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Shannon Bought A New Tesla and Got A Warning From Tesla
Shannon Bought A New Tesla and Got A Warning From Tesla
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About this episode
Shannon shares his experience of purchasing a Tesla Model Y, detailing the quick and efficient buying process at a Tesla boutique. He discusses the car's features, including the full self-driving capability, and the learning curve that comes with transitioning to an electric vehicle. The conversation touches on the differences in generational approaches to technology, as his daughter quickly adapts to the car's features. Shannon also recounts an incident where he received a warning from Tesla for not paying enough attention while using the self-driving feature, adding a humorous twist to the learning experience.
Topics:
tesla model y
full self-driving
electric vehicles
buying experience
generational differences
Shannon bought a New Tesla! 17 F250 IMRC knock 15 Sienna AC not cold at idle 64 El Camino Sniper EFI problems
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Welcome to the Under the Hood show podcast.
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Thanks for listening to the Under the Hood show podcast, here's the show.
This is Under the Hood.
Welcome to the Under the Hood show, we are glad to have you with us, Russ Evans is here
to answer your automotive questions.
Hey, thanks for joining us Under the Hood.
Shannon Nordstrom is here to do the same.
Welcome hoodies, thanks for tuning in so we can help you tune up.
I'm Chris Carter here to answer your calls at 866-594-4150, 866-594-4150.
What has caught your attention in the automotive world?
There was an event that happened in my family that my wife and I had a discussion and we
determined that when we got married, we did not think this is something that would
ever happen.
Okay.
Did not think it was something that would even exist?
Oh, I think I know where you're going.
Do I?
Do I know where?
Yeah, we bought an electric vehicle.
You bought an electric vehicle?
Yeah.
I don't think we should, we shouldn't talk about this.
Boys can get mad.
He's got a good ratio, he's got like 12 gas to one.
The ratio is strong.
As long as you don't exceed the ratio, you're safe.
You're about America.
Your percentage of EVs is about four lights with the country.
I think it'd be fair.
It'd be fair.
But no, it was a new experience and I've learned a couple of things already and I've
also learned that I really, really like the car.
Okay.
And our daughter's going to drive it too, but no, it is a-
So has the handoff happened?
No.
Okay.
No, we're still using it.
Oh, okay.
So when I head out tomorrow, should I bring a rope just in case I see it on the side of
the road?
No.
I think we'll be good.
We'll be good.
No.
We bought a Tesla Model Y.
Okay.
And last weekend-
That's the question.
Why?
Yeah.
That's fair.
You guys can give me all the static you want.
I'll take it.
I'm a big boy.
I didn't say I didn't enjoy driving them.
We went ahead and-
Don't want to pay the interest.
We went up to Rodgers, Minnesota to the Tesla boutique up there, the outlet.
They've got a nice service scenario up there in Rodgers.
Isn't that small?
No.
It's not.
It's near a big little intersection along the interstate, though.
We met a gentleman there named Kyle that had our purchase experience lined up.
We had a 15-minute time slot scheduled to pick up the car.
Red flags there.
And we were done in 12.
All right.
Everything was done ahead of time on the app.
This would drive some people crazy.
It did drive me crazy.
I wanted to ask a lot more questions.
I did ask a lot of questions.
They had a message and a chat function that I was able to work through and I adapted.
And it worked well.
We drove the car home that night.
It's very, very easy.
But it's different because we put in navigation for our home address.
And so it's about a four-hour give or take drive.
And it showed us where we needed to go and how long we needed to stop at each place
to get the correct charge.
We needed to stop in Worthington for nine minutes in order to get home with whatever
baseline charge I wanted to leave in the car when I got to my house.
So I set that I wanted to arrive home with 30% charge because I just wanted to have that
in there to go back in Sioux Falls.
You spend more than nine minutes in the gas station every time you get there.
They got that one lined up in Worthington.
It's a 250kW station, a supercharger station, which is bigger than the ones we have here
in Sioux Falls.
They're 125.
And so we were there for, it was supposed to be eight minutes.
We ended up staying for 18 minutes because we went into high V and bought some things
radiated.
And so the car was done charging by the time we were out of the store.
It was really, really slick.
We've got the full self-driving option for three months.
I'm not going to pay as much as they want for it, but we get to play with it.
What is it?
What's the...
It's a $8,000 premium up front.
Okay.
Oh.
Oh, okay.
Once, twice, 10 times.
How much...
When do you have to pay it?
Once.
You pay it once.
For the life of the car?
I believe that's how it works.
I've got a monthly fee in there, too.
I've got to research that a little bit, but I don't plan on buying that.
Sure.
But I will say that it was amazing.
And I got in trouble already.
Yeah?
Yes.
I was given a strike by Tesla already.
Oh, really?
Yes.
Yeah.
So I think this has to do with your full self-driving bonus offer.
I mean, they're like...
It's like a drug dealer.
They're saying, here, try this.
Try this.
You're really going to like it and you're not going to want to get rid of it.
And so we were up by Rogers and we went into the middle part of the city on 62 down
to the Dynagalleria and we were in that area.
And so we jumped back out onto 169 and when I got on 169, I had enabled full self-driving
before that trip and I hit it and I just watched.
The car took me around the on-ramp.
It merged me into traffic.
It passed slower cars.
I did not touch, literally, or pay attention to what I was driving until we were close
to Mankato, which is about halfway.
It was very impressive how smooth it was.
My wife was following me and she said that she could tell that somebody else was driving
the car.
It was a much better driver but I did get kicked off because if you're not paying attention,
it's watching your eyes.
It's watching your emotions.
If you're not paying attention, it gives you a little navigation screen, flashes blue
and it says you need to touch the wheel and show a steering input basically.
I must have missed that cue.
And so it shut it down and it said that your FSD has been shut down until your next trip.
I thought, okay, no big deal.
Next trip is when I shut the car down and I'll start a new trip and I'll do it again.
So when I got to Worthington to the supercharger, I just kept driving because I had a wingman,
my wife with the radar detector right ahead of me and we made a quick trip to Worthington
after that.
Yeah, she's my wingman and we got down there and when I shut off the car.
As opposed to the time I was your wingman.
Yeah, exactly.
So we shut off the car and I got a warning across the dash, the entertainment screen
or the function screen, whatever you want to call it, the big screen, TV.
And it said, you have received a strike on your, this is paraphrasing, your full
self-driving account, four more strikes and it will be suspended.
Okay.
So they basically, and it's not by driver because I got my wife in there and I got my
daughter in there and they get the same message when they enable full self-driving.
So that account has a strike against it already and if you get five of them, you
lose your trial.
And so I thought that was interesting.
Interesting.
So many things interesting about the car.
My daughter got in it and she had watched a lot of TikTok videos and she was already
showing me everything about how the car worked.
As a young person, college age kid, just intuitive, just no problem.
They figured everything out so fast.
It was incredible.
And I can see where as we generationally change, you know, there's people that are
coming into the car purchase environment, I know one of my kids, maybe two of them,
would have loved that purchase experience.
They don't want to be hassled by somebody and they don't want to be sat down to see
what else you need to buy when you buy the car.
The other one would have wanted to negotiate, haggle, talk.
It was, I'm just trying to keep eyes wide open.
And I could see where the opportunities lie for what's there.
It's funny you say that because when we were at my son's wedding, we rented a car
and it was the same, it was not the same experience, but it was a brand new vehicle we were in.
And my son was a driver on it.
I would say within 10 minutes of us getting the car, he knew every feature on it, every
self-driving feature where the buttons were, everything about that vehicle.
And my daughter, the more she learned about it was like, oh, I wouldn't want to have
to pick that.
I wouldn't.
I don't want to curl through a menu.
I don't want to do any of that.
And my son knew where the submenus were right away.
And it's just a different thing.
And I think my wife, same way, she was like, can you just get in and drive?
That's what I would want to do.
And she was just the kind of like, she didn't care about all the options and my son
knew all the options in a meeting.
What was interesting to me though from my own experiences, and I'm not an amazing
driver by any means.
I have my attention problems and everything else.
But how comfortable I was quickly with the system, with the full self-driving system.
As soon as that took me around a cloverleaf on an on-ramp onto an interstate and merged
me into traffic without a hitch, I was like, huh, I mean now, false sense of security,
whatever.
But I was at comfort quickly with the system, which I didn't expect.
I've read and other people I've talked to that had given me, I had zero range anxiety
because I knew where I was going.
Now, if I had to deviate and something changed, I would probably be really nervous.
And now we're going to take the vehicle.
My son gets married this coming Saturday in Belfou, South Dakota, which is all the
way across the state.
Geographic center of North America.
And is it really?
Well, that's a fact I didn't know.
And so we will have our experience of driving across the state of South Dakota, which you
look at a map, that's a big span.
And there's a network that it shows you right on the screen where we're going to have
to stop and how long.
And then after the wedding, we're taking that same vehicle and driving it to Phoenix,
Arizona from Belfou.
So I'm going to have some experiences driving in this electric vehicle across the
country.
I've made a few videos already.
I'll put some up on our channel.
But it's been interesting and I'm just getting educated and enjoying the experience.
So next week or are you going to be here next week?
I look at my schedule.
Okay.
I don't think so.
Okay.
But we'll have next time.
I don't even know if I'll be in Phoenix next week.
I got to get there first.
True.
866-594-4150.
That's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.
Let's go to Georgia and talk to Tony.
You're on the end of the hood show.
Tony, what can we do for you?
You guys are awesome.
I just, man, I so appreciate you and you, you just, you help people every single day,
including me.
Thank you.
And today, you know, I'm, I'm becoming a pretty regular caller.
Unfortunately, stuff keeps breaking, but I guess it's the life of cars, right?
But the, I'm working on my dad's 2017 F-250 and it has the IMRC, you know,
knock issue.
It's not, it sounds kind of like a knock from the intake manifold.
And so I removed the intake manifold and none of the little doors are broken.
They all seem, you know, I put my hand in there and, you know, took both of the
solenoids off the back.
So I could put a little pressure to just make sure they weren't like stripped or anything,
you know, against my finger.
And they're all seem seemed like they're exactly like they're supposed to be from
the factory.
So I'm trying to figure out what do I do next?
Do I just start replacing all the solenoids?
You got the one that, on the plastic part right behind the throttle body, then you got
your two little vacuum solenoids, one on each side, kind of, you know, close to that.
And then on the back, you got those spring piston things.
That's probably not the word for them.
And then you have, you know, the solenoids that connect at the bottom of that.
What, what would be my next step?
I'm trying to, you know, figure this out.
Russ, do you want to explain what he's talking about for other people that
are listening?
MRC, Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve.
For the old school people out there who aren't familiar with that term, like I wasn't when
they first introduced it, think of a tunnel ram on a car.
You got a big long runner tunnel ram to give you more torque at that higher RPM that that
race engine is going to be running.
But then if you have a regular flat short intake, flat plane intake, you get the
more torque at the, at the lower RPM.
Well, they have an intake manifold runner, longer runner tunnel ram, shorter
runnel, runner not, you know, flat intake and it's a runner control.
It can adjust the length.
It can vary the length of those runners by routing the air a different direction in
your intake.
And they use this on four cylinder cars, six cylinders, eights, everything in
order to give you more torque at the low end and more torque at the high end,
which gives you more efficiency and better fuel economy at the highway.
So if you can have, let's say, 350 pounds of torque at 1,000 RPM and 350 pounds of
torque at 2,000 RPM, you can maintain that.
Whereas normally it would fall off when you get to a higher speed and you'd lose
fuel economy.
So that's how they're getting more fuel economy.
And I would assume just for other people listening to, this is the 6.2 liter
gas motor you're talking about, correct?
Yes.
Correct.
All I remember is post COVID, these intake manifolds were not available and they were
as expensive as an engine.
People are putting them on eBay when they get their hands on one.
It was crazy.
That's all I remember.
But I am too.
They do, yeah, they stick.
So the valves inside the actual doors will stick in them.
They'll break.
They'll stick.
They'll just be so stuck that you can move them with your finger, but when
the engine's running and there's suction on the intake, you can't move them very
well.
So what makes it knock?
A lot of it can be just a solenoid ratcheting or something.
Well, part of that, and I think you get the detonation on the engine because it
thinks it's one direction.
It actually changes the fuel curve of the engine.
If you change the air flow in there, you need a different fuel curve.
And that's causing a problem as well.
So what should we do, Tony, or you've heard, I just want to make sure.
You may have to replace the whole assembly.
We have so many of those that failed.
I got to put the whole thing on there because the doors aren't properly moving
inside.
Otherwise, you've got to diagnose it one part at a time.
You've got to activate the solenoids and see if the vacuum is moving and one piece
at a time.
But like I said, I've seen so many of those that the assembly was bad.
You can pick up an intake.
This is one that I don't know for a fact if our partner over at Dorman Products
has this model for sale.
But they do carry tons of them.
I talked to them yesterday.
Yeah?
What'd they say?
I talked to them yesterday, and they don't make one for this truck.
Not yet.
Right.
Not yet.
Which I told them, this is a super common thing.
It seems like it happens left and right to everyone that has one of these that
I know of.
So is my only option to buy the whole entire thing, the $1,500 from Ford or whatever?
They said to check with some company called like ATP intakes or something?
I'm not familiar with them.
I think that's what they told me.
Yeah, I'm not familiar with that company.
If I find, so we don't know if it's one of the solenoids or if it's part of the
plastic part that's bad, although they've seen great in my hands like it seems free
and everything.
But you're saying you think we should just replace the entire plastic part and
replace all the solenoids and stuff?
That's a lot of work to take that in and out.
You know what I mean?
Right.
For you at home, that's going to be the easiest thing because then you get everything
that's that can possibly fail and it's done in one shot and we see a lot of them
that that's the that's the way because there's more than you know, there are multiple
failures and they're going on or things worn and completely out, some partially out.
What we would do is actually test them.
We would test the parts.
We can go through and test it within an hour, hour and a half and find out
if they're all working.
If they all test fine, we know we've got to replace the whole assembly anyways.
But if we find out that we've just got one or two pieces out, we may just replace those
to save the money.
What we don't want to do and what we want to avoid is having one where we say we charge
a customer 580 bucks because we put a solenoid on and a vacuum pot and then they come
back in a month and say it's doing the same thing again.
So we look at it and think we got it fixed and we go, well, we just replaced one under
warranty.
You should be covered.
Now we lose three, four, five hundred bucks to try to get it going again.
We've warrantied the part and it does it again and then we end up putting an intake
on it and then we're kind of back to square one.
So you want to make sure that you can fix it right and guarantee the repair to
work.
And a lot of times that requires the entire part.
And how do I make sure I'm getting the right part?
You know what I'm saying?
Because I didn't really see a lot of it.
There are some numbers on it, but how do I make sure, you know, because they'll have
them listed on my different websites and stuff, you know, oh, it's the whole full assembly
for 6.2.
Is it just kind of like one part?
Is it going to work?
Yeah.
Or 6.2?
Or is there...
It should be.
As long as you get the year in there.
They're really good when you get online with the VIN decoders where you put
in the VIN of your vehicle, let's say you go to an auto part store.
You give them the VIN of the vehicle or the license number, which they convert to a VIN
often.
And when they do, it'll tell if it fits that vehicle or not.
And what it's doing, it's cross-referencing their aftermarket part number with the factory
OEM part number to make sure it works.
But I believe they're the same on those.
I think there is only one part from the factory for those, which is good for the
aftermarket.
And if they design it the same, they're going to get the same one on all of them.
And so you don't, you know, would it...
What if I ordered all the solenoids, like all the way around all 6 of them or whatever?
If you're going to go that far...
Your thing still could be the plastic part though.
If you're going to go that far, I'd replace the entire unit.
If it's got more than one piece failed on it, because I have seen that happen.
We've done it.
We replace all of them.
Still doesn't work because it's got an internal issue.
The Chrysler's were horrible about that.
So if we have one of those with a code for one of those, it's getting a whole intake.
Because I've just been burned so many times trying to do that or had customers come in
that they said, hey, I had some work done on it and it's still doing it.
Well, you need to replace the whole thing.
And carbon gets in there and jams them up.
You know, that's another reason for cleaning an intake system out.
You know, CRC's got an intake system cleaner kit.
We've used that.
It sprays in through the intake and decarbonizes a lot of that stuff.
But the thing is, you've got to do these preventively if you don't...
If you wait until it's broken, you can clean the carbon off, but you've already created
wear and they're like when pistons wear from the AFM issue and stuff.
Tony, thanks very much for the call.
Good luck.
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Welcome back everybody.
It's time to get back under the hood with our motor medics.
Welcome back to the Under the Hood Show.
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I was going to send a message to Berkeley, to Tim and ask him if they know the first
car.
Tim, if you're listening, we had this conversation last week.
Do you know what the first classic was that you guys ensured?
Just that straight forward.
Is it part of the story?
Yeah.
So Tim, if you're listening, get that to me.
Fair enough.
There you go.
All right.
Now let's go to Texas and talk to Sean.
You're on the Under the Hood Show.
Sean, what can we do for you?
Thanks.
I have a 2015 Toyota Sienna and the AC compressor works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.
If I disconnect the battery for a bit, I can get it to where it'll kick on when
I turn the air conditioner on.
The last time I did that, I hooked up a set of gauges to it to see what my pressures were
and on the low end, I had 68 PSI and on the high end, I had 230 PSI.
I don't really know what those mean necessarily, but is my issue with the compressor or is
there something else in the system that I need to check first, just kind of looking
for some direction on how to proceed with that?
Those are both too high.
Did you try to charge this yourself?
Yes.
Did you add refrigerant to it?
No.
Okay.
That's a good step one.
Step two, are the fans running on high when the AC's on?
Well, when the compressor works, the fans are running and they'll work.
Three, is the area in front of the fans in front of the radiator and condenser and
the area between the radiator and condenser completely clean, dirt free, so there's air
flowing through there or have you looked between there to know?
They are clean.
I have rinsed the area off and inspected that area.
Right.
In between the two?
Okay.
Because if it's dirty, it will give you the higher pressure.
So, at this point, if you've got that higher pressure and all of that stuff is clean,
the fans are working, there's air flow, you haven't added anything to it, you
need to get that thing evacuated and recharged to find out what's going on.
It may be that it's got air in there.
The air may get in there when it's very cold and the seal shrink and the refrigerant pressure
goes down because of the refrigerant.
If it's zero outside, the pressure is going to be zero and it'll allow air in.
If it's got air in it, it doesn't condense like your refrigerant does into a liquid.
You can't do it.
You can't get enough pressure to make liquid oxygen.
It would be really high pressures.
So the pressures will be high and it will kick off because you've got, it's seeing the computer
sees that there's a problem with high pressures.
Sometimes you can disconnect that battery, reset it and it'll start over again and then
it'll realize the pressures are too high.
So it's shutting down.
I would have it evacuated and recharged and find out if that cures your issue because
we're obviously, the compressor is working because it's pumping a lot of pressure
on that high side.
Right.
And definitely that would be our next step.
If I had gauges on one and saw them both high like that and I had good flow so the temps
are where they're supposed to be, you know, if the fans don't work or it's dirty, that
high side's going to climb and so is the low side quickly.
So but you've already verified that's working and it's clean.
So you know, the next step is to evacuate and recharge.
It'll be, they'll pull it out, they'll vacuum it down for a while and then they'll
recharge it with refrigerant and see what it does.
So a little bit of part of that story, I had not this issue but an issue where it just
wasn't cooling while it was idling very well.
This has been about, I don't know, two years ago and so I took it to a shop and I had
it evacuated and recharged at their suggestion and it didn't really change anything.
So I mean, and now I'm a couple of years past that and now I'm having this issue.
So I don't know if that means anything to you or if that changes anything or what.
No, I mean it might have had a problem before where it was leaking, might still have that
problem again.
So what did they do to fix the problem where it wasn't cool at idle?
Well they didn't, they just discharged it and recharged it because they saw that there
was an unbalance in the pressures.
They weren't as high as they are now but there was just wasn't balanced.
So that was their suggestion first to try that.
They put some stuff in there to see if they can detect any leaks and they didn't find any
leaks in the system.
They examined everything else and didn't find any issues.
So they basically said, okay well there might be something with the compressor but before
we do anything with that, go ahead and take it home for a while and see what happens.
Did it fix itself or is it just didn't work for you all this time?
No, it never really worked well.
It would work well if you're driving 45 and up but I mean if you were idling
you can tell that it was getting not cold enough.
Has it always done this though?
This where it didn't work at idle or did it develop it while you drove it?
It has always done it.
I mean I've had this car for six years.
It has never worked well at idle and it has done that for a while.
Okay so that's...
The compressor, I mean the compressor is not coming on is different though.
Okay so it was five years old when you bought it?
That's right.
Okay there is a possibility, I've seen these vans.
We've had to recharge some of these at three to four years.
It's a possibility that somebody recharged it or they hit an animal with it or something
and had to put a condenser in it up front or it got damaged during service.
If they added oil to it and I've seen too many texts just say well let's just put
two ounces or three or four ounces of oil in it every time.
If it's got too much oil it's going to cool poorly at idle but it'll work good down
the road.
If everything else is good and how you fix that is by if that you don't know
exactly how much oil is in there so sometimes just evacuating and recharging is going to pull
some of it out but you don't want to pull too much out.
It's kind of a game but if you find that if you evacuated and recharged it this time
and not only does it fix the pressures but it's cooling better at idle that's because
some of that oil was removed during the service.
I wouldn't add any oil to it when they recharge it I wouldn't add anything to it at this
point.
Sean thanks very much for the call good luck I think we all just need that once
in a while don't we?
Just to recharge?
In our life we'll evacuate the whole system and then recharge right I mean just you know
that's what vacation is for your head I kind of do that every morning and then when you
come back from vacation there's always 866-594-4150 let's go to Kansas City and talk to rock
you're on the end of the hood show rock what can we do for you?
Probably age wise this vehicle is probably qualifies at the 2006 but it is a skid steer
so if you want to guess the color we could do that up front.
I don't think it quite qualifies but I'm going white are you thinking it's a bobcat?
I'm going white.
I'm thinking it's yellow it's either it's either yeah it's yellow that's a real safe
red.
Red.
Kabota.
Kabota red.
Which is it?
It's yellow.
It's an ASV.
Well that was not the brand I was thinking of I knew yellow I could hit like 3 or 4 brands.
There's a lot of them yellow.
So my question is obviously this is 2006 it's a diesel when I shut it off it continues to
run for anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds and it's again if it's up throttled it it starts
slowing down but again it doesn't shut off immediately and from what I've you know what
I understand is you know the only way that runs is if it's got fuel going to it and
so I'm thinking that it's got maybe an air leak or something or some somehow it's pulling
the rest of the fuel that's in the line I did replace the fuel shut off and that seemed
to help a little bit but not it still doesn't.
So just curious if if I'm headed down the right path and then how would I find the leak if
that you know it is indeed what it is.
Has it always done this?
Since I've had it yes and the guy before me said it's always done it okay but it I
don't think it's supposed to.
Well that's the so that's the thing is it's a turbo?
Yes.
Okay so on some of the turbos they have a delayed shutdown feature and it's intentional when you
turn the key off it'll lock the controls you can't control the vehicle but that also means
that nothing's moving and it's in pause mode to circulate the oil through the turbo a little
bit so you're not going from I'm ramming a pile of dirt to shut it off and then
cake the oil around the bearings and the turbo so what you need to do you could contact the
service center and ask them if it's supposed to do that and they'll tell you if they say
no second step is to get a voltmeter and hook up to that shut off solenoid on the pump and
when you turn the key off okay watch it if it shuts off immediately and the engine
keeps running the pumps got a problem if it's cause you've already replaced the solenoid
if it has power there okay but but I if if the pump has a problem I mean doesn't the flow
of the fuel go through that solenoid now the solenoid blocking it this the solenoid lets
a valve open and let's fuel flow so when the solenoid closes it shuts the valve off
because solenoid can't hold that much pressure so you're you're you're shutting it off
it's kind of like a transmission solenoid so you if you well and the other thing you
can do is go go to the pump while it's running keep your fingers out of the fan blade and unplug
the solenoid and see if it shuts off if it shuts off immediately then it's the vehicle
controlling that solenoid keeping it running okay if it doesn't shut down immediately the
pump is is bleeding inside and I wouldn't worry about it but if it keeps if it keeps
going what happens if you pull that off and it runs for 20 minutes and then you're in you
know at least it'll shut off you have to go find the fuel line and get some vice grips and shut
that thing down to get it to kill but I I wonder if that one is is designed that way
because I I know I've rented a few that were designed that way yeah I've talked to the
manufacturer and service and they they didn't indicate that because they were telling me
you know some things that you know it's got to be continuing to get fuel continues to run
for a period of time so and it's a 2006 so I don't know if it was that advanced to have
the circuitry oh yeah keep pumping oil yeah so I had a track I was running a couple years ago
that had that in there but it would actually run for a minute you'd shut it down and it
would start beeping at you that you know it had a life you could tell in that case
it was a controlled situation you shut it off and it would go beep beep and it would
say shut down on it yeah it would it would kill he could he have a like a turbo
seal out that's pulling oil and it's using that to run instead of you know actual
injection pump yeah that's possible too but and that can be found by pulling the
intake off to so you got a bunch of oil in your yeah but and you'd be burning
oil too with the engine there's a lot of things to check but I'd start with
I'm plugging this on burn a little bit oh yeah it does burn oil so that's that's
interesting the seal in the turbo and so how would I check that or verify well you
pull off the tube between the turbo outlet and the intake and if it's just
dripping wet with oil that's a lot of oil it should it's gonna have a mist in
there but it's not going to be like running if it's really dripping wet
then that's it'll run that diesel engine for like a gas car when we used to
shut the old ones off in the 70s and stuff they would kind of run on cuz
they were dripping fuel into the intake so that idle stops on him this show
every once in a while still I I'm amazed by you guys that's all that's all I'm
gonna say okay 866-594-41 5 0 that's the number to reach us here at the end
of the hood show let's go to California and talk to Joe you're on the end of
the hood show Joe what can we do for you I got a 1964 Chevrolet Camino with a 327
and a sniper EFI system I'm a little bit out of loss here but you know for my
fix could be the problem is I have erratic air fuel ratio just sitting there
idling cold the it'll go from 12 to 1 to 17 to 1 probably 10 different times in
the same second and it could get a max of 10 to 1 to 20 to 1 so there's a real
big span there the idle air control valve ramps all the way up to a hundred and
you have to use your foot to you know keep it alive until it warms up when it
warms up it'll stay running it'll do rpm but it'll still have the erratic air
fuel I spent I put a new NGK02 sensor in it thinking that could be the
problem it was not I spent three hours on the phone with Holly sent the unit back
to Holly and they gave it a clean bill of health I proceeded to put a new cap
rotor plugs I put a ground from I think it's DEI industries they make a
graded like they're a grounded braided wire loom that you can put over the
wires to help with the interference I put that on there I pulled the intake off
sent it over to a machine shop to check for squareness and it's within one to
two thousand across both services and I ran a compression test which was 170 to
175 across all cylinders motor has like maybe two three hundred miles on it
help good ending so is this is this one of their mass airflow units or is it a
map sensor only I should just be a map it's just they're all in one unit like
kind of like a TBI yeah but they didn't include a mass airflow sensor with it in
the intake air tube just the throttle body with a map sensor built onto the
back okay as a if you have an engine that has a lot of modifications done to it
it's it's gonna have to be tuned specifically for that unless it has a
mass airflow sensor the mass airflow system can sense the amount of air
flowing into the engine no matter what kind of camshaft you have in it and
it'll automatically adjust but when you got a map sensor with the vacuum
running up and down and things it's it can get a little wonky like yours is doing
I have I guess to add a little more history to the engine in the holly unit was
put on I put it on in 2020 when I rebuilt this engine and then long story
short is I had an issue with the transmission I believe it stuck on
high line pressure and it you know tore up the thrust bearing and the
thrust plate had to have that's why the engine had to be rebuilt recently get
the end play in the spec again and it ran fine for years with this camshaft with
this and nothing changed except for a little machine work to fix the crank
shaft so I'm just gonna recap that so it ran wonderfully until you took the
engine out of the vehicle and reinstalled it with the same fuel
injection system is everything the same as it had before everything the same
as it was before the machine wise I had a line honed I had the thrust plate on
the crankshaft prepared and then the block was decked seven thousand but then
made up for that with the head gasket adding thickness to that to get my quench
right you didn't change the cam or the rockers nope same exact one
since 2020 yeah that everything you just described should not have changed
change the single thing unless you've got a wire that's broken in the system
somewhere being pulled you would think taking it off sending it into Holly
bringing it back again would change something again because for them to see
it bad on the car good on the bench bad in the car where they're running on the
bench I haven't been into their studio and looked at their flow bench to see
how they're testing it so I don't know what kind of real-world scenario
they're using that could be different in the car I mean they're pretty good at that
kind of stuff but I do know a lot of these companies have shrank tremendously from
what they used to be we used to have a friend of ours that used to work for
Magnus and supercharges and he said we went from this facility to me remember
that it was started in a garage ended in a garage the tuner yeah the
tuner guy for for his part of the division so he said yeah he says it's a
different type of of work of what what he was doing then what they used to do for
testing so I'm not sure how they test that system that's gonna be that's gonna
be a tough one maybe like the I thought maybe you could have like an internal
vacuum leak oh yeah at the intake but then I thought about and I put I bought the
same exact gas and it's the thicker intake gasket like 60,000 I'll tell you how to
check that angle wouldn't be quite right I can tell you exactly how to check that
fast and if you're if you're not familiar with it you'll go oh that makes
sense pull off the PCV valve from the one valve cover and then remove the
vent valve from the other valve cover and then stick your hand over over
both the holes or tape up one hole so you only have one hole left into that
engine and put your hand over it if there's suction there without a PCV hook to
it you got a leak inside if there's no suction or a little bit of pressure
blown out you're good that's just the blow by and the normal pressure if it
pulls any suction all it's leaking none because you don't have vacuum hook to
it you don't have PCV hook to it that's how we found these dodge you know
the dodge with the 318s in the 360s those were horrible about leaking
underneath and they would burn oil because they would suck air and oil out of
that valley right into the bottom of the intake and you couldn't see it on top
we've seen that with older 350 Chevy's 383s things people would build and they
would pull up in there I'm not the one to answer this question I'm just gonna
throw something out there because I ran into this once a long time ago with a
302 a 351W that we put a 351 we had a 302 fuel injection system on and it was
a pain in the butt because the timing wasn't matching the fuel injection system
is so when that engine went back in did you use the same timing gears and timing
set yeah yeah I I didn't change I'm the only new parts that went in were you
know bearings and rings I just wonder if there's any chance and is it off a
tooth on the timing or something like that and it's just not lining up with
so it did it did run fine initially after the rebuild and it was maybe a
couple months after so it makes me think like maybe that broken wire somewhere
that we're talking about or a vacuum leak that would cause that erratic mess
because yeah I put it in fire it up ran good yeah and then tiny was off it would
have never ran good and a vacuum leak I would start by checking that you know
because a vacuum leak could develop if there's a small leak it could get bigger
kind of like an oil leak on a valve cover gasket well I tell you what though
here's the thing I think that Joe's having a heck of a problem with this
El Camino and it's they're not a very popular car so I think you just need
to move that car to South Dakota mmm and we'll take care of it for you but
we got to guess what I gotta decide what color if I if I want to really take a
shot at it right yeah yeah 64 El Camino is a fun car smaller body that the
three of you maybe the two of you so deep in the weeds on that one yeah we got
to bring people back here Joe was talking about color Joe and Russ were way
I could barely see them from where we are so Berkeley one classics this
vehicle is definitely a killer a Berkeley one classic and I think that
since he's done all this work to it this has got to be gold Chris shoot I was
gonna go gold I'll go one of the other soft colors like a blue it's silver
silver would be my other choice I'll do I'll go any solid color Joe other than
in flames next weekend if you don't get it running right what color is this so
it's a it is blue it's off of a 98 viper that viper oh good color one color
pearl coat that's blue do you know what the original color was early original it
was white with red I'm still not right stay on the line producer dog will get
you get you set up for a hoodie from our friends over Berkeley one classic
celebrating 50 years a collector car coverage in our defense we could not
there's no way we could have gotten the color exact right I mean if you would
have said viper blue that's gonna do it for the hand of the hood show thanks for
joining us until next time you can find us at under the hood show calm don't forget
if you miss an episode you can catch it wherever you get your podcasts and we
you can watch the show on our YouTube channel just like hamburger helper when
you need a helping hand we're here with Russ Evans this is Shannon Orts from
thanking you for tuning into the Nordstrom's under the hood show have a
great day and remember PTLA the opinions heard on this program based on the many
years of experience of Russ and Shannon are offered for entertainment value only
and as a guide to your repair needs no claim to repair or cause is given or
implied always consult with your own certified technician and follow all
safety procedures before attempting any repair to be a part of the show
call 866-594-4150 find out more by visiting under the hood show calm
under the hood is produced by Prairie House Productions all content is the
property of Nordstrom's automotive incorporated and may not be used without
our permission copyright Nordstrom's automotive Inc.
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