The Car Show with Dane Donovan - 7/18/2026
About this episode
Heat, breakdowns, and backorders set the tone as the hosts talk about getting cars inspected before back-to-school driving—especially when parts availability “has really not recovered from being able to get parts.” A 2020 Ford Flex exhaust repair turns into a delay over a recall-linked clamp, showing how even “an eleven dollars exhaust clamp” can strand a customer. Listener calls then cover Toyota transmission fluid service (drain-and-fill, not flush), brake vacuum/ABS bleeding, and oil-change discipline after an engine “locked up.”
This episode of the car show is a must-listen for anyone who's ever dealt with the frustration of trying to get parts for their vehicle. Dane shares a personal anecdote about a customer who was stranded on the side of the road due to a faulty exhaust clamp, which was being held back by a manufacturer's recall. This led to a discussion about the current state of the automotive industry and the challenges of getting parts, especially since the pandemic.
Dane talks about how manufacturers are making it harder to get parts, and how this is affecting car owners. He shares his own experience with a 2020 Ford, where he had to wait for a recall to be resolved before getting a replacement part. He emphasizes the importance of being proactive and getting maintenance done on time, especially with the increasing complexity of modern cars.
Dane also answers listener questions, including one from a Toyota owner who's wondering about the best time to change their transmission fluid. He advises against flushing the entire system, but recommends a drain and fill instead, to avoid potential issues. Another listener asks about a brake problem with their Honda Pilot, and the host suggests checking the vacuum line as a possible cause.
This episode is a great reminder to be aware of the challenges facing car owners today and to take proactive steps to maintain our vehicles. If you're experiencing issues with your car, tune in to hear the host's expert advice and insights.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Ford Flex
"And I have a twenty twenty Ford and I'm not picking on Ford. I love Fords. But I'm I was kind of upset with them earlier this week. Twenty twenty Ford, Okay, ... The ford flex of the Flea exhaust flex pipe."
The Ford Flex is a Ford vehicle with a unique shape and a V6 setup. Here, the host is talking about a problem with the exhaust system on a relatively new Flex, showing that some exhaust parts aren’t easy or cheap to replace.
The Ford Flex is a distinctive Ford crossover/wagon with a front-wheel-drive layout and a compact V6 packaging that makes exhaust work more “system-specific” than on simpler cars. In this segment, the host’s Flex develops an exhaust-related failure very early in its life, which highlights how modern exhaust components can be tightly integrated.
exhaust flex pipe
"The ford flex of the Flea exhaust flex pipe. Rusted off. This car's five years old. Okay, ... Flex pipe breaks. It's part of the exhaust manifold, okay, which the converter's built into."
The exhaust flex pipe is a flexible piece in the exhaust that helps the system handle engine movement. If it rusts and breaks, the exhaust can leak and the fix may require replacing more than just a simple tube.
An exhaust flex pipe is a short, accordion-like section in the exhaust system that allows the engine and exhaust to move slightly without cracking rigid pipes. When it rusts through and breaks, exhaust leaks can occur and the repair often becomes more involved if the flex section is integrated with other emissions hardware.
exhaust manifold
"Flex pipe breaks. It's part of the exhaust manifold, okay, which the converter's built into. Not too terribly expensive."
The exhaust manifold is the part that collects exhaust gases from the engine’s cylinders and routes them toward the rest of the exhaust system. In many modern designs, the manifold can be integrated with emissions components, so a failure in one area can require replacing the whole assembly.
catalytic converter
"Flex pipe breaks. It's part of the exhaust manifold, okay, which the converter's built into. Not too terribly expensive."
A catalytic converter is a key emissions part that helps clean up exhaust gases. If it’s built into the manifold on your car, then exhaust problems can force you to replace the whole emissions assembly, not just a small pipe.
A catalytic converter is an emissions-control device that reduces harmful pollutants in exhaust by using chemical reactions on a catalyst surface. When it’s built into the manifold (a common modern packaging choice), replacing a rusted flex section can effectively mean replacing the catalytic converter assembly too.
manifold gasket
"However, you need to replace the manifold gasket, and then there's a clamp that was completely rusted as well. We need to replace that clamp."
A manifold gasket is a heat-resistant seal that keeps exhaust from leaking where the exhaust manifold meets the engine. When you replace exhaust parts, the gasket is usually replaced too so everything seals correctly.
A manifold gasket seals the connection between the exhaust manifold and the engine so exhaust gases don’t leak. If the manifold or flex section is replaced, the gasket typically needs replacement as well to restore a proper seal.
exhaust clamp
"However, you need to replace the manifold gasket, and then there's a clamp that was completely rusted as well. ... they called back and said, hey, listen, we can't sell you this exhaust clamp."
An exhaust clamp holds parts of the exhaust together so they stay aligned and sealed. The host is saying this clamp is designed specifically for that car’s exhaust, so you can’t always grab a generic one from a parts store.
An exhaust clamp is the hardware that secures joints in the exhaust system, helping maintain alignment and sealing at connection points. This segment emphasizes that some clamps are vehicle-specific (not truly universal), so rusted clamps can require ordering the correct part for that exact exhaust setup.
universal
"Okay, it was a special exhaust clamp designed for this car, for this exhaust. That's how you know. It used to be all universal."
Here, “universal” means a part that can fit lots of different cars. The host is saying that exhaust parts used to be more commonly universal, but now many are made for specific vehicles.
In the context of exhaust repair, “universal” refers to parts that fit many different vehicles rather than being designed for one specific make/model and exhaust layout. The host contrasts older “universal” availability with today’s more vehicle-specific exhaust hardware.
recall
"said, Dame, we can't sell you the exhaust clamp. This is under Ah, there's a recall on this engine and this clamp is part of that recall. So Ford won't want to sell it to you."
A recall is when the car maker says, “We found a problem and we need to fix it.” Dealers may have special rules about which parts they can sell, especially if the part is part of the official fix.
A recall is when a manufacturer identifies a safety or compliance problem and issues an official fix that dealers are required to handle. In this story, the exhaust clamp is tied to a recall on the engine, so the part is controlled through the recall process.
parts shortages
"it's unbelievable how difficult it is to get parts anymore. So when you're taking your vehicle to a repair shop and they're like, hey, we can't get the parts, we can't find the parts, believe them when they say that, because I'm telling you, it gets every single day it gets harder and harder to get parts."
A parts shortage means the specific part a shop needs isn’t available when they need it. That can turn a simple repair into a multi-day delay.
A parts shortage is when repair shops can’t source the specific components needed to complete fixes in a timely way. The host describes how this affects everyday repairs—especially when a part is needed immediately rather than after waiting for shipping or alternate sourcing.
transmission fluid
"[814.4s] like there's nothing in the manual about flushing the transmission. [818.4s] So my question is like when what is a good time a mileage. [824.1s] To get it flushed? [885.8s] you are in a little bit of a a teetering point in the sense that you don't well, first and foremost, I would not recommend flushing it, okay."
Transmission fluid is the fluid that keeps an automatic transmission working smoothly. It helps gears shift correctly and protects the transmission from wear.
Transmission fluid is the lubricant and hydraulic working fluid used by an automatic transmission to reduce wear and enable smooth gear changes. Over time it can break down, which is why service intervals and whether to flush vs. drain-and-fill come up.
flushing the transmission
"[814.4s] like there's nothing in the manual about flushing the transmission. [818.4s] So my question is like when what is a good time a mileage. [824.1s] To get it flushed? [885.8s] you are in a little bit of a a teetering point in the sense that you don't well, first and foremost, I would not recommend flushing it, okay."
Flushing the transmission means forcing new fluid through the transmission system to replace a large portion of the old fluid. The host argues against doing this on certain Toyota transmissions because of internal design details (like filtration), which can make flushing higher-risk than other service methods.
transmission filter
"[885.8s] you are in a little bit of a a teetering point in the sense that you don't well, first and foremost, I would not recommend flushing it, okay. Toyotas do not [900.2s] have a filter. They have a screen in the transmission."
Some automatic transmissions have a filter that catches dirt in the fluid. The host says this Toyota setup doesn’t use a typical filter, which is part of why they’re cautious about flushing.
A transmission filter is a component that traps debris in the transmission fluid to help keep the system clean. The host specifically says Toyota transmissions “do not have a filter,” implying they use a different method (a screen) for filtering, which affects how people should think about flushing.
screen in the transmission
"[885.8s] you are in a little bit of a a teetering point in the sense that you don't well, first and foremost, I would not recommend flushing it, okay. Toyotas do not [900.2s] have a filter. They have a screen in the transmission."
Instead of a traditional filter, this transmission uses a screen to catch debris in the fluid. That difference can matter when deciding whether to do a flush.
A screen in the transmission is a filtration surface that traps debris in the fluid, serving a similar purpose to a filter but with a different design. The host contrasts this with a conventional transmission filter, suggesting Toyota’s approach may influence the risks/benefits of flushing.
torque converter
"You know, you're the transmission itself probably holds about you know, between the torque converter, the pan, the lines and everything like that, you probably have about, you know, roughly you know, ten to fourteen quarts of transmission fluid in that in that vehicle, right, so you have ten to fourteen courts of transmission fluid..."
A torque converter is a part in an automatic transmission that uses fluid to connect the engine to the transmission. It helps the car move smoothly from a stop without stalling.
A torque converter is a fluid coupling used in many automatic transmissions to transfer engine power to the transmission. It uses transmission fluid to multiply torque at low speeds and to allow the engine to keep running smoothly when the car is stopped.
transmission clutch
"There's there's dirt, there's debris, there's transmission clutch, you. Know, matter and everything like that."
Transmission clutches are the parts that help an automatic transmission change gears. They work using fluid pressure, so dirty or degraded fluid can make shifting worse.
Transmission clutches are friction elements inside an automatic transmission that engage different gear ratios. They rely on hydraulic pressure and transmission fluid condition to apply smoothly; contamination or debris can contribute to shifting problems.
viscosity
"What I would do because sometimes with transmission fluid, and I've talked about this before on the show, we talk about viscosity, the thickness of the fluid. Right. [976.6s] So new transmission fluids a lot thicker, right than your old fluid because it breaks down it gets thinner, right."
Viscosity just means how thick the fluid is. If the transmission fluid gets thinner or thicker than it should, the transmission may shift less smoothly.
Viscosity is a fluid’s thickness or resistance to flow. In transmissions, viscosity changes as fluid ages (it can break down), and that can affect how well the transmission’s hydraulic system and clutches operate.
transmission draining
"If you wanted to do it, I would do a transmission draining film, so you just drain out what's in the pan, and then you put in new fluid, which roughly is about four courts of transmission fluid. So we're not changing all of it."
Transmission draining means you drain out the fluid that’s sitting in the pan and refill with new fluid. It usually doesn’t replace every drop, which can be gentler on an older transmission.
Transmission draining (as described here) means draining the fluid from the transmission pan rather than performing a full system flush. This typically replaces only a portion of the fluid, reducing the chance of disturbing old debris that may have collected inside.
drain and fill
"Maybe if you got some knee pain... we slowly introduce you know, so maybe change it now just to do a drain and fill and then in thirty thousand miles, do another draining pil... [1158.4s] So you just drop the drop the plug, change out that fluid and top it off."
Drain-and-fill means you drain some of the old transmission fluid and refill it with new fluid. It’s usually safer for older transmissions than trying to force everything out at once.
A drain-and-fill is a transmission service where you remove the drain plug, let out some of the old fluid, then refill with new fluid. It replaces a portion of the fluid rather than forcing out nearly all of it at once, which is gentler on older transmissions.
transmission flush
"it would be too aggressive if you try to if you tried to do a flush, I would not do that, not at a hundred. Now, if you were like, hey, Dan, it has sixty thousand miles on it... [1128.8s] Let's kind of ease into it."
A transmission flush tries to push out almost all the old fluid quickly. On older transmissions, that sudden change can stir up gunk and lead to trouble, so the safer approach is often a drain-and-fill.
A transmission flush is a service that attempts to replace most or all of the transmission fluid using added pressure and/or cleaning agents. On high-mileage, long-neglected transmissions, the sudden change can dislodge debris and cause problems, which is why the host advises against it in that scenario.
sealed transmissions
"most of your toyotas have a drain in a fill plug. Some cars are have sealed transmissions, [1152.6s] and it's a nightmare to do a transmission drain in fill."
Some transmissions are made so you can’t easily drain and refill the fluid like you can on others. That can make transmission fluid changes harder to do correctly.
A sealed transmission is one that’s designed without an easy, serviceable drain-and-fill setup, often lacking a conventional drain plug. That makes fluid service more difficult and can require special procedures or tools.
Toyota fluid
"All right, thank you, I appreciate Hey, make sure you use I would highly just do the Toyota fluid. [1235.0s] There's there's there's you know. [1236.5s] I'm not you know, knocking on anybody else, but I would just at four courts just by the the recommended Toyota fluid, you know, Just yes, some other manufacturers might"
They’re saying to use the transmission fluid that matches what Toyota specifies for your car. Using the wrong kind of fluid can make the transmission shift poorly or wear faster.
“Toyota fluid” here means using the specific transmission fluid type/spec that Toyota recommends for that vehicle. Different manufacturers use different additive packages and friction characteristics, so the “wrong” fluid can affect shifting quality and long-term durability.
owners manual
"So you should always go back [1306.0s] to your owner's manual and find out when the recommendation is, because again, every year, make them all And I'm telling you what, I could have a twenty twelve Jetta and it's recommended every sixty and then two thousand thirteen Jeda and it's never."
The owner’s manual tells you what the manufacturer wants you to do and when. For things like transmission fluid, it’s the best place to check the exact schedule for your specific car.
The owner’s manual is the manufacturer’s official guide for maintenance intervals and fluid specifications. For transmission service, it’s the source of truth because recommendations can vary by model year and drivetrain.
Volkswagen Jetta
"So you should always go back [1306.0s] to your owner's manual and find out when the recommendation is, because again, every year, make them all And I'm telling you what, I could have a twenty twelve Jetta and it's recommended every sixty and then two thousand thirteen Jeda and it's never."
A Volkswagen Jetta is a common compact car. They’re using the 2012 Jetta as an example of how the recommended transmission-fluid change interval can be different from later years.
The Volkswagen Jetta is a compact sedan that can have different transmission-fluid service intervals depending on the exact year and powertrain. In this segment, the host uses a 2012 Jetta example to show how schedules can change between model years.
twenty eleven Honda Pilot
"Not a problem. How can My granddaughter has a twenty eleven Honda Pilot with one hundred and forty four thousand miles. [1526.8s] She was complaining that her brakes weren't that great."
A Honda Pilot is a family SUV. Here, the caller is talking about a 2011 Pilot and how the brakes feel wrong—like the pedal goes soft.
The Honda Pilot is a mid-size SUV, and the 2011 model is known for being a practical family hauler. In this segment, the host uses a 2011 Honda Pilot as the specific case study for a brake feel problem.
brakes
"[1526.8s] She was complaining that her brakes weren't that great. So [1532.0s] I took up for a test drive, and she was right."
“Brakes” are what slow the car down and help it stop. Here, they’re talking about how the brake pedal feels and how well the brakes work.
In everyday driving, “brakes” refers to the system that slows and stops the car by converting motion into heat at the friction surfaces. In this segment, the discussion is specifically about brake pedal feel and stopping power, not just general braking.
brake pedal
"[1532.0s] I took up for a test drive, and she was right. [1534.1s] The pedal was muchie and soft and was going to the floor."
The brake pedal is the driver’s input lever for the hydraulic brake system. A “soft” or “spongy” brake pedal often points to air in the brake lines, a hydraulic leak, or a problem with how pressure is being built and held.
pads
"I pulled all four wheels, checked the pads. [1541.8s] The pads are bailly new, maybe twenty five hundred to three thousand miles on all of them."
Brake pads are the parts that squeeze against the rotors to slow the car down. New pads should help, but they don’t fix problems if the brake fluid system has air or other issues.
Brake pads are the friction material clamped by the caliper to create stopping force at the rotor. Even if pads are new, the pedal can still feel wrong if the hydraulic system has air or if the caliper/slide hardware isn’t functioning properly.
caliber slides
"[1541.8s] The pads are bailly new, maybe twenty five hundred to three thousand miles on all of them. The caliber slides [1549.9s] are free."
The caliper slides are the moving parts that let the brake caliper slide smoothly. If they’re stuck, the brakes can feel bad or not work evenly even with new pads.
The caliper slides (often called caliper guide pins) let the brake caliper move smoothly as the pads wear. If the slides are stuck or corroded, the caliper may not clamp evenly, which can cause poor braking feel, uneven wear, or dragging.
bled the system
"[1550.8s] Okay, that's good. [1552.2s] So I bled the system. Yeah it didn't help at all."
Bleeding the brakes means getting air out of the brake fluid lines. Air can make the pedal feel soft; if bleeding doesn’t help, something else in the brake system may be wrong.
Bleeding the brake system removes trapped air from the hydraulic lines so the pedal can build consistent pressure. If bleeding doesn’t improve a soft pedal, it can indicate a persistent leak, a failing master cylinder, or another hydraulic issue.
bleeding
"I bench bled it. I installed it, led the system again. [1567.5s] For pedal is firm. The break's a good bush. If ... [1641.8s] I'm doing it the old fashioned way."
Bleeding the brakes means pushing out trapped air from the brake lines. Air makes the pedal feel soft or like it slowly goes down instead of staying firm.
Bleeding the brakes removes trapped air from the brake hydraulic system. Air compresses, which can cause a pedal that feels spongy or slowly sinks, especially after component replacement.
caliper
"So right now I get the car up on jack stands and the wheels are removed. I looked at all [1590.9s] the rubbers. They don't look distorted. They're not cracked. I mean, yeah, [1596.1s] they're from twenty eleven, but they don't look bad."
Calipers are the parts that squeeze the brake pads against the rotors to slow the car down. If the brake system has air or leaks, the calipers may not get consistent pressure.
Calipers are the brake components that clamp brake pads against the rotor to create stopping force. Brake line and fluid issues can affect caliper pressure, and air in the system can show up as poor pedal feel.
brake vacuum issue
"Okay, so most likely that's a vacu that's going to be a break vacuum issue. That's going to be a vacuum issue. Okay, where either the break it's not of lines."
This means the vacuum that helps your brakes work isn’t right. If the vacuum assist isn’t steady, the brake pedal can feel firm at first and then slowly drop.
A brake vacuum issue means the vacuum assist that powers the brake booster isn’t working correctly. When vacuum assist is inconsistent, the pedal can start firm and then slowly sink as the system loses assist or air/vacuum leaks affect pressure.
ABS pump
"Okay, all right, okay. [1634.5s] So what I don't I'm much and I don't have a scan it to activate the ABS pump as I'm bleeding. [1641.8s] I'm doing it the old fashioned way."
ABS is the system that prevents wheels from locking up. The ABS pump is the part that controls brake pressure for that system, and some cars need it turned on during brake bleeding to get all the air out.
The ABS pump is part of the anti-lock braking system that rapidly modulates brake pressure during hard braking to prevent wheel lockup. During bleeding, some vehicles require activating the ABS pump so air can be purged from the ABS hydraulic circuit.
master cylinder
"So either so the the couple of things. [1657.9s] One, the master cylinder itself could have maybe leaked break fluid into the booster maybe couset uh, was there ever an issue where she was adding brake fluid or anything like."
The master cylinder is the part that creates the brake fluid pressure when you press the brake pedal. If it’s leaking, the brakes can feel like the pedal slowly drops or doesn’t stay firm.
The master cylinder is the hydraulic pump that turns your brake pedal force into pressurized brake fluid. If it leaks internally, it can cause symptoms like a pedal that slowly sinks or changes behavior during bleeding.
brake fluid
"One, the master cylinder itself could have maybe leaked break fluid into the booster maybe couset uh, was there ever an issue where she was adding brake fluid or anything like."
Brake fluid is the fluid that carries the braking force through the brake lines. If it leaks or ends up where it shouldn’t, the brakes can feel wrong and the pedal may not stay firm.
Brake fluid is the incompressible hydraulic fluid that transfers force from the master cylinder to the calipers. If brake fluid leaks or gets into the wrong place (like the booster area), it can cause abnormal pedal feel and bleeding difficulties.
brake booster
"Okay, all right, okay, So but again we're dealing with a vacuum issue. It's not anything with the brake lines or anything like that, or the abs itself. That's either a booster issue or the the the vacuum line that's running from the booster to the engine."
The brake booster is what helps your brakes respond with less effort. If it’s bad, the brake pedal can feel wrong—sometimes hard, sometimes slowly sinking.
The brake booster is the vacuum-assisted unit that amplifies force from your foot to the master cylinder. When it fails, the brake pedal often feels hard or slowly sinks because the system can’t build/hold the needed vacuum assist.
vacuum line
"That's either a booster issue or the the the vacuum line that's running from the booster to the engine. Okay, okay, what I would recommend is replacing that vacuum line going from the engine, which is typically in the intake to the booster."
A vacuum line is a hose that sends suction from the engine to the brake booster. That suction helps the brakes work with less pedal effort.
A vacuum line is the hose that carries engine vacuum to the brake booster. It helps the booster create extra braking force so the pedal feels normal and braking effort is reduced.
check valve
"Now it is so most of these vehicles will have a check valve, a little valveh Okay, so a lot of times these valves will will stick or they'll stick open right, so you have good pressure and then holding it and it goes down."
A check valve is a one-way valve in the vacuum hose. It helps keep suction going to the brake booster instead of letting it leak back.
A check valve is a one-way valve that lets vacuum flow to the booster but prevents it from bleeding back. If the check valve sticks open or fails, the booster may not hold vacuum properly, causing brake pedal issues.
ABS module
"it's gonna activate the ABS and it's gonna get that possible air that's trapped in the ABS module. It's gonna pump that out."
The ABS module is the part of the car that controls ABS braking. If air gets trapped inside it, the brakes can feel wrong, and you may need to clear that air out.
The ABS module is the hydraulic control unit for the anti-lock braking system. It contains valves and a pump that manage brake pressure during ABS events, and trapped air in that module can cause poor brake feel until it’s purged.
factory extended warranty
"bought a brand new used certified Subaru and with a factory extended warranty and part of the deals he got three old change for three years."
An extended warranty is extra insurance for repairs after the normal warranty ends. Here, it’s mentioned because the car still ended up with a major engine problem.
A factory extended warranty is coverage sold by the automaker (or its authorized program) that extends beyond the standard warranty period. In this story, it matters because the car was still serviced incorrectly despite being under warranty coverage.
used certified Subaru
"Guy work with bought a brand new used certified Subaru and with a factory extended warranty and part of the deals he got three old change for three years."
A certified pre-owned car is a used car that gets inspected and comes with extra warranty coverage. The story uses this to show that even “certified” cars can fail if oil changes are ignored.
“Certified pre-owned” (CPO) is a program where a used car is inspected and then backed by additional warranty coverage. The speaker uses it to set expectations that the car would be properly maintained and protected.
check your oil
"I told him check your oil and things smoking like freight train and he didn't check it. And he went in and had told him to change oil because he'd always changed before."
Checking your oil is just making sure the engine has enough oil and that it isn’t in bad shape. The story says they didn’t check it while the car was smoking, and that led to the engine failing.
Checking your oil means verifying oil level and condition between scheduled service intervals. In the segment, the driver ignored the advice while the engine was smoking, and the engine ultimately locked up.
engine locked up
"The motor locked up. Fifty two thousand, no fit. He drove the car fifty two hundred miles. Oh wow, fifty two hundred miles. They would not change the oil..."
“Locked up” means the engine basically seized and stopped moving. It’s usually a sign of severe internal damage, and here it happened after oil changes were delayed.
When an engine “locks up,” internal components seize so the engine can’t rotate normally. In this story, neglecting oil changes led to catastrophic lubrication failure, and the outcome was an engine replacement.
check engine light
"The other day he goes, man, I just got my truck. My check engine lights on and it's an F one fifty."
The check engine light is a warning that something isn’t right with the engine or emissions system. You usually need to plug in a scanner to find the exact cause.
The check engine light is the dashboard warning that the engine control system has detected a fault. It doesn’t always mean immediate catastrophic failure, but it does mean the car should be scanned for diagnostic trouble codes.
cam crank correlation code
"And it was a CAMP. It was a cam crank correlation code or whatever timing chain issue. And I'm like, check your oil..."
Cars have sensors that watch where the engine’s camshaft and crankshaft are. If the readings don’t line up, the car logs a code to warn you something about timing or sensors may be wrong.
A cam-crank correlation code is a diagnostic trouble code triggered when the engine control unit (ECU) doesn’t see the camshaft and crankshaft signals matching what it expects. It often points to timing problems, sensor issues, or chain/gear wear that affects valve timing.
timing chain issue
"And it was a CAMP. It was a cam crank correlation code or whatever timing chain issue. And I'm like, check your oil..."
Many modern engines use a chain to keep the engine’s moving parts in sync. If that chain is worn or stretched, the engine can get out of timing and trigger warning codes.
A timing chain issue means the engine’s timing chain (which synchronizes the crankshaft and camshaft) is out of spec or malfunctioning. When it stretches, slips, or fails, the engine can throw correlation codes and run poorly or even cause major damage.
oil change
"This car, he not due for an oal chain. He changes it every three thousand He's not due for an oil change yet. And I check it."
An oil change is when you replace the engine oil. It helps protect the engine, and the oil level still matters even if the car says you’re not due yet.
An oil change is the scheduled replacement of engine oil to keep lubrication and contaminants under control. The speaker is contrasting an oil-change interval with a timing-chain-related warning, emphasizing that oil level still needs checking regardless of the mileage-based schedule.
burning it
"Unfortunately, all these cars nowadays, they're burning it. I mean, I've got a you know, my wife's car burns oil."
When someone says the engine is “burning oil,” it means the oil level is going down faster than expected. That can happen if oil gets into the combustion process, and it’s important to keep the oil topped up.
“Burning it” refers to engine oil consumption—oil being used up as part of combustion or leaking into places where it gets burned. The key symptom is the oil level dropping between oil changes, which can lead to low-oil damage if ignored.
two thousand and five Jeep Wrangler
"Hi, Dane, thanks for taking my call. Sure, Hey, I've got a two thousand and five Jeep Wrangler and at one hundred and twenty three thousand miles, I took the advice of a friend to change my oil to synthetic, and since that time, I've developed oil leaks in the engine."
This is a 2005 Jeep Wrangler. The caller says it started leaking engine oil after switching to synthetic oil, so they’re trying to figure out exactly where the leak is coming from on that Jeep.
A 2005 Jeep Wrangler is a classic off-road SUV known for its simple, rugged design and straightforward powertrain layout. In this call, the owner reports developing engine oil leaks after switching to synthetic oil, which makes the Wrangler’s specific oil system layout relevant to diagnosing where the leak is coming from.
synthetic
"I've got a two thousand and five Jeep Wrangler and at one hundred and twenty three thousand miles, I took the advice of a friend to change my oil to synthetic, and since that time, I've developed oil leaks in the engine."
Synthetic oil is a higher-tech type of engine oil. It’s designed to protect your engine better, and here the caller thinks it might have caused leaks—while the host suggests the leak is probably from a part, not the oil type.
Synthetic oil is a refined engine lubricant formulated to flow well across a wide temperature range and resist breakdown longer than conventional oil. In this segment, the caller suspects the synthetic oil caused new oil leaks, but the host is steering the discussion toward a mechanical leak source instead.
oil leaks
"and since that time, I've developed oil leaks in the engine. Have you ever heard anything about it like that?"
Oil leaks mean engine oil is escaping from somewhere it shouldn’t. The important part is where it’s leaking from, because different areas suggest different causes.
Oil leaks are unintended escapes of engine oil from seals, gaskets, or housings. In a diagnosis like this, the key is the location—here, the caller says it seems to be between the engine and transmission, which can point to specific leak paths.
engine and transmission
"I'm probably right between the engine and transmission."
The space between the engine and the transmission is a spot where leaks can show up. If oil is pooling there, it helps the mechanic figure out whether it’s coming from the engine or from the transmission area.
The engine-to-transmission area is a common region for oil to show up because multiple components share seals and fluid passages near the bellhousing. When a leak appears “between” these units, it can help narrow whether the source is engine-side (like the oil filter housing) or transmission-side (like seals).
oil cooler
"So there is a what's called the oil filter housing. So there's an oil cooler and the oil filter housing there."
An oil cooler is a component that helps keep engine oil from getting too hot. In this case, it’s mentioned right next to the oil filter housing, so a leak in that area could be coming from the cooler or its connections.
An oil cooler is a heat-exchanger that helps remove excess heat from engine oil to keep it within a safer operating temperature range. Because it’s often packaged near the oil filter housing, leaks can be mistaken for “oil filter” leaks unless the source is pinpointed.
bell housing
" [2389.0s] puddles up in the valley of the engine and then it then it then runs off the back of the engine and down the transmission and the bell housing, and it's gonna, it's gonna, it's gonna right there where like you said, with the engine and transmission meat."
The bell housing is the part between the engine and the transmission. If oil gets into that area, it usually means there’s a leak that needs attention.
The bell housing is the transmission’s front casing that connects to the engine and surrounds the area between the engine and gearbox. Oil leaks that reach the bell housing can be a sign of a serious leak path and may require transmission-area work to fully resolve.
oil filter housing
" [2404.1s] oil filter housing again, which comes with the cooler, that is leaking again. [2410.6s] Failure rate they all do it."
The oil filter housing is the container that holds the oil filter. If it leaks, oil can drip and run down the engine, making a mess and potentially causing problems if you don’t fix it.
The oil filter housing is the part that holds the engine’s oil filter and often integrates oil passages for routing oil through the filter. If it leaks, oil can run down the engine and contaminate nearby components, which can create mess and potential damage if ignored.
aftermarket one
" [2428.2s] Do not buy [2428.2s] an aftermarket one. I've I'm a victim of it myself. [2433.4s] We've we've tried in the past to try to save customers money and put an aftermarket one in it, and some of them, some of them."
An aftermarket part is a replacement made by a company other than the car’s original manufacturer. The host says that in this case, aftermarket versions can cause problems because they may not include everything needed for the repair to work correctly.
An aftermarket part is a non-OEM replacement component made by a third party. The speaker is warning that an aftermarket oil filter housing (or the housing assembly) may not include the correct sensors or fitment details, leading to incomplete repairs or cars not leaving the shop.
dealer
" [2445.7s] It comes with all all the sensors and everything that you need. But get one from the dealer. [2451.9s] Whoever does it, either you take it to the dealer or your friend or whatever."
In this context, “dealer” means buying the replacement part through the vehicle’s brand dealership (OEM supply chain). The speaker’s recommendation is that the dealer part includes the required sensors and correct assembly, which reduces the chance of a labor-intensive job needing rework.
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