Shannon Bought A New Tesla and Got A Warning From Tesla

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Thanks for listening to the Under the Hood show podcast, here's the show.

This is Under the Hood.

Welcome to the Under the Hood show, we are glad to have you with us, Russ Evans is here

to answer your automotive questions.

Hey, thanks for joining us Under the Hood.

Shannon Nordstrom is here to do the same.

Welcome hoodies, thanks for tuning in so we can help you tune up.

I'm Chris Carter here to answer your calls at 866-594-4150, 866-594-4150.

What has caught your attention in the automotive world?

There was an event that happened in my family that my wife and I had a discussion and we

determined that when we got married, we did not think this is something that would

ever happen.

Okay.

Did not think it was something that would even exist?

Oh, I think I know where you're going.

Do I?

Do I know where?

Yeah, we bought an electric vehicle.

You bought an electric vehicle?

Yeah.

I don't think we should, we shouldn't talk about this.

Boys can get mad.

He's got a good ratio, he's got like 12 gas to one.

The ratio is strong.

As long as you don't exceed the ratio, you're safe.

You're about America.

Your percentage of EVs is about four lights with the country.

I think it'd be fair.

It'd be fair.

But no, it was a new experience and I've learned a couple of things already and I've

also learned that I really, really like the car.

Okay.

And our daughter's going to drive it too, but no, it is a-

So has the handoff happened?

No.

Okay.

No, we're still using it.

Oh, okay.

So when I head out tomorrow, should I bring a rope just in case I see it on the side of

the road?

No.

I think we'll be good.

We'll be good.

No.

We bought a Tesla Model Y.

Okay.

And last weekend-

That's the question.

Why?

Yeah.

That's fair.

You guys can give me all the static you want.

I'll take it.

I'm a big boy.

I didn't say I didn't enjoy driving them.

We went ahead and-

Don't want to pay the interest.

We went up to Rodgers, Minnesota to the Tesla boutique up there, the outlet.

They've got a nice service scenario up there in Rodgers.

Isn't that small?

No.

It's not.

It's near a big little intersection along the interstate, though.

We met a gentleman there named Kyle that had our purchase experience lined up.

We had a 15-minute time slot scheduled to pick up the car.

Red flags there.

And we were done in 12.

All right.

Everything was done ahead of time on the app.

This would drive some people crazy.

It did drive me crazy.

I wanted to ask a lot more questions.

I did ask a lot of questions.

They had a message and a chat function that I was able to work through and I adapted.

And it worked well.

We drove the car home that night.

It's very, very easy.

But it's different because we put in navigation for our home address.

And so it's about a four-hour give or take drive.

And it showed us where we needed to go and how long we needed to stop at each place

to get the correct charge.

We needed to stop in Worthington for nine minutes in order to get home with whatever

baseline charge I wanted to leave in the car when I got to my house.

So I set that I wanted to arrive home with 30% charge because I just wanted to have that

in there to go back in Sioux Falls.

You spend more than nine minutes in the gas station every time you get there.

They got that one lined up in Worthington.

It's a 250kW station, a supercharger station, which is bigger than the ones we have here

in Sioux Falls.

They're 125.

And so we were there for, it was supposed to be eight minutes.

We ended up staying for 18 minutes because we went into high V and bought some things

radiated.

And so the car was done charging by the time we were out of the store.

It was really, really slick.

We've got the full self-driving option for three months.

I'm not going to pay as much as they want for it, but we get to play with it.

What is it?

What's the...

It's a $8,000 premium up front.

Okay.

Oh.

Oh, okay.

Once, twice, 10 times.

How much...

When do you have to pay it?

Once.

You pay it once.

For the life of the car?

I believe that's how it works.

I've got a monthly fee in there, too.

I've got to research that a little bit, but I don't plan on buying that.

Sure.

But I will say that it was amazing.

And I got in trouble already.

Yeah?

Yes.

I was given a strike by Tesla already.

Oh, really?

Yes.

Yeah.

So I think this has to do with your full self-driving bonus offer.

I mean, they're like...

It's like a drug dealer.

They're saying, here, try this.

Try this.

You're really going to like it and you're not going to want to get rid of it.

And so we were up by Rogers and we went into the middle part of the city on 62 down

to the Dynagalleria and we were in that area.

And so we jumped back out onto 169 and when I got on 169, I had enabled full self-driving

before that trip and I hit it and I just watched.

The car took me around the on-ramp.

It merged me into traffic.

It passed slower cars.

I did not touch, literally, or pay attention to what I was driving until we were close

to Mankato, which is about halfway.

It was very impressive how smooth it was.

My wife was following me and she said that she could tell that somebody else was driving

the car.

It was a much better driver but I did get kicked off because if you're not paying attention,

it's watching your eyes.

It's watching your emotions.

If you're not paying attention, it gives you a little navigation screen, flashes blue

and it says you need to touch the wheel and show a steering input basically.

I must have missed that cue.

And so it shut it down and it said that your FSD has been shut down until your next trip.

I thought, okay, no big deal.

Next trip is when I shut the car down and I'll start a new trip and I'll do it again.

So when I got to Worthington to the supercharger, I just kept driving because I had a wingman,

my wife with the radar detector right ahead of me and we made a quick trip to Worthington

after that.

Yeah, she's my wingman and we got down there and when I shut off the car.

As opposed to the time I was your wingman.

Yeah, exactly.

So we shut off the car and I got a warning across the dash, the entertainment screen

or the function screen, whatever you want to call it, the big screen, TV.

And it said, you have received a strike on your, this is paraphrasing, your full

self-driving account, four more strikes and it will be suspended.

Okay.

So they basically, and it's not by driver because I got my wife in there and I got my

daughter in there and they get the same message when they enable full self-driving.

So that account has a strike against it already and if you get five of them, you

lose your trial.

And so I thought that was interesting.

Interesting.

So many things interesting about the car.

My daughter got in it and she had watched a lot of TikTok videos and she was already

showing me everything about how the car worked.

As a young person, college age kid, just intuitive, just no problem.

They figured everything out so fast.

It was incredible.

And I can see where as we generationally change, you know, there's people that are

coming into the car purchase environment, I know one of my kids, maybe two of them,

would have loved that purchase experience.

They don't want to be hassled by somebody and they don't want to be sat down to see

what else you need to buy when you buy the car.

The other one would have wanted to negotiate, haggle, talk.

It was, I'm just trying to keep eyes wide open.

And I could see where the opportunities lie for what's there.

It's funny you say that because when we were at my son's wedding, we rented a car

and it was the same, it was not the same experience, but it was a brand new vehicle we were in.

And my son was a driver on it.

I would say within 10 minutes of us getting the car, he knew every feature on it, every

self-driving feature where the buttons were, everything about that vehicle.

And my daughter, the more she learned about it was like, oh, I wouldn't want to have

to pick that.

I wouldn't.

I don't want to curl through a menu.

I don't want to do any of that.

And my son knew where the submenus were right away.

And it's just a different thing.

And I think my wife, same way, she was like, can you just get in and drive?

That's what I would want to do.

And she was just the kind of like, she didn't care about all the options and my son

knew all the options in a meeting.

What was interesting to me though from my own experiences, and I'm not an amazing

driver by any means.

I have my attention problems and everything else.

But how comfortable I was quickly with the system, with the full self-driving system.

As soon as that took me around a cloverleaf on an on-ramp onto an interstate and merged

me into traffic without a hitch, I was like, huh, I mean now, false sense of security,

whatever.

But I was at comfort quickly with the system, which I didn't expect.

I've read and other people I've talked to that had given me, I had zero range anxiety

because I knew where I was going.

Now, if I had to deviate and something changed, I would probably be really nervous.

And now we're going to take the vehicle.

My son gets married this coming Saturday in Belfou, South Dakota, which is all the

way across the state.

Geographic center of North America.

And is it really?

Well, that's a fact I didn't know.

And so we will have our experience of driving across the state of South Dakota, which you

look at a map, that's a big span.

And there's a network that it shows you right on the screen where we're going to have

to stop and how long.

And then after the wedding, we're taking that same vehicle and driving it to Phoenix,

Arizona from Belfou.

So I'm going to have some experiences driving in this electric vehicle across the

country.

I've made a few videos already.

I'll put some up on our channel.

But it's been interesting and I'm just getting educated and enjoying the experience.

So next week or are you going to be here next week?

I look at my schedule.

Okay.

I don't think so.

Okay.

But we'll have next time.

I don't even know if I'll be in Phoenix next week.

I got to get there first.

True.

866-594-4150.

That's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.

Let's go to Georgia and talk to Tony.

You're on the end of the hood show.

Tony, what can we do for you?

You guys are awesome.

I just, man, I so appreciate you and you, you just, you help people every single day,

including me.

Thank you.

And today, you know, I'm, I'm becoming a pretty regular caller.

Unfortunately, stuff keeps breaking, but I guess it's the life of cars, right?

But the, I'm working on my dad's 2017 F-250 and it has the IMRC, you know,

knock issue.

It's not, it sounds kind of like a knock from the intake manifold.

And so I removed the intake manifold and none of the little doors are broken.

They all seem, you know, I put my hand in there and, you know, took both of the

solenoids off the back.

So I could put a little pressure to just make sure they weren't like stripped or anything,

you know, against my finger.

And they're all seem seemed like they're exactly like they're supposed to be from

the factory.

So I'm trying to figure out what do I do next?

Do I just start replacing all the solenoids?

You got the one that, on the plastic part right behind the throttle body, then you got

your two little vacuum solenoids, one on each side, kind of, you know, close to that.

And then on the back, you got those spring piston things.

That's probably not the word for them.

And then you have, you know, the solenoids that connect at the bottom of that.

What, what would be my next step?

I'm trying to, you know, figure this out.

Russ, do you want to explain what he's talking about for other people that

are listening?

MRC, Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve.

For the old school people out there who aren't familiar with that term, like I wasn't when

they first introduced it, think of a tunnel ram on a car.

You got a big long runner tunnel ram to give you more torque at that higher RPM that that

race engine is going to be running.

But then if you have a regular flat short intake, flat plane intake, you get the

more torque at the, at the lower RPM.

Well, they have an intake manifold runner, longer runner tunnel ram, shorter

runnel, runner not, you know, flat intake and it's a runner control.

It can adjust the length.

It can vary the length of those runners by routing the air a different direction in

your intake.

And they use this on four cylinder cars, six cylinders, eights, everything in

order to give you more torque at the low end and more torque at the high end,

which gives you more efficiency and better fuel economy at the highway.

So if you can have, let's say, 350 pounds of torque at 1,000 RPM and 350 pounds of

torque at 2,000 RPM, you can maintain that.

Whereas normally it would fall off when you get to a higher speed and you'd lose

fuel economy.

So that's how they're getting more fuel economy.

And I would assume just for other people listening to, this is the 6.2 liter

gas motor you're talking about, correct?

Yes.

Correct.

All I remember is post COVID, these intake manifolds were not available and they were

as expensive as an engine.

People are putting them on eBay when they get their hands on one.

It was crazy.

That's all I remember.

But I am too.

They do, yeah, they stick.

So the valves inside the actual doors will stick in them.

They'll break.

They'll stick.

They'll just be so stuck that you can move them with your finger, but when

the engine's running and there's suction on the intake, you can't move them very

well.

So what makes it knock?

A lot of it can be just a solenoid ratcheting or something.

Well, part of that, and I think you get the detonation on the engine because it

thinks it's one direction.

It actually changes the fuel curve of the engine.

If you change the air flow in there, you need a different fuel curve.

And that's causing a problem as well.

So what should we do, Tony, or you've heard, I just want to make sure.

You may have to replace the whole assembly.

We have so many of those that failed.

I got to put the whole thing on there because the doors aren't properly moving

inside.

Otherwise, you've got to diagnose it one part at a time.

You've got to activate the solenoids and see if the vacuum is moving and one piece

at a time.

But like I said, I've seen so many of those that the assembly was bad.

You can pick up an intake.

This is one that I don't know for a fact if our partner over at Dorman Products

has this model for sale.

But they do carry tons of them.

I talked to them yesterday.

Yeah?

What'd they say?

I talked to them yesterday, and they don't make one for this truck.

Not yet.

Right.

Not yet.

Which I told them, this is a super common thing.

It seems like it happens left and right to everyone that has one of these that

I know of.

So is my only option to buy the whole entire thing, the $1,500 from Ford or whatever?

They said to check with some company called like ATP intakes or something?

I'm not familiar with them.

I think that's what they told me.

Yeah, I'm not familiar with that company.

If I find, so we don't know if it's one of the solenoids or if it's part of the

plastic part that's bad, although they've seen great in my hands like it seems free

and everything.

But you're saying you think we should just replace the entire plastic part and

replace all the solenoids and stuff?

That's a lot of work to take that in and out.

You know what I mean?

Right.

For you at home, that's going to be the easiest thing because then you get everything

that's that can possibly fail and it's done in one shot and we see a lot of them

that that's the that's the way because there's more than you know, there are multiple

failures and they're going on or things worn and completely out, some partially out.

What we would do is actually test them.

We would test the parts.

We can go through and test it within an hour, hour and a half and find out

if they're all working.

If they all test fine, we know we've got to replace the whole assembly anyways.

But if we find out that we've just got one or two pieces out, we may just replace those

to save the money.

What we don't want to do and what we want to avoid is having one where we say we charge

a customer 580 bucks because we put a solenoid on and a vacuum pot and then they come

back in a month and say it's doing the same thing again.

So we look at it and think we got it fixed and we go, well, we just replaced one under

warranty.

You should be covered.

Now we lose three, four, five hundred bucks to try to get it going again.

We've warrantied the part and it does it again and then we end up putting an intake

on it and then we're kind of back to square one.

So you want to make sure that you can fix it right and guarantee the repair to

work.

And a lot of times that requires the entire part.

And how do I make sure I'm getting the right part?

You know what I'm saying?

Because I didn't really see a lot of it.

There are some numbers on it, but how do I make sure, you know, because they'll have

them listed on my different websites and stuff, you know, oh, it's the whole full assembly

for 6.2.

Is it just kind of like one part?

Is it going to work?

Yeah.

Or 6.2?

Or is there...

It should be.

As long as you get the year in there.

They're really good when you get online with the VIN decoders where you put

in the VIN of your vehicle, let's say you go to an auto part store.

You give them the VIN of the vehicle or the license number, which they convert to a VIN

often.

And when they do, it'll tell if it fits that vehicle or not.

And what it's doing, it's cross-referencing their aftermarket part number with the factory

OEM part number to make sure it works.

But I believe they're the same on those.

I think there is only one part from the factory for those, which is good for the

aftermarket.

And if they design it the same, they're going to get the same one on all of them.

And so you don't, you know, would it...

What if I ordered all the solenoids, like all the way around all 6 of them or whatever?

If you're going to go that far...

Your thing still could be the plastic part though.

If you're going to go that far, I'd replace the entire unit.

If it's got more than one piece failed on it, because I have seen that happen.

We've done it.

We replace all of them.

Still doesn't work because it's got an internal issue.

The Chrysler's were horrible about that.

So if we have one of those with a code for one of those, it's getting a whole intake.

Because I've just been burned so many times trying to do that or had customers come in

that they said, hey, I had some work done on it and it's still doing it.

Well, you need to replace the whole thing.

And carbon gets in there and jams them up.

You know, that's another reason for cleaning an intake system out.

You know, CRC's got an intake system cleaner kit.

We've used that.

It sprays in through the intake and decarbonizes a lot of that stuff.

But the thing is, you've got to do these preventively if you don't...

If you wait until it's broken, you can clean the carbon off, but you've already created

wear and they're like when pistons wear from the AFM issue and stuff.

Tony, thanks very much for the call.

Good luck.

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Welcome back everybody.

It's time to get back under the hood with our motor medics.

Welcome back to the Under the Hood Show.

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I was going to send a message to Berkeley, to Tim and ask him if they know the first

car.

Tim, if you're listening, we had this conversation last week.

Do you know what the first classic was that you guys ensured?

Just that straight forward.

Is it part of the story?

Yeah.

So Tim, if you're listening, get that to me.

Fair enough.

There you go.

All right.

Now let's go to Texas and talk to Sean.

You're on the Under the Hood Show.

Sean, what can we do for you?

Thanks.

I have a 2015 Toyota Sienna and the AC compressor works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

If I disconnect the battery for a bit, I can get it to where it'll kick on when

I turn the air conditioner on.

The last time I did that, I hooked up a set of gauges to it to see what my pressures were

and on the low end, I had 68 PSI and on the high end, I had 230 PSI.

I don't really know what those mean necessarily, but is my issue with the compressor or is

there something else in the system that I need to check first, just kind of looking

for some direction on how to proceed with that?

Those are both too high.

Did you try to charge this yourself?

Yes.

Did you add refrigerant to it?

No.

Okay.

That's a good step one.

Step two, are the fans running on high when the AC's on?

Well, when the compressor works, the fans are running and they'll work.

Three, is the area in front of the fans in front of the radiator and condenser and

the area between the radiator and condenser completely clean, dirt free, so there's air

flowing through there or have you looked between there to know?

They are clean.

I have rinsed the area off and inspected that area.

Right.

In between the two?

Okay.

Because if it's dirty, it will give you the higher pressure.

So, at this point, if you've got that higher pressure and all of that stuff is clean,

the fans are working, there's air flow, you haven't added anything to it, you

need to get that thing evacuated and recharged to find out what's going on.

It may be that it's got air in there.

The air may get in there when it's very cold and the seal shrink and the refrigerant pressure

goes down because of the refrigerant.

If it's zero outside, the pressure is going to be zero and it'll allow air in.

If it's got air in it, it doesn't condense like your refrigerant does into a liquid.

You can't do it.

You can't get enough pressure to make liquid oxygen.

It would be really high pressures.

So the pressures will be high and it will kick off because you've got, it's seeing the computer

sees that there's a problem with high pressures.

Sometimes you can disconnect that battery, reset it and it'll start over again and then

it'll realize the pressures are too high.

So it's shutting down.

I would have it evacuated and recharged and find out if that cures your issue because

we're obviously, the compressor is working because it's pumping a lot of pressure

on that high side.

Right.

And definitely that would be our next step.

If I had gauges on one and saw them both high like that and I had good flow so the temps

are where they're supposed to be, you know, if the fans don't work or it's dirty, that

high side's going to climb and so is the low side quickly.

So but you've already verified that's working and it's clean.

So you know, the next step is to evacuate and recharge.

It'll be, they'll pull it out, they'll vacuum it down for a while and then they'll

recharge it with refrigerant and see what it does.

So a little bit of part of that story, I had not this issue but an issue where it just

wasn't cooling while it was idling very well.

This has been about, I don't know, two years ago and so I took it to a shop and I had

it evacuated and recharged at their suggestion and it didn't really change anything.

So I mean, and now I'm a couple of years past that and now I'm having this issue.

So I don't know if that means anything to you or if that changes anything or what.

No, I mean it might have had a problem before where it was leaking, might still have that

problem again.

So what did they do to fix the problem where it wasn't cool at idle?

Well they didn't, they just discharged it and recharged it because they saw that there

was an unbalance in the pressures.

They weren't as high as they are now but there was just wasn't balanced.

So that was their suggestion first to try that.

They put some stuff in there to see if they can detect any leaks and they didn't find any

leaks in the system.

They examined everything else and didn't find any issues.

So they basically said, okay well there might be something with the compressor but before

we do anything with that, go ahead and take it home for a while and see what happens.

Did it fix itself or is it just didn't work for you all this time?

No, it never really worked well.

It would work well if you're driving 45 and up but I mean if you were idling

you can tell that it was getting not cold enough.

Has it always done this though?

This where it didn't work at idle or did it develop it while you drove it?

It has always done it.

I mean I've had this car for six years.

It has never worked well at idle and it has done that for a while.

Okay so that's...

The compressor, I mean the compressor is not coming on is different though.

Okay so it was five years old when you bought it?

That's right.

Okay there is a possibility, I've seen these vans.

We've had to recharge some of these at three to four years.

It's a possibility that somebody recharged it or they hit an animal with it or something

and had to put a condenser in it up front or it got damaged during service.

If they added oil to it and I've seen too many texts just say well let's just put

two ounces or three or four ounces of oil in it every time.

If it's got too much oil it's going to cool poorly at idle but it'll work good down

the road.

If everything else is good and how you fix that is by if that you don't know

exactly how much oil is in there so sometimes just evacuating and recharging is going to pull

some of it out but you don't want to pull too much out.

It's kind of a game but if you find that if you evacuated and recharged it this time

and not only does it fix the pressures but it's cooling better at idle that's because

some of that oil was removed during the service.

I wouldn't add any oil to it when they recharge it I wouldn't add anything to it at this

point.

Sean thanks very much for the call good luck I think we all just need that once

in a while don't we?

Just to recharge?

In our life we'll evacuate the whole system and then recharge right I mean just you know

that's what vacation is for your head I kind of do that every morning and then when you

come back from vacation there's always 866-594-4150 let's go to Kansas City and talk to rock

you're on the end of the hood show rock what can we do for you?

Probably age wise this vehicle is probably qualifies at the 2006 but it is a skid steer

so if you want to guess the color we could do that up front.

I don't think it quite qualifies but I'm going white are you thinking it's a bobcat?

I'm going white.

I'm thinking it's yellow it's either it's either yeah it's yellow that's a real safe

red.

Red.

Kabota.

Kabota red.

Which is it?

It's yellow.

It's an ASV.

Well that was not the brand I was thinking of I knew yellow I could hit like 3 or 4 brands.

There's a lot of them yellow.

So my question is obviously this is 2006 it's a diesel when I shut it off it continues to

run for anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds and it's again if it's up throttled it it starts

slowing down but again it doesn't shut off immediately and from what I've you know what

I understand is you know the only way that runs is if it's got fuel going to it and

so I'm thinking that it's got maybe an air leak or something or some somehow it's pulling

the rest of the fuel that's in the line I did replace the fuel shut off and that seemed

to help a little bit but not it still doesn't.

So just curious if if I'm headed down the right path and then how would I find the leak if

that you know it is indeed what it is.

Has it always done this?

Since I've had it yes and the guy before me said it's always done it okay but it I

don't think it's supposed to.

Well that's the so that's the thing is it's a turbo?

Yes.

Okay so on some of the turbos they have a delayed shutdown feature and it's intentional when you

turn the key off it'll lock the controls you can't control the vehicle but that also means

that nothing's moving and it's in pause mode to circulate the oil through the turbo a little

bit so you're not going from I'm ramming a pile of dirt to shut it off and then

cake the oil around the bearings and the turbo so what you need to do you could contact the

service center and ask them if it's supposed to do that and they'll tell you if they say

no second step is to get a voltmeter and hook up to that shut off solenoid on the pump and

when you turn the key off okay watch it if it shuts off immediately and the engine

keeps running the pumps got a problem if it's cause you've already replaced the solenoid

if it has power there okay but but I if if the pump has a problem I mean doesn't the flow

of the fuel go through that solenoid now the solenoid blocking it this the solenoid lets

a valve open and let's fuel flow so when the solenoid closes it shuts the valve off

because solenoid can't hold that much pressure so you're you're you're shutting it off

it's kind of like a transmission solenoid so you if you well and the other thing you

can do is go go to the pump while it's running keep your fingers out of the fan blade and unplug

the solenoid and see if it shuts off if it shuts off immediately then it's the vehicle

controlling that solenoid keeping it running okay if it doesn't shut down immediately the

pump is is bleeding inside and I wouldn't worry about it but if it keeps if it keeps

going what happens if you pull that off and it runs for 20 minutes and then you're in you

know at least it'll shut off you have to go find the fuel line and get some vice grips and shut

that thing down to get it to kill but I I wonder if that one is is designed that way

because I I know I've rented a few that were designed that way yeah I've talked to the

manufacturer and service and they they didn't indicate that because they were telling me

you know some things that you know it's got to be continuing to get fuel continues to run

for a period of time so and it's a 2006 so I don't know if it was that advanced to have

the circuitry oh yeah keep pumping oil yeah so I had a track I was running a couple years ago

that had that in there but it would actually run for a minute you'd shut it down and it

would start beeping at you that you know it had a life you could tell in that case

it was a controlled situation you shut it off and it would go beep beep and it would

say shut down on it yeah it would it would kill he could he have a like a turbo

seal out that's pulling oil and it's using that to run instead of you know actual

injection pump yeah that's possible too but and that can be found by pulling the

intake off to so you got a bunch of oil in your yeah but and you'd be burning

oil too with the engine there's a lot of things to check but I'd start with

I'm plugging this on burn a little bit oh yeah it does burn oil so that's that's

interesting the seal in the turbo and so how would I check that or verify well you

pull off the tube between the turbo outlet and the intake and if it's just

dripping wet with oil that's a lot of oil it should it's gonna have a mist in

there but it's not going to be like running if it's really dripping wet

then that's it'll run that diesel engine for like a gas car when we used to

shut the old ones off in the 70s and stuff they would kind of run on cuz

they were dripping fuel into the intake so that idle stops on him this show

every once in a while still I I'm amazed by you guys that's all that's all I'm

gonna say okay 866-594-41 5 0 that's the number to reach us here at the end

of the hood show let's go to California and talk to Joe you're on the end of

the hood show Joe what can we do for you I got a 1964 Chevrolet Camino with a 327

and a sniper EFI system I'm a little bit out of loss here but you know for my

fix could be the problem is I have erratic air fuel ratio just sitting there

idling cold the it'll go from 12 to 1 to 17 to 1 probably 10 different times in

the same second and it could get a max of 10 to 1 to 20 to 1 so there's a real

big span there the idle air control valve ramps all the way up to a hundred and

you have to use your foot to you know keep it alive until it warms up when it

warms up it'll stay running it'll do rpm but it'll still have the erratic air

fuel I spent I put a new NGK02 sensor in it thinking that could be the

problem it was not I spent three hours on the phone with Holly sent the unit back

to Holly and they gave it a clean bill of health I proceeded to put a new cap

rotor plugs I put a ground from I think it's DEI industries they make a

graded like they're a grounded braided wire loom that you can put over the

wires to help with the interference I put that on there I pulled the intake off

sent it over to a machine shop to check for squareness and it's within one to

two thousand across both services and I ran a compression test which was 170 to

175 across all cylinders motor has like maybe two three hundred miles on it

help good ending so is this is this one of their mass airflow units or is it a

map sensor only I should just be a map it's just they're all in one unit like

kind of like a TBI yeah but they didn't include a mass airflow sensor with it in

the intake air tube just the throttle body with a map sensor built onto the

back okay as a if you have an engine that has a lot of modifications done to it

it's it's gonna have to be tuned specifically for that unless it has a

mass airflow sensor the mass airflow system can sense the amount of air

flowing into the engine no matter what kind of camshaft you have in it and

it'll automatically adjust but when you got a map sensor with the vacuum

running up and down and things it's it can get a little wonky like yours is doing

I have I guess to add a little more history to the engine in the holly unit was

put on I put it on in 2020 when I rebuilt this engine and then long story

short is I had an issue with the transmission I believe it stuck on

high line pressure and it you know tore up the thrust bearing and the

thrust plate had to have that's why the engine had to be rebuilt recently get

the end play in the spec again and it ran fine for years with this camshaft with

this and nothing changed except for a little machine work to fix the crank

shaft so I'm just gonna recap that so it ran wonderfully until you took the

engine out of the vehicle and reinstalled it with the same fuel

injection system is everything the same as it had before everything the same

as it was before the machine wise I had a line honed I had the thrust plate on

the crankshaft prepared and then the block was decked seven thousand but then

made up for that with the head gasket adding thickness to that to get my quench

right you didn't change the cam or the rockers nope same exact one

since 2020 yeah that everything you just described should not have changed

change the single thing unless you've got a wire that's broken in the system

somewhere being pulled you would think taking it off sending it into Holly

bringing it back again would change something again because for them to see

it bad on the car good on the bench bad in the car where they're running on the

bench I haven't been into their studio and looked at their flow bench to see

how they're testing it so I don't know what kind of real-world scenario

they're using that could be different in the car I mean they're pretty good at that

kind of stuff but I do know a lot of these companies have shrank tremendously from

what they used to be we used to have a friend of ours that used to work for

Magnus and supercharges and he said we went from this facility to me remember

that it was started in a garage ended in a garage the tuner yeah the

tuner guy for for his part of the division so he said yeah he says it's a

different type of of work of what what he was doing then what they used to do for

testing so I'm not sure how they test that system that's gonna be that's gonna

be a tough one maybe like the I thought maybe you could have like an internal

vacuum leak oh yeah at the intake but then I thought about and I put I bought the

same exact gas and it's the thicker intake gasket like 60,000 I'll tell you how to

check that angle wouldn't be quite right I can tell you exactly how to check that

fast and if you're if you're not familiar with it you'll go oh that makes

sense pull off the PCV valve from the one valve cover and then remove the

vent valve from the other valve cover and then stick your hand over over

both the holes or tape up one hole so you only have one hole left into that

engine and put your hand over it if there's suction there without a PCV hook to

it you got a leak inside if there's no suction or a little bit of pressure

blown out you're good that's just the blow by and the normal pressure if it

pulls any suction all it's leaking none because you don't have vacuum hook to

it you don't have PCV hook to it that's how we found these dodge you know

the dodge with the 318s in the 360s those were horrible about leaking

underneath and they would burn oil because they would suck air and oil out of

that valley right into the bottom of the intake and you couldn't see it on top

we've seen that with older 350 Chevy's 383s things people would build and they

would pull up in there I'm not the one to answer this question I'm just gonna

throw something out there because I ran into this once a long time ago with a

302 a 351W that we put a 351 we had a 302 fuel injection system on and it was

a pain in the butt because the timing wasn't matching the fuel injection system

is so when that engine went back in did you use the same timing gears and timing

set yeah yeah I I didn't change I'm the only new parts that went in were you

know bearings and rings I just wonder if there's any chance and is it off a

tooth on the timing or something like that and it's just not lining up with

so it did it did run fine initially after the rebuild and it was maybe a

couple months after so it makes me think like maybe that broken wire somewhere

that we're talking about or a vacuum leak that would cause that erratic mess

because yeah I put it in fire it up ran good yeah and then tiny was off it would

have never ran good and a vacuum leak I would start by checking that you know

because a vacuum leak could develop if there's a small leak it could get bigger

kind of like an oil leak on a valve cover gasket well I tell you what though

here's the thing I think that Joe's having a heck of a problem with this

El Camino and it's they're not a very popular car so I think you just need

to move that car to South Dakota mmm and we'll take care of it for you but

we got to guess what I gotta decide what color if I if I want to really take a

shot at it right yeah yeah 64 El Camino is a fun car smaller body that the

three of you maybe the two of you so deep in the weeds on that one yeah we got

to bring people back here Joe was talking about color Joe and Russ were way

I could barely see them from where we are so Berkeley one classics this

vehicle is definitely a killer a Berkeley one classic and I think that

since he's done all this work to it this has got to be gold Chris shoot I was

gonna go gold I'll go one of the other soft colors like a blue it's silver

silver would be my other choice I'll do I'll go any solid color Joe other than

in flames next weekend if you don't get it running right what color is this so

it's a it is blue it's off of a 98 viper that viper oh good color one color

pearl coat that's blue do you know what the original color was early original it

was white with red I'm still not right stay on the line producer dog will get

you get you set up for a hoodie from our friends over Berkeley one classic

celebrating 50 years a collector car coverage in our defense we could not

there's no way we could have gotten the color exact right I mean if you would

have said viper blue that's gonna do it for the hand of the hood show thanks for

joining us until next time you can find us at under the hood show calm don't forget

if you miss an episode you can catch it wherever you get your podcasts and we

you can watch the show on our YouTube channel just like hamburger helper when

you need a helping hand we're here with Russ Evans this is Shannon Orts from

thanking you for tuning into the Nordstrom's under the hood show have a

great day and remember PTLA the opinions heard on this program based on the many

years of experience of Russ and Shannon are offered for entertainment value only

and as a guide to your repair needs no claim to repair or cause is given or

implied always consult with your own certified technician and follow all

safety procedures before attempting any repair to be a part of the show

call 866-594-4150 find out more by visiting under the hood show calm

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