How to Build a Cummins Engine the Right Way (Part 1)
About this episode
The hosts dig into the practical side of building Cummins engines the right way, starting with inspection and cleaning, then moving into measuring clearances, ring gap, piston-to-wall fit, and bearing setup. They share a lot of hands-on tips, like chasing threads, cleaning oil passages, checking cam bearing alignment, and using spreadsheets to track measurements. The discussion also covers ring orientation, oil clearance choices for street versus race builds, and how different parts and clearances affect durability and power.
If you have ever cracked open an engine block and wondered whether you are missing something the shop guys never talk about, this episode is for you. Todd, Will, and Myer break down the real hands-on engine building process, step by step, using their Myers UCC build as the backdrop for a conversation that covers everything from the stuff you check before you turn a wrench to the stuff that will bite you if you skip it.
The episode kicks off with oil galley plug inspection, what the guys call the oil rail, oil rifle, or oil passage depending on who is talking, and why making sure every one of those plugs is seated before assembly is a non-negotiable. They get into cleaning procedures using an engine bore brush kit to pull out machining particles and metal flakes from the cylinder bores and oil passages before anything goes back together.
Bearing clearances get a solid breakdown here. The guys walk through main bearings and rod bearings on a Cummins engine, explain why the oil holes in the bearings do not line up the way you might expect, and talk through what proper clearance looks like for street builds versus high RPM race applications. They also hit a detail that trips up a lot of first-time builders: rod caps are matched to their specific rod during the machining process, and swapping caps between rods will cost you roundness and likely an engine.
Cylinder wall prep takes up a good chunk of the conversation too. The guys reference using the Total Seal ring break-in compound to verify cleanliness, where green means the wall is ready and brown means you are not done yet. From there the discussion moves into piston ring gap, how they set the second ring at or slightly larger than the top ring, ring orientation during installation, and their experience running Total Seal gapless second rings at higher horsepower levels where piston land strength starts to become a real concern.
The back half of the episode covers assembly lube, specifically the Joe Gibbs Driven line and other black assembly greases the guys have had good results with, where to apply it and where not to, and the proper way to lube a camshaft, lifters, and cam lobes before the engine goes together. The cylinder head side of the build runs long and gets pushed to next week, so consider this Part 1 of a two-part deep look at what it actually takes to build a diesel engine the right way.
Subscribe on YouTube to catch Part 2 the moment it drops, and if you are listening on Spotify or Apple Podcasts, follow the show so you never miss an episode.
Everything the guys talked about in this episode, rings, bearings, assembly products, all of it is the kind of stuff you can find at PowerDriven.com. If you are building an engine, start there.
Shop Power Driven Diesel: https://www.powerdriven.com
0:00 Intro and Mars UCC engine build overview
1:18 Oil galley plugs and why they cannot be overlooked
2:30 Cleaning oil passages and cylinder bores
4:13 Main bearing installation and oil hole alignment
5:03 Measuring journals and bearing clearances
7:07 Cylinder wall prep and final cleaning order
10:00 Total Seal break-in compound and cylinder wall verification
10:35 Measuring rod journals, main journals, and bearings
12:30 Bearing clearance specs for street vs race applications
13:24 Why race clearances and thick oil do not work on a street truck
18:33 Rod cap and rod matching on Cummins and aftermarket rods
29:52 Piston ring clearance and piston wall clearance
31:42 Ring gap setup and second ring sizing
33:34 Ring orientation during installation
40:37 Total Seal gapless second ring discussion and high HP concerns
42:06 Loctite, fasteners, and oil galley plug sealing
49:15 Assembly grease selection and application
52:25 Camshaft and lifter lubrication
53:45 Episode wrap and Part 2 preview
ring gap
"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"
When the piston rings are installed, there’s a tiny space between the ring ends. That space matters because the rings expand when the engine gets hot—too little gap can cause rubbing or damage, and too much gap can reduce sealing.
Ring gap is the small clearance between the ends of a piston’s compression rings when installed in the cylinder. Getting the correct ring gap helps prevent the rings from butting under heat (which can cause damage) and ensures proper sealing for compression and oil control.
bearing clearance
"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"
Bearings need a very specific tiny clearance to work correctly. If it’s too tight, parts can overheat; if it’s too loose, oil pressure drops and the engine can wear out faster.
Bearing clearance is the designed gap between engine bearings and the crankshaft/journals. Correct clearance is critical for oil pressure and lubrication; too tight can overheat and seize, while too loose can reduce oil pressure and accelerate wear.
break-in
"People are asking us about ring gap, bearing clearance, piss in a wall clearance. How do you break it in? What oil do you use?"
Engine break-in is the early running process used to seat piston rings and establish proper wear patterns on new or freshly rebuilt components. The goal is consistent heat cycles and controlled load so rings seal well and bearings/valvetrain components wear in safely.
Loctite
"What Loctite do you use? What lube do you use on the head studs?"
Loctite is a sticky chemical you put on threads to help bolts stay tight. It helps stop bolts from backing out over time from engine vibration.
Loctite is a brand of thread-locking compounds used to help prevent fasteners from loosening due to vibration. In engine builds, it’s often applied to specific fasteners where the manufacturer or builder calls for it, improving reliability of the assembly.
head studs
"What Loctite do you use? What lube do you use on the head studs?"
Head studs are the heavy-duty bolts that hold the top of the engine (the cylinder head) tightly to the block. Using the right lube helps the studs tighten correctly so the engine sealing stays reliable.
Head studs are threaded fasteners used to clamp the cylinder head to the engine block, often replacing or supplementing head bolts on performance or high-stress builds. Proper lubrication and torque procedure on studs helps achieve correct clamping force and reduces the risk of gasket failure or warping.
machine shop
"When you very first get a block and we will assume that you paid a machine shop or somebody to machine it. What's the first step you do, Myra?"
A machine shop is where they do the precision machining on engine parts. After they’re done, the engine builder checks everything so the engine can be assembled with the right clearances.
A machine shop performs precision work on engine components—like boring/honing cylinders and machining the block—to restore correct dimensions and surface finish. The builder’s job is to verify the work was done correctly before assembly, because small errors can ruin clearances and reliability.
cleaning fee
"It is not on your machine shop to make sure you plugged all your oil galleys and they don't have like, obviously, if you pay the cleaning fee, you should at least be inspecting it as the builder."
Sometimes the shop charges extra to clean the parts after machining. Even then, it’s smart to check that everything is sealed up and clean so oil can flow correctly.
A cleaning fee typically covers removing machining debris and ensuring oil passages are clear before assembly. Even with a cleaning service, builders should still verify critical items like oil galleries are properly plugged and free of debris.
oil galley plugs
"But there are oil galley plugs that plug the ends of the oil rail, galley, whatever you want to call it that supplies oil to all of your engine... So make sure those holes are plugged in."
When an engine is built, there are channels that carry oil to lubricate everything. Oil galley plugs are small caps that seal the ends of those channels so oil doesn’t leak out.
Oil galley plugs seal the ends of the oil passages (“galleys”) so pressurized oil can flow where it’s supposed to. If they’re omitted or not installed correctly, oil can leak and the engine may not get proper lubrication to critical components.
oil rail
"But there are oil galley plugs that plug the ends of the oil rail, galley, whatever you want to call it that supplies oil to all of your engine."
Think of the oil rail as part of the engine’s oil delivery system. It’s where oil is routed so it can reach the moving parts that need lubrication.
“Oil rail” is a common builder term for the oil distribution passage/line that feeds oil to the engine’s internal components. In this discussion, it’s used interchangeably with “oil galley,” emphasizing that the same oil-carrying system must be properly sealed and cleaned.
engine assembly cleanliness
"So make sure those holes are plugged in. And so how do you clean out those oil rifles though?... I like to like, we have a parts washer... throw it through that and then break clean it... Use some bore brushes."
This is about keeping the engine really clean while building it. If oil passages aren’t sealed and cleaned properly, the engine can leak oil or get dirty oil that harms bearings and other parts.
The segment emphasizes that proper engine assembly requires more than just “spraying something in.” Oil passages must be sealed correctly (oil galley plugs) and thoroughly cleaned so debris doesn’t block lubrication paths or contaminate bearings and other wear surfaces.
brake clean
"Cause I know the first time I was building an engine, I sprayed a little brake clean in there and air blast is like, that's all I could do, but I know that's not proper... I generally just throw it through that and then break clean it to victory."
Brake cleaner is a strong cleaner people spray to wipe off oil and grime quickly. It can help during engine building, but you still need to make sure the oil passages are truly clean and sealed.
Brake cleaner is a fast-evaporating solvent often used to remove oil and residue during engine assembly. While it can help, the key point here is that proper cleaning and verification of oil passages is still required—especially in oil galleys where debris can cause lubrication problems.
bore brushes
"Use some bore brushes. And Morosa has a nice engine kit... like Morosa engine brush kit to clean out your cylinder bores..."
Bore brushes are small brushes made to scrub the inside of the engine’s cylinder walls. Cleaning the cylinders helps prevent leftover grit from causing problems later.
Bore brushes are used to scrub inside cylinder bores to remove leftover debris, machining residue, and contaminants. In an engine build, cleaning the bores helps ensure proper ring seating and reduces the chance of abrasive particles circulating.
Morosa
"And Morosa has a nice engine kit, like very inexpensive on some of it, like Morosa engine brush kit to clean out your cylinder bores..."
Moroso makes performance parts and also tools for engine building. In this segment, they’re mentioned for a kit that helps clean the inside of the cylinders.
Moroso is an aftermarket performance parts company known for engine-building tools and kits. Here, they’re referenced for an engine brush kit intended to clean cylinder bores and related surfaces during assembly.
main oil galley
"There's like a main oil galley or rifle. One goes the little passage."
The main oil galley is like the engine’s main oil highway. Oil flows through it first, then it gets sent to the parts that need lubrication.
A main oil galley (oil passage) is a primary internal channel in the engine block that distributes pressurized oil. From this main route, oil is routed through smaller passages to reach bearings and other lubricated surfaces.
oil cooler
"And that's where the oil cooler feeds in that intersects in a T to a long, a long oil galley or long oil passage on the driver's side of the block."
An oil cooler helps keep engine oil from getting too hot. Cooler oil helps protect bearings and other moving parts.
An oil cooler is a heat-exchanger that helps control engine oil temperature. In this context, the host is describing how an oil cooler feed intersects with the block’s oil passages, so proper routing and cleanliness matter during assembly.
30 inch brush
"And that's where you need the long, you know, 30 inch brush or so. Or, you know, if you go from each end, you need about 15 inches of brush."
They’re using a very long brush to clean the inside oil channels. This helps remove leftover metal dust so oil can reach the engine parts properly.
The “30 inch brush” refers to using a long cleaning brush to scrub internal oil passages through the engine block. The goal is to remove machining debris so oil can flow freely to bearings and the camshaft bearings after assembly.
cleaning oil passages to prevent leftover machining debris
"So, yeah, take your time here and getting all you don't want to have old machining particles, metal bits, metal flakes."
When you machine or modify an engine, tiny metal bits can remain inside. Cleaning the oil passages helps prevent those bits from getting into the oil system and damaging parts.
This segment emphasizes thorough cleaning of internal oil passages during an engine build. Even small leftover machining particles can circulate once the engine starts, potentially accelerating wear or clogging small oil feed routes.
main bearings
"And as you're doing that, there's also oil passages from that to feed the main bearings and then from the main bearings,"
Main bearings are the supports that let the crankshaft spin smoothly. They need oil to stay lubricated, so the oil passages feeding them have to be correct and clean.
Main bearings support the crankshaft inside the engine block and rely on a steady supply of pressurized oil. The host is describing how oil passages feed the main bearings, making proper oil routing and cleanliness critical during assembly.
cam bearings
"and then from the main bearings, there's little whole passages in the main bearing saddle that also feeds the cam bearings."
Cam bearings help hold the camshaft in place and keep it lubricated. If oil can’t reach them, the cam can wear quickly because it’s not getting enough lubrication.
Cam bearings are the bearing surfaces that support the camshaft and control its alignment and lubrication. The host notes that oil is routed from the main bearing area into passages that feed the cam bearings, so incorrect installation can starve the cam of oil.
main cap
"...the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap or the cam journal bearing, bushing, whatever is offset a little bit."
The main cap is part of the engine block that helps hold the crankshaft bearings. If it’s not aligned right, the crankshaft can run with poor support and the oiling can be less effective.
The main cap is the structural piece that holds the crankshaft bearings in place. In an engine build, its alignment and bearing fit matter because they control crankshaft support and oiling to the bearings.
oil bearing
"...people think like, oh my gosh, the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap..."
An oil bearing works like a “floating” surface that’s kept apart by a thin layer of oil. If the oil can’t flow where it needs to, the bearing can wear out faster.
Oil bearings rely on a thin film of pressurized oil between the bearing surface and the rotating shaft. During a build, people check oil-hole alignment and passage size because the oil film and flow depend on those channels feeding the bearings.
cam journal bearing
"...the oil bearing or the, like for the main cap or the cam journal bearing, bushing, whatever is offset a little bit."
The cam journal bearing is what the camshaft spins on inside the engine. It needs the right oil flow and clearance so the camshaft doesn’t wear out quickly.
A cam journal bearing supports the camshaft where it rides in the engine. If the oiling passages and bearing clearances are off, the cam can run too tight or not get enough oil, leading to accelerated wear.
hex driver
"...the common spec for that is legitimately just to put a four millimeter hex driver through it and if it fits, you're good."
They’re using a hex tool like a simple measuring stick to check that an oil passage isn’t blocked or too tight. If the tool fits, it suggests the oil can flow properly.
A hex driver is being used as a quick go/no-go gauge to verify oil passage clearance through the bearing/oil hole area. The idea is that if the specified driver size fits, the oiling passage is likely within the intended tolerances for that build.
oil passage alignment vs bearing shell openings
"...even when you put like the main bearings in, you'll notice the holes don't line up... So this is, you maybe see like one of the first pro tips... doesn't mean the hole through the bearing is supposed to be an eighth inch."
People often expect the oil holes in the engine and the bearing to line up exactly. This discussion says that’s not always how it’s designed—what matters is whether the oiling passages meet the build specs and allow flow.
This segment explains a common misconception: bearing oil holes and block oil holes may not visually line up perfectly, yet still be correct due to designed offsets and different hole sizes. Pro builders rely on specs and clearance checks rather than assuming “perfect alignment” is required.
oil holes
"...this is, you maybe see like one of the first pro tips, the oil bearings, just because there's a hole in the block that's an eighth inch, doesn't mean the hole through the bearing is supposed to be an eighth inch."
Oil holes are the channels that send oil to the moving parts. The important takeaway is that the hole you see in the engine block isn’t always the same size as the opening in the bearing itself.
Oil holes are the passages that route oil from the block to components like main and cam bearings. The key point here is that the hole size in the block doesn’t necessarily match the hole size through the bearing shell—design tolerances and oiling strategy can differ.
aftermarket bearing manufacturers
"...basically the aftermarket bearing manufacturers have copied the common specifications. Maybe they've made changes as pro builders over the years have suggested things."
Not all bearings are made the same, but many aftermarket brands follow the same oiling and fitment specs that builders trust. If you choose reputable bearings, they’re usually designed to work as intended.
Aftermarket bearing makers often copy the “common specs” used by experienced builders and OEM-like designs. Over time, pro builder feedback can lead to small changes, but the core oiling geometry is typically consistent if you buy the right parts.
brushes through there
"...And so yeah, I'll run some brushes through there. Get it good and clean."
Running brushes through oil passages is a cleaning step to remove debris and ensure oil can flow freely to bearings. It’s a practical part of preparing an engine for assembly, especially when tolerances and oiling paths are critical.
deburr
"[334.4s] First of all, if your old engine was a performance build and someone staked [339.5s] the oil galley plugs in, make sure that you remove any, like you take a grinder, [345.1s] whatever, and deburr the stakes that they were, they had that way. [348.8s] It doesn't put a score through your oil galley plug cause a leak."
Deburr means smooth out the rough, sharp edges left from grinding or dents. Here, it’s important because rough edges can stop the plug from sealing and can cause oil to leak. Taking the time to deburr helps the new plug fit correctly.
Deburring means removing sharp edges and raised material left behind after cutting, grinding, or staking. In this context, deburring the stake marks helps prevent damage to the plug and improves sealing. It also reduces the chance of creating a leak path in the oil passage.
refresh it
"[360.4s] They think that they're helping them that way. [363.1s] And when you go to refresh it, if those stake marks are there, when you go to [367.6s] pound a new oil galley plug in there, like you said, it'll, it'll cause a leak. [372.3s] We've been there and done that."
In engine-building context, “refresh it” usually means disassembling, inspecting, and reassembling components (often with new parts) to restore reliability. The key point here is that prep work on oil passage sealing surfaces should be done before final cleaning and reassembly. Skipping steps like removing stake marks can turn a “refresh” into a leak problem.
thread chaser kit
"[377.2s] Otherwise you're then now, and something half butt cleaning it again to fix your [381.7s] grinding. I would a hundred percent recommend is get yourself a thread chaser kit. [385.2s] You can go on Amazon again. [386.2s] I'm so cheap for just a cheap one. [388.4s] And just chase every single hole in the block. [391.2s] Then a, if you have a stripped hole, then you can fix it before you've cleaned"
A thread chaser is a tool that cleans up the screw threads in a hole. If threads are a little messed up, the plug may not seat right and could leak. Using a thread chaser helps make sure the new plug goes in smoothly and seals.
A thread chaser kit is used to clean and restore damaged threads without removing extra material like a tap would. Chasing the holes in the block helps ensure the new plugs thread in correctly and seal. It’s especially useful before final cleaning so you can address stripped threads or debris in the passages.
file rings
"What about, I mean, you like to file rings before you actually clean the block. I do. I kind of think that's really before I clean, final clean."
“Filing rings” means adjusting the ends of the piston rings so they fit the cylinder with the right gap. The goal is to prevent binding when the engine heats up and to help the rings seal well.
Filing piston rings refers to carefully trimming or end-gapping rings to achieve the correct clearance in the cylinder. This is done before final cleaning so the rings and cylinder surfaces are ready for proper fit and sealing.
thread chasing
"There's a few things I like to do first, like you said, go through, check all your threads, make sure that stuff's done. I mean, you're putting rings in and out a whole bunch of times when you're threading them and getting your, set your clearances."
Thread chasing means cleaning up the screw threads so bolts go in smoothly. It helps prevent cross-threading and makes sure parts tighten down evenly.
Thread chasing is the process of running a correct tap or thread tool through fastener threads to remove burrs, old thread sealant, or damage. It helps ensure bolts and studs seat correctly and that torque readings are consistent when you reassemble an engine.
cylinder wall
"So I'll kind of like wipe down like some break clean, the upper bore of the cylinder wall, and then I'll do my, my rings that way I have that done. And then I can file final clean it."
The cylinder wall is the inside surface of the engine where the piston moves. If it’s dirty or damaged, the rings won’t seal well and the engine can wear out faster.
The cylinder wall is the machined surface the piston and rings run against. Proper cleaning and inspection of the cylinder wall are critical because debris or poor surface condition can prevent rings from sealing and can accelerate wear.
oil pump passage
"So once again, pro tip on this modification. So there's an inspection begin with, then I would say any modifications, thread chasing you're doing. I like to port the oil pump passage."
The oil pump passage is a pathway oil travels through inside the engine. Porting it means smoothing or enlarging that pathway so oil can move more easily.
An oil pump passage is the internal channel that routes oil from the pump to the rest of the lubrication system. Porting or modifying it is a common performance/reliability step aimed at improving oil flow and reducing restrictions.
porting cylinder heads
"I like to cut those edges back so that I'm, you know, I like porting cylinder heads. So I want my oil system to have the best chance of flow."
Porting is when you reshape the inside passages of the cylinder head. That helps air and fuel move through more easily, which can make the engine breathe better.
Porting cylinder heads means reshaping the intake and exhaust passages to improve airflow. The goal is to reduce restrictions so the engine can move more air/fuel mixture (or exhaust) efficiently, which can support higher power and better throttle response.
oil system
"So I want my oil system to have the best chance of flow. And the most important, in my opinion, is on the suction side to get the flow."
Your oil system is how the engine gets oil to the moving parts. If oil flow or pressure isn’t right, the engine can wear out faster or even fail.
The oil system is the network of passages, pump, pickup, and components that deliver lubrication and manage oil pressure/flow. In performance builds, oil system design is critical because it affects both lubrication reliability and how well the engine can sustain power under load.
suction side
"And the most important, in my opinion, is on the suction side to get the flow. Cause that's where it'll cavitate and separate on the pressure side."
The suction side is where the oil pump “pulls” oil from the pan. If it can’t pull oil smoothly, you can get air/vapor in the oil, and lubrication suffers.
The suction side is the portion of the oil pickup/pump inlet where the pump draws oil in. If oil flow is restricted there, the pump can pull in vapor bubbles (cavitation) or allow oil to separate, which reduces effective lubrication and can cause pressure/flow problems.
cavitate
"Cause that's where it'll cavitate and separate on the pressure side. It's going to make another PSI and, and hopefully push through that on the suction side."
Cavitation is when the oil starts to form tiny bubbles because pressure drops too low. Those bubbles can collapse and mess up oil flow, so the engine doesn’t get proper lubrication.
Cavitation is when vapor bubbles form in a liquid due to local low pressure, then collapse as pressure rises. In an oil system, cavitation can aerate the oil and reduce lubrication effectiveness, potentially leading to accelerated wear or oil pressure instability.
port that
"So I like to port that. So obviously you do that first. Yep."
They’re talking about reshaping or improving the passage paths so oil can move better. The idea is to fix the flow first before moving on to other steps.
Here, “port that” refers to modifying passages (likely oil passages/pickup-related flow paths) to improve oil movement. The emphasis is on doing the flow-path work early so the rest of the build benefits from better oil delivery.
oil galley passages
"Some guys like to thread and tap their oil galley passages. They don't like the little pressed in oil galley plugs."
Oil galley passages are the internal channels in the engine block that route oil to bearings and other components. In performance builds, builders may modify these passages to improve flow and reduce restrictions.
thread and tap
"Some guys like to thread and tap their oil galley passages. They don't like the little pressed in oil galley plugs."
Threading and tapping means cutting threads into a hole so a matching bolt or fitting can screw in. In engine oiling work, it’s often used to convert a passage closure from a pressed-in plug to a threaded plug for better control and serviceability.
oil accumulator
"If you're going to run an oil accumulator, some guys run those acu-sum things on like a race truck that has hard deceleration."
An oil accumulator is like a small backup oil tank. It helps keep oil available when the truck is braking hard and oil sloshes away from the pickup.
An oil accumulator is a reservoir that helps maintain oil supply during extreme conditions like hard braking or rapid deceleration. Race applications use them to reduce the chance of oil starvation when oil shifts away from the pickup.
MPT
"If you need a good half inch MPT or three eighths MPT, three eighths MPT,"
MPT is a type of screw thread used for fittings. Using the right thread size helps the plug or fitting seal correctly so oil doesn’t leak.
MPT typically means a tapered pipe thread size (often used for fittings and plugs). Specifying MPT sizes helps ensure the correct hardware is used so the fitting seals properly and doesn’t leak under oil pressure.
pre modifications
"So yeah. Yeah, it's good. So once you're, once you've kind of done your pre modifications, you know, we're talking about cleaning, brushing and stuff."
Before you start assembling the engine, you do some prep work first. That usually means cleaning and checking the parts so everything fits and works right later.
“Pre modifications” refers to the work you do to an engine block before the actual build steps begin. In practice, it often means cleaning, inspecting, and preparing surfaces so later machining and assembly go smoothly.
cleaning, brushing
"So once you're, once you've kind of done your pre modifications, you know, we're talking about cleaning, brushing and stuff. I do cylinder wall preparation quite a bit."
Cleaning and brushing are about removing dirt and leftover debris from the engine parts. This matters because leftover grime can cause wear and problems once the engine is running.
Cleaning and brushing are early block-prep steps used to remove machining debris, oil, and contaminants from critical surfaces. Doing this thoroughly helps prevent grit from getting into bearings, rings, and oil passages during assembly.
Total Seal ring
"And I put on that total seal ring. That green, the green, it's kind of a graphite type product."
Total Seal ring is a type of piston ring brand. Piston rings sit between the piston and the cylinder wall to keep combustion pressure from leaking out and to help control oil. Using the right ring and installing it correctly helps the engine seal well.
Total Seal is a brand of piston rings, commonly used in performance and rebuild builds. The “ring” refers to the sealing rings that control compression and oil control between the piston and cylinder wall. In a build, ring choice and installation details can affect sealing and wear.
graphite type product
"That green, the green, it's kind of a graphite type product. Yeah. It's a dry product because you kind of insult a little bit WD-40."
They’re talking about a special coating that’s used during engine assembly. It’s meant to reduce friction and protect metal surfaces while you’re putting parts together. The color and texture help them judge whether the right material is present.
The speaker describes a green, graphite-like product used during assembly. This sounds like a coating/lube applied to cylinder walls or related surfaces to manage friction and protect surfaces during initial assembly. The “dry product” comment suggests it’s not a traditional wet oil-based lubricant.
WD-40
"It's a dry product because you kind of insult a little bit WD-40. And if it's green, it's good."
WD-40 is a spray product people commonly use for loosening things or light lubrication. In an engine build, it’s usually not the final “right” lubricant for bearings and critical surfaces. The host is saying it’s used a little, but the main idea is the other coating.
WD-40 is a widely known aerosol product often used as a light lubricant or penetrant. In engine assembly contexts, it may be used temporarily to help with cleaning or initial lubrication, but it’s not a substitute for proper assembly lube where required. The speaker implies it’s used sparingly alongside the graphite-type product.
main journals
"I'm measuring the, the, uh, rod, the journal, the rod journals, the main journals, the bearings, all that stuff."
Main journals are the crankshaft bearing surfaces that ride in the main bearings. Their condition and size directly affect bearing clearance and oil film thickness. Measuring them helps determine whether the crank needs machining (or bearings need selecting) to achieve the target clearance.
rod journals
"I'm measuring the, the, uh, rod, the journal, the rod journals, the main journals, the bearings, all that stuff."
Rod journals are where the connecting rods attach to the crankshaft. The bearings there need the right tiny clearance so oil can keep everything lubricated. Measuring them helps prevent premature wear.
Rod journals are the crankshaft bearing surfaces for the connecting rods. Like main journals, their dimensions and surface finish affect bearing clearance and lubrication. Measuring rod journals is part of setting up the bottom end so the engine has correct oiling and durability.
clearances
"So when we're measuring, this would be a great time to talk about clearances a little bit. So let's just start at the bottom end because that's the bottom of the engine."
Clearances are the small gaps between parts inside the engine. Those gaps matter because they let oil flow and keep metal from rubbing. Getting the clearances right is a big part of building an engine that lasts.
“Clearances” refers to the engineered gaps between moving engine parts, such as bearing clearances. These gaps control how the oil film behaves and whether parts will run smoothly without overheating or scuffing. The speaker is setting up a bottom-end discussion focused on measuring and achieving correct clearances.
girdle
"So if it has a, if it has a girdle or something fancy, you need to put it like as if it's fully assembled, it's going to take time."
A girdle is an aftermarket or performance reinforcement piece that ties main bearing caps together to improve rigidity. Because it changes how the block and caps behave under torque, it can affect measured bearing clearances. The speaker notes you may need to install it “as if fully assembled” before measuring.
crank journals
"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."
The crank journals are the smooth “riding surfaces” on the crankshaft. Bearings sit on them, and the tiny gap between them controls how well oil can lubricate the engine.
Crank journals are the machined bearing surfaces on the crankshaft where the engine’s main and rod bearings ride. Measuring them is critical because journal size and roundness directly affect oil clearance, which influences lubrication and bearing life.
vertical oil clearance
"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."
Oil clearance is the tiny space between the crank and the bearing. “Vertical” just means they’re measuring it in one direction, and the right gap helps oil keep everything from wearing out too fast.
Vertical oil clearance is the measured gap between a bearing and the corresponding journal surface in the vertical direction. In a performance rebuild, getting this clearance within spec helps ensure the bearing gets a stable oil film for lubrication and heat control.
mains
"Then you're going to take that on a set of mics, and then you're going to mic the crank journals on the mains and see what your vertical oil clearance is."
The mains are the bearings that hold the crankshaft in place inside the engine block. The oil gap there matters because it keeps the crankshaft from rubbing directly on the bearings.
“Mains” refers to the main bearings and the main bearing journals that support the crankshaft in the engine block. Oil clearance at the mains is a key dimension for preventing metal-to-metal contact and ensuring consistent lubrication under load.
spreadsheet
"And so two parts of that, I, I'm a big believer in just writing down your numbers... if you have a spreadsheet and that way it also does a lot of the math for you."
A spreadsheet is just a structured way to write down measurements. It helps you keep everything organized and do the calculations correctly instead of relying on memory or mental math.
Using a spreadsheet to record measured crank journal dimensions and resulting clearances helps reduce math errors and makes it easier to compare journals consistently. It also creates a clear build record for troubleshooting later if something doesn’t behave as expected.
dial board gauge
"...I'll zero it on number one, and then I'll zero my, um, dial board gauge on that same number one."
A dial bore gauge (often called a dial board gauge in casual speech) is a precision measuring tool used to check internal dimensions and clearances. Here it’s being zeroed on a known reference journal and then used to compare other journals for consistent oil clearance.
diagonal check
"And so then something I do as well is when you got that dial board gauge in there, also do a diagonal check... if the caps offset, you might only have a thou clearance or 10,000 clearance on a diagonal with the vertical being correct."
This is a “double-check” measurement in a different direction. It helps confirm the bearing cap is installed correctly, because a wrong or offset cap can make the gap uneven even if one measurement looks fine.
A diagonal check is a verification step to catch misalignment or mixed-up bearing caps. Even if the vertical clearance looks correct, an offset cap can create different clearance at other points, which can lead to uneven bearing loading.
RPM
"And so you need more room for stuff to move and there's more RPM. And with more power, stuff's going to heat up faster bearings."
RPM means how fast the engine spins. When RPM is higher, the engine parts move faster and heat up more. That can make it harder for oil to keep everything separated, so builders plan for it.
RPM (revolutions per minute) is how fast the engine is spinning. Higher RPM increases heat and load on bearings and can reduce the stability of the oil film. That’s why performance engines often adjust clearances and oil choice for high-RPM operation.
oil film
"And with more power, stuff's going to heat up faster bearings. It is going to push through the oil film and touch the bearing once and while it's going to put more heat there."
The oil film is the thin layer of oil that separates metal surfaces inside an engine bearings. Under high RPM and load, the oil film can thin out; if it fails, the bearing can contact the shaft. This is why clearance and oil viscosity are so important in performance builds.
idle oil pressure
"the downside of that for a guy building a tow truck or street engine, big clearance means when your oil is hot and that idle where your oil pump spinning slow, your idle oil pressure will be lower with big bearing clearance."
Idle oil pressure is how much pressure the oil pump makes when the engine is just idling. If the engine has bigger clearances, oil can escape more, so pressure drops. Lower idle pressure can be a problem for daily driving.
Idle oil pressure is the oil pressure the engine maintains when it’s running at idle speed. With larger bearing clearance, oil can leak past the bearings more easily, so pressure can drop—especially when the oil pump is turning slowly at idle. That’s a key downside for street or tow-truck use compared with race-only setups.
straight 50
"like a 20, 50 or a straight 50. I mean, they're running a much, much thicker viscosity to high viscosity to make up for that very problem."
Straight 50 is an oil that doesn’t change viscosity much with temperature—it stays thick. That thickness can help protect bearings when the engine is hot and running hard. But it can flow poorly when cold, which is why it’s not great for commuting.
Straight 50 refers to a single-grade oil that stays at a relatively thick viscosity across operating temperatures. The speaker contrasts it with multi-grade oils and notes racers may use it to maintain oil film strength when clearances are larger. The implication is reduced cold flow, making it less suitable for daily driving.
20W-50
"Which is why when most people do race engines, the big clearance is running a much heavier oil, thicker oil, like a 20, 50 or a straight 50."
20W-50 is a thicker engine oil grade. Builders use it to keep oil protection strong when the engine is running hard or has bigger clearances. It can be less friendly when the engine is cold, which is why it’s not ideal for everyday driving.
20W-50 is a common heavy-duty engine oil grade (a thicker oil) often used in high-load or race applications. In the context of this discussion, it’s mentioned as a thicker viscosity choice to compensate for reduced idle oil pressure caused by larger bearing clearance. The downside is typically worse cold flow and less ideal behavior for daily driving.
viscosity
"they're running a much, much thicker viscosity to high viscosity to make up for that very problem. It doesn't run as well."
Viscosity is a measure of how thick an oil is and how it flows at different temperatures. Higher-viscosity (thicker) oils can help maintain oil film strength when clearances are larger and oil pressure at idle is lower. The tradeoff is that thicker oil can flow worse when cold, which hurts drivability and lubrication during warm-up.
race engine vs street truck
"It's one of the reasons you don't put a race engine, your street truck, you don't put a race transmission behind your tow truck."
A race engine is tuned and built for hard use in a controlled way. A street truck has different everyday conditions, so using race-only choices can cause reliability problems.
This is a reminder that a “race engine” is typically built with different clearances, materials, and operating assumptions than an engine intended for street use. Race parts can be less tolerant of heat cycles, low-load driving, and long-duration towing.
build for what you're doing
"Like as always build for what you're doing. Yeah. So then the clearances wise, the loosest I've ever seen on an engine that was running fine was like six thousandths main clearance."
Don’t build a truck for “maximum performance” if it’s meant to tow or drive daily. Parts that work great for racing can wear out faster or behave differently under normal loads.
The hosts are emphasizing that engine and drivetrain parts should be selected based on the vehicle’s actual job—street use, towing, or racing. A race-focused setup often has different durability and operating requirements than a street/tow setup, so matching the build to the duty cycle is key.
main clearance
"So then the clearances wise, the loosest I've ever seen on an engine that was running fine was like six thousandths main clearance. Some of those big mega power builds... they like to really loosen up that clearance."
Main clearance is the tiny gap where the crankshaft rides on the main bearings. Getting it right helps the engine stay lubricated and prevents overheating or premature wear.
Main clearance is the gap between the crankshaft’s main journals and the engine’s main bearings. It affects oil pressure, lubrication stability, and how safely the engine tolerates heat and load.
mega power builds
"Some of those big mega power builds I see from like Midwest builders, they like to really loosen up that clearance. The tightest I think I've seen... down at two thousandths and it was fine, but it made me nervous."
Some builders chasing huge horsepower change the internal clearances more than you’d see on a normal build. That can help in extreme conditions, but it can also make the engine less forgiving if it’s not set up right.
The hosts reference “mega power builds” from builders who loosen clearances more aggressively. This highlights a common tradeoff in high-output builds: pushing clearances to manage oiling and thermal behavior under extreme conditions, but potentially increasing risk if the engine isn’t built and tuned for it.
rod bearings
"Three to four rod bearings. Yep. Three to four on the mains, like kind of like towards the like three to quarter to three and a half."
Rod bearings are the bearings that connect the pistons’ motion to the crankshaft. They need the right fit and oil supply so the engine doesn’t wear out quickly.
Rod bearings sit between the connecting rods and the crankshaft, handling high loads as pistons move. Bearing clearances and bearing selection strongly influence oiling, wear rate, and how the engine survives high power or sustained stress.
HX
"Now, for the guys that don't know, H is an upgraded kind of performance bearing. And then HX means it has an extra thousandth of clearance. Yep. If you use both the upper and lower half, if you only use half of an HX,"
HX is a thicker/looser bearing option that gives you a bit more clearance than the standard H bearing. Builders use it like a dial—choosing HX (or part of it) to get the exact spacing they want inside the engine.
“HX” is a bearing variant that provides extra clearance compared with the standard “H” bearing. The host describes it as having an additional thousandth of clearance, and using only part of an HX stack-up to fine-tune clearance in smaller increments.
H bearings
"that if you're building an engine that uses H bearings, you have H and HX. You can mix and match. You can put an H on the bottom, HX on the top."
H bearings are special engine bearings that are meant to fit a tighter, more controlled clearance than stock. When you build an engine, that clearance matters because it affects how smoothly the crank moves and how well the engine stays lubricated.
“H bearings” refers to an upgraded performance bearing used in an engine build to control internal clearances. In practice, builders choose bearing thickness/clearance targets so the crankshaft and connecting components run smoothly without excessive play.
dial in clearance
"And that way you can really nail your clearance the whole way across the block. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your clearance is like basically spot on where you want them."
“Dial in clearance” describes the process of using measurements and bearing selection to achieve a precise, repeatable clearance target. The episode frames it as predictable and spot-on when you record journal thicknesses and then mix bearing halves (H/HX) to match the desired spacing.
main journal thicknesses
"because you measured all of you measured and recorded all your main galley or main journal thicknesses. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your"
The main journal is the part of the crankshaft that rides on the main bearings. Measuring its thickness helps you pick bearings that create the right tiny gap for proper lubrication.
“Main journal thicknesses” are measurements of the crankshaft’s main bearing contact surfaces. Accurate journal measurements let the builder choose bearing thickness/clearance combinations (H/HX) so the final bearing clearance is correct and consistent across the engine.
main galley
"and so, so yeah, you can just like, because you measured all of you measured and recorded all your main galley or main journal thicknesses. Now you can go in and, you know, hybridize some HHX, whatever, to get all your"
This is about the main bearing area—where the crankshaft sits in the engine. Builders measure the crank’s journal surfaces so they can choose the right bearings and get the correct fit.
“Main galley” appears to refer to the main bearing journal area and/or the oiling passages associated with the main bearings. The host mentions measuring and recording main journal thicknesses so the builder can select bearing combinations to hit the desired clearances.
800 horsepower build
"And like, like say, I liked between like three, three, three and three three quarter for like a lower call, like 800 horsepower build. And then you start talking higher, like opening up a little bit, just so"
They’re talking about how engine-building choices can change depending on how much power you’re trying to make. For a big-number build, you may want slightly different clearances so the engine can handle heat and stress.
The host uses an “800 horsepower build” as a reference point for how much bearing/clearance strategy they prefer at different power levels. The idea is that higher-output builds may need slightly different clearance targets to ensure there’s room for parts to move under load and heat.
non water cooled block (solid block)
"“And maybe on a, on a non water cooled block, like a solid block, you know, and things are moving around, you know, and you have to put it, you know, maybe that's where that would make sense.”"
Most engines use coolant to keep temperatures under control. If a block is described as “solid” or “non water cooled,” it means the usual cooling approach isn’t there, so heat builds differently. That can change how much parts expand, which is why clearances might need different setup in extreme cases.
A “non water cooled block” or “solid block” implies an engine block design without conventional liquid-cooling passages in the area being discussed. In extreme-duty builds, cooling strategy affects how the block and rotating assembly expand under heat, which in turn influences clearances like bearing gaps. The speaker suggests that more radical clearance changes may only be necessary when the cooling/heat behavior is significantly different from a typical water-cooled setup.
sled pull trucks
"“We haven't made top level sled pull trucks either. Both in the Cummins range, which is quite wide.”"
Sled pulling is when a truck tries to pull a heavy sled as hard as it can. The engine is under heavy load for a long time, which can stress it more than normal driving. So engine builders often set up clearances and parts differently for that kind of use.
Sled pulling is a motorsport where a vehicle drags a heavy sled, demanding sustained high torque and traction. Engines built for sled pull typically see different stress patterns than a street truck, including long periods of high load at relatively low speeds. That’s why builders may talk about tighter clearances, stronger components, and more conservative limits depending on the class and cooling setup.
Cummins
"“Both in the Cummins range, which is quite wide. You got almost everybody covered in that range.”"
Cummins makes diesel engines that show up in a lot of trucks. When the speaker says “Cummins range,” they mean different Cummins engine types/builds. They’re talking about how much you need to change clearances and parts depending on how hard you’ll use the engine.
Cummins is a major manufacturer of diesel engines, widely used in trucks and performance builds. In the context of this episode, “Cummins range” refers to the variety of Cummins engine families and how builders tailor clearances and components based on the intended duty cycle (street, towing, or competition).
torque the rod bolts down
"“Now, when you check rods, the way you would do that is you would then put the bearing halves in the rod, you would torque the rod bolts down.”"
The bolts that hold the rod cap on have to be tightened to the right spec. If they’re too loose, the bearing can move and wear out; if they’re too tight, the parts can distort or run hot. That’s why builders torque them carefully and usually use new hardware.
Rod bolts must be torqued to a specified value (and often in a specific sequence) because they control the clamping force that sets bearing alignment and oil clearance. Many builders also use new bolts and follow the manufacturer’s torque procedure to ensure consistent stretch and strength. Incorrect torque can lead to bearing failure, oil starvation, or crankshaft scoring.
rod vice with soft jaws
"“So a lot of people have a nice, like a rod vice that's got soft jaws to clamp the rod because you get some of these aftermarket, you know, performance”"
A rod vice is like a specialized clamp for holding a connecting rod while you work on it. Soft jaws are the cushioned/grippy inserts that hold the rod without scratching or bending it. That helps keep the rod straight and prevents problems later when the engine is assembled.
A rod vice is a clamping tool used to hold a connecting rod securely during inspection or assembly. “Soft jaws” are replaceable, non-marring jaw inserts that grip the rod without damaging the bearing surfaces or deforming the rod. This matters because connecting rods are precision-machined parts, and even small damage can affect bearing alignment and clearance.
connecting rods
"rods, it torques 120, 530 foot pounds... That's hard to hold a rod to 130 foot pounds with a big old tank of a torque wrench."
Connecting rods are the parts that connect the pistons to the crankshaft. When you build an engine, how you torque and assemble the rods affects how the bearings sit and how smoothly the crankshaft spins.
Connecting rods (often shortened to “rods”) transmit force from the pistons to the crankshaft. In this segment, the hosts discuss tightening rods to a target torque and the practical steps that affect bearing clearance and fitment.
torque wrench
"That's hard to hold a rod to 130 foot pounds with a big old tank of a torque wrench."
A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness instead of “by feel.” That matters on engines because the bolts need to be tight enough to hold parts safely, but not so tight that they cause problems.
A torque wrench is a tool that tightens fasteners to a specific torque value. In engine building, it helps ensure rod bolts and related hardware are clamped correctly to prevent failures and maintain proper bearing clearances.
rod clearance
"measure the clearance... all the journals and sometimes you play musical rod bearings to get your rod clearance."
Rod clearance is the tiny space between the bearing and the crankshaft. The engine needs the right amount of space so oil can get in and keep everything from rubbing directly.
Rod clearance is the small gap between the rod bearing and the crankshaft journal. Builders measure it to ensure the oil film is thick enough for lubrication while avoiding excessive clearance that can reduce oil pressure and increase wear.
dimple die
"I like to mark on the end either with a dimple die or paint because you can flip the caps around on some rods..."
A dimple die is a tool that makes a small mark on a metal part. Builders use it to keep track of which cap goes with which rod so everything goes back together correctly.
A dimple die is a marking tool used to create small, repeatable indentations on parts. Here it’s used to mark rod caps/ends so they can be reassembled in the correct orientation, especially when caps can be swapped.
Carillo rod
"You have to be kind of dumb to assemble a waggler rod backwards, but like a Carillo rod, yeah, absolutely. It's just a little dowel thing."
Carrillo makes aftermarket connecting rods. The point being made is that some rods are designed so they only fit together one correct way, and mixing them up can cause poor alignment.
Carrillo (often misspelled as “Carillo” in transcripts) is a well-known aftermarket connecting-rod manufacturer. The mention here is about rod design features (like dowel/pin alignment) that affect how the rods can be assembled and oriented.
number them one through six
"So I like to mark the rod ends before I go, something I do is I actually number them one through six."
Numbering rods is a way to remember which parts go together. Because each rod and cap can be a little different, labeling helps you put them back exactly the same way.
Numbering connecting rods (and matching caps) is an assembly practice that preserves the original fitment and orientation. Since each rod/cap pair can have slightly different machining and wear patterns, labeling helps maintain consistent clearances across cylinders.
piston rods
"So I actually write one on both the rod and the cap on the same side with a permanent mark so that, so that I know... you can't put the cap on one rod onto another rod. You need to keep the cap with the rod. It was done because that was put together, torqued and honed to size."
The connecting rod is the part that links the piston to the crankshaft. The rod cap is made to match that specific rod, so you should keep them together—otherwise the fit inside the engine can be slightly wrong.
Piston rods (connecting rods) are matched pairs that are machined and assembled to work together. During factory assembly, rods and caps are torqued and honed to a specific size, so swapping caps between rods can change bearing fit and roundness.
keeping matched rod/cap sets together
"And, and anytime I pull that engine out or whatever, another thing you need to know about piston rods, you can't put the cap on one rod onto another rod. You need to keep the cap with the rod... it'll go on there, but it's not going to be round."
Think of the rod cap and rod like a matched pair. Even if you can physically swap them, the fit inside the engine may not be right, which can hurt reliability.
The segment emphasizes that connecting rod caps must stay with their original rods because the assembly process (torque and honing) creates a specific bearing fit. Even if parts “bolt together,” mismatching can lead to incorrect bearing geometry and reduced durability.
torqued and honed to size
"You need to keep the cap with the rod. It was done because that was put together, torqued and honed to size."
Some engine parts are assembled with exact torque settings and then finished to the right dimensions. That’s how they get the correct “fit” and clearance—so swapping parts can make the fit too tight or too loose.
When connecting rods are assembled, the bolts are torqued to a precise specification and the bearing surfaces are honed to the final dimensions. This creates the correct clearance and roundness for the crankshaft journals, which is why mixing parts can cause problems.
serial numbers
"So you'll notice like on your factory Cummins rods, they have serial numbers on the side and that's really the cap and the rod match. So some of the aftermarket doesn't."
Some factory parts are marked so you can tell which pieces belong together. If the rod and cap are a matched set, the serial numbers help you keep them paired correctly.
Factory Cummins connecting rods may include serial numbers that indicate the rod and its matching cap. That matching is important because the cap and rod are treated as a matched set for the final machining and assembly.
pin clearance
"Now, to be technically correct, you should also measure the pin clearance, which is especially important if you're doing factory rods and someone reconditioned them... generally you want to stay in that, I'd say thousandth to down half range is pretty normal pin clearance"
Pin clearance is the tiny space between the piston’s pin and the rod’s bushing. It needs to be just right: too tight and it can stick when the engine gets hot, too loose and it can rattle or wear faster. That’s why people measure it before final assembly.
Pin clearance is the small designed gap between a piston’s wrist (gudgeon) pin and its connecting-rod bushing/bore. Too little clearance can cause binding when parts expand with heat; too much clearance can increase noise and wear. Builders measure it with precision tools and compare it to the spec for the rod/pin combination.
connecting-rod bushing
"...especially important if you're doing factory rods and someone reconditioned them... put a... in the, the pin bushing and, and that now pin clearance is it's a wider topic."
A connecting-rod bushing is the bearing surface inside the rod that the wrist pin rides in (common in many rebuilds). When rods are reconditioned, the bushing may be replaced or resized, which directly affects pin clearance. Correct bushing fit and measurement are essential for durability and quiet operation.
clearance trade-off (heat expansion vs noise/wear)
"...you can go as tight... I would not recommend somebody go less than a thousandth... you get 2000s when it's cold, you might actually get a little bit of a slop or almost like a rod knock noise."
The segment describes a clearance trade-off: tighter clearances reduce slop and noise, but they risk interference when parts expand with heat. Looser clearances avoid binding but can increase cold slop and contribute to knock-like noises and wear. Engine builders tune clearances based on the intended use (street vs race) and operating temperatures.
rod knock noise
"...the problem is you get 2000s when it's cold, you might actually get a little bit of a slop or almost like a rod knock noise."
Rod knock noise is a knocking sound from the engine bottom end. It can happen when parts have too much looseness, especially when the engine is cold. If you hear it, it often means the clearances aren’t right.
Rod knock noise is an audible knocking/tapping sound that can occur when there’s excessive clearance or worn components in the connecting-rod/piston-pin area. In this segment, the host notes that too much clearance when cold can create slop that sounds like a knock. It’s a clue that the fitment/clearance may be out of spec.
piston-to-wall clearance
"We talked about clearance, um, part of your, your checking and clearance, you're going to want to check your piston to wall clearance."
This is the tiny space between the piston and the cylinder wall. If the gap is too tight, the piston can rub and overheat; if it’s too loose, you can get extra wear and poor performance. Machinists measure it so the engine fits correctly once it’s hot.
Piston-to-wall clearance is the small gap between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall when the engine is assembled. It matters because pistons expand with heat, and the right clearance prevents scuffing while still controlling piston movement and wear. Builders measure it during machining to ensure the engine will run reliably under load.
trust, but verify
"Hopefully you told the machine shop what you wanted there, but we should hit on that a little bit, trust, but verify."
It means you shouldn’t just assume everything is correct—you should double-check the important measurements. In engine building, a small mistake can lead to big damage, so verifying helps you catch problems early.
“Trust, but verify” is the idea that you can rely on a machine shop’s work, but you should still confirm critical measurements yourself. In engine building, small dimensional errors can cause major problems, so independent checking reduces the risk of expensive mistakes. It’s especially relevant when clearances and tolerances are tight.
piston skirt
"Like if we're machining the block, this is the way you do it is you, you measure the skirt of the piston."
The piston skirt is the part of the piston that slides along the cylinder wall. Since it’s the part that actually fits inside the cylinder, measuring it helps you confirm the engine has the right clearance. That’s important to prevent rubbing and excessive wear.
The piston skirt is the lower portion of the piston that guides it in the cylinder. Measuring the skirt is a common way to determine the clearance to the cylinder wall because that’s where the fit and wear behavior are most critical. Skirt shape and taper affect how clearance changes from top to bottom.
oblong
"If you look at a piston, it is, it's a big taper. It's oblong and it's tapered all the way up."
An “oblong” piston isn’t perfectly round like a circle. It’s shaped so the fit and clearance are right in different directions. That’s why you can’t just measure one spot and assume everything is fine.
“Oblong” describes a piston shape that isn’t perfectly round—its diameter differs in two directions. This helps control how the piston behaves as it heats and expands, and it affects clearance at different points in the cylinder. Engine builders account for this by measuring in the correct orientation and locations.
piston taper
"If you look at a piston, it is, it's a big taper. It's oblong and it's tapered all the way up."
Pistons aren’t perfectly the same thickness from top to bottom—they’re shaped with a taper. That means the gap to the cylinder changes depending on where you measure. Measuring the right spot gives the most accurate clearance.
Piston taper refers to the piston being wider at one end and narrower at the other (often wider near the skirt bottom and tighter toward the top). Because the piston is tapered and also shaped to be slightly oblong, the clearance is not uniform at all heights. That’s why builders measure at specific locations to calculate the real running clearance.
Molly piston
"And if you look at like a coated skirt, like a Molly piston, they have a little window right there, right where they want you to measure."
A “Molly piston” usually means the piston skirt has a special coating to help it slide smoothly and resist wear. When you measure it, you want to avoid scratching that coating. That’s why some pistons have a marked area for measurement.
A “Molly piston” typically refers to a piston with a molybdenum-based coating on the skirt (often used to reduce friction and scuffing). Coated skirts can be sensitive to measurement technique because you don’t want to damage the coating. Some coated pistons include a specific “window” area so you can measure without scratching through the coating.
dial bore gauge
"And then you zero a set of dial or gauge on it and then you go in your bore... Yeah, I mean, a new, a new, uh, any modern machine shop should have zero problem getting, I mean, so tight, you can't measure it with a normal thousand dial bore gauge."
A dial bore gauge is a tool machinists use to measure the inside of an engine cylinder. It’s accurate enough to spot tiny differences between cylinders.
A dial bore gauge is a precision measuring tool used to measure the inside diameter of an engine cylinder bore. It’s designed to read very small changes so you can check bore size and shape accurately.
factory specs
"And there's factory specs. And I wish I could cite them off the bat. I want to say like it's kind of, there's a factory spec for how oblong and how much taper you can have."
Factory specs are the “allowed limits” for how accurate the cylinder and parts need to be. If you’re outside those limits, the engine may not run right or may wear out faster.
Factory specs are the official allowable tolerances for measurements like bore size, taper, and oblong. Using them is crucial because they define what’s acceptable for ring seal, piston clearance, and long-term durability.
thousandths
"same, like it's freaking sweet, but yeah, like, I want to say it's like two thousands of taper and was it like a thou or something of oblong or something... I think the minimum is around four thousandths, piston to wall clearance might even be on some of the newcomers might be like three and eight tenths or something just under four."
Thousandths are tiny measurements—like thousandths of an inch. Engine builders use them to set the small gaps that control how well the piston seals and how safely it runs when hot.
“Thousandths” refers to thousandths of an inch, a common measurement unit for engine clearances and tolerances. In performance diesel builds, small changes in thousandths can noticeably affect sealing, noise, and risk of contact.
Quick Serve
"like that quick serve comes quick serve has all those specs. I don't remember them off the bat, but just some general thumb, a stock, I think the minimum is around four thousandths"
Quick Serve is referenced as a source for engine specifications. In practice, builders use manufacturer spec databases to confirm acceptable clearances, tolerances, and service limits before machining or assembling an engine.
ring rock
"And honestly, the tighter the better, as far as longevity, there's less ring rock and whatnot, but at the same time, if you have any kind of a tone or a chip or anything, don't go on that bottom minimum spec."
Ring rock is when the piston rings don’t stay flat against the cylinder wall as well as they should. When that happens, the rings seal worse and the engine can wear faster.
Ring rock refers to the piston/ring assembly moving in a way that causes the rings to lose consistent contact with the cylinder wall. That can increase wear and blow-by, so builders try to balance clearances and ring fit to keep contact stable under heat and load.
clearance trade-off (too tight vs too loose)
"there's age long saying that like you make it too loose and you'll know, but you make it too tight and everyone will know it's too loose... like blow by whatever you make it too tight."
This segment highlights a key engine-building trade-off: tighter clearances can reduce wear and blow-by, but too-tight clearances risk rubbing/scuffing from thermal expansion or minor damage. Too-loose clearances can increase noise and blow-by, reducing longevity.
piston-to-cylinder clearance
"And so, you know, we'll make our, our, like our 800 horse block... Every engine I've ever pulled apart that like serious scuffing was a result of two tight pissed in a wall... So if you, if you need the clearance, I'd rather be on, I'd rather air on the big side than the small, because if you're a little bit small, it may not ruin your engine, but you'll scuff your cylinder walls."
This is the tiny space between the piston and the cylinder wall. If the gap is too tight, the piston can rub when everything heats up. If the gap is too loose, the rings don’t seal as well, so gases leak past (blow-by) and the engine loses efficiency.
Piston-to-cylinder clearance is the small gap between the piston and the cylinder wall. Too little clearance can cause scuffing or seizure as parts expand with heat; too much clearance can hurt ring sealing, increasing blow-by and reducing combustion pressure containment. Builders tune this gap based on piston size, cylinder condition, and how the engine will be used.
ring sale
"It's a better ring sale. So if you need the clearance... you'll scuff your cylinder walls. You have worse ring sale."
This sounds like they mean “ring seal,” which is how well the piston rings seal the gap between the piston and cylinder. If the seal isn’t good, gases leak past and the engine loses compression. That can also increase blow-by and make the engine less efficient.
“Ring sale” appears to refer to ring seal—how well the piston rings seal against the cylinder wall. Ring seal depends on correct clearances, cylinder finish, and ring condition; poor ring seal increases blow-by and lowers effective compression. In performance builds, ring seal is a key target when choosing piston-to-wall clearance.
combustion pressure containment
"You have more blow by you'll still drive and you can feel good that you have tight clearance and know that you have crappy combustion pressure containment."
This means keeping the engine’s combustion pressure from leaking out. If the piston rings don’t seal well, some pressure escapes, and the engine can’t make as much power. Good containment usually means better ring sealing.
Combustion pressure containment is the engine’s ability to keep high-pressure combustion gases where they belong—behind the piston. If ring seal is compromised (often from incorrect clearances), pressure leaks past the rings, reducing effective compression and power. This is why builders focus on clearance and ring sealing when chasing performance.
pissed in a wall clearance
"What I do is let's say I have eight thousandths pissed in a wall. I'll do that on two through four... And then six will be like eight point four, eight point five... But we get people all the time asked, pissed in a wall clearance."
This is about how much space there is between the piston and the cylinder wall. When the engine gets hot, the piston grows, so you need the right gap so it doesn’t rub and scuff. The speaker is saying they set that gap differently depending on which cylinder runs hotter.
“Pissed in a wall clearance” appears to be the speaker’s shorthand for a piston-to-wall (cylinder wall) clearance measurement. In engine building, that clearance affects how the piston expands with heat, which in turn impacts scuffing risk, compression, and wear. The host is describing how they “split” clearance across cylinders to manage heat and fit.
dial that in when you have your own machines and equipment
"So we kind of like pro level stuff there, but like you can, you can dial that in when you have your own machines and equipment."
They’re saying the exact fitment depends on having the right tools to measure and machine accurately. Without good equipment, it’s harder to get the clearances “just right.”
The speaker is emphasizing that achieving precise clearances requires proper tooling and measurement equipment. “Dialing it in” means iterating on machining and fitment until the engine’s tolerances are correct for the specific build. This is a key concept in performance engine building because small clearance changes can significantly affect reliability.
scuff
"Some guy was like, Oh, you, he's like, you don't have a cool and bypass on your, on your tow truck. He's like, you're going to scuff number six."
Scuffing is when metal starts rubbing and gets scratched or damaged. It usually happens when parts are too tight or not lubricated well enough. The speaker is trying to predict which cylinder is most likely to rub first.
“Scuff” refers to damage where the piston skirt or rings rub and create surface scoring, often from insufficient clearance, poor lubrication, or incorrect fit. The host is debating which cylinder would scuff first based on their clearance strategy and heat distribution. Preventing scuffing is a major goal when setting piston-to-wall clearance and related tolerances.
cool and bypass
"Some guy was like, Oh, you, he's like, you don't have a cool and bypass on your, on your tow truck. He's like, you're going to scuff number six."
This sounds like a setup meant to help keep things cool and to route fluid where it’s needed. If you don’t have enough cooling or the right flow path, one cylinder can run hotter and be more likely to rub and get damaged.
“Cool and bypass” likely refers to a cooling/oil bypass feature used to manage temperatures and lubrication flow in a diesel engine build. The speaker connects it to scuffing risk, implying that without adequate cooling/bypass strategy, a specific cylinder (number six) could run hot and rub. Exact meaning can vary by shop practice, but the intent is temperature and lubrication control.
cylinder-to-cylinder bore variation (number six bigger)
"We make number six cylinder a little bit bigger because we've learned that... So if they need eight on two, three and four, they need more than eight on number six."
The host describes intentionally making cylinder #6 slightly larger based on learned behavior, implying real-world manufacturing or distortion differences between cylinders. In practice, some blocks may require cylinder-specific machining targets to achieve the desired piston-to-wall clearance and consistent performance. This is why they provide a range of block dimensions rather than assuming every cylinder is identical.
torque plate
"Now the sticky point when you measure pissed in a wall clearance, if your block was torque plate owned and it's a 12 valve, once the torque plate comes off, it's not going to measure round."
When a cylinder block is tightened down, it flexes a little. A torque plate is a tool that bolts onto the block so the shop can bore/hone the cylinders while the block is under the same kind of pressure the head would create. That helps the cylinders stay the right shape once everything is assembled.
A torque plate is a thick metal plate bolted to an engine block to simulate the clamping forces that the cylinder head would apply. Machine shops use it during cylinder boring/honing so the bores end up round and correctly sized under real operating stresses. Without it, the block can distort and the bores may measure “egg shaped” after the plate is removed.
12 valve
"...if your block was torque plate owned and it's a 12 valve, once the torque plate comes off, it's not going to measure round."
A “12-valve” engine has a cylinder head design with 12 total valves. It’s a common way people identify certain Cummins diesel generations. Different head designs can affect how the block behaves when clamped, which is why machining checks matter.
“12 valve” refers to the cylinder head design with two valves per cylinder (for a total of 12 valves on a six-cylinder engine). In Cummins diesel circles, 12-valve engines are a common reference point for parts, machining practices, and build strategy. The speaker ties the torque-plate measurement issue specifically to a 12-valve block.
deck (deck surface)
"...you measure, so at the top of the bores where the deck, the, the torque plate is the most where it's going to be pulling."
The deck is the top surface of the engine block where the head bolts on. The clamping force is strongest near that area, so the cylinder shape can be slightly different there. Measuring near the top helps confirm the bore is correct.
The deck surface is the top face of the engine block where the cylinder head mounts. The speaker notes that the torque plate pulls hardest near the studs and deck area, so that’s where bore distortion is most likely to show up. Measuring at the top of the bores helps verify the machining where it matters most.
end gap / clearance measurement (within spec)
"That's why you use a 10 or what our seven, like it's pretty stiff and it doesn't want to flex around the piston because you're firing it to contour to the piston and it's just a good, like a dummy proof... And just make sure you're in the ballpark."
Engine builders measure tiny gaps very carefully. Even a small mistake can cause the parts to rub or not seal correctly once the engine heats up. That’s why they aim to match the manufacturer’s clearance specs.
The discussion emphasizes staying “in the ballpark” and not missing decimal points when setting clearances. In engine building, small clearance errors can cause big issues because parts expand with heat and load. That’s why builders measure carefully and follow spec ranges for components like piston rings.
piston ring clearance
"Cause we should move on a little bit from, we've talked about rings, piston, wall clearance. I'm talking about piston ring clearance. Piston ring clearance is another thing that really bites you."
The piston rings have a tiny gap when they’re put into the cylinder. That gap matters because the engine gets hot and parts expand. If the gap is too small, the rings can jam and cause problems instead of sealing properly.
Piston ring clearance is the small gap between a piston ring’s ends when installed in the cylinder. If the clearance is too tight, the ring can bind as it heats up, reducing sealing and potentially causing damage. Getting the clearance within the manufacturer’s spec is critical for compression and longevity.
piston wall clearance
"Cause we should move on a little bit from, we've talked about rings, piston, wall clearance. I'm talking about piston ring clearance."
This is the space between the piston and the cylinder wall. The engine needs enough room for the piston to move, especially as everything heats up. If it’s too tight, parts can rub; if it’s too loose, the engine may not seal as well.
Piston wall clearance refers to the designed space between the piston and the cylinder wall. It affects how freely the piston can move when cold and how it behaves as temperatures rise. Too little clearance can increase friction and risk scuffing; too much can hurt sealing and efficiency.
ring squaring tool
"So when you put the ring in and you can either have a ring squaring tool. When that Todd and I started power driven, he had all these nice ring squaring tools."
When you measure a piston ring’s gap, you want the ring to sit straight in the cylinder. A ring squaring tool helps hold it in the correct position so your measurement is accurate. That way you don’t accidentally think the gap is wrong when it’s just the ring sitting crooked.
A ring squaring tool helps position a piston ring so it sits squarely in the cylinder before measuring end gap/clearance. This improves measurement accuracy because the ring can otherwise sit cocked in the bore. Using the right setup helps you confirm the ring clearance is actually within spec.
feeler gauge
"...use the squaring tool and it takes it about an inch down on the bore. And then you can put a feeler gauge and you're checking the end gap on the ring."
A feeler gauge is basically a set of very thin metal strips. You slide the right thickness strip into the gap to see how much clearance you actually have.
A feeler gauge is a thin, graduated strip tool used to measure small clearances. In this context, it’s used to measure the piston ring end gap after the ring is squared in the bore.
top ring clearance for more power (heat expansion)
"So top ring, as you get more power, there's more heat. You need more clearance on the top ring."
The top ring gets the hottest because it’s closest to the combustion. If you make more power, it runs even hotter, so you need a bit more clearance so the ring doesn’t get stuck or scuff.
The top piston ring runs hotter than the others, especially as power increases. More heat means the ring expands more, so builders often target more top-ring end gap/clearance to avoid ring binding and to maintain sealing.
blow-by
"I've taken apart stock 12 valves with that ran great. No blow by that you really noticed or anything on them... And it blow by and huffed and there's a huge ring ridge at the top."
Blow-by is when hot combustion gases sneak past the piston rings instead of staying in the cylinder. When that happens, the engine can lose efficiency and you may notice extra crankcase pressure or “huffing.”
Blow-by is combustion gases leaking past the piston rings into the crankcase. Excessive ring wear or an overly large ring end gap can increase blow-by, which often shows up as poor compression and visible symptoms like huffing.
ring ridge
"...the top ring was so worn and gone, the ring gap was like... like a quarter inch... And it blow by and huffed and there's a huge ring ridge at the top."
A ring ridge is like a little step in the cylinder wall caused by wear and carbon buildup. If it gets big, the rings can’t seal as well, so the engine may start leaking gases past the rings.
A ring ridge is a carbon-and-wear step that forms at the top of the cylinder where the ring reverses direction. It can indicate significant wear and can contribute to poor ring sealing, increased blow-by, and accelerated oil consumption.
"eating dirt" (abrasive wear from contamination)
"And it blow by and huffed and there's a huge ring ridge at the top. So it's eating dirt."
“Eating dirt” means the engine is getting gritty particles inside. That grit acts like sandpaper, wearing the rings and cylinder faster than normal.
“Eating dirt” refers to abrasive contamination (like dust or grit) accelerating cylinder and ring wear. When abrasive particles get into the engine, they can worsen ring/bore wear, leading to larger gaps and sealing problems.
second ring
"The second ring has less heat, so technically it doesn't need as much gap."
The “second ring” is the lower compression ring that works with the top ring to improve sealing and manage heat. The transcript highlights a key tradeoff: the second ring typically runs cooler (so it may need less gap), but in certain conditions trapped gas can still affect top-ring stability at high RPM.
gapless ring
"...If you're not running the gapless ring, or even if you are, I still do it bigger."
A “gapless ring” is a piston ring design intended to reduce or eliminate the end gap that would otherwise allow combustion gases to leak. Builders still discuss clearances because even gapless designs can behave differently under heat, and ring stability at high RPM remains a concern.
top ring flutter/unseat
"...in high RPM engines, if gas gets trapped between the top ring and the second ring, it can make the top ring flutter and unseat."
“Top ring flutter and unseat” describes a failure mode where the top compression ring loses contact with the cylinder wall at high RPM. The transcript explains one cause: gas trapped between the top ring and second ring can disturb the top ring’s stability, reducing sealing and potentially accelerating wear.
ring orientation
"But so it's kind of like, but you talk to three different engine millers, they're all totally different theories there. Without ring orientation, as you put them in the gaps, you don't win the gaps up top to bottom."
Ring orientation means how you rotate the rings when installing them. Even if the rings are the right size, where the gaps and markings end up can change how the engine seals and controls oil.
Ring orientation is how the piston rings are clocked relative to the piston and cylinder features. Proper orientation can influence oil control, sealing behavior, and how the ring lands under load, especially when ring gaps are positioned.
injection pump
"So I'll put the, the top ring towards the injection pump. I'll put the middle ring the other way."
The injection pump is what sends fuel into the engine at the right time and pressure. The host is using it as a reference direction for how to point the piston rings during installation.
An injection pump is the component that meters and pressurizes fuel for delivery to the engine’s injectors. In diesel engines, its location is often used as a reference point for piston ring clocking/orientation during assembly.
middle ring
"I'll put the middle ring the other way. So towards the Peter core and then the exhaust span folder, whatever."
The middle ring is the ring between the top compression ring and the oil ring. It helps seal combustion gases, and the way it’s installed (which way it faces) can affect performance.
The middle piston ring (typically the second compression ring) works with the top ring to improve sealing and manage combustion gases. The host’s point is that ring clocking/orientation can matter, and different rings may be installed facing different directions.
alternator
"Then the oil ring, I'll put that towards like the alternator. So like 90 degrees out."
The alternator makes electricity to run the vehicle and charge the battery. In this conversation, it’s just a “pointing direction” reference for ring installation.
The alternator is the electrical generator on the engine, typically driven by a belt. Here it’s used as a directional reference point for how the oil ring is clocked relative to the engine block.
first fire
"So the idea for me is just like that first fire won't have a straight shot where something can cause a problem, probably."
“First fire” is the first time you start the engine after rebuilding it. It’s a sensitive moment because parts are new and need to seat correctly, so you want to avoid anything that could cause trouble right away.
“First fire” refers to the initial start-up after an engine rebuild, when components are still bedding in and clearances are critical. Builders often manage expectations and procedures to reduce the chance of early problems like improper seating or abnormal heat.
piston ring expansion with heat
"So it's not as critical as people think it is because they do move."
As the engine heats up, piston rings get hotter and expand. The ring gap is set so they can expand without getting stuck or damaged, while still sealing well.
The speaker’s point is that piston rings move and expand during operation, so ring gap isn’t “set and forget.” Correct clearance accounts for thermal expansion so rings can seal properly across different loads and temperatures.
common rail
"Go just you talk about ring gap on a 12 valve ring gap on a common rail."
Common-rail is a diesel fuel system that keeps fuel under high pressure and sends it to the injectors on command. That more precise fueling can change how hot the engine runs, which affects ring and piston decisions.
Common-rail is a diesel fuel system where high-pressure fuel is stored in a shared “rail” and delivered to injectors as needed. Because injection timing and pressure can be finely controlled, it changes combustion behavior and can influence how builders think about piston ring setup and heat management.
fuel-only sled pulling / long pulls
"Like if you plan on beating the crap out of it, this is like, something you just want to be able to sled pull where you're doing a long pulls, you're doing fuel only stuff."
Fuel-only sled pulling means you’re working the engine hard for a long time without switching to other power adders. Long, heavy pulls make the engine run hotter on average, so setup choices like ring gap matter.
Sled pulling “fuel-only” setups emphasize sustained high load for long durations, which drives higher average cylinder temperatures and heat soak. That kind of duty cycle can affect how ring gap and other clearances should be chosen versus short bursts like drag racing.
drag racing with nitrous
"drag racing with nitrous, making four more hundred horsepower, 1,700 degrees, like depending on what you're doing with the engine, it's going to change what you should do with your rings."
Nitrous oxide increases the oxygen available for combustion, which can raise cylinder pressures and temperatures quickly. That changes the thermal and mechanical stress environment, so ring gap and other build choices may need to be different for nitrous-assisted drag racing versus towing or fuel-only pulls.
tow truck duty cycle (long grade pulls)
"But just as a reference, like kind of your same thing you said with 12 valve, like my tow trucks at like 26, I believe on the top, that's fine... I pull grades for a good power for quite a long time."
The speaker contrasts performance builds with tow-truck use, where the engine may spend long periods under load (like pulling grades). That sustained heat and load profile can justify different ring gap targets—potentially looser than a race-only setup—because the goal is durability and consistent power.
forge piston
"...nine to 10,000 should be just fine for piston to wall for basically a lot of the engines, unless you have a forge piston. Um, and for that, I would be in that 30, 32,000 ring gap range..."
A “forge piston” is made by forging (compressing metal under pressure) rather than casting. Forged pistons are typically stronger and better suited for higher stress and heat, but they often require different clearances and ring gap targets than stock-style pistons.
overrings
"...I bought another set of rings, like same story, 40, 45, 48. And I'm like, well, so I bought 20 overrings and you have to grind the"
This sounds like using bigger or different rings to fix a fitment problem. If the rings don’t match the cylinder/piston setup, you may need a different ring size so they seal correctly and don’t bind.
“Overrings” likely refers to oversized piston rings or replacement rings intended to correct for a mismatch in cylinder/ring fit. The speaker describes buying rings in different sizes and then using “20 overrings,” implying a need to adjust ring dimensions to achieve the correct clearance and gap.
piston rings
"And you, you don't like that you're going to drop these rings in at 35. You can buy a 20 over ring set. You have to do a lot of grinding."
Piston rings sit on the piston and help seal the combustion chamber. They also help keep oil from getting into the cylinders where it shouldn’t be.
Piston rings are the sealing components on the piston that control compression (compression rings) and manage oil (oil control ring). During a rebuild, ring end gap and ring-to-bore fit are critical; the wrong fit can cause blow-by, oil consumption, or ring damage.
oil control ring
"Um, and then on the bottom ring, it's a good idea to just double check it and make sure I always go for a 10,000 oil control ring. Yep. Pull that little spring ring out of it."
The oil control ring’s job is to keep extra oil from being burned in the engine. It helps scrape oil off the cylinder walls and send it back where it belongs.
The oil control ring is the piston ring responsible for scraping excess oil off the cylinder wall and returning it to the crankcase. Its design often includes a wavy expander/spring and rails, so builders pay attention to correct installation and end gap.
ring end gap tuning (thou ranges)
"Generally they're all in that 10, 15, 20, thou range, but on a stockish motor, I'd make them 10 on a bigger motor. I'll do 15. I don't think it matters, but it makes me feel a little bit safer."
When you install piston rings, you don’t just put them in—you set the tiny gap at the ring ends. That gap can change depending on how hot and hard the engine will run.
The episode segment discusses “thou ranges” (10/15/20 thousandths) for ring end gaps, which is a tuning process during engine assembly. End gap targets can vary based on whether the engine is stock-ish or built (more heat and stress), and builders adjust to balance sealing vs. avoiding ring binding.
Junker
"“...we just put in one of the stock oil control rings and it was the Junker. That's the motor you just needed.”"
“Junker” sounds like a nickname for the engine build they were working on. They’re saying the right ring choice was what that motor needed.
“Junker” appears to be the name of the engine/motor build the speaker is referring to, likely a specific Cummins setup or nickname for a particular build. The key point is that the correct oil control ring choice made that motor work as intended.
Sealed Power rings
"“...I looked and I think there's like some sealed power rings from like auto zone...”"
Sealed Power makes piston rings that you can buy aftermarket. The host is saying they considered those rings because they were available and cheaper than the exact replacement they needed.
Sealed Power is an aftermarket piston ring brand. The speaker mentions looking at Sealed Power rings from an auto parts store as a cost-effective option when a specific ring was missing.
AutoZone
"“...sealed power rings from like auto zone, and it was like $38 for one ring.”"
AutoZone is a place you can buy car parts over the counter. They’re mentioning it because they found ring options there and were thinking about using one.
AutoZone is a retail auto parts chain. Here it’s mentioned as the source for aftermarket ring options and pricing, highlighting how availability and cost can drive ring selection during a build.
oil ring
"Well, I didn't know how to like, and I broke, I broke one. So now I needed two when I was like trying to install them. And so I ended up putting one set of sealed power oil ring, one used oil ring."
Oil rings are small metal rings on the piston that help control oil inside the engine. They keep too much oil from getting into the combustion area. If they’re installed wrong or mismatched, you can get oil consumption or poor sealing.
Oil rings are the piston rings responsible for controlling how much oil stays on the cylinder wall. They scrape excess oil back down into the crankcase to help prevent oil burning and smoke. In this segment, the host is talking about mixing used and new oil rings and getting them to work during installation.
keystone ring
"Total seal recently made a keystone ring. So the side profile looks like a keystone, which is what a lot of these factory style rings are."
A keystone ring is a piston ring with a special shape. That shape helps the ring press against the cylinder wall more consistently. Better contact usually means better sealing and less leakage past the rings.
A keystone ring is shaped so the ring’s cross-section resembles a keystone (wider in the middle, narrower at the edges). That geometry helps the ring maintain contact with the cylinder wall and can improve sealing compared with simpler profiles. The host notes Total Seal recently made a keystone ring that resembles many factory-style rings.
gapless second
"And they have kind of like two different options. They have one that comes with a gapless second and one that comes like a conventional second."
“Gapless second” describes a piston ring setup designed to reduce the small opening (gap) at the ring ends. Less gap means fewer combustion gases can sneak past the ring. That helps the engine seal better and can reduce blow-by.
A “gapless second” refers to a ring design where the second compression ring is built to minimize the end gap that would normally allow combustion gases to leak (blow-by). Total Seal offers a gapless version and a conventional version, and the host is contrasting the two. The gapless approach aims to improve sealing across a wider range of operating conditions.
butted rings
"Years ago, Todd had an engine that we'd built that we were too tight and it had butted the rings. And the second ring caught all of that combustion pressure and it ripped the aluminum ring groove off..."
Piston rings need a little end gap so they can expand when the engine heats up. If the gap is wrong and the ring ends “butt” together, the ring can get forced out of shape or break. That can quickly ruin the sealing and damage the piston area.
“Butted rings” means the ring ends are effectively touching (no end-gap) due to incorrect ring gap or thermal expansion clearance. That can prevent the ring from expanding properly, causing extreme pressure and mechanical failure, including ring damage and loss of sealing.
aluminum ring groove
"...and it had butted the rings. And the second ring caught all of that combustion pressure and it ripped the aluminum ring groove off and actually crashed the middle ring into the oil ring..."
The piston has channels (grooves) where the piston rings sit. If the rings don’t seal correctly or get damaged, the pressure can hammer those grooves and break them. Once the groove is damaged, the rings can’t work properly anymore.
The “ring groove” is the machined recess in the piston that locates and supports the piston rings. If combustion pressure is captured incorrectly (for example, due to ring failure or poor fitment), it can damage the groove—here described as ripping the aluminum ring groove off.
2000 horsepower engine build (high-power ring sealing risk)
"I'm a little concerned. Let's say I was building a 2000 horsepower engine with cast pistons... I do question if that gapless second in the case where the top ring flutters... will it catch too much of that combustion and potentially make the piston fail."
When you push an engine to very high power, the piston rings have to seal perfectly. If something goes wrong—like the top ring not staying tight—combustion pressure can end up stressing the piston in the wrong way. That’s why they’re cautious about the gapless ring in certain scenarios.
The hosts use a “2000 horsepower” example to illustrate that at extreme power levels, ring sealing strategy becomes critical. Even an advanced ring design (like a gapless second ring) can become risky if other conditions cause the top ring to flutter or lose tension, leading to abnormal pressure capture and potential piston failure.
cast pistons
"Let's say I was building a 2000 horsepower engine with cast pistons because Myra tells us their factory race pistons."
Cast pistons are made by pouring metal into a mold. They’re common in many engines, but in very high-power builds the stresses can be extreme. The hosts are basically saying piston strength and ring behavior have to match the power level.
“Cast pistons” are pistons made by pouring molten aluminum into a mold. They can be strong for many builds, but the hosts are discussing how certain ring designs and extreme combustion pressure can exceed what the piston/ring groove can safely handle.
ring flutter / loss of ring tension
"I do question if that gapless second in the case where the top ring flutters or loses tension or whatever, will it catch too much of that combustion and potentially make the piston fail."
At very high RPM or with extreme cylinder pressure, piston rings can stop sealing the cylinder the way they should. If the ring doesn’t stay pressed against the cylinder, combustion pressure can get past it and the ring can get damaged. That’s what they’re warning about with the gapless second ring.
“Ring flutter” is when a piston ring loses contact with the cylinder wall at high engine speeds or under certain pressure conditions. If the ring loses tension or control, it can’t seal properly, which can increase blow-by and potentially expose the piston/ring to abnormal loading that leads to failure.
lock tight
"Let's talk about like, I mean, lock tight. ... So yeah, there's three lock tight or four lock tights. ... red is like high temp, high strength ... blue ... green ..."
Locktite (threadlocker) is an adhesive used on fasteners to prevent them from loosening due to vibration. Different colors/grades indicate different strength and temperature ranges, and they’re chosen based on whether you want a removable or “won’t come apart again” joint. In engine builds, using the correct threadlocker on the right bolts helps maintain clamp load over time.
oil galley passage plugs
"The the oil, galley, passage, rifle, those are thing plugs. Like what do you just put those in dry? Like what do we do on this?"
Oil passages are the internal tubes that feed oil to the engine’s moving parts. Plugs close off those passages, and they need to be installed the right way so oil doesn’t leak or block flow. The “dry vs sealed” question is about preventing leaks.
Oil galleys/passages are internal channels that route pressurized oil to bearings and other components. “Plugs” are used to close or cap those passages during assembly or machining. The hosts’ question about whether to install them “dry” points to correct sealing/retention practices to avoid oil leaks or flow issues.
building an engine correctly (threadlocker/assembly best practices)
"I believe if you're building an engine and to do it correctly, you need them. You need a red ... If you never want to mess with that bolt again, then a blue lock tight ... And then you got green lock ..."
The segment emphasizes assembly best practices—specifically using the right threadlocker grade and applying it intentionally so bolts maintain clamp load under heat and vibration. This is part of “building it right” because incorrect fastener retention can lead to loosening, leaks, and secondary damage. It’s a practical reliability concept rather than a single tool.
thread sealant
"[2588.7s] And then you have your five forty five, which is like a purple lock tight, [2591.9s] which is a thread sealant. [2593.0s] And that's what we'd put on any tapered fitting, like a eighth inch"
Thread sealant is a sealant you put on the threads so fluids don’t leak where the fitting screws in. It’s especially important on fittings that don’t have a rubber gasket (O-ring).
Thread sealant is a compound applied to threads to prevent leaks along the screw/bolt interface. In engine builds, it’s commonly used on tapered fittings or plugs that don’t use an O-ring, helping seal oil or coolant passages.
Locktite (threadlocker)
"[2588.7s] And then you have your five forty five, which is like a purple lock tight, [2591.9s] which is a thread sealant. [2609.7s] That's not going to see a lot of force, a lot of RPM. [2612.2s] I would use blue mostly throughout all the hardware."
Locktite (threadlocker) refers to anaerobic adhesives used to keep threaded fasteners from loosening due to vibration. The speaker differentiates between types/colors (e.g., a thread sealant vs. a threadlocker) and uses them based on fitting type and expected loads/RPM.
tapered fitting
"[2593.0s] And that's what we'd put on any tapered fitting, like a eighth inch [2596.1s] amputee plug on the side of the block or like your, your coolant plugs on the head [2602.3s] If it's a tapered fitting that doesn't use an O-ring by forty five."
A tapered fitting is a connection where the mating surfaces are angled so they tighten as they’re threaded together. The speaker notes that tapered fittings that don’t use an O-ring should be sealed with thread sealant, because the seal relies on the interface between the threads and surfaces.
O-ring
"[2596.1s] amputee plug on the side of the block or like your, your coolant plugs on the head [2601.8s] and stuff. [2602.3s] If it's a tapered fitting that doesn't use an O-ring by forty five."
An O-ring is a small rubber ring that helps stop leaks between two metal parts. If a fitting doesn’t use an O-ring, you usually need another way to seal it—like thread sealant.
An O-ring is a rubber sealing ring that sits in a groove to seal between two parts. The speaker contrasts O-ring-equipped fittings with tapered fittings that require thread sealant instead, which matters for preventing coolant or oil leaks.
high-horsepower diesel build reliability (fasteners/drivetrain)
"[2627.2s] If it is a call it up eight hundred horsepower motor or above, I would just [2632.1s] red lock tight the whole thing because you start getting like five thousand [2635.5s] RPM, things want to come loose, stuff vibrates and shakes. [2639.1s] I remember like my, my OG, the, the shorties engine, which that thing was [2643.3s] an absolute champion. [2647.1s] only issues I ever had as I snapped input shafts and I bolts rattled"
This segment ties together two common high-power failure modes: fasteners loosening from vibration and drivetrain components failing from extreme torque/shock. The speaker’s examples (threadlocking strategy and snapped input shafts) reflect how builders prioritize retention and strength when chasing very high output.
input shafts snapping
"[2643.3s] It's like the thousand horse truck that everyone wished they had because the [2647.1s] only issues I ever had as I snapped input shafts and I bolts rattled"
Input shafts are the transmission-side shafts that receive torque from the engine and transfer it into the drivetrain. When they “snap,” it usually indicates the drivetrain saw torque loads beyond what the shafts (or related components) could handle, often due to power level, shock loading, or insufficient strength.
high-power "thousand horse" engine
"lock tight because like the blue failed on you on a thousand horse engine. ... Like it was such a legendary engine that never had any issues. It had 10,000 piston wall and 32,000 top ring gap."
“Thousand horse” means the engine is making about 1,000 horsepower, which is extremely powerful. When you push that hard, small problems—like a bolt loosening or a seal not sealing—can become big failures. The speaker is saying their example engine handled that stress well.
“Thousand horse” is slang for an extremely high-output engine build (around 1,000 horsepower). At that level, components and sealing strategies that work on lower-power setups can fail due to higher cylinder pressure, heat, and vibration. The speaker contrasts a “legendary” thousand-horse engine that “never had any issues” with their own mistakes and fixes.
coolant leaked
"And the, I had a coolant leaked because the alternator bracket. That's also the coolant, like the AC bracket that also seals the bottom lower neck, it came loose and started to drip. And so I had to, you know, take everything apart and retight, retighten the bolts and everything, put it back together."
A coolant leak means the engine’s antifreeze is escaping somewhere it shouldn’t. That can happen if a seal or gasket isn’t tight enough or a bracket loosens. The speaker had to take things apart and re-tighten to stop the leak.
A coolant leak indicates pressurized engine fluid is escaping, often from a gasket, seal, or bracket mounting point. In this segment, the leak is attributed to the alternator bracket area and a sealing surface near the lower neck. The fix described is disassembly and re-torquing the bolts to restore sealing pressure.
catch can
"It didn't like have like any blow by. It didn't have like a, the catch can did not drain itself. So every time I do an oil change, I would drain it and I had like maybe two tablespoons of oil in it every time."
A catch can is a small device that traps oily vapors so they don’t get sucked into the intake. If it doesn’t drain on its own, oil builds up inside. The speaker says they had to empty it every oil change because it only had a small amount each time.
A catch can is an oil-vapor separator used to collect crankcase fumes before they enter the intake system. If the catch can doesn’t drain properly, oil can accumulate and you’ll need to empty it more often. The speaker notes their catch can didn’t drain itself and they had to manually drain it during oil changes.
torque spec
"And yeah, that's where I learned like, yep, torque spec. The factory torque spec is a little low. I try to go up to like most of those bolts are like 18. I'll do like 20, 22."
Torque spec is the “tighten it to this amount” number for bolts. If you don’t tighten enough, parts can loosen and leak; if you tighten too much, you can damage threads or stretch bolts. The host is saying the factory numbers might be a little low for their build, so they tighten some bolts a bit more.
A torque spec is the manufacturer’s specified tightening force for a fastener, usually given in ft-lb or N·m. Using the correct torque helps prevent leaks, warping, or bolt failure, especially on high-stress engine builds. In this segment, the speaker suggests the factory values may be conservative and that they personally tighten certain bolts a bit more.
red out
"And then if you're talking about 5,000 RPM red, that's be real. Like you can get red out. Like people think like, oh my gosh, red's permanent."
“Red out” means revving the engine up into the redline area. Some people think touching redline always ruins the engine, but the speaker is saying that’s not necessarily true if the engine is built and running correctly. It’s basically about how you use the RPM range.
“Red out” here refers to getting the engine speed (RPM) back into the redline range and controlling it rather than letting it sit there permanently. The speaker pushes back on the idea that redline is automatically destructive, implying that brief excursions can be survivable when the build is healthy. This is more about how people perceive redline than a specific mechanical part.
Cummins engine
"You're never going to get that out again. It comes out. It's easy. It's they'll come out, but basically over 800 horse recommend you go to red."
They’re talking about working on a Cummins diesel engine. The point is to assemble it carefully so parts don’t loosen or leak once the engine is running.
The hosts are discussing building a Cummins engine, which is a diesel powerplant commonly used in heavy-duty trucks. “Building it the right way” here is about correct fastener prep and sealing so components stay secure under heat and vibration.
gear case bolts
"So like all those gear case bolts on the front. Oil pump bolts, the cam bolts, oil pump bolts are long enough."
Gear case bolts are bolts that hold the front gear-case cover/assembly in place. Getting the right bolts helps keep the timing/drive components secure.
Gear case bolts secure the front gear case area of the engine, which houses timing-related gearing and/or drive components. The hosts are focusing on bolt selection and length because incorrect fasteners can cause fitment and retention issues.
oil pump bolts
"So like all those gear case bolts on the front. Oil pump bolts, the cam bolts, oil pump bolts are long enough. I don't actually usually you're skipping."
Oil pump bolts fasten the oil pump to the engine so it can generate and maintain oil pressure. The segment emphasizes that bolt length and correct fit are important—short or mismatched bolts can lead to poor clamping and eventual problems.
cam bolts
"So like all those gear case bolts on the front. Oil pump bolts, the cam bolts, oil pump bolts are long enough. I don't actually usually you're skipping."
Cam bolts are bolts that hold parts of the camshaft/timing system in place. Using the correct bolts and lengths helps prevent the timing parts from shifting or loosening.
Cam bolts secure components related to the camshaft and timing system. The discussion suggests bolt length and correct fastener choice matter because improper bolt engagement can cause reliability issues under load.
M8 bolt
"It's the bolts that are shorter. Like if it's M8 bolt, less than an inch, it doesn't like say it doesn't have the ability to do shock absorber."
M8 is a way of describing bolt size in millimeters. They’re saying smaller/shorter M8 bolts may not have enough engagement, so they can be more prone to problems.
M8 refers to a metric bolt size (8 mm diameter). The speaker is using bolt size/length thresholds to decide when a fastener is more likely to have issues and therefore needs additional retention measures.
billet freeze plugs
"So a lot of people think that billet freeze plugs are gimmick or a dress up item and they do look nice. They've been made look nice. They're 100% necessary on a elevated power level Cummins because you're going to turn more RPM."
Freeze plugs are little seals in the engine block that keep coolant where it belongs. When an engine is built to make more power, the pressure and heat can be harder on those seals. Billet freeze plugs are stronger replacements meant to reduce the chance of them popping out.
Freeze plugs (core plugs) are small plugs pressed into the engine block to seal coolant passages. “Billet” freeze plugs are machined from billet material and are often used in high-power builds because they can better resist pressure and heat cycling than factory-style plugs. In this segment, the host argues they’re not just cosmetic—they help prevent plugs from blowing out when the engine is making more RPM and cylinder pressure.
dyno tune
"And then we were going to dyno tune it for him. We put it on the dyno and it wasn't like it was wet still. I mean, this engine had been built for weeks and put on the dyno, did a couple of passes and it blew the rear one out."
A dyno tune is calibrating the engine’s fuel/air delivery and boost control on a dynamometer to match the engine’s actual behavior under load. The host mentions putting the built engine on the dyno, running a couple of passes, and then seeing a failure (a rear freeze plug blowing out). This illustrates why dyno testing can reveal sealing and cooling issues before the vehicle is driven.
preventative reliability upgrades
"So we ended up just replacing them all in frame with billet ones just because I didn't want to have that issue. And it's like, that was a sucky issue to have on the dyno. That'd be an even worse issue to have going down the road, especially towing something."
Preventative upgrades mean you replace or strengthen parts that are likely to fail later, even if they haven’t failed yet. The host saw a freeze plug problem during testing, so they changed the setup to avoid the same issue on the road—especially while towing. It’s basically “fix the weak spot now so you don’t get stranded later.”
Preventative reliability upgrades are changes made during a build to prevent known failure points, even if the original parts might “work” for a while. Here, the host describes replacing freeze plugs in-frame with billet units after seeing a failure on the dyno, rather than risking a recurrence during real-world towing. The concept is common in performance diesel building: address weak links proactively to avoid expensive or dangerous failures later.
RTV
"So I always just RTV them as well... That way you just know if there's any like rust pitting... possibly cause a leak, just glue it up."
RTV is a silicone sealant you apply during assembly. It helps fill tiny gaps so fluids don’t leak. In this case, it’s used to help the freeze plug seal better.
RTV refers to room-temperature vulcanizing silicone sealant. In engine assembly, it’s used to fill small surface imperfections and improve sealing around parts like freeze plugs. The speaker uses it to compensate for rust pitting on the factory bore.
assembly lube
"We didn't talk at all about assembly lube. We've used many over the years."
Assembly lube is grease you put on engine parts during building. It protects them right away during the first moments of startup. That way, they don’t run dry while the oil system is filling.
Assembly lube is a special lubricant applied during engine build to protect moving parts during initial startup. It helps reduce metal-to-metal contact before oil pressure and normal lubrication are established. The speaker notes they didn’t discuss it earlier, but they’ve used it over the years.
Joe Gibbs
"The one thing I feel like is worth buying. I like that, that Joe Gibbs, that driven assembly grease for cams and tappets."
Joe Gibbs is a brand that makes performance lubricants. The speaker likes their grease for cam and tappet surfaces because it helps protect those parts during assembly and break-in. It’s about using the right lube for the job.
Joe Gibbs is a well-known motorsports and lubrication brand associated with high-performance oils and greases. Here, the speaker specifically recommends Joe Gibbs driven assembly grease for cam and tappet surfaces. The point is to choose a lubricant suited to the camshaft type and break-in needs.
flat tappets
"Yeah, flat tappets. Flat tappet."
Flat tappets are a type of cam/lifter setup in an engine. They need the right lubrication so the surfaces don’t wear too fast, especially during the first start and break-in. That’s why the speaker recommends specific assembly grease for cams and tappets.
Flat tappets are a camshaft/tappet design where the tappet face is flat rather than roller-style. This design is sensitive to lubrication and break-in because the cam and lifter surfaces rely on proper grease/oil chemistry to prevent excessive wear. The speaker ties the recommended assembly grease directly to flat tappet cam and tappet setups.
factory block
"There was a steel cam in a factory block and it was already ran another engine. So it might've kind of had a little rough surface finish."
A factory block is the standard engine block that came from the manufacturer. Even with a stock block, the rest of the engine parts and setup still have to be done correctly to prevent problems.
A factory block is the original engine block cast and produced by the manufacturer, as opposed to a custom or aftermarket billet block. Using a factory block can be cost-effective, but the build still has to match clearances, lubrication, and component compatibility to avoid failures.
steel cam
"There was a steel cam in a factory block and it was already ran another engine. So it might've kind of had a little rough surface finish."
A steel camshaft is just the camshaft made from steel. Even though steel is tough, it still needs the right oil and proper break-in so it doesn’t wear out too fast.
A “steel cam” refers to a camshaft made from steel, which is commonly used in many diesel and performance builds. Steel cams can be durable, but they still depend heavily on correct oil, break-in, and surface finish to avoid premature wear.
surface finish
"So it might've kind of had a little rough surface finish. I don't know. Park raising. Nice."
Surface finish means how smooth the metal is at a tiny scale. If it’s rough, parts can rub harder and wear faster, particularly when the engine is new or just rebuilt.
Surface finish describes how smooth or rough a machined part is at the microscopic level. A rougher finish on cam or related components can increase friction and wear, especially during break-in or if lubrication isn’t ideal.
cracked
"But yeah, that one of yours that cracked too. Oh, yeah. That was that was yours."
If something “cracked,” it means it split or broke due to stress or heat. In an engine, cracks can happen if parts weren’t set up right or if the engine ran too hot.
When an engine component “cracked,” it means it developed a fracture from stress, heat cycling, or material/fitment issues. In engine builds, cracks can be caused by incorrect clearances, overheating, or prior damage that wasn’t addressed.
assembly grease
"But yeah, like they say assembly grease is definitely. I like it a lot. We have like the Joe Gibbs talking about driven."
Assembly grease is a special grease you put on engine parts during building. It helps protect things until the engine’s oil system is running and pumping oil.
Assembly grease is a lubricant used during engine assembly to protect moving parts before the engine has oil pressure. It helps reduce dry-start wear on components like bearings and oiling surfaces during initial crank-up.
engine assembly lubrication (pre-oil-pressure protection)
"But yeah, like they say assembly grease is definitely... I used it when I put this engine together and I pulled the oil pump out the other day to inspect it..."
When you build an engine, you have to protect parts before the engine’s oil system is working. Using the right grease and then checking components helps you catch problems early.
This segment centers on using the right lubrication during assembly so critical parts are protected before oil pressure builds. The hosts also discuss inspecting the oil pump afterward, highlighting how assembly choices can affect what you find during teardown/inspection.
lithium
"Anyway, there's a lithium, a white, a white engine assembly grease, which I've seen different people use."
Lithium is the type of thickener used in some greases. Grease can be made with different bases, and the right one matters when you’re assembling an engine.
Lithium grease refers to grease thickened with lithium-based soap. It’s commonly used as an assembly lubricant, but the key is compatibility with the engine environment and the rest of the lubrication system.
Lucas
"I've used the, the red, I don't know if it's from Lucas. Oh, the Lucas is kind of like, like a oil colored kind of a gold color, but we've also used that red."
Lucas is a company that makes lubricants and engine-related products. The host is saying they’ve used Lucas products for assembly lubrication with no problems.
Lucas is an automotive fluids and lubricants brand. In this context, the host is referring to Lucas-branded assembly lubricant/grease used during engine work.
Permatex
"The red snot. Yeah, the red snot. It's Permatex. I'm pretty sure. Permatex. I've used that."
Permatex makes products used in car repair and engine building. The host is saying they’ve used Permatex’s red lubricant/grease during assembly and it worked fine.
Permatex is a well-known maker of sealants, adhesives, and specialty shop chemicals. Here, the host is specifically talking about Permatex’s red assembly lubricant/grease used during engine assembly.
engine oil
"And so engine oil, I don't do that. I use a squirter can, but I try to make it so where you can't tell what I did."
Engine oil is what keeps the inside of the engine from grinding. For a fresh build, it’s especially important to get oil onto key parts so they don’t scrape before everything is fully lubricated.
Engine oil is the lubricant that reduces metal-to-metal contact and carries heat away from internal components. In a fresh build context, the discussion is about using oil to coat moving parts (like rings) so they don’t run dry during initial rotation/startup.
oil coat
"And then just sit there and spin, spin, spin oil coat on. Cause like when it's dry, you can feel like there's like some scratching."
An oil coat is a light layer of oil that protects parts from rubbing dry. Spinning after applying oil helps spread that layer so everything moves smoothly.
An “oil coat” is the thin film of oil left on components so they can rotate without dry contact. Here, the host describes spinning the parts after applying oil so the rings and related surfaces get evenly coated before further steps.
camshaft
"So camshaft, all the journals, all the lobes, you don't like go crazy. [3157.4s] I don't use gloves."
The camshaft is the engine’s timing “controller” for the valves. Lubing it during assembly helps prevent damage before the oil system is fully working.
The camshaft controls valve timing by rotating and pushing on the valvetrain components. When building an engine, lubricating the camshaft journals and lobes correctly is critical to avoid scuffing and premature wear.
lobes
"So camshaft, all the journals, all the lobes, you don't like go crazy. [3157.4s] I don't use gloves."
Cam lobes are the “bumps” on the camshaft that push the valves open. Lubing them during assembly helps prevent damage before the engine starts.
Camshaft lobes are the shaped portions that actuate the valves through the valvetrain. Lubing the lobes during assembly helps protect them from dry friction until oil pressure and splash lubrication are established.
initial start-up protection (assembly lubrication)
"So camshaft, all the journals, all the lobes, you don't like go crazy. [3157.4s] I don't use gloves... [3170.0s] You can just dunk it in a bucket of loob."
When you first start an engine, it takes a moment for oil pressure to build. Assembly lubrication is meant to protect the important moving parts during that brief time.
A key idea in engine assembly is preventing dry friction on critical surfaces until the engine’s oil system is fully pressurized. That’s why builders focus on lubricating journals/lobes and using the right coating method during assembly.
bucket of lube
"[3168.6s] So cut the camp. [3169.8s] Okay. [3170.0s] You can just dunk it in a bucket of loob. [3171.7s] Give yourself a ballot."
Dunking parts in lubricant is a quick way to coat them before you put them in the engine. It’s meant to keep the parts from rubbing dry right away.
Dunking parts in a lubricant “bucket” is an assembly technique to ensure surfaces are coated before installation. It’s a practical method for getting lubricant onto critical areas, but the builder still needs to use the correct lubricant and avoid contamination.
"Definitely the left here is the bore. [3180.4s] I lift the face and the, and the whole, the pocket, the pocket."
“Pocket” here likely refers to a machined recess area (often in the cylinder head or piston crown) that interacts with airflow, combustion, or clearance. The exact part depends on the broader context of the build, but it’s a reminder that engine geometry details matter.
pushrod
"I actually don't lube the pocket as much because I do the pushrod, but either way, it's good idea to do both that way."
A pushrod is a part that helps the camshaft open the engine valves. It’s like a connector that moves motion from the cam to the valve system, so it needs to be assembled and lubricated correctly.
A pushrod is a rod that transfers motion from the camshaft to the engine’s valve train (typically to open and close valves). In a build, lubrication and correct assembly matter because pushrods see sliding contact and repeated loads.
cam stuff
"You want to loop down there. So that's kind of your cam stuff. Make sure everything's looped up there."
“Cam stuff” is everything related to the camshaft, which controls when the valves open and close. If it’s not set up right, the engine can wear out faster or run poorly.
“Cam stuff” refers to the camshaft-related setup steps—things like camshaft positioning, lubrication points, and ensuring the cam and related components are installed correctly. Proper cam setup helps prevent abnormal wear and maintains correct valve timing.
crank side of the bearings
"Bearings, we put it on the side of the crank side or the, yeah, the crank side of the bearings."
This is about putting the bearings in the correct orientation next to the crankshaft. Bearings have to sit the right way so oil can get where it needs to go and the engine parts don’t grind.
This describes correct bearing orientation/placement relative to the crankshaft. Main and rod bearings have specific oiling and clearance requirements, so installing them on the correct “crank side” ensures proper oil flow and bearing clearance.
cylinder head assembly
"Yeah. The whole cylinder head assembly. We haven't even touched the cylinder head yet."
The cylinder head assembly is the top part of the engine that sits above the cylinders. It’s where the valves live, and getting it assembled correctly is key to making sure the engine seals and runs right.
The cylinder head assembly includes the cylinder head and its attached components (often valves, valve springs, cam/rocker interfaces, and related hardware). In engine builds, it’s a major step because head sealing, fastener torque, and valve-train alignment affect compression and reliability.
Retorques
"Wow. Retorques. There's so much about engine."
Retorquing means you tighten certain bolts again after the engine parts have had time to settle. It helps keep everything clamped tightly so you don’t get leaks or loose parts.
Retorquing means re-checking and tightening engine fasteners after an initial torque step, often after the parts have settled or after a heat cycle. This helps maintain correct clamping force and can prevent leaks or loosening.
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