What's the first step you do, Myra?"
A machine shop is where they do the precision machining on engine parts. After they’re done, the engine builder checks everything so the engine can be assembled with the right clearances.
A machine shop performs precision work on engine components—like boring/honing cylinders and machining the block—to restore correct dimensions and surface finish. The builder’s job is to verify the work was done correctly before assembly, because small errors can ruin clearances and reliability.
cleaning fee
"It is not on your machine shop to make sure you plugged all your oil galleys and they don't have like, obviously, if you pay the cleaning fee, you should at least be inspecting it as the builder."
Sometimes the shop charges extra to clean the parts after machining. Even then, it’s smart to check that everything is sealed up and clean so oil can flow correctly.
A cleaning fee typically covers removing machining debris and ensuring oil passages are clear before assembly. Even with a cleaning service, builders should still verify critical items like oil galleries are properly plugged and free of debris.
oil galley plugs
"But there are oil galley plugs that plug the ends of the oil rail, galley, whatever you want to call it that supplies oil to all of your engine... So make sure those holes are plugged in."
When an engine is built, there are channels that carry oil to lubricate everything. Oil galley plugs are small caps that seal the ends of those channels so oil doesn’t leak out.
Oil galley plugs seal the ends of the oil passages (“galleys”) so pressurized oil can flow where it’s supposed to. If they’re omitted or not installed correctly, oil can leak and the engine may not get proper lubrication to critical components.
oil rail
"But there are oil galley plugs that plug the ends of the oil rail, galley, whatever you want to call it that supplies oil to all of your engine."
Think of the oil rail as part of the engine’s oil delivery system. It’s where oil is routed so it can reach the moving parts that need lubrication.
“Oil rail” is a common builder term for the oil distribution passage/line that feeds oil to the engine’s internal components. In this discussion, it’s used interchangeably with “oil galley,” emphasizing that the same oil-carrying system must be properly sealed and cleaned.
engine assembly cleanliness
"So make sure those holes are plugged in. And so how do you clean out those oil rifles though?... I like to like, we have a parts washer... throw it through that and then break clean it... Use some bore brushes."
This is about keeping the engine really clean while building it. If oil passages aren’t sealed and cleaned properly, the engine can leak oil or get dirty oil that harms bearings and other parts.
The segment emphasizes that proper engine assembly requires more than just “spraying something in.” Oil passages must be sealed correctly (oil galley plugs) and thoroughly cleaned so debris doesn’t block lubrication paths or contaminate bearings and other wear surfaces.
brake clean
"Cause I know the first time I was building an engine, I sprayed a little brake clean in there and air blast is like, that's all I could do, but I know that's not proper... I generally just throw it through that and then break clean it to victory."
Brake cleaner is a strong cleaner people spray to wipe off oil and grime quickly. It can help during engine building, but you still need to make sure the oil passages are truly clean and sealed.
Brake cleaner is a fast-evaporating solvent often used to remove oil and residue during engine assembly. While it can help, the key point here is that proper cleaning and verification of oil passages is still required—especially in oil galleys where debris can cause lubrication problems.
bore brushes
"Use some bore brushes. And Morosa has a nice engine kit... like Morosa engine brush kit to clean out your cylinder bores..."
Bore brushes are small brushes made to scrub the inside of the engine’s cylinder walls. Cleaning the cylinders helps prevent leftover grit from causing problems later.
Bore brushes are used to scrub inside cylinder bores to remove leftover debris, machining residue, and contaminants. In an engine build, cleaning the bores helps ensure proper ring seating and reduces the chance of abrasive particles circulating.
Morosa
"And Morosa has a nice engine kit, like very inexpensive on some of it, like Morosa engine brush kit to clean out your cylinder bores..."
Moroso makes performance parts and also tools for engine building. In this segment, they’re mentioned for a kit that helps clean the inside of the cylinders.
Moroso is an aftermarket performance parts company known for engine-building tools and kits. Here, they’re referenced for an engine brush kit intended to clean cylinder bores and related surfaces during assembly.
main oil galley
"There's like a main oil galley or rifle. One goes the little passage."
The main oil galley is like the engine’s main oil highway. Oil flows through it first, then it gets sent to the parts that need lubrication.
A main oil galley (oil passage) is a primary internal channel in the engine block that distributes pressurized oil. From this main route, oil is routed through smaller passages to reach bearings and other lubricated surfaces.
oil cooler
"And that's where the oil cooler feeds in that intersects in a T to a long, a long oil galley or long oil passage on the driver's side of the block."
An oil cooler helps keep engine oil from getting too hot. Cooler oil helps protect bearings and other moving parts.
An oil cooler is a heat-exchanger that helps control engine oil temperature. In this context, the host is describing how an oil cooler feed intersects with the block’s oil passages, so proper routing and cleanliness matter during assembly.
30 inch brush
"And that's where you need the long, you know, 30 inch brush or so. Or, you know, if you go from each end, you need about 15 inches of brush."
They’re using a very long brush to clean the inside oil channels. This helps remove leftover metal dust so oil can reach the engine parts properly.
The “30 inch brush” refers to using a long cleaning brush to scrub internal oil passages through the engine block. The goal is to remove machining debris so oil can flow freely to bearings and the camshaft bearings after assembly.
cleaning oil passages to prevent leftover machining debris
"So, yeah, take your time here and getting all you don't want to have old machining particles, metal bits, metal flakes."
When you machine or modify an engine, tiny metal bits can remain inside. Cleaning the oil passages helps prevent those bits from getting into the oil system and damaging parts.
This segment emphasizes thorough cleaning of internal oil passages during an engine build. Even small leftover machining particles can circulate once the engine starts, potentially accelerating wear or clogging small oil feed routes.
main bearings
"And as you're doing that, there's also oil passages from that to feed the main bearings and then from the main bearings,"
Main bearings are the supports that let the crankshaft spin smoothly. They need oil to stay lubricated, so the oil passages feeding them have to be correct and clean.
Main bearings support the crankshaft inside the engine block and rely on a steady supply of pressurized oil. The host is describing how oil passages feed the main bearings, making proper oil routing and cleanliness critical during assembly.
cam bearings
"and then from the main bearings, there's little whole passages in the main bearing saddle that also feeds the cam bearings."
Cam bearings help hold the camshaft in place and keep it lubricated. If oil can’t reach them, the cam can wear quickly because it’s not getting enough lubrication.
Cam bearings are the bearing surfaces that support the camshaft and control its alignment and lubrication. The host notes that oil is routed from the main bearing area into passages that feed the cam bearings, so incorrect installation can starve the cam of oil.
oil bearing
"...people think like, oh my gosh, the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap..."
An oil bearing works like a “floating” surface that’s kept apart by a thin layer of oil. If the oil can’t flow where it needs to, the bearing can wear out faster.
Oil bearings rely on a thin film of pressurized oil between the bearing surface and the rotating shaft. During a build, people check oil-hole alignment and passage size because the oil film and flow depend on those channels feeding the bearings.
main cap
"...the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap or the cam journal bearing, bushing, whatever is offset a little bit."
The main cap is part of the engine block that helps hold the crankshaft bearings. If it’s not aligned right, the crankshaft can run with poor support and the oiling can be less effective.
The main cap is the structural piece that holds the crankshaft bearings in place. In an engine build, its alignment and bearing fit matter because they control crankshaft support and oiling to the bearings.
cam journal bearing
"...the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap or the cam journal bearing, bushing, whatever is offset a little bit."
The cam journal bearing is what the camshaft spins on inside the engine. It needs the right oil flow and clearance so the camshaft doesn’t wear out quickly.
A cam journal bearing supports the camshaft where it rides in the engine. If the oiling passages and bearing clearances are off, the cam can run too tight or not get enough oil, leading to accelerated wear.
hex driver
"...the common spec for that is legitimately just to put a four millimeter hex driver through it and if it fits, you're good."
They’re using a hex tool like a simple measuring stick to check that an oil passage isn’t blocked or too tight. If the tool fits, it suggests the oil can flow properly.
A hex driver is being used as a quick go/no-go gauge to verify oil passage clearance through the bearing/oil hole area. The idea is that if the specified driver size fits, the oiling passage is likely within the intended tolerances for that build.
oil passage alignment vs bearing shell openings
"...even when you put like the main bearings in, you'll notice the holes don't line up... So this is, you maybe see like one of the first pro tips... doesn't mean the hole through the bearing is supposed to be an eighth inch."
People often expect the oil holes in the engine and the bearing to line up exactly. This discussion says that’s not always how it’s designed—what matters is whether the oiling passages meet the build specs and allow flow.
This segment explains a common misconception: bearing oil holes and block oil holes may not visually line up perfectly, yet still be correct due to designed offsets and different hole sizes. Pro builders rely on specs and clearance checks rather than assuming “perfect alignment” is required.
oil holes
"...this is, you maybe see like one of the first pro tips, the oil bearings, just because there's a hole in the block that's an eighth inch, doesn't mean the hole through the bearing is supposed to be an eighth inch."
Oil holes are the channels that send oil to the moving parts. The important takeaway is that the hole you see in the engine block isn’t always the same size as the opening in the bearing itself.
Oil holes are the passages that route oil from the block to components like main and cam bearings. The key point here is that the hole size in the block doesn’t necessarily match the hole size through the bearing shell—design tolerances and oiling strategy can differ.
aftermarket bearing manufacturers
"...basically the aftermarket bearing manufacturers have copied the common specifications. Maybe they've made changes as pro builders over the years have suggested things."
Not all bearings are made the same, but many aftermarket brands follow the same oiling and fitment specs that builders trust. If you choose reputable bearings, they’re usually designed to work as intended.
Aftermarket bearing makers often copy the “common specs” used by experienced builders and OEM-like designs. Over time, pro builder feedback can lead to small changes, but the core oiling geometry is typically consistent if you buy the right parts.
brushes through there
"...And so yeah, I'll run some brushes through there. Get it good and clean."
Running brushes through oil passages is a cleaning step to remove debris and ensure oil can flow freely to bearings. It’s a practical part of preparing an engine for assembly, especially when tolerances and oiling paths are critical.
deburr
"[334.4s] First of all, if your old engine was a performance build and someone staked [339.5s] the oil galley plugs in, make sure that you remove any, like you take a grinder, [345.1s] whatever, and deburr the stakes that they were, they had that way. [348.8s] It doesn't put a score through your oil galley plug cause a leak."
Deburr means smooth out the rough, sharp edges left from grinding or dents. Here, it’s important because rough edges can stop the plug from sealing and can cause oil to leak. Taking the time to deburr helps the new plug fit correctly.
Deburring means removing sharp edges and raised material left behind after cutting, grinding, or staking. In this context, deburring the stake marks helps prevent damage to the plug and improves sealing. It also reduces the chance of creating a leak path in the oil passage.
refresh it
"[360.4s] They think that they're helping them that way. [363.1s] And when you go to refresh it, if those stake marks are there, when you go to [367.6s] pound a new oil galley plug in there, like you said, it'll, it'll cause a leak. [372.3s] We've been there and done that."
In engine-building context, “refresh it” usually means disassembling, inspecting, and reassembling components (often with new parts) to restore reliability. The key point here is that prep work on oil passage sealing surfaces should be done before final cleaning and reassembly. Skipping steps like removing stake marks can turn a “refresh” into a leak problem.
thread chaser kit
"[377.2s] Otherwise you're then now, and something half butt cleaning it again to fix your [381.7s] grinding. I would a hundred percent recommend is get yourself a thread chaser kit. [385.2s] You can go on Amazon again. [386.2s] I'm so cheap for just a cheap one. [388.4s] And just chase every single hole in the block. [391.2s] Then a, if you have a stripped hole, then you can fix it before you've cleaned"
A thread chaser is a tool that cleans up the screw threads in a hole. If threads are a little messed up, the plug may not seat right and could leak. Using a thread chaser helps make sure the new plug goes in smoothly and seals.
A thread chaser kit is used to clean and restore damaged threads without removing extra material like a tap would. Chasing the holes in the block helps ensure the new plugs thread in correctly and seal. It’s especially useful before final cleaning so you can address stripped threads or debris in the passages.
file rings
"What about, I mean, you like to file rings before you actually clean the block. I do. I kind of think that's really before I clean, final clean."
“Filing rings” means adjusting the ends of the piston rings so they fit the cylinder with the right gap. The goal is to prevent binding when the engine heats up and to help the rings seal well.
Filing piston rings refers to carefully trimming or end-gapping rings to achieve the correct clearance in the cylinder. This is done before final cleaning so the rings and cylinder surfaces are ready for proper fit and sealing.
thread chasing
"There's a few things I like to do first, like you said, go through, check all your threads, make sure that stuff's done. I mean, you're putting rings in and out a whole bunch of times when you're threading them and getting your, set your clearances."
Thread chasing means cleaning up the screw threads so bolts go in smoothly. It helps prevent cross-threading and makes sure parts tighten down evenly.
Thread chasing is the process of running a correct tap or thread tool through fastener threads to remove burrs, old thread sealant, or damage. It helps ensure bolts and studs seat correctly and that torque readings are consistent when you reassemble an engine.
cylinder wall
"So I'll kind of like wipe down like some break clean, the upper bore of the cylinder wall, and then I'll do my, my rings that way I have that done. And then I can file final clean it."
The cylinder wall is the inside surface of the engine where the piston moves. If it’s dirty or damaged, the rings won’t seal well and the engine can wear out faster.
The cylinder wall is the machined surface the piston and rings run against. Proper cleaning and inspection of the cylinder wall are critical because debris or poor surface condition can prevent rings from sealing and can accelerate wear.
oil pump passage
"So once again, pro tip on this modification. So there's an inspection begin with, then I would say any modifications, thread chasing you're doing. I like to port the oil pump passage."
The oil pump passage is a pathway oil travels through inside the engine. Porting it means smoothing or enlarging that pathway so oil can move more easily.
An oil pump passage is the internal channel that routes oil from the pump to the rest of the lubrication system. Porting or modifying it is a common performance/reliability step aimed at improving oil flow and reducing restrictions.
porting cylinder heads
"I like to cut those edges back so that I'm, you know, I like porting cylinder heads. So I want my oil system to have the best chance of flow."
Porting is when you reshape the inside passages of the cylinder head. That helps air and fuel move through more easily, which can make the engine breathe better.
Porting cylinder heads means reshaping the intake and exhaust passages to improve airflow. The goal is to reduce restrictions so the engine can move more air/fuel mixture (or exhaust) efficiently, which can support higher power and better throttle response.
oil system
"So I want my oil system to have the best chance of flow. And the most important, in my opinion, is on the suction side to get the flow."
Your oil system is how the engine gets oil to the moving parts. If oil flow or pressure isn’t right, the engine can wear out faster or even fail.
The oil system is the network of passages, pump, pickup, and components that deliver lubrication and manage oil pressure/flow. In performance builds, oil system design is critical because it affects both lubrication reliability and how well the engine can sustain power under load.
suction side
"And the most important, in my opinion, is on the suction side to get the flow. Cause that's where it'll cavitate and separate on the pressure side."
The suction side is where the oil pump “pulls” oil from the pan. If it can’t pull oil smoothly, you can get air/vapor in the oil, and lubrication suffers.
The suction side is the portion of the oil pickup/pump inlet where the pump draws oil in. If oil flow is restricted there, the pump can pull in vapor bubbles (cavitation) or allow oil to separate, which reduces effective lubrication and can cause pressure/flow problems.
cavitate
"Cause that's where it'll cavitate and separate on the pressure side. It's going to make another PSI and, and hopefully push through that on the suction side."
Cavitation is when the oil starts to form tiny bubbles because pressure drops too low. Those bubbles can collapse and mess up oil flow, so the engine doesn’t get proper lubrication.
Cavitation is when vapor bubbles form in a liquid due to local low pressure, then collapse as pressure rises. In an oil system, cavitation can aerate the oil and reduce lubrication effectiveness, potentially leading to accelerated wear or oil pressure instability.
port that
"So I like to port that. So obviously you do that first. Yep."
They’re talking about reshaping or improving the passage paths so oil can move better. The idea is to fix the flow first before moving on to other steps.
Here, “port that” refers to modifying passages (likely oil passages/pickup-related flow paths) to improve oil movement. The emphasis is on doing the flow-path work early so the rest of the build benefits from better oil delivery.
thread and tap
"Some guys like to thread and tap their oil galley passages. They don't like the little pressed in oil galley plugs."
Threading and tapping means cutting threads into a hole so a matching bolt or fitting can screw in. In engine oiling work, it’s often used to convert a passage closure from a pressed-in plug to a threaded plug for better control and serviceability.
oil galley passages
"Some guys like to thread and tap their oil galley passages. They don't like the little pressed in oil galley plugs."
Oil galley passages are the internal channels in the engine block that route oil to bearings and other components. In performance builds, builders may modify these passages to improve flow and reduce restrictions.
oil accumulator
"If you're going to run an oil accumulator, some guys run those acu-sum things on like a race truck that has hard deceleration."
An oil accumulator is like a small backup oil tank. It helps keep oil available when the truck is braking hard and oil sloshes away from the pickup.
An oil accumulator is a reservoir that helps maintain oil supply during extreme conditions like hard braking or rapid deceleration. Race applications use them to reduce the chance of oil starvation when oil shifts away from the pickup.
MPT
"If you need a good half inch MPT or three eighths MPT, three eighths MPT,"
MPT is a type of screw thread used for fittings. Using the right thread size helps the plug or fitting seal correctly so oil doesn’t leak.
MPT typically means a tapered pipe thread size (often used for fittings and plugs). Specifying MPT sizes helps ensure the correct hardware is used so the fitting seals properly and doesn’t leak under oil pressure.
pre modifications
"So yeah. Yeah, it's good. So once you're, once you've kind of done your pre modifications, you know, we're talking about cleaning, brushing and stuff."
Before you start assembling the engine, you do some prep work first. That usually means cleaning and checking the parts so everything fits and works right later.
“Pre modifications” refers to the work you do to an engine block before the actual build steps begin. In practice, it often means cleaning, inspecting, and preparing surfaces so later machining and assembly go smoothly.
cleaning, brushing
"So once you're, once you've kind of done your pre modifications, you know, we're talking about cleaning, brushing and stuff. I do cylinder wall preparation quite a bit."
Cleaning and brushing are about removing dirt and leftover debris from the engine parts. This matters because leftover grime can cause wear and problems once the engine is running.
Cleaning and brushing are early block-prep steps used to remove machining debris, oil, and contaminants from critical surfaces. Doing this thoroughly helps prevent grit from getting into bearings, rings, and oil passages during assembly.
Total Seal ring
"And I put on that total seal ring. That green, the green, it's kind of a graphite type product."
Total Seal ring is a type of piston ring brand. Piston rings sit between the piston and the cylinder wall to keep combustion pressure from leaking out and to help control oil. Using the right ring and installing it correctly helps the engine seal well.
Total Seal is a brand of piston rings, commonly used in performance and rebuild builds. The “ring” refers to the sealing rings that control compression and oil control between the piston and cylinder wall. In a build, ring choice and installation details can affect sealing and wear.
graphite type product
"That green, the green, it's kind of a graphite type product. Yeah. It's a dry product because you kind of insult a little bit WD-40."
They’re talking about a special coating that’s used during engine assembly. It’s meant to reduce friction and protect metal surfaces while you’re putting parts together. The color and texture help them judge whether the right material is present.
The speaker describes a green, graphite-like product used during assembly. This sounds like a coating/lube applied to cylinder walls or related surfaces to manage friction and protect surfaces during initial assembly. The “dry product” comment suggests it’s not a traditional wet oil-based lubricant.
WD-40
"It's a dry product because you kind of insult a little bit WD-40. And if it's green, it's good."
WD-40 is a spray product people commonly use for loosening things or light lubrication. In an engine build, it’s usually not the final “right” lubricant for bearings and critical surfaces. The host is saying it’s used a little, but the main idea is the other coating.
WD-40 is a widely known aerosol product often used as a light lubricant or penetrant. In engine assembly contexts, it may be used temporarily to help with cleaning or initial lubrication, but it’s not a substitute for proper assembly lube where required. The speaker implies it’s used sparingly alongside the graphite-type product.
main journals
"I'm measuring the, the, uh, rod, the journal, the rod journals, the main journals, the bearings, all that stuff."
Main journals are the crankshaft bearing surfaces that ride in the main bearings. Their condition and size directly affect bearing clearance and oil film thickness. Measuring them helps determine whether the crank needs machining (or bearings need selecting) to achieve the target clearance.
rod journals
"I'm measuring the, the, uh, rod, the journal, the rod journals, the main journals, the bearings, all that stuff."
Rod journals are where the connecting rods attach to the crankshaft. The bearings there need the right tiny clearance so oil can keep everything lubricated. Measuring them helps prevent premature wear.
Rod journals are the crankshaft bearing surfaces for the connecting rods. Like main journals, their dimensions and surface finish affect bearing clearance and lubrication. Measuring rod journals is part of setting up the bottom end so the engine has correct oiling and durability.
clearances
"So when we're measuring, this would be a great time to talk about clearances a little bit. So let's just start at the bottom end because that's the bottom of the engine."
Clearances are the small gaps between parts inside the engine. Those gaps matter because they let oil flow and keep metal from rubbing. Getting the clearances right is a big part of building an engine that lasts.
“Clearances” refers to the engineered gaps between moving engine parts, such as bearing clearances. These gaps control how the oil film behaves and whether parts will run smoothly without overheating or scuffing. The speaker is setting up a bottom-end discussion focused on measuring and achieving correct clearances.
girdle
"So if it has a, if it has a girdle or something fancy, you need to put it like as if it's fully assembled, it's going to take time."
A girdle is an aftermarket or performance reinforcement piece that ties main bearing caps together to improve rigidity. Because it changes how the block and caps behave under torque, it can affect measured bearing clearances. The speaker notes you may need to install it “as if fully assembled” before measuring.
vertical oil clearance
"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."
Oil clearance is the tiny space between the crank and the bearing. “Vertical” just means they’re measuring it in one direction, and the right gap helps oil keep everything from wearing out too fast.
Vertical oil clearance is the measured gap between a bearing and the corresponding journal surface in the vertical direction. In a performance rebuild, getting this clearance within spec helps ensure the bearing gets a stable oil film for lubrication and heat control.
mains
"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."
The mains are the bearings that hold the crankshaft in place inside the engine block. The oil gap there matters because it keeps the crankshaft from rubbing directly on the bearings.
“Mains” refers to the main bearings and the main bearing journals that support the crankshaft in the engine block. Oil clearance at the mains is a key dimension for preventing metal-to-metal contact and ensuring consistent lubrication under load.
crank journals
"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."
The crank journals are the smooth “riding surfaces” on the crankshaft. Bearings sit on them, and the tiny gap between them controls how well oil can lubricate the engine.
Crank journals are the machined bearing surfaces on the crankshaft where the engine’s main and rod bearings ride. Measuring them is critical because journal size and roundness directly affect oil clearance, which influences lubrication and bearing life.
spreadsheet
"And so two parts of that, I, I'm a big believer in just writing down your numbers... if you have a spreadsheet and that way it also does a lot of the math for you."
A spreadsheet is just a structured way to write down measurements. It helps you keep everything organized and do the calculations correctly instead of relying on memory or mental math.
Using a spreadsheet to record measured crank journal dimensions and resulting clearances helps reduce math errors and makes it easier to compare journals consistently. It also creates a clear build record for troubleshooting later if something doesn’t behave as expected.
dial board gauge
"...I'll zero it on number one, and then I'll zero my, um, dial board gauge on that same number one."
A dial bore gauge (often called a dial board gauge in casual speech) is a precision measuring tool used to check internal dimensions and clearances. Here it’s being zeroed on a known reference journal and then used to compare other journals for consistent oil clearance.
diagonal check
"And so then something I do as well is when you got that dial board gauge in there, also do a diagonal check... if the caps offset, you might only have a thou clearance or 10,000 clearance on a diagonal with the vertical being correct."
This is a “double-check” measurement in a different direction. It helps confirm the bearing cap is installed correctly, because a wrong or offset cap can make the gap uneven even if one measurement looks fine.
A diagonal check is a verification step to catch misalignment or mixed-up bearing caps. Even if the vertical clearance looks correct, an offset cap can create different clearance at other points, which can lead to uneven bearing loading.
RPM
"And so you need more room for stuff to move and there's more RPM. And with more power, stuff's going to heat up faster bearings."
RPM means how fast the engine spins. When RPM is higher, the engine parts move faster and heat up more. That can make it harder for oil to keep everything separated, so builders plan for it.
RPM (revolutions per minute) is how fast the engine is spinning. Higher RPM increases heat and load on bearings and can reduce the stability of the oil film. That’s why performance engines often adjust clearances and oil choice for high-RPM operation.
oil film
"And with more power, stuff's going to heat up faster bearings. It is going to push through the oil film and touch the bearing once and while it's going to put more heat there."
The oil film is the thin layer of oil that separates metal surfaces inside an engine bearings. Under high RPM and load, the oil film can thin out; if it fails, the bearing can contact the shaft. This is why clearance and oil viscosity are so important in performance builds.
idle oil pressure
"the downside of that for a guy building a tow truck or street engine, big clearance means when your oil is hot and that idle where your oil pump spinning slow, your idle oil pressure will be lower with big bearing clearance."
Idle oil pressure is how much pressure the oil pump makes when the engine is just idling. If the engine has bigger clearances, oil can escape more, so pressure drops. Lower idle pressure can be a problem for daily driving.
Idle oil pressure is the oil pressure the engine maintains when it’s running at idle speed. With larger bearing clearance, oil can leak past the bearings more easily, so pressure can drop—especially when the oil pump is turning slowly at idle. That’s a key downside for street or tow-truck use compared with race-only setups.
20W-50
"Which is why when most people do race engines, the big clearance is running a much heavier oil, thicker oil, like a 20, 50 or a straight 50."
20W-50 is a thicker engine oil grade. Builders use it to keep oil protection strong when the engine is running hard or has bigger clearances. It can be less friendly when the engine is cold, which is why it’s not ideal for everyday driving.
20W-50 is a common heavy-duty engine oil grade (a thicker oil) often used in high-load or race applications. In the context of this discussion, it’s mentioned as a thicker viscosity choice to compensate for reduced idle oil pressure caused by larger bearing clearance. The downside is typically worse cold flow and less ideal behavior for daily driving.
straight 50
"like a 20, 50 or a straight 50. I mean, they're running a much, much thicker viscosity to high viscosity to make up for that very problem."
Straight 50 is an oil that doesn’t change viscosity much with temperature—it stays thick. That thickness can help protect bearings when the engine is hot and running hard. But it can flow poorly when cold, which is why it’s not great for commuting.
Straight 50 refers to a single-grade oil that stays at a relatively thick viscosity across operating temperatures. The speaker contrasts it with multi-grade oils and notes racers may use it to maintain oil film strength when clearances are larger. The implication is reduced cold flow, making it less suitable for daily driving.
viscosity
"they're running a much, much thicker viscosity to high viscosity to make up for that very problem. It doesn't run as well."
Viscosity is a measure of how thick an oil is and how it flows at different temperatures. Higher-viscosity (thicker) oils can help maintain oil film strength when clearances are larger and oil pressure at idle is lower. The tradeoff is that thicker oil can flow worse when cold, which hurts drivability and lubrication during warm-up.
race engine vs street truck
"It's one of the reasons you don't put a race engine, your street truck, you don't put a race transmission behind your tow truck."
A race engine is tuned and built for hard use in a controlled way. A street truck has different everyday conditions, so using race-only choices can cause reliability problems.
This is a reminder that a “race engine” is typically built with different clearances, materials, and operating assumptions than an engine intended for street use. Race parts can be less tolerant of heat cycles, low-load driving, and long-duration towing.
build for what you're doing
"Like as always build for what you're doing. Yeah. So then the clearances wise, the loosest I've ever seen on an engine that was running fine was like six thousandths main clearance."
Don’t build a truck for “maximum performance” if it’s meant to tow or drive daily. Parts that work great for racing can wear out faster or behave differently under normal loads.
The hosts are emphasizing that engine and drivetrain parts should be selected based on the vehicle’s actual job—street use, towing, or racing. A race-focused setup often has different durability and operating requirements than a street/tow setup, so matching the build to the duty cycle is key.
main clearance
"So then the clearances wise, the loosest I've ever seen on an engine that was running fine was like six thousandths main clearance. Some of those big mega power builds... they like to really loosen up that clearance."
Main clearance is the tiny gap where the crankshaft rides on the main bearings. Getting it right helps the engine stay lubricated and prevents overheating or premature wear.
Main clearance is the gap between the crankshaft’s main journals and the engine’s main bearings. It affects oil pressure, lubrication stability, and how safely the engine tolerates heat and load.
mega power builds
"Some of those big mega power builds I see from like Midwest builders, they like to really loosen up that clearance. The tightest I think I've seen... down at two thousandths and it was fine, but it made me nervous."
Some builders chasing huge horsepower change the internal clearances more than you’d see on a normal build. That can help in extreme conditions, but it can also make the engine less forgiving if it’s not set up right.
The hosts reference “mega power builds” from builders who loosen clearances more aggressively. This highlights a common tradeoff in high-output builds: pushing clearances to manage oiling and thermal behavior under extreme conditions, but potentially increasing risk if the engine isn’t built and tuned for it.
rod bearings
"Three to four rod bearings. Yep. Three to four on the mains, like kind of like towards the like three to quarter to three and a half."
Rod bearings are the bearings that connect the pistons’ motion to the crankshaft. They need the right fit and oil supply so the engine doesn’t wear out quickly.
Rod bearings sit between the connecting rods and the crankshaft, handling high loads as pistons move. Bearing clearances and bearing selection strongly influence oiling, wear rate, and how the engine survives high power or sustained stress.
HX
"Now, for the guys that don't know, H is an upgraded kind of performance bearing. And then HX means it has an extra thousandth of clearance. Yep. If you use both the upper and lower half, if you only use half of an HX,"
HX is a thicker/looser bearing option that gives you a bit more clearance than the standard H bearing. Builders use it like a dial—choosing HX (or part of it) to get the exact spacing they want inside the engine.
“HX” is a bearing variant that provides extra clearance compared with the standard “H” bearing. The host describes it as having an additional thousandth of clearance, and using only part of an HX stack-up to fine-tune clearance in smaller increments.
H bearings
"that if you're building an engine that uses H bearings, you have H and HX. You can mix and match. You can put an H on the bottom, HX on the top."
H bearings are special engine bearings that are meant to fit a tighter, more controlled clearance than stock. When you build an engine, that clearance matters because it affects how smoothly the crank moves and how well the engine stays lubricated.
“H bearings” refers to an upgraded performance bearing used in an engine build to control internal clearances. In practice, builders choose bearing thickness/clearance targets so the crankshaft and connecting components run smoothly without excessive play.
dial in clearance
"And that way you can really nail your clearance the whole way across the block. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your clearance is like basically spot on where you want them."
“Dial in clearance” describes the process of using measurements and bearing selection to achieve a precise, repeatable clearance target. The episode frames it as predictable and spot-on when you record journal thicknesses and then mix bearing halves (H/HX) to match the desired spacing.
main galley
"and so, so yeah, you can just like, because you measured all of you measured and recorded all your main galley or main journal thicknesses. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your"
This is about the main bearing area—where the crankshaft sits in the engine. Builders measure the crank’s journal surfaces so they can choose the right bearings and get the correct fit.
“Main galley” appears to refer to the main bearing journal area and/or the oiling passages associated with the main bearings. The host mentions measuring and recording main journal thicknesses so the builder can select bearing combinations to hit the desired clearances.
main journal thicknesses
"because you measured all of you measured and recorded all your main galley or main journal thicknesses. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your"
The main journal is the part of the crankshaft that rides on the main bearings. Measuring its thickness helps you pick bearings that create the right tiny gap for proper lubrication.
“Main journal thicknesses” are measurements of the crankshaft’s main bearing contact surfaces. Accurate journal measurements let the builder choose bearing thickness/clearance combinations (H/HX) so the final bearing clearance is correct and consistent across the engine.
800 horsepower build
"And like, like say, I liked between like three, three, three and three three quarter for like a lower call, like 800 horsepower build. And then you start talking higher, like opening up a little bit, just so"
They’re talking about how engine-building choices can change depending on how much power you’re trying to make. For a big-number build, you may want slightly different clearances so the engine can handle heat and stress.
The host uses an “800 horsepower build” as a reference point for how much bearing/clearance strategy they prefer at different power levels. The idea is that higher-output builds may need slightly different clearance targets to ensure there’s room for parts to move under load and heat.
non water cooled block (solid block)
"“And maybe on a, on a non water cooled block, like a solid block, you know, and things are moving around, you know, and you have to put it, you know, maybe that's where that would make sense.”"
Most engines use coolant to keep temperatures under control. If a block is described as “solid” or “non water cooled,” it means the usual cooling approach isn’t there, so heat builds differently. That can change how much parts expand, which is why clearances might need different setup in extreme cases.
A “non water cooled block” or “solid block” implies an engine block design without conventional liquid-cooling passages in the area being discussed. In extreme-duty builds, cooling strategy affects how the block and rotating assembly expand under heat, which in turn influences clearances like bearing gaps. The speaker suggests that more radical clearance changes may only be necessary when the cooling/heat behavior is significantly different from a typical water-cooled setup.
sled pull trucks
"“We haven't made top level sled pull trucks either. Both in the Cummins range, which is quite wide.”"
Sled pulling is when a truck tries to pull a heavy sled as hard as it can. The engine is under heavy load for a long time, which can stress it more than normal driving. So engine builders often set up clearances and parts differently for that kind of use.
Sled pulling is a motorsport where a vehicle drags a heavy sled, demanding sustained high torque and traction. Engines built for sled pull typically see different stress patterns than a street truck, including long periods of high load at relatively low speeds. That’s why builders may talk about tighter clearances, stronger components, and more conservative limits depending on the class and cooling setup.
Cummins
"“Both in the Cummins range, which is quite wide. You got almost everybody covered in that range.”"
Cummins makes diesel engines that show up in a lot of trucks. When the speaker says “Cummins range,” they mean different Cummins engine types/builds. They’re talking about how much you need to change clearances and parts depending on how hard you’ll use the engine.
Cummins is a major manufacturer of diesel engines, widely used in trucks and performance builds. In the context of this episode, “Cummins range” refers to the variety of Cummins engine families and how builders tailor clearances and components based on the intended duty cycle (street, towing, or competition).
torque the rod bolts down
"“Now, when you check rods, the way you would do that is you would then put the bearing halves in the rod, you would torque the rod bolts down.”"
The bolts that hold the rod cap on have to be tightened to the right spec. If they’re too loose, the bearing can move and wear out; if they’re too tight, the parts can distort or run hot. That’s why builders torque them carefully and usually use new hardware.
Rod bolts must be torqued to a specified value (and often in a specific sequence) because they control the clamping force that sets bearing alignment and oil clearance. Many builders also use new bolts and follow the manufacturer’s torque procedure to ensure consistent stretch and strength. Incorrect torque can lead to bearing failure, oil starvation, or crankshaft scoring.
rod vice with soft jaws
"“So a lot of people have a nice, like a rod vice that's got soft jaws to clamp the rod because you get some of these aftermarket, you know, performance”"
A rod vice is like a specialized clamp for holding a connecting rod while you work on it. Soft jaws are the cushioned/grippy inserts that hold the rod without scratching or bending it. That helps keep the rod straight and prevents problems later when the engine is assembled.
A rod vice is a clamping tool used to hold a connecting rod securely during inspection or assembly. “Soft jaws” are replaceable, non-marring jaw inserts that grip the rod without damaging the bearing surfaces or deforming the rod. This matters because connecting rods are precision-machined parts, and even small damage can affect bearing alignment and clearance.
connecting rods
"rods, it torques 120, 530 foot pounds... That's hard to hold a rod to 130 foot pounds with a big old tank of a torque wrench."
Connecting rods are the parts that connect the pistons to the crankshaft. When you build an engine, how you torque and assemble the rods affects how the bearings sit and how smoothly the crankshaft spins.
Connecting rods (often shortened to “rods”) transmit force from the pistons to the crankshaft. In this segment, the hosts discuss tightening rods to a target torque and the practical steps that affect bearing clearance and fitment.
torque wrench
"That's hard to hold a rod to 130 foot pounds with a big old tank of a torque wrench."
A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness instead of “by feel.” That matters on engines because the bolts need to be tight enough to hold parts safely, but not so tight that they cause problems.
A torque wrench is a tool that tightens fasteners to a specific torque value. In engine building, it helps ensure rod bolts and related hardware are clamped correctly to prevent failures and maintain proper bearing clearances.
rod clearance
"measure the clearance... all the journals and sometimes you play musical rod bearings to get your rod clearance."
Rod clearance is the tiny space between the bearing and the crankshaft. The engine needs the right amount of space so oil can get in and keep everything from rubbing directly.
Rod clearance is the small gap between the rod bearing and the crankshaft journal. Builders measure it to ensure the oil film is thick enough for lubrication while avoiding excessive clearance that can reduce oil pressure and increase wear.
dimple die
"I like to mark on the end either with a dimple die or paint because you can flip the caps around on some rods..."
A dimple die is a tool that makes a small mark on a metal part. Builders use it to keep track of which cap goes with which rod so everything goes back together correctly.
A dimple die is a marking tool used to create small, repeatable indentations on parts. Here it’s used to mark rod caps/ends so they can be reassembled in the correct orientation, especially when caps can be swapped.
Carillo rod
"You have to be kind of dumb to assemble a waggler rod backwards, but like a Carillo rod, yeah, absolutely. It's just a little dowel thing."
Carrillo makes aftermarket connecting rods. The point being made is that some rods are designed so they only fit together one correct way, and mixing them up can cause poor alignment.
Carrillo (often misspelled as “Carillo” in transcripts) is a well-known aftermarket connecting-rod manufacturer. The mention here is about rod design features (like dowel/pin alignment) that affect how the rods can be assembled and oriented.
number them one through six
"So I like to mark the rod ends before I go, something I do is I actually number them one through six."
Numbering rods is a way to remember which parts go together. Because each rod and cap can be a little different, labeling helps you put them back exactly the same way.
Numbering connecting rods (and matching caps) is an assembly practice that preserves the original fitment and orientation. Since each rod/cap pair can have slightly different machining and wear patterns, labeling helps maintain consistent clearances across cylinders.
piston rods
"So I actually write one on both the rod and the cap on the same side with a permanent mark so that, so that I know... you can't put the cap on one rod onto another rod. You need to keep the cap with the rod. It was done because that was put together, torqued and honed to size."
The connecting rod is the part that links the piston to the crankshaft. The rod cap is made to match that specific rod, so you should keep them together—otherwise the fit inside the engine can be slightly wrong.
Piston rods (connecting rods) are matched pairs that are machined and assembled to work together. During factory assembly, rods and caps are torqued and honed to a specific size, so swapping caps between rods can change bearing fit and roundness.
keeping matched rod/cap sets together
"And, and anytime I pull that engine out or whatever, another thing you need to know about piston rods, you can't put the cap on one rod onto another rod. You need to keep the cap with the rod... it'll go on there, but it's not going to be round."
Think of the rod cap and rod like a matched pair. Even if you can physically swap them, the fit inside the engine may not be right, which can hurt reliability.
The segment emphasizes that connecting rod caps must stay with their original rods because the assembly process (torque and honing) creates a specific bearing fit. Even if parts “bolt together,” mismatching can lead to incorrect bearing geometry and reduced durability.
torqued and honed to size
"You need to keep the cap with the rod. It was done because that was put together, torqued and honed to size."
Some engine parts are assembled with exact torque settings and then finished to the right dimensions. That’s how they get the correct “fit” and clearance—so swapping parts can make the fit too tight or too loose.
When connecting rods are assembled, the bolts are torqued to a precise specification and the bearing surfaces are honed to the final dimensions. This creates the correct clearance and roundness for the crankshaft journals, which is why mixing parts can cause problems.
serial numbers
"So you'll notice like on your factory Cummins rods, they have serial numbers on the side and that's really the cap and the rod match. So some of the aftermarket doesn't."
Some factory parts are marked so you can tell which pieces belong together. If the rod and cap are a matched set, the serial numbers help you keep them paired correctly.
Factory Cummins connecting rods may include serial numbers that indicate the rod and its matching cap. That matching is important because the cap and rod are treated as a matched set for the final machining and assembly.
pin clearance
"Now, to be technically correct, you should also measure the pin clearance, which is especially important if you're doing factory rods and someone reconditioned them... generally you want to stay in that, I'd say thousandth to down half range is pretty normal pin clearance"
Pin clearance is the tiny space between the piston’s pin and the rod’s bushing. It needs to be just right: too tight and it can stick when the engine gets hot, too loose and it can rattle or wear faster. That’s why people measure it before final assembly.
Pin clearance is the small designed gap between a piston’s wrist (gudgeon) pin and its connecting-rod bushing/bore. Too little clearance can cause binding when parts expand with heat; too much clearance can increase noise and wear. Builders measure it with precision tools and compare it to the spec for the rod/pin combination.
connecting-rod bushing
"...especially important if you're doing factory rods and someone reconditioned them... put a... in the, the pin bushing and, and that now pin clearance is it's a wider topic."
A connecting-rod bushing is the bearing surface inside the rod that the wrist pin rides in (common in many rebuilds). When rods are reconditioned, the bushing may be replaced or resized, which directly affects pin clearance. Correct bushing fit and measurement are essential for durability and quiet operation.
clearance trade-off (heat expansion vs noise/wear)
"...you can go as tight... I would not recommend somebody go less than a thousandth... you get 2000s when it's cold, you might actually get a little bit of a slop or almost like a rod knock noise."
The segment describes a clearance trade-off: tighter clearances reduce slop and noise, but they risk interference when parts expand with heat. Looser clearances avoid binding but can increase cold slop and contribute to knock-like noises and wear. Engine builders tune clearances based on the intended use (street vs race) and operating temperatures.
rod knock noise
"...the problem is you get 2000s when it's cold, you might actually get a little bit of a slop or almost like a rod knock noise."
Rod knock noise is a knocking sound from the engine bottom end. It can happen when parts have too much looseness, especially when the engine is cold. If you hear it, it often means the clearances aren’t right.
Rod knock noise is an audible knocking/tapping sound that can occur when there’s excessive clearance or worn components in the connecting-rod/piston-pin area. In this segment, the host notes that too much clearance when cold can create slop that sounds like a knock. It’s a clue that the fitment/clearance may be out of spec.
piston-to-wall clearance
"We talked about clearance, um, part of your, your checking and clearance, you're going to want to check your piston to wall clearance."
This is the tiny space between the piston and the cylinder wall. If the gap is too tight, the piston can rub and overheat; if it’s too loose, you can get extra wear and poor performance. Machinists measure it so the engine fits correctly once it’s hot.
Piston-to-wall clearance is the small gap between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall when the engine is assembled. It matters because pistons expand with heat, and the right clearance prevents scuffing while still controlling piston movement and wear. Builders measure it during machining to ensure the engine will run reliably under load.
trust, but verify
"Hopefully you told the machine shop what you wanted there, but we should hit on that a little bit, trust, but verify."
It means you shouldn’t just assume everything is correct—you should double-check the important measurements. In engine building, a small mistake can lead to big damage, so verifying helps you catch problems early.
“Trust, but verify” is the idea that you can rely on a machine shop’s work, but you should still confirm critical measurements yourself. In engine building, small dimensional errors can cause major problems, so independent checking reduces the risk of expensive mistakes. It’s especially relevant when clearances and tolerances are tight.
piston skirt
"Like if we're machining the block, this is the way you do it is you, you measure the skirt of the piston."
The piston skirt is the part of the piston that slides along the cylinder wall. Since it’s the part that actually fits inside the cylinder, measuring it helps you confirm the engine has the right clearance. That’s important to prevent rubbing and excessive wear.
The piston skirt is the lower portion of the piston that guides it in the cylinder. Measuring the skirt is a common way to determine the clearance to the cylinder wall because that’s where the fit and wear behavior are most critical. Skirt shape and taper affect how clearance changes from top to bottom.
oblong
"If you look at a piston, it is, it's a big taper. It's oblong and it's tapered all the way up."
An “oblong” piston isn’t perfectly round like a circle. It’s shaped so the fit and clearance are right in different directions. That’s why you can’t just measure one spot and assume everything is fine.
“Oblong” describes a piston shape that isn’t perfectly round—its diameter differs in two directions. This helps control how the piston behaves as it heats and expands, and it affects clearance at different points in the cylinder. Engine builders account for this by measuring in the correct orientation and locations.
piston taper
"If you look at a piston, it is, it's a big taper. It's oblong and it's tapered all the way up."
Pistons aren’t perfectly the same thickness from top to bottom—they’re shaped with a taper. That means the gap to the cylinder changes depending on where you measure. Measuring the right spot gives the most accurate clearance.
Piston taper refers to the piston being wider at one end and narrower at the other (often wider near the skirt bottom and tighter toward the top). Because the piston is tapered and also shaped to be slightly oblong, the clearance is not uniform at all heights. That’s why builders measure at specific locations to calculate the real running clearance.
Molly piston
"And if you look at like a coated skirt, like a Molly piston, they have a little window right there, right where they want you to measure."
A “Molly piston” usually means the piston skirt has a special coating to help it slide smoothly and resist wear. When you measure it, you want to avoid scratching that coating. That’s why some pistons have a marked area for measurement.
A “Molly piston” typically refers to a piston with a molybdenum-based coating on the skirt (often used to reduce friction and scuffing). Coated skirts can be sensitive to measurement technique because you don’t want to damage the coating. Some coated pistons include a specific “window” area so you can measure without scratching through the coating.
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