Also, check out our YouTube channel and the Facebook page.
We do the show live on video as we record the podcast you're about to hear, which is brought to you by
Berkeley One Classics, your key to collector car insurance.
And road ready wheels, replica OEM wheels add huge savings.
Use the offer code hoodie for even more.
And by car dash part, over 200 million used parts ready to ship to you fast.
Here is the Under the Hood Show podcast.
Thank you very much for listening.
This is Under the Hood.
Welcome to the Under the Hood Show.
We are glad to have you with us.
Russ Evans is here to answer your automotive questions.
Thanks for joining us under the hood.
Shannon Nordstrom is here to do the same.
Welcome, hoodies.
Thanks for tuning in so we can help you tune up.
I'm Chris Carter here to answer your calls at 866-594-4150.
Don't forget, you can watch the show on our YouTube channel.
And if you miss an episode, you can get it wherever you get your podcasts.
And actually, let's talk to John right now in Florida.
He is watching on YouTube.
John, what can we do for you?
Hey, how's it going?
I got a 2012 F-150 with a no crank, no start.
I have power.
The battery's good.
I swapped it with a known good one.
And then my truck is leaking oil a little bit.
So I went under and checked all the starter wires, took them apart,
took them off, cleaned the bolt and put them back and then swapped
some relays and fuses around.
And I was able to get it started a couple more times.
And then and then I went back to having a no crank, no start.
It sounds like maybe you've got a starter failing.
Did you test the starter with a voltmeter down there at the starter itself?
Yeah.
So I have power to that, the main right, the main line over there.
And then then I have ground on the ground cable as well.
So and then I had my wife try turning it over while I was testing the signal wire.
But I don't know if I don't think I was getting any volts there.
I'm not sure if that's how that is.
You know, you turn the wire and then you get both voltage.
When that signal wire, when the ignition is on, do you get any check engine lights or anything?
If you crank it for a few times and then you hold it, the check engine light will flash as like.
Oh, I read that on.
He posted that on your side like, oh, look at Chris go.
Well, you got to find out that wire, that small wire should have power
when you're cranking it.
And you need to find out if it's in theft mode or not.
You can do that with a scan tool.
The scan tool, if you go to the theft security, it'll tell you that it's locking it out,
that it's keeping it from cranking.
If it says start aloud and it's not doing that, then you got to diagnose and find out what's going on.
Those trucks don't have a lot of failures other than the starter itself, a battery or a theft problem
would not recognizing the key.
Makes it even harder when you've got one with a push button start.
Those are even more tricky to try to figure out what's going on.
You push the button and nothing happens.
But it's really hard to do anything without a scanner to read if it's a theft.
We had a neighbor that had a Ford truck that they fought and fought with this on,
on a no crank, no start.
It was a same similar year.
I remember him calling the show even.
I think his ended up being a, it was a cable issue.
It was a, one of the cables had a, had a short in it somewhere that would be intermittent and just,
I'm just trying to remember what that was.
They fought with it for a long time.
Real similar condition what you're talking about.
What a bummer to be your neighbor and still having to call the show to talk to Ross.
Yeah, well, it was one of our farmer neighbors around here from the selfish yard.
And they talked about bringing it into our friends at Midway and a couple other places.
Just remember the call.
I remember him talking about it.
And I think what Russ is suggesting is what you're on the right track.
You got to find out when it's not fire and what is happening.
And once you figure out what you're missing, if you don't have 12 volts at the exciter
wire, then you got to dig into why that is.
If you don't have, if you don't have a scanner and you can't tell whether or
not it's a security issue, you're going to beat your head against the wall a little bit.
It's a 12, you know, but he's in Florida, but still you'll want to look in the passenger side
foot well, the kick panel down there, pull that off and look at the wiring.
If this thing has been driven on the beach, if it's been wet or near the coast where
it can get salt water, you could have corrosion in that fuse box, which is also
the body control module down there and that will prevent it from starting.
And I've seen a number of them that look beautiful, clean on the outside.
And then I pull that carpet back and the floor is white with corrosion.
And I pull the box loose and it's corroded in there.
That will keep it from starting.
Yeah, it has never been on the beach.
And that's one of the first things I did was check that, you know,
put that kick panel off and check it.
And then I checked the door jam wires and I checked the wires that connect
to the letter on the driver's finger under the hood.
I checked those and then, yeah, I was going to take the starter off and then
that last pop bolt was going to be a really pretty good hard time.
So I got frustrated.
I just put everything back.
Oh, yeah, that's that top one.
You know, watch the YouTube videos and see how people do it.
It's tricky when we have to replace one of those.
We, we don't like that.
You're right.
He's on it.
There's just one.
He's got to get one more step.
I think so.
And if you have that thing where it's not starting and you can replicate it regularly
and it could just be that because you were moving wires around when you were
working on it and then it started again, that could confirm that it's
something inside of a inside of a wire or whatever it might happen to be.
Just so that's a, they're tricky when they're like that, but you have to
test it or else you're going to be really going crazy.
John, thanks very much for the call.
Good luck.
866-594-4150.
Let's talk to Robert.
You're on the end of the hood show.
Robert, what can we do for you?
Um, I've got a, uh, 2013 Chrysler Town and Country van.
And when you put on the turn signal to turn right, it blinks for about
like, um, six to nine times.
And then it goes into, uh, light bulb burned out and blinking fast.
But when you set the car van off and turn it back on, it'll do the same thing again.
Well, I appreciate you using your turn signal.
So many people talk about that.
But he's got a hyper one.
Right.
Yes.
It's sensing that there is a resistance issue in that circuit and it's either the
module that has failed causing that, or it really does have a resistance issue,
which can be a bulb burnt out, the wrong bulb installed.
We'll also do that or corrosion in any of the wiring for front or rear.
We usually find it in the rear.
A lot of times we find somebody's got a trailer light connector and that's
corroded and it's changing the resistance just enough that it goes into the bulb
failure mode and tells you that it's out.
A lot of times, even if you remove the bulb completely and turn it on, it'll
still blink normally for a few seconds before it starts flashing quickly.
It doesn't do it immediately.
Like you would think it would if it was old cars, have you checked
from outside to make sure all everything is blinking?
Yes, I have.
I put on the four way flashers and I walk around it and everything would blink.
And then after it goes for so many times, then that the front right blinker bulb
doesn't work anymore.
And then it when you just turn it on to turn right, it'll flash quickly.
So the front right bulb is the one that's out, even with the turn signal
hazard, anything that front right is out when it starts doing that.
Yeah, but it's on before it starts doing that.
Yeah, if it works for a few seconds every time and then goes off, that's
almost a hundred percent that it's the module.
OK, that forward control module that runs that it's it's common.
Robert, thanks very much for the call.
How long could you go just hitting your right blinker again and turning
it off and back on?
You would do that forever.
I would. Yeah, it'd be blink, blink, blink off.
Pretty blink, blink, blink off.
It would be a while. Yeah.
Although I would I would go bulb right away because I I I don't know.
You guys know this.
I'm a master at changing headlight bulbs.
Dorman products sells a lot of those modules that are pre-programmed ready to go.
I think this is one that may be covered in that.
You can go to dormantproducts.com to find out and watch YouTube
to see the video about those.
But I believe that's one that's covered at such a failure in these
that for a lot of years that they made a lot of products to cover those.
Sometimes you can look up the vehicle and just do the drop down list
to see what parts they sell for that vehicle.
And you kind of can learn what some of the common
Yeah, that is a pretty cool thing with their menu.
Toyota Prius, I could switch it.
I could make a business out of that.
I could I would be on top of that for 10 bucks a change.
I could do it. I could do it in 10 seconds.
I've changed my share.
I don't know that you could make a huge income on that.
Standard. That's what I'm doing right now.
866-594-4150.
That's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.
Let's go to California and talk to Joe.
You're on the end of the hood show.
Joe, what can we do for you?
I've got a 2016 Ram 1500 with the Eco diesel and been a great truck.
Never have any problems with it.
But every time I fill the depth tank, it throws a code
and the code is P20EE and it'll be on for two or three days.
And then it'll be then it'll go off and not come back on again
till I fill the depth tank again.
I've seen that a few times before and most of our customers
that had that had it rectified with a reprogramming of the software
in the computer that took care of it.
When it saw that sudden change, it just messed up its algorithm
and needed to be reflashed.
OK, it just didn't adjust well to change.
Yeah, that may take that may take care of it, the flash.
But I would consult with the dealer and I'd ask, tell them what it's doing
and ask them, hopefully you're going to talk to somebody
that knows what they're talking about and knows what to look for.
Instead of just saying, bring it in and we'll try to look at everything.
That's a that's a pretty common thing.
Would that be still under the emissions warranty?
That's an interesting one years.
No, because it's not affecting emissions.
OK, the reading, the reading of it is not affecting emissions.
I sure ask, you know, right.
A failed catalytic converter that has a code
that's putting out pollution, a failed.
Particulate filter is putting out emissions,
but a light that comes on for no emissions change
is not considered a federal emissions thing.
OK, that's an electronics issue.
It's not actually a failure of the part.
I'd still ask you to try.
Said help you out there, Joe.
It does. Thank you.
Thanks very much for the call.
866-594-4150.
Let's talk to Catherine in Texas.
Catherine, you're on the end of the hood show.
What can we do for you?
Hi, yes.
My husband gave me your number and he listens to you.
He loves you all.
And he suggested I call y'all and let y'all know what's going on with my car,
because I have taken it to six different places
and nobody's been able to figure it out.
So the problem is it's whenever I am breaking, it's got like a
like it's trying to hold on to it and it kind of jerks a little bit.
It's making a very strange noise.
I got new shock thinking that was it.
I got new brakes thinking that was it.
It's still there.
And when I bought the car, it was there when I got it,
but it continually just gets worse and worse.
I've had it for about a year and a half now.
And I'm telling you, like it's a big mystery.
OK, let's let's just back up the bus here a little bit.
I know for a Corolla and so when you high speed breaking, low speed breaking,
what do we got going on here?
Any breaking, I try to baby the car.
So I'm never really just like stomping on my brakes or anything.
But if I am going fast and then try to like say, I have a red light
or light turns red or yellow and I'm trying to like, oh, OK.
Oh, it's making that kind of noise.
And is it are you feeling the noise?
Yes, yes.
It's kind of rubbing.
Yes, it's a rubbing.
So I first thought it was the brakes.
We got the brakes redone completely, the drum, the brakes pads, everything.
And it was still there.
Took it back to the guy that did it.
And he's like, well, I don't really know what to tell you.
And I took it to another place.
I took it to the Toyota dealer and they still couldn't figure it out.
They heard it, though, right?
Right. Yes, they heard it.
They felt it.
They were trying to, I feel like throw parts at it to make it
better and and that wasn't it.
So that wasn't working for me either.
So do they know which corner of the vehicle it is?
Or is it all for it?
It's in the back.
Well, it is in the back.
See, that car beat that would be drum brakes or disc brakes in the back drum
in the rear disc in the front.
I mean, the dealer should know what's going on if they hear that.
But if it's coming from the back and you've got drum brakes going on,
you got parking brake and everything back there.
You should be able to.
You should be able to figure that out.
But a lot of times with with those the drums, they will rub on the backing plates.
But only when the car is on the ground and you're stopping,
you put it in the air and you raise it and you can turn them.
And there's no there's no contact until it's on the ground.
And the wheel bearings flex a little bit.
They move and they grind.
It might be the backing plate.
So what we do when we're looking for that is we pull the drum off
and we look at the back and see if it's shiny.
If it's shiny all the way around on both the drum and the backing plate,
maybe take a little bit of flat black paint and spray on both of them.
Not on the pads, just on that surface.
Put it back on and run it.
Take it back off and see if it wore off in a spot.
If it did, I know I've got to modify that plate a little bit.
But brake noise is just Corolla.
Oh, for Corolla.
Yeah, they've had a few with some brake noise,
but nothing that was not able to be fixed.
Right. You know, it's just a.
Unless there's a top isolator bad on the shock absorbers
and they didn't replace that.
And when they, when the car rocks it.
But what she's describing sounds like a rotational noise.
The faster you go, the brakes hard.
And you mentioned even grabbing, I thought she said.
Yeah. And an out of round brake.
Yeah. Out of round brake drums will cause it to grab.
Have they put new, not just you said they put new brakes on it,
but did they put both drums and shoes in the rear, replace the whole thing
or did they just put new shoes on it?
The whole thing, the drum, everything.
Hmm. Did it fix it right away?
And then it came back again.
It seemed like it got a little bit better, but then it just got worse again.
And as the time goes, like as I keep driving it,
because I don't drive it a lot, like I said, just to work in back.
But it seems like with time, it just keeps getting worse and worse.
And when it rains, I feel like it gets worse too.
Like it gets moisture in something.
Yeah, that'll do it.
You know what?
And a lot of times when, so where did they put the brakes on at?
Were they done at the dealership or just a repair shop somewhere?
A repair shop.
Okay.
There's different types of brakes that can be used back there.
A lot of times people get on the Toyota forums,
online or the Honda or Chevy Dodge, whatever it is.
And they'll look and see what people have had luck with.
And a lot of times you'll see where they say,
I've had horrible luck with all the brakes except for this one.
And then somebody else will say, I've used that brand too,
and they work great.
It's just with the design of the factory brakes.
Certain ones will not work as well as others.
And we're assuming also the car has all the right size tires on it and rims.
Nothing's been modified on that.
Correct.
I'm assuming so.
Yes, sir.
Everything that when I got the car, the guy was a one-time owner and he had it
since he bought it in 2004 and he had all the receipts from every thing he ever
got done on the car.
So I feel like he was a good car owner.
Yeah.
So I feel like it was legit, you know?
And nobody has told you that this is unsafe or anything when they look at
it.
They don't see anything that makes them go, oh, look at this or anything
like that.
No, every single person I've taken it to says your vehicle is safe because
that's a big concern of mine.
Sure.
Russ, could it have a...
And everybody's like...
Could have a wheel bearing starting to go bad that nobody's noticing and it's
letting the brakes shift around in there?
For sure.
A rear wheel bearing?
Well, I got the wheel bearings looked at and I would say the majority of
people said they were good.
I had one person tell me it was bad, but I felt like he might have been
trying to take advantage, you know, how that goes.
Maybe I need to go get that looked at again.
I don't know.
I'm just trying to think of anything that's back there that could
have been causing it to move and cause problems.
Yeah, this is a hard one.
You've had it to six places and we were hoping we could fix it over the
air, but a lot of discussion, good things to think about.
I would go back to the first place to put the brakes on and just
tell them to say, hey, you know, can we just look at this a
little bit closer?
And if you can replicate the noise or the grab easily, if it
happens, it'll replicate it every time.
If you have an experienced tech, I would guess like Russ, you
know, an experienced tech that's done a lot of stuff, seen a
lot of stuff, heard a lot of stuff, and they rode along.
They would go, oh, oh, I think I know what I'm going to look
at because they can just feel it.
Right.
Catherine, good luck.
That is, that sounds the fact that it's still safe.
That's good.
But man, what a, it sounds irritating.
Good luck.
The end of the hood show podcast is brought to you by
exclusive sponsors like Berkeley One Classics, celebrating
50 years, your key to collector car insurance.
And by car-part.com with over 200 million parts.
Find them online at car-part.com and by Road Ready
Wheels, OEM replica wheels at a huge savings, RoadReadyWheels.com.
Thanks for listening to the Under the Hood Show podcast.
This is for those of you who need a new wheel or a set of
wheels due to damage or leaks.
You've heard people call our show with wheels that are
constantly leaking air have been damaged in some way.
Maybe that person is you, or maybe you want a set of spare
wheels that you can install on your vehicle over the
winter months with snow tires to avoid damaging your
nice summer wheels.
RoadReadyWheels has replacement wheels for many OEM
manufacturers at substantial cost savings.
These wheels look and perform like OEM wheels, so save
money and go with RoadReadyWheels when you need a
replacement.
Are you tired of needing to add air to your tires every few
days because your wheels have been eaten away by road salt
and corrosion?
A new set of wheels from RoadReadyWheels is the
cost-saving way to go.
A new set of RoadReadyWheels will stop the leaks.
Do you have factory steel wheels and have shopped in
the seemingly endless and expensive aftermarket wheel
scene not knowing what to get, but you want a
better look?
RoadReadyWheels can help you upgrade to factory
looking OEM aluminum wheels.
Over 40,000 wheels with free shipping available and
returns with a one-year warranty.
Under-the-hood listeners save 10% when you use the code
hoodie at checkout.
These wheels are a direct fit, so your factory caps and
TPMS sensors will fit.
Find out more and order yours at RoadReadyWheels.com.
Hey, it's Chris Carter with Russ Evans and Shannon
Nordstrom Under-the-hood.
When you need great coverage for your ride, Berkeley
One Classics is here for you.
They'll work with you to help determine the amount
of coverage a vehicle like yours should have, and
that coverage is agreed value coverage, so there's no
disagreement on what your vehicle is covered for.
They also have discounts for car club members.
For 50 years, Berkeley One Classics has ensured a wide
range of vehicles from sports cars and rare exotic
cars to antique vehicles, including cars, trucks,
tractors, military vehicles and motorcycles.
Over 50,000 of them a year.
They give you confidence in your vehicle's protection.
Find Berkeley One Classics on the web at
BerkeleyClassics.com.
Get a free quote and find out firsthand what they
can save you and how well they can cover your
valuable investment.
It takes just a few minutes using their easy online
quote tool.
BerkeleyClassics.com or call 1-800-603-3330.
That's 800-603-3330.
When you need parts for your car, finding them
is half the battle, and we have a great source
for you to find those parts you need at
great prices.
If you need parts, whether it be for a brand
new car or going back about 20 years, it doesn't
matter, check out car-part.com.
It's fast and it's easy.
Over 200 million parts strong all across North
America.
Over 4,000 recyclers to choose from, giving you
the largest selection available.
Whether it's an engine, transmission, doors,
seats or wheels, you can find them on
car-part.com.
We even let you know what parts from other
models and years fit your car.
Many recyclers supply pictures of their parts
too.
We even have a mobile app.
Search US and Canada or buy from your local
independent recycler.
Whichever you choose, buying recycled is good
for the environment and good for your wallet.
If you're a repair shop, there is a professional
version available for you at no charge.
That's car-part.com.
Car-part.com.
Check it out today.
Welcome back, everybody.
It's time to get back under the hood with
our motor medics.
866-594-4150.
Don't forget, you can watch the show on
our YouTube channel if you subscribe there
and join the Hoodie Fan Club at
underthehoodshow.com.
You could win a hoodie.
Like Bob Withers.
Hey, Bob.
Hey, Bob.
Congratulations for everybody here under
the hood and our friends over at Berkeley
One Classics.
They're celebrating 50 years of collector
car coverage and our friends over at
Universal Technical Institute, UTI.edu.
866-594-4150.
Let's talk to Jake.
You're on the end of the Hood Show.
Jake, what can we do for you?
Hey, so I got a 2008 F-350
and supposedly has a newer
rebuilt engine in it.
And the guy that had it before put a
single turbo on it and bigger injectors.
Well, we took out the bigger injectors
and put three man factory injectors in it.
But when you're going down the road,
you can get on it and it
seems like it has pretty OK power.
But when you let off, it just
white smoke comes out the exhaust.
Any ideas?
Well, you might have a fuel leak
going on somewhere or a failure.
And one of those a lot of times you
put injectors in, you know,
they've got to be super clean when
they go in.
Everything has to be just right.
You got to determine if you have
a fuel leak or if you've got.
You know, the failed injector can be a leaky,
you know, leaky fuel there as well.
It definitely sounds like you're over
fueling it, you dump and fuel down into it.
A lot of fuel.
Yeah, before with the old injectors,
it was kind of having a white hazy smoke
at idle.
And now with these three man injectors,
it's only when you let off.
And can you smell?
He's really laggy.
Yeah.
Coming out the exhaust a little bit.
OK, yeah, it's just the white smoke
is concerning when you.
Well, making sure it's not
anaphyse coming out of there
because you would you would smell that.
No, we we did a diesel.
Test the diesel exhaust gas test
in the coolant reservoir.
And I don't know how accurate them are,
but pretty close.
No, no signs of diesel exhaust gas
in the coolant.
So sort of ruled that out as the truck
ever had any other modifications
done to the computer or anything like that.
Yeah, I mean, it has it's all deleted.
It's got a single turbo and it has a
tow tune, you know, kind of a mild tune on it.
And when you say single, easy link,
it's just not a variable geometry turbo.
It's just a fixed turbo.
Yeah, well, it's not a dual compound.
Right. They usually put the dual compound turbo.
You said this is a single slot.
You said this is a six over a six four.
Four. OK, I see that.
It must be. Is it an O nine?
Eight. End of O eight.
O eight. OK, because I thought those were O nine, 10.
Yeah, yeah. So, you know, O eight, 10. Yeah.
Yeah.
That's that's going to be something
you're going to have to get into a diesel shop
and have them look at that closer to find out
where you're losing it.
But it's definitely, it sounds like it's overfueling.
And if that's got a tune in it and, you know,
and then plus they put a different turbo on there, just the tune
could be part of it.
I mean, you may have to go back to stock
because if you've got a tune for bigger
injectors and you have stock injectors now can cause some issues.
But it sounds like your
his tuner was just more of a mild tuner.
But there's just enough going on there.
You get we had easy link.
Put it back to stock.
We got an easy link.
How do we put it back to stock injectors?
But it's still got that single turbo on it,
which is different than factory.
That's for sure.
Because they they those those things.
Yeah, that was the bridge between the the next generation
power stroke and the old six.
So that was that was the bridge.
Well, the the the by turbo is on there, kept
a little bit of airflow at the idle speed
so that they didn't have that lag when you step on it.
So if you're taking away boost and airflow,
you're going to get a little more fuel there
when you let off it.
That's expected to be blowing air in there.
So that could be doing it on its own.
And it might be something you could put up.
If it's normal, it might be something you can put up with.
With, you know, if you had,
if your choice was to swap the turbos
or have it tuned out of there for a single turbo.
Jake, thanks very much for the call.
Well, good luck. A little bit of a couple
of decisions to be made there.
Yeah.
866-594-4150.
Let's go to Kentucky and talk to Dave.
You're on the end of the hood.
So Dave, what can we do for you?
Oh, thanks for taking my call.
I've got an 07 2007 Honda Accord.
It's got the 3.0.
Regardless, it's got a lot of miles on it.
And when I started up and get ready to take off,
sometimes I hear this popping noise,
particularly if I start to turn the wheel a little bit.
I suspect from what I can gather,
it's probably the drive shafts.
Does that sound about right, the CV shaft?
If you're, if you're in a straight line
and you step on the gas and you have a click,
that's typically the inner joint on the CV shaft.
If you have a noise when you turn it and accelerate,
it's usually the outer joint.
Yeah, so it's either way,
it's likely a CV shaft that's giving you all that noise issue.
And if it's got a lot of miles on it, you also want to...
And with all that being said,
you also want to check the motor mounts on it
also to make sure things aren't shifting around
just with the age you get them on.
Oh yeah, right.
I've had most of the motor man's replace
since I've had the car.
Okay.
It seems like, yeah, that's a chronic thing.
Getting back to the drive shafts, let me mention this.
I like to stay as much as possible with OEM parts.
When I tried to get the OEM drive shafts,
they're over $1,000 each.
And when I get on Rockato or some of these sites,
they're like 150.
But what I'd like to know is there one brand
that's not OEM that's going to be similar to the OEM?
Or would you happen to know anything about that?
They're all good and they just don't have very many failures.
That's a part that's really hard to screw up.
I would not go with a factory part.
Those are...
There's so much money and there's just no reason to go with that.
I mean, they can be five times the cost of a...
An aftermarket shaft is probably $132,000.
Well, he said $150,000 on Rockato.
Yeah.
So depending on where you go, even a parts store,
maybe $180,000, $190,000, maybe less.
I mean, you don't just think a lot of people go to a place
like Rockato thinking that they're the lowest price or Amazon.
They're not always the lowest price.
Sometimes you can find a better quality part
at less money at an auto parts store, a big box brand named Store.
So check that.
How many miles do you have on the car?
Yeah.
I've got about $198,000.
And it's an 07?
You could just if you were...
Yes, sir.
If you were adventurous,
you could go on to car-part.com and see if anyone has that
application in a car that got wrecked with low miles on it.
Now, that's getting old enough.
It's going to be harder.
But if you could find somebody that had a 70...
Oh, you get an OEM.
You get a 75,000-mile shaft that somebody had a car accident with.
I'd look at the pictures to make sure it's an accident vehicle.
And the VIN numbers are usually available on a lot of that stuff.
So you can double check.
But that's an option too.
A lot of people will buy a...
We do sell not a ton of recycled original equipment axle shafts.
But we definitely...
We have cars we take apart today that have 10,000 miles on them.
And that shaft might sit on the shelf for five years.
And then the market starts catching up with it.
And there's always kind of a recycling of those parts.
So sometimes across the country, you can find somebody that's got
one that died on the shelf and they might sell it for 50 bucks
plus shipping and it's got 42,000 miles on it.
And what I like about Car Dash Part 2 is it might be a place that's 30 miles away.
Yep.
It covers all of the country and some of the...
But if you bring it up, though, and you look and you sort by miles
and you see everything's got 150,000 miles on it,
unless somebody's got a note in there that says OEM replacement,
which they would probably never know.
Right.
Then that option is probably not good for that situation.
Might as well just go.
Yeah.
Dave, thanks very much for the call.
Good luck. 866-594-4150.
Let's go to Kansas and talk to Heath.
You're on the end of the Hood Show, Heath.
What can we do for you?
I have a 2011 Equinox four-cylinder.
And I'm trying to figure out what's with the shifting on the low end.
Like it misses its shift points or something.
Say I'm going down the highway and I want to make a...
Come to an intersection and I want to make a turn.
You know, let off the foot fee, let a coast or whatever, break.
Making a turn.
And then if I get on the accelerator, it like misses its shift point.
Yep.
I'm assuming I'm in, I don't know, lower or second year.
That's not good.
Finally, the size of the shift and, but if I notice, I can't remember it ever doing it
when it's cold.
It's always when it's like 80 or 80 between 80 and 100 degrees.
Yeah.
A transmission shop can look at it and verify what it could be, but we do see this very
often on those and most of the time the transmission is failing and needs to be replaced.
It's clutches that are wearing inside.
The computer is changing the shift points and the shift pressures trying to overcome that
and they would be able to see that on their scan tool to look at the clutches and see
what the pressures are and see if it is starting to fail.
They may tell you though on the bright side that while it looks like it's got a
solenoid failing, some valves sticking, we may be able to flush it, clean it up, maybe
work on the valve body and fix it.
And know that maybe it's going to break, but you get another chunk of time.
So in the worst case, it's going to need a replacement transmission.
In the best case, they may be able to fix it for four, five hundred bucks and get you
going again.
And in the worst case, can you just keep, I mean, you can, if it has to be replaced.
If you drive it until it fails, if you're driving it around town, it will get a lot worse.
And you can make sure that the place you bring it to has that ability to hook a scanner to
it and watch what's going on and be able to tell.
You don't have any other check engine lights on, I don't believe.
No, huh?
Yeah.
So that's something that if you look at that and they're going to be looking at
the data, not a code to see what's happening and they'll be able to determine that.
And it'd be great if they said, oh yeah, you've got a speed sensor issue and it doesn't
know where it's at in gear and it's just hunting.
I mean, but they'll be able to tell those things and you might have to spend a hundred and
fifty bucks to do it, but it would be well worth it.
Heath, thanks very much for the call.
Good luck.
866-594-4150.
Let's talk to Courtney here on the end of the Hood Show, Courtney.
What can we do for you?
Hello.
I have a question about my 2024 GMC Sierra, it's a one ton 3500.
The radio is all black on it and it won't respond.
And there's also a humming sound like a tune fork that is coming from the dash and that
is going 24-7, even when the pickup is off.
Interesting.
It's toast.
For sure.
So a 24-1 ton has that, so you've got the new style, the wider radio in it.
Yeah, you've got a big display.
Yep.
Yep.
And everything's out on it, right?
You don't have radio, you don't have, you know, backup camera, none of that is there
on that screen.
Correct.
It's just black.
Okay.
If the whole thing is black, something's gone.
It could be the human interface modules, what they call it, because it's interfacing
everything from there to the computer.
The screens, we've only had problems with, if from we've seen on those so far, it's got
broken in accident.
Yeah.
And you won't hear any noise.
Yeah.
That humming noise, something electronically as out, it's going to run the battery down
eventually.
More than just a few.
Oh, yeah.
Yeah.
Most likely more than just a few.
You've got a noise in the background, so something is hard fail on it.
And it's, if I'm guessing, I'm saying probably the human interface module.
So you got a 24-truck, this is out of warranty, right?
Still in warranty.
Oh, it is.
Well, then make them fix it.
Make them fix it.
I just run into, I do run into a lot of people with this style truck that is out of warranty.
Because they put so many miles on it.
Yeah.
Right.
And it's barely a year old.
We have a ton of parts.
Yeah.
So I've got people calling me saying like my 6.2 liter engines out and they won't
cover it under the recall because it's got 112,000 miles or whatever.
And they're like, ooh.
So same with this radio.
If the radio is out, I'd make them fix it.
But more than likely they're going to tell you that it's the, I think it's going to
be the human interface module, which is the module that transfers everything on that
touchscreen to the computer to make it operate.
And that's what runs the volume up and down.
That's what, you know, does all of that, the car play, the Apple and Android and
all that buttons right on there through that.
Did you say something about your HVAC system, your fan or anything?
No.
Okay.
No.
Okay.
No.
Okay.
Okay.
Yeah.
That, yeah, that's the humming noises is an indication that it's, it's stuck in
a mode.
Yeah.
They do have a, they do have a challenge in these newer trucks where they got to
reprogram the gateway module and a friend of mine explained it to me because I, I got
to get mine in, but when you first take off, I got a 22 and a half Silverado.
And when you take off your first start of the day, usually every time it, the radio
cuts in and out.
And what it is, is they've got some problem conflict on the network and it has to do
with the automatic temp control.
Okay.
And when the automatic temp control fan starts ramping up or ramping down, it affects the
radio makes it shut down and they got to do some reprogramming of the gateway module to
make that problem go away.
So there's things, sometimes it can just be weird little hiccups, but this sounds like
a little more than that.
These new trucks, they do all sorts of things.
If you haven't driven a newer vehicle lately, like if your cell phone is on and you're
using car player and it's interfaced, when a call comes in and you start talking,
it not only mutes the radio, but it lowers the blower speed enough to, so you can
hear better, but not so much that it makes the car hotter.
It will actually dial the temp down to a cooler position and lower the speed to try to keep
it just as cool in there.
But if it's already on max, it's only so much it can do.
It's got, there's a lot of electronic tie in there.
Courtney, thanks very much for the call.
That reminds me, I was thinking about this the other day.
I feel bad for, I mean, when we were kids, well, the car stereo thieves.
I mean, how do you make a living these days?
Things take the whole car.
Is that just it?
Jack it up a whole little way.
Remember going to the gas station guy would have some speakers and you'd be like,
what kind of speakers?
And they didn't do that anymore.
There's, yeah, there's nothing to grab.
Well, everything's changing.
Let's talk to Pat.
You're on the under the hood show.
Pat, what can we do for you?
Hi guys, thanks for taking my call.
I'm a not a long time listener, but I'm listening for a while when I can.
And I appreciate all your guys advice and knowledge and experience and everything.
Anyway, thanks.
My wife and I have a 2015 Subaru Outback that we purchased from the original owner
about a year and a half ago and we purchased it and when I test drove it,
I noticed the brake pedal was kind of soft, but well, that's okay.
That's not a problem.
I can fix that.
I've been, I've been wrenching on tinkering with cars for about 30 years
and there's not a whole lot that I haven't done on a car as far as repairs.
And I put a master cylinder on it.
No change.
Okay, I'll dig a little deeper into this.
So I started jacked it up, pulled the wheels.
Okay, it needs brakes.
So it got new pads and rotors all the way around, ran into a bad caliper.
Replace that a little better.
Then I was starting to get confused.
Like, okay, there's no leaks.
I've, I've bled this thing and bled this thing and bled this thing.
I've got one of those keg style pressure bleaters.
You hook up to the master cylinder and you just crack the bleed screw open
when it's under pressure and it forces everything through.
Did that took it to a local GM dealership.
Since we don't have a Subaru dealer nearby.
And I had them bleed it by activating the ABS module and hopefully made me
there's some air caught in there or something that made a little bit better.
But still, of all the cars I've owned over my so many trips around the sun,
the pedals just still felt soft.
So I went the extra mile, unloaded the parts, cannon at it and replaced all the
calipers, all the hoses.
So now it's got new master cylinder, calipers, hoses, pads, rotors.
Still doesn't feel right.
It's better, but still doesn't feel right.
Recently, in fact, just a week ago, and I've been fighting this for a year
and a half now, no, it's safe to drive.
I took it out on a gravel road.
I hammered the brakes and the ABS kicked in and it came to a stop and the
pedal never really did go quite to the floor, but it just felt really low.
A lot of travel before it would do much.
Just a few days ago, I noticed one of the parking brake actuator
motors was not working.
So I removed it and found brake fluid in it.
So one of the new calipers I had was bad.
So I replaced that.
They warrantied that.
Replace the actuator motor.
It's a lot better now.
So what I think what was happening is the fluid is leaking past that stem
that the actuator runs and it was filling my actuator motor with brake fluid.
So that's never helpful.
But it's better now, but it's still softer than I feel it should be.
What do I look at next?
Well, you said they had at the dealership, they bled your brakes, but
there's another test that you can do in there.
When you replace those calipers with the electronic parking
brake, you absolutely must use a scan tool and put them in.
You hit the retract button.
They retract.
You remove them, put the new ones on, then you put them back in the normal
mode, but you also do the parking brake self test, self learn mode.
And what it does is it, it runs the caliper all the way in, so loose
away from the caliper, and then it runs them out all the way until
they're pressed as hard as they possibly can up against the rotor.
And the amperage load changes and the module senses that and says,
okay, we're tight.
And then it knows how many turns to back them off so that it
takes up all the slack back there.
If that's not done, you'll have too much slack and your pedal be softer.
That's why when you put this new caliper on, that procedure wasn't done,
but it was already a little closer than the old one was.
So it's, it was already closer.
And that's, that's anytime you have a slack, it's like old drum
brakes that you've obviously worked on, you know, in your history.
And those, the tighter they are, the higher the pedal is.
To a point before they start dragging, but if you leave them a quarter
inch or an eighth inch away from the drum, they're going to, you're
really going to go a long way.
It's amazing how little you have to move those drum brakes in order
to get that pedal feel up higher.
So I think that's what's happening on yours.
They probably need noddle relearned on, which would be a
simple procedure with a scanner.
Great.
Well, I've got one of those on the way.
A by, a by little scanner.
My old snap on one just doesn't cut in it anymore.
Your part scan was full.
I failed to mention that when I bought the car, the master
cylinder looked like it was already brand new.
Oh, wow.
Have you, have you just for fun jumped in another one to
see what the pedal feels like?
I did.
I went to a local GM dealership that had a slightly later model
one on, on hand for a used vehicle, a pre-owned and yeah,
it felt better.
Yeah.
No, I've, I've sometimes there's certain vehicles that have a
feel to them that's different than another vehicle.
And I've encouraged people, go drive another one.
And they're like, oh yeah, mine's way different.
Pat, thanks very much for the call.
Good luck.
Uh, when I do that, Shannon, when I go to the, the, and I
go, Hey, I see you have a 2015 Subaru.
Do I have to pretend that I might buy it?
Or do I go to them just out of the blue and say, Hey, I
have one of these.
Can I drive all depends on your personality and what you
think you can do.
Okay.
I, all right.
I would, I would full on have a whole story.
I would not.
I would say, Hey, you know what?
I've got one of these.
I love it.
I need to drive this one and see if it's similar to mine
because I'm having a problem.
Do you mind?
Oh, see, now I would go in and I would, like when I
bring something back, uh, say I, I buy the wrong size shoe.
When I go back, I have a full backstory on why the shoe is
perfect.
They did nothing wrong.
My wife tells me, she goes, they don't need to know
that much.
Yeah, that's when I played some football and high school
and I get, you know, I still have an old injury and it's
all about personality type.
But I was, I was in the Merchant Marine and it, uh, oh,
it's done.
Okay.
It's just back on my card.
All right.
Let's talk to Rich here on the end of the Hood Show.
Rich, what can we do for you?
I have a 2008 Ford Ranger with 287,000 miles on it.
And, uh, an occasion and I've checked the fluid that
I don't think that's what the problem is, but I've got this,
uh, light on the dash and it's not like, but it's the engine.
Uh, and then there's a red thing, like the engine and there's
a red lighter on it.
What does that mean?
It's on the, uh, on the dashboard.
So it's like an engine symbol?
Like, yeah, right.
An engine symbol, but then it's got a red lighter on it.
A red circle?
Red circle.
Yeah.
It just outlined the engine with, with red.
That's just a check engine, a check engine light.
The red is unusual.
Has an, an engine on it.
Oh, anything that's an engine picture is a check engine light.
I'm just trying to remember that though.
Is this separate from your, now when you turn the key on, does it
have an amber check engine light as well?
Uh, no, no, it, uh, it was, it was off, it was off.
And then I filled gas in, uh, started down the road.
It came back on and right now it's off.
Yeah.
There's a few cars that have a, a check engine light that's got a
red outline around it like that.
Um, the amber is the universal symbol for the check engine light,
but sometimes they'll put a red line around them.
If you filled it with gas and it came on and now it's off.
It probably is an issue with your evap canister.
They don't usually last that long.
Uh, we put a lot of evap canisters on.
Uh, that is something that our partner in standard motor
products makes a lot of, and the reason they make so many of them
is because so many of them fail.
They fit so many cars.
There's a wide range of them that are made a lot of different
makes and models, but it's very common.
And what happens is when you, when you fill that, and
it's more than just the canister, you know, they make
the canister and the vent valve, the purge valve on the
engine, when you're filling with fuel, you'll either, it'll
be hard to fill and it'll kick off too soon.
You can't put it on a high speed to fill it and lock it.
It keeps shutting off.
Or when you fill it, it will overfill and not shut off and
spill into the canister and damage the canister because
the canister is already damaged.
So it's becoming further loaded up with fuel and damaging itself.
And sometimes they're just life.
It's just been hard and it's, they're done, you know,
that happens, but usually it's only got so many miles.
Yeah, but usually it's because they've been overfilled on.
That's what the most common thing, or people that do a ton of
gravel road driving can raise heck with the evaporative
emission systems too.
But it's not, if the vehicle runs good and is working
good and the light's going off, let not your heart be
troubled.
Mm hmm.
All right.
Welcome to the aftershow.
Anything else going on?
You drove across country.
Did you see cool stuff?
I mean, just visually, I really wish that the route would
have had us going through the mountains of Colorado in the
daytime instead of the nighttime.
Well, it would have if you would have left earlier later.
Boy, is that that was you.
I mean, I know it was nothing.
I'm just saying, whatever circumstance is mostly mine.
I would mostly I would have liked to have seen that
in a day.
Okay.
All right.
I got you.
It was, you seem mad at the route.
Well, OK, all fairness.
I was not really eager to get up and get going Sunday morning.
OK.
Oh, yeah, yeah.
Fair.
I was and we had open presents at noon.
And so we, yeah, I had a good excuse.
You wanted to just sleep in and I hurt.
My legs hurt.
Oh, I wonder.
Do a little dancing, were we?
We were, yeah, we were in full gear.
So stayed up all night.
Yeah, we had we had the we had the petal of the floor.
Were you competing with people a third of your age?
Yep.
You don't do the splits, do you?
No, but I just I did it by accident, I think.
Were you were you outperforming some of the people?
I don't hurt of your age.
I think so.
I've got an uncle who is famous for he he used to break out
the splits when he would dance.
And so every five or 10 years we get out there and somebody goes,
hey, can you still do the splits?
And he still does.
And I don't think it's I think that's going to be he's going
to ruin someone's wedding when he just yep, he's going to go
down and that'll be it because it's something else.
Yeah, I know I have I do I'm not a good dancer, but I do
a lot of knee and hip movements.
Okay.
And we were the old Animal House song shout.
I wanted to see how low I could get and I miscalculated the
the the tension on the dress shoes, the tuxedo shoes and
the and the smoothness of the floor.
And I that was where you that's kind of extended myself
a little extra.
Then I look over my sister.
She's on her back.
She's lower than anybody.
Everybody's like, what's your sister doing on the ground?
I go, haven't you guys ever seen the movie?
No kidding.
You know, it was bad.
Yeah, it was fine.
I tell you what it was.
It was really a good time and it's to have everybody fit right
in, whether you were 20 or 80, everybody was acting like they
were all the same age.
It was fun.
It was a yeah, it was a good rally's got a great group of
frat brothers that they know how to have a good time.
And so I kind of knew this was going to be a trouble spot.
So I was surprised how many of them listened to the radio show.
At least they've heard of it and they knew it and they've
listened a few times.
There was a few, a few that were diehards, one in particular
that was like over the top super diehard really knew one
or at least one or at least friends tie had at the wedding.
He came to me and he was standing there.
He goes, you know how to get to the to the reception?
I said, well, yeah, it's Highway 34 outside of town about eight
miles, look for the Nordstrom sign on the side and and it's
an old sign.
And he goes, no, no, he goes, I need a ride.
And I go, he goes, I got dropped off here at the church.
And he goes, I don't have a ride.
And he had been at our house one time with Riley.
So I kind of recognized him.
And I was sitting there talking to Russ and Michelle at
the same time.
I go, you guys got any room for your vehicle?
So and then later that night, he did come up to me and
tell me he goes, that was really cool to get to ride with
Russ. He said, he goes, he goes, Riley and I had watched
the show together a few times and he goes, I just always
thought it was kind of fun.
So that was a big deal to him that he got to ride with
Russ. Cool.
Yeah, I have done it.
It's pretty well.
It's good to have them with us too.
It was fun.
That's cool.
All right.
Well, thanks, everybody.
Make sure you hit subscribe and like and do all that
stuff with the YouTube.
We appreciate it very much.
Thanks for watching with Russ Evans.
This is Shannon Nortz from thanking you for tuning into
the Nortzers Under the Hood Show.
Have a great day and remember PTLA.
The opinions heard on this program, based on the
many years of experience of Russ and Shannon, are offered
for entertainment value only and as a guide to your
repair needs.
No claim to repair or cause is given or implied.
Always consult with your own certified technician and
follow all safety procedures before attempting
any repair.
To be a part of the show, call 866-594-4150.
Find out more by visiting undertheshow.com.
Under the Hood is produced by Prairie House Productions.
All content is the property of Nordstroms Automotive
Incorporated and may not be used without our
permission.
Copyright Nordstroms Automotive Inc.
About this episode
Listeners dive into various automotive issues, including troubleshooting a 2012 F-150 with a no crank, no start problem, and a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country experiencing turn signal issues. The hosts provide insights on diagnosing electrical problems, checking for corrosion, and the importance of using proper diagnostic tools. They also discuss a 2016 Ram 1500's DEF tank code issue and a 2008 Ford Ranger with a mysterious dashboard light. The episode is packed with practical advice and real-life stories from callers, making it a valuable resource for DIY enthusiasts.
2012 F150 Ford no crank 2013 Town and Country fast bulb flash 2016 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel DEF light only after refill 04 Corolla brake grab 08 F350 Ford white exhaust smoke 07 Accord popping sound from CV shaft 2011 Equinox transmission bad shifting 24 GMC Sierra black radio screen 15 Subaru low brake pedal feel 08 Ranger Evap canister failure