Ron Ananian, The Car Doctor - July 18, 2026 - Hour 1 - The Risk Is In The Repair
About this episode
A Duramax glow-plug job turns into a lesson in risk management: a failed plug on cylinder three (P0673) can escalate if carbon buildup causes the tip to break, so the Car Doctor explains careful extraction, cleaning, and avoiding hydrostatic lock. The discussion broadens to how shops should explain urgency with a 1-to-10 risk scale, why second opinions matter, and how recalls, dealer pressure, and even electronics can change repair decisions.
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Duramax diesel
"This week Out of twenty sixteen Chevy Silverado with the sixty six Duramax diesel in the shop almost three hundred thousand miles and the complaint was a check engine light."
Duramax diesel is a GM diesel engine used in some trucks. Diesel engines often use glow plugs to help the engine start and run smoothly, especially in colder conditions.
Duramax diesel refers to General Motors’ Duramax line of diesel engines used in trucks like the Chevrolet Silverado. Diesel engines use glow plugs to help start and stabilize combustion, especially when cold.
Chevy Silverado
"This week Out of twenty sixteen Chevy Silverado with the sixty six Duramax diesel in the shop almost three hundred thousand miles and the complaint was a check engine light."
A Chevrolet Silverado is a big pickup truck that many people use for work, so it can get a lot of miles. Here, the truck’s check-engine light leads to a real repair job, not just a quick reset.
The Chevrolet Silverado is a full-size pickup known for being used as a work truck, so it racks up high mileage. In this story, a Silverado with a diesel engine is coming in for a check engine light, which turns into a deeper diagnostic and repair risk discussion.
check engine light
"almost three hundred thousand miles and the complaint was a check engine light. Well, the customer thought the check engine light was transfer case related"
The check engine light is a warning that the car’s computer found a problem. It doesn’t always mean one specific part—there can be many possible causes.
The check engine light is the dashboard warning that the vehicle’s engine control system has detected a fault. It’s triggered by stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and can point to many different systems, not just the engine.
transfer case
"Well, the customer thought the check engine light was transfer case related because they were using one of their phone scanners."
The transfer case is part of a 4WD system that sends power to the front and rear wheels. In this story, the customer suspected it, but the fault codes ultimately pointed to another issue.
The transfer case is the gearbox that routes power from the transmission to the front and rear axles in four-wheel-drive vehicles. Because it has its own sensors and control logic, it can sometimes be blamed for driveline symptoms—but the diagnostic codes may point elsewhere.
phone scanners
"And you guys know what I think about phone scanners, how useless they are. And it didn't give them all the information."
Phone scanners are small code readers you plug in and use with an app. They may not show everything the car’s computer knows, so you can miss important clues.
Phone scanners are consumer OBD-II diagnostic tools that connect to a smartphone to read trouble codes. They can be limited in what data they show, which can lead to missing fault codes and incomplete diagnosis.
fault code
"it missed the other nineteen fault codes that were in the system over the past couple of years as they've worked on it and cleared it and done this and done that."
A fault code is like the car’s way of writing down what it thinks is wrong. The code helps a mechanic figure out where to look instead of guessing.
A fault code (diagnostic trouble code) is a specific identifier stored by the vehicle’s computer when it detects a problem. Reading the correct codes—and understanding which ones are current vs. historical—is central to accurate diagnostics.
glow plug
"P. Zero six seventy three globe plug failed, open circuit. Fault code came back as it had been in the original print out... And you've got a bad glow plug on number three, number three cylinder."
A glow plug is a diesel engine part that heats up to help the engine start. If one fails, the car may warn you and the engine may run poorly or be harder to start.
A glow plug is an electrically heated component used on diesel engines to preheat the combustion chamber for easier starting and smoother running. If a glow plug fails, the engine can set related fault codes and trigger a check engine light.
open circuit
"P. Zero six seventy three globe plug failed, open circuit."
An open circuit means the electrical connection is broken somewhere, so electricity can’t pass through. With glow plugs, that usually means the plug or its wiring/connector has a problem.
An open circuit means there’s an electrical break somewhere in the wiring or component path, so current can’t flow. In glow-plug diagnostics, an open circuit often points to a failed plug, damaged wiring, or a poor connection.
number three cylinder
"And you've got a bad glow plug on number three, number three cylinder."
Number three cylinder is just the specific cylinder in the engine that has the problem. It helps the mechanic know which glow plug location to check.
Number three cylinder is the specific engine cylinder being referenced for the fault. Cylinder numbering matters because it tells you exactly which glow plug (and related wiring) to inspect and replace.
heat cycles
"a loom cylinder head that had seen almost three hundred thousand miles of heat cycles, corrosion, potential carbon build up."
Heat cycles are the engine parts getting hot and then cooling down again and again. Over time, that can cause corrosion and buildup that makes repairs harder.
Heat cycles are repeated rounds of heating and cooling that an engine component experiences over time. That thermal cycling can contribute to corrosion, loosening, and carbon buildup—making repairs like glow-plug removal more risky.
carbon buildup
"all right, is there carbon build up on the tip? Will it? Will it stay? Will it break off?"
Carbon build up is a hard, burned-on residue that can form on engine parts. On a glow plug, it can make the plug stick and be harder to remove without breaking.
Carbon build up on a glow plug tip can increase the chance it won’t come out cleanly. It can also contribute to overheating or sticking, making extraction harder and raising the risk of breaking the plug.
wheelwell liner
"So I [252.2s] had to take out the wheelwell liner. I had to [254.7s] work over the top of this big, you know, huge tire."
The wheelwell liner is the plastic cover inside the wheel area. Sometimes you have to remove it to reach parts underneath or behind it.
A wheelwell liner (also called a fender liner or splash shield) is the plastic or composite cover inside the wheel arch. Removing it can be necessary to access fasteners or components near the engine bay area on some trucks.
penetratet
"The globe plug finally started to move. I [268.3s] soaked it with a little penetratet and it just and I just thought, oh, this is great, it's coming out."
Penetrant is a special lubricant that seeps into tight, stuck areas. It helps loosen parts so they come out without snapping.
This refers to a penetrating lubricant/penetrant used to help free stuck fasteners or parts. For glow plugs that are seized, soaking with penetrant can reduce friction and improve the odds of extraction without breaking the plug.
cylinder head
"It took the better part of fifty minutes to get that globe plug where the threads were finally all the way exposed out of the cylinder head... So imagine a pencil... Right in the middle of that pencil are the threads."
The cylinder head is the top part of the engine that closes off each cylinder. It’s where combustion happens, and it also holds parts like the glow plug in its threaded opening.
The cylinder head is the engine’s upper casting that seals the top of each cylinder. It contains critical components like the combustion chamber surfaces and, on many engines, the threaded bores where glow plugs are installed.
threads
"It took the better part of fifty minutes to get that globe plug where the threads were finally all the way exposed out of the cylinder head... the threads on a glow plug... are about in the middle of it."
Here, “threads” means the screw ridges on the glow plug. They have to line up with the matching screw hole in the engine head, and if they’re stuck, the plug can be hard to remove safely.
In this context, “threads” refers to the screw-like helical ridges on the glow plug that engage with the matching threaded bore in the cylinder head. If the plug is stuck, the threads may be partially exposed or bound up, making removal risky.
high compression
"I thought about starting it up, because I said, well, diesels do have high compression. I bet I could blow it out of the cylinder head..."
Diesels compress air a lot, which makes it hot enough to ignite fuel. The host considered using that force to move the glow plug, but didn’t want to risk breaking something.
Diesel engines rely on high compression to raise air temperature enough to ignite fuel without spark plugs. The host mentions this to explain why they considered starting the engine to “blow” the glow plug out, but avoided it due to the risk of damage.
throttle body cleaner
"I said, what do I have that’s going to break up carbon? How about a throttle body cleaner? Right, grab some CRC throttle body cleaner that breaks up carbon."
Throttle body cleaner is a solvent-based spray designed to dissolve carbon and gum deposits on intake/throttle components. In this story, the mechanic uses it as a carbon-breaker to help free a glow plug that’s stuck in the cylinder head.
diesel cylinder
"I've got this cleaner that's into a cylinder on a diesel. In nineteen eighty three, I went to the first GM diesel classes being offered here in New Jersey..."
In a diesel engine, the cylinder is where fuel gets injected and burned. Diesel engines don’t use spark plugs—the heat from compression helps ignite the fuel.
A diesel cylinder is the combustion chamber where diesel fuel is injected and ignites under compression. Unlike spark-ignition engines, diesel combustion relies on high compression to create the conditions for ignition.
diesel combustion
"They were explaining, you know how diesels work, and you know what goes on and how the combustion takes place inside of a diesel cylinder. And I asked the question."
Diesel combustion is how a diesel engine burns fuel. Instead of using a spark, the engine compresses air so much that it gets hot enough to ignite the fuel.
Diesel combustion is the process where fuel ignites due to heat created by compression, not a spark. The speaker references this when explaining how the combustion event happens inside a diesel cylinder.
blowgun
"Crank it over? No, you can't do that. I took a little I took a blowgun. I took a real thin blowgun, took a piece of rubber hose..."
A blowgun is a tool that shoots air. Here, it’s used to push out dirt from inside the engine cylinder through the glow plug hole.
A blowgun is a handheld air tool used to direct compressed air into tight spaces. In this context, it’s used to clear debris (“crud”) out through the glow plug opening to avoid leaving liquid behind.
hydrostatic lock liquid in a cylinder
"I just wanted to be sure. I didn't want to leave any liquid in there. You know, diesels can also hydrostatic lock liquid in a cylinder, try to compress it, bend the connective. We're not okay."
Hydrostatic lock is when liquid gets into a cylinder where it shouldn’t. Since liquid can’t be compressed, forcing the engine to crank can cause serious damage.
Hydrostatic lock happens when liquid (not compressible) gets into a cylinder, preventing the piston from moving normally. Because liquids can’t compress like air/fuel, trying to crank the engine can bend connecting rods or damage internal parts.
scan tool
"[565.0s] Sometimes the most valuable tool in the shop. It isn't [568.4s] the scan tool of the socket set. It's experience and [573.2s] you've just got to recognize it when it's displayed."
A scan tool is a device a mechanic plugs into the car to read error codes from the computer. It can show what the car is complaining about, but the mechanic still needs experience to figure out what to do next.
A scan tool is a diagnostic device that reads the car’s onboard computer codes (and related data) to help pinpoint what’s wrong. The host contrasts it with “experience,” arguing that tools help, but judgment is what prevents mistakes and unnecessary work.
2022 Honda Pilot Sport
"[601.8s] I took my. [602.8s] Two thousand and twenty two Honda Pilot Sport in for a recall, which I heard about on the news."
This is a 2022 Honda Pilot, which is Honda’s family SUV with three rows of seats. Here it’s mentioned because the owner brought it in for a recall, but the repair turned out to be something simple.
The Honda Pilot is a midsize three-row SUV, and the 2022 Pilot Sport is a specific trim level. In this segment, the host uses it as an example of a recall visit that ended up being a very small fix.
recall
"[602.8s] Two thousand and twenty two Honda Pilot Sport in for a recall, which I heard about on the news. [608.6s] So I made an appointment."
A recall is when the car maker says there’s a problem that needs fixing. The owner is asked to bring the car in, and the fix is usually done for free because it’s about safety or legal requirements.
A recall is a manufacturer-initiated safety or compliance action when a vehicle has a defect that could affect safety or meet regulations. Owners are typically notified and asked to bring the car in so the issue can be inspected and repaired at no cost.
bushings
"They said that I needed a new front strut and control arm, and that the bushing was cracked and not that I don't love my car dealership"
A bushing is a soft insert (usually rubber) that helps suspension parts move smoothly. If it cracks, the suspension can start to rattle or feel sloppy.
A bushing is a rubber (or rubber-like) mounting inside suspension parts that isolates vibration and allows controlled movement. When bushings crack or dry-rot, the suspension can develop play that leads to noise, poor alignment, and accelerated wear.
front struts
"They said that I needed a new front strut and control arm, and that the bushing was cracked"
A front strut is part of the suspension that helps your car ride smoothly and stay stable when you turn or hit bumps. If it’s worn out, the car can feel less controlled and less comfortable.
A front strut is a key suspension component that helps control ride height and steering stability while also supporting the front of the car. It typically includes the shock absorber and a structural mounting point, so when it’s worn or damaged it can affect handling and braking feel.
control arms
"They said that I needed a new front strut and control arm, and that the bushing was cracked"
A control arm is a metal link that holds the wheel in the right position. If it’s worn, the wheel can move more than it should, which can make the car feel loose or noisy.
A control arm (often called an A-arm) is a suspension link that locates the wheel and allows it to move up and down. Worn control arms or their bushings can cause vague steering, clunks, and uneven tire wear.
outer tie rod end boots
"Okay, the outer tirod boot are dry rotted. Are they open no? Are they leaking Greece?"
The tie rod boot is a rubber cover that protects a steering joint and keeps it lubricated. If it cracks, the joint can wear out faster and steering can start to feel off.
The outer tie rod boot is the protective rubber cover over the tie-rod end’s joint. If it’s dry-rotted or torn, grease can leak out and dirt can get in, which can eventually damage the tie-rod and affect steering.
dry rotted
"Okay, the outer tirod boot are dry rotted."
Dry-rot is when rubber gets old and cracks. In car parts like boots and bushings, that can mean they’re not protecting or cushioning the joint anymore.
Dry-rot describes rubber deterioration where the material becomes brittle and cracked due to age, heat, and exposure. In suspension and steering boots/bushings, dry-rot often means the part is no longer sealing or isolating properly.
cost vs. vehicle usage
"I don't see repair shops do a lot of They don't balance cost need against how the vehicle's being used, and it's very important in the end. Sarah decided at"
It means deciding repairs based on how you really drive the car, not just what a checklist says. If the car isn’t being stressed much, some issues may not need urgent fixing.
This refers to weighing repair cost against how the vehicle is actually used (commuting, road trips, weather exposure, and driving style). The idea is that not every worn component needs immediate replacement if the risk and impact are low for that specific use.
control arm bushing
"The car is safe, the car's not going anywhere, the control arm bushing isn't going to fall out next week. Right,"
The control arm bushing is a small rubber part that helps the suspension move smoothly. If it wears out, the car can feel loose or make noises, and it can affect handling.
A control arm bushing is a rubber (or rubber-like) mount that connects a suspension control arm to the chassis. When it wears out, it can allow extra movement, causing clunks, poor handling, and uneven tire wear.
rear subframe
"Digital recall was It's like one sentence if you want to hear what the original Yeah, what was it? The [967.2s] problem centers around the rear subframe, which can corrode at suspension mounting points and cause the rear suspension to fail."
The rear subframe is the metal structure that holds up the rear suspension. If it rusts where the suspension bolts on, the suspension can become loose or fail, which is dangerous.
The rear subframe is a structural frame that supports the rear suspension and helps locate the suspension geometry. If it corrodes at the suspension mounting points, it can weaken the attachment and lead to rear suspension failure—an unsafe condition.
suspension mounting points
"The [967.2s] problem centers around the rear subframe, which can corrode at suspension mounting points and cause the rear suspension to fail."
Suspension mounting points are the places where the suspension bolts or attaches to the car. If those spots rust, the suspension can’t stay securely attached.
Suspension mounting points are the specific areas where the suspension components attach to the car’s body or subframe. Corrosion at these points can reduce strength and allow movement or separation, which can compromise handling and safety.
rear suspension
"The [967.2s] problem centers around the rear subframe, which can corrode at suspension mounting points and cause the rear suspension to fail."
The rear suspension is what keeps the rear wheels connected and helps the car ride smoothly. If it fails, the car can become unstable and unsafe.
The rear suspension is the system that connects the rear wheels to the car’s body and controls ride and wheel contact. If it fails, the car can lose stability and steering control, especially during braking or cornering.
second opinion
"Listen, you gotta get you gotta get a second opinion in this case. Like I said, it could be one pothole, but what if it's not right?"
A second opinion means you ask another mechanic to look at the same issue. It can help confirm whether the repair is truly needed and how urgent it is.
A second opinion is getting another qualified assessment of a suspected repair problem before spending money. The host uses it to counter situations where the first shop’s diagnosis or urgency may be overstated.
exhaust catalytic converter
"during the course of the year, struts, exhaust catalytic converter specifically are probably the least repairs we do now because cars just don't need it."
A catalytic converter is a part in the exhaust that helps reduce pollution. It can go bad, but the host is saying it’s not always the real problem when people are told they need one.
An exhaust catalytic converter is an emissions-control device in the exhaust system that converts harmful pollutants into less harmful gases. It can fail over time, but the host is arguing it’s often over-suggested as a repair compared to what cars actually need.
risk sale of one to ten
"What's the level of need, what's the how important is it? Where is it on a risk sale of one to ten, ten being the worst? Is it a three? Is it a nine?"
The host is talking about rating how risky or urgent a car problem is on a 1-to-10 scale. The idea is to help you understand what’s truly urgent versus what’s just being sold as urgent.
The host is describing a “risk scale” for repair recommendations—ranking how serious a problem is from 1 (low) to 10 (worst). The point is to communicate urgency clearly so customers don’t feel pressured into unnecessary repairs.
kickback
"[1154.8s] Okay, so we got kickback or I think I fixed my problem. But But what I called you originally for [1160.8s] was that you hit the starter button and you get a kickback on the motor and it puts a lot of wear on that Uh, that clutch gear in this right."
Kickback is when the engine bucks or jerks the wrong way when you try to start it. It can damage the starter-related parts if it happens repeatedly.
Kickback is when the engine abruptly turns backward or jerks due to combustion happening at an unfavorable moment during starting. On motorcycles, kickback can stress the starter drive and clutch components, accelerating wear and making starting harder over time.
starter button
"[1154.8s] Okay, so we got kickback or I think I fixed my problem. But But what I called you originally for [1160.8s] was that you hit the starter button and you get a kickback on the motor and it puts a lot of wear on that Uh, that clutch gear in this right."
The starter button is what you press to get the engine to crank. If the engine kicks back right after you press it, it often means the spark timing or starting setup isn’t right.
The starter button is the control that energizes the motorcycle’s starter motor circuit. When the engine “kicks back” after pressing it, it usually points to an ignition timing or starting-gear engagement issue rather than a simple electrical failure.
clutch gear
"[1160.8s] was that you hit the starter button and you get a kickback on the motor and it puts a lot of wear on that Uh, that clutch gear in this right. [1169.5s] The clutch assembly sure for the start of the starter clutch."
This is the gear that helps the starter connect to the engine. If the engine kicks back, that gear can get beat up and wear out faster.
The clutch gear here refers to the starter clutch/drive gear that engages the engine when the starter motor spins. If kickback occurs, it can increase mechanical stress on this gear and the starter clutch assembly, leading to premature wear.
starter clutch
"[1169.5s] The clutch assembly sure for the start of the starter clutch. [1172.8s] Yeah, I was trying to fiure out why it does that."
The starter clutch is the part that lets the starter spin the engine, then it lets go once the engine is running. If it’s not working right, starting can be rough and parts can wear out quickly.
A starter clutch is the one-way engagement mechanism that connects the starter motor to the engine during cranking and then disengages. If it’s worn or if starting conditions cause kickback, it can lead to hard starts and accelerated wear of the starter drive components.
battery
"[1203.0s] checked the battery. He got to make sure the battery [1204.9s] was good."
The battery powers the starter and ignition. If it’s weak, the bike may crank poorly and start in a way that causes problems.
Battery condition affects starter performance and ignition stability. A weak battery can cause slow cranking and inconsistent ignition behavior, which can worsen starting symptoms like kickback.
single fire ignition
"[1207.8s] it's not the compensator. [1210.6s] And then I went ahead and switched over to a single fire ignition and that's well, it helped it a lot, right"
Single-fire ignition is a way the spark is triggered. Switching to it can change how the engine lights off during starting and may reduce kickback.
Single-fire ignition is an ignition setup where the engine fires once per cycle per cylinder (as opposed to firing more frequently in a different pattern). Changing ignition mode can alter starting behavior and reduce kickback if the original configuration was contributing to unfavorable spark events.
aftermarket starter
"[1210.6s] And then I went ahead and switched over to a single fire ignition and that's well, it helped it a lot, right, So the guy I bought the bike from me, you know, I really pampered my Harley's and he had an aftermarket starter in there. [1229.8s] and I was so I was so happy it went bad,"
An aftermarket starter is a replacement starter that isn’t the original factory one. Sometimes these work great, but if they don’t match the bike’s setup well, they can cause starting problems.
An aftermarket starter is a non-OEM starter motor or starter drive installed instead of the factory part. Fitment, starter clutch behavior, and electrical characteristics can differ, which can contribute to starting issues like kickback or premature wear.
timing
"It's generally ignition or somebody's modified the ignition system, or they're playing with timing, or they're trying to make it run better because they know better, and you know, it doesn't work like that."
Timing is about when the engine does things like firing the spark. If it’s off, the engine can run rough, lose power, and potentially cause damage over time.
In an engine, timing refers to when key events happen—most commonly when the spark occurs relative to the engine’s position and RPM. Changing timing without proper calibration can cause misfires, knock (detonation), poor fuel economy, and long-term damage.
ignition system
"It's generally ignition or somebody's modified the ignition system, or they're playing with timing, or they're trying to make it run better because they know better, and you know, it doesn't work like that."
The ignition system is the part of the car that makes the engine’s fuel ignite. If it’s changed or adjusted wrong, the engine can run poorly or even get damaged.
The ignition system is what creates the spark (or ignition event) that lights the air-fuel mixture in the engine. If someone modifies the ignition system or changes how it fires, it can affect engine timing, power, emissions, and even reliability.
compensate somewhere else
"And every time you modify something, you've got to compensate somewhere else or just for something else and make changes."
The host is saying that if you change one thing on an engine, you can’t ignore the rest. Cars are connected systems—adjusting one part often requires adjusting others too.
This is the idea that changing one part of an engine system (like ignition or timing) forces other parts to be adjusted to keep the engine operating correctly. Modern engines are tightly calibrated, so “fixing” one variable without recalibration can create new problems elsewhere.
engine longevity
"We think the majority of stuff today is junk. It's made like junk, it acts like junk, it breaks like junk. There's just no longevity to it."
Engine longevity just means how long an engine lasts. The host is saying modern engines don’t seem to last as long as older ones used to.
Engine longevity is how long an engine can run reliably before major wear or failures show up. The host argues that many modern engines lack longevity—meaning they wear out or break sooner than older designs.
Jeep Grand
"...ist for a minute, Maddie, I had a twenty eighteen Jeep Grand Cherokee this week. Customer complaint, young cou..."
The Jeep Grand Cherokee is a mid-size SUV, meaning it’s a larger vehicle built for carrying people and gear comfortably. It can handle different road conditions, not just smooth highways. The podcast mentions it because a customer had a problem with one that needed attention.
The Jeep Grand Cherokee is a mid-size SUV known for combining everyday comfort with off-road capability. It’s a common choice for drivers who want a versatile family vehicle, which is why it often shows up in service discussions when owners report issues. In a “Car Doctor” context, it likely came up due to a customer complaint that needed diagnosis and repair.
AC compressor
"The AC compressor doesn't kick on. It's got a full charge of refrigerant. Electrically, it's not turning on the compressor."
The AC compressor is the part that makes the air conditioning work by moving refrigerant through the system. If it doesn’t turn on, the AC can’t make the air cold.
The AC compressor is the pump that pressurizes refrigerant so the air conditioning system can move heat out of the cabin. If the compressor doesn’t kick on, the system can’t produce cold air even if there’s refrigerant present.
refrigerant
"It's got a full charge of refrigerant. Electrically, it's not turning on the compressor."
Refrigerant is the fluid inside the AC system that carries heat away from the cabin. If the system has a full charge, the AC problem is less likely to be “not enough refrigerant.”
Refrigerant is the working fluid in an air conditioning system that absorbs heat when it evaporates and releases heat when it condenses. The speaker notes the system has a full charge, which helps rule out a low-refrigerant problem.
powertrain control module
"That control head sends a request out to the powertrain control module, the engine controller. The engine controller grounds the blue yellow wire on Pin nine..."
The powertrain control module is the car’s main computer for the engine and related systems. In this story, it’s the computer that decides whether to send power to the AC components.
The powertrain control module (PCM) is the main engine/transmission control computer in many vehicles. Here, the PCM receives the AC request and then controls the electrical path that should energize the AC relay and compressor.
power distribution center
"feeds up to the power distribution center under the hood. The AC relay."
The power distribution center is the car’s under-hood electrical box that holds relays and fuses. In this case, the AC relay lives in that box, which affects how easy and costly the repair is.
The power distribution center is the fuse/relay box area under the hood that routes electrical power to major systems. The speaker explains that the AC relay is located there, and that the relay is integrated in a way that makes replacement expensive.
AC relay
"The AC relay. As long as that has two powers in another ground will then activate and energize the AC compressor... I one step through another I pinned it down. Hey, i've got a bad AC relay."
An AC relay is a switch controlled by the car’s electronics that turns the AC compressor on. If the relay fails, the compressor won’t get the power it needs.
An AC relay is an electrically controlled switch that supplies power to the AC compressor circuit. The speaker finds that the AC compressor isn’t being energized, then concludes the AC relay is bad—so the relay is preventing the compressor from turning on.
triple Strike ignition
"if you had gotten a replacement module or a replacement triple Strike or double Strike ignition for that Harley, would it work as well as the original?"
They’re talking about an ignition system on a Harley—basically the part that makes the spark happen. They’re worried that a replacement version might not work as well as the original.
“Triple Strike ignition” appears to be the speaker’s way of describing a specific ignition setup for a Harley. In general, an ignition system’s job is to create the spark at the right time, and the point here is whether a replacement module would perform as well as the original.
double Strike ignition
"if you had gotten a replacement module or a replacement triple Strike or double Strike ignition for that Harley, would it work as well as the original?"
They mention a second type of ignition setup on a Harley. The main idea is that if you replace ignition parts, you want to know it will still work like the original.
“Double Strike ignition” is mentioned as an alternative ignition configuration for the Harley in question. The discussion is about ignition replacement parts/modules and whether modern replacements match the performance of the original equipment.
water pump
"Yeah you can't. I challenge anybody to go find a [1550.3s] water pump for a small block Chevy on a Saturday afternoon, lickety split. It's it's not that easy anymore."
A water pump moves coolant through the engine so it doesn’t overheat. They’re saying that finding one quickly used to be easier than it is now.
A water pump is a cooling-system component that circulates coolant through the engine to prevent overheating. The speaker uses it to make a point about how much harder it can be to source certain parts quickly for older or less-common applications.
small block Chevy
"Yeah you can't. I challenge anybody to go find a [1550.3s] water pump for a small block Chevy on a Saturday afternoon, lickety split. It's it's not that easy anymore."
“Small block Chevy” is a famous Chevrolet V8 engine used in a lot of older cars. They’re using it to show that even common-sounding parts can be tough to get fast today.
“Small block Chevy” refers to Chevrolet’s compact V8 engine family (commonly used in many classic cars). In this segment, it’s used as an example of a part (like a water pump) that used to be easy to find but is now harder to source quickly.
high tech automobile
"And there's [1557.5s] you know there they it's become I won't say that made it that way, meaning the industry and society, but you know, the advancement of technology and the creation of the high tech automobile has eliminated, has eliminated simple, has eliminated where the parts houses could make profit on smaller parts."
They mean modern cars that depend more on electronics. Their point is that electronics make parts harder to find quickly compared with older, simpler cars.
“High tech automobile” here means modern vehicles that rely heavily on electronics and specialized modules. The speaker’s point is that as cars become more electronic, parts availability and stocking strategies change—making it harder to get “simple” components quickly.
twenty mile radius of the house
"It's anymore. [1580.5s] It's it's no fun anymore, brother, it really isn't. It's [1584.0s] you can tinker and stay within the twenty mile radius of the house, but beyond the scope of Triple A you're doomed."
They’re basically saying older cars are manageable close to home, but if something breaks farther away, you can get stuck because parts and help aren’t as easy to get.
This is a practical concept about service coverage: the speaker is contrasting local, easy-to-support driving with longer trips where roadside assistance becomes necessary. In other words, older cars can be “fine” near home, but beyond a limited range you’re more exposed if you can’t source parts quickly.
Triple A
"you can tinker and stay within the twenty mile radius of the house, but beyond the scope of Triple A you're doomed. [1590.4s] So no way, we're we're riding."
They’re talking about AAA, the roadside assistance service. The point is that AAA can help, but if you’re too far from where help is practical, you can still be stuck.
“Triple A” refers to AAA (American Automobile Association), a roadside assistance organization. The speaker uses it to describe how far help reliably extends when a car breaks down—implying that beyond AAA’s practical reach, you may struggle without parts or local support.
no crank condition
"Right, let's yes, I'm saying no crank, right, no crank. So we've got a no crank condition."
“No crank” means the engine won’t even try to start—nothing happens when you turn the key. The problem is often electrical, like a weak battery, bad wiring, or a faulty starter part.
A “no crank condition” means the starter motor doesn’t spin when you turn the key (or press the start button). It usually points to an issue in the starting circuit—like battery voltage, cable/ground connections, the starter relay, or the starter/solenoid itself.
starter wire
"It's the starter wire. But it's got a just a knight on a on the starter. It's got like it's got three but only one starter wire that runs to it."
The “starter wire” is the wire that tells the starter to engage. If it isn’t getting power when you try to start the car, the starter won’t crank.
The “starter wire” is the specific power/trigger lead that sends voltage to the starter assembly when you request a start. In troubleshooting, checking whether this wire is getting power helps determine whether the fault is upstream (switch/relay/wiring) or inside the starter.
volt meter
"So if we were to disconnect that that solenoid wire and hit the key, and we had a vault meter hooked up right, one positive into that the other leg to ground, does the vault meter show power?"
A volt meter is a tool that checks whether electricity is present. Here it’s being used to see if the starter circuit has power when the key is turned.
A “volt meter” (often a multimeter) measures electrical potential (voltage) to confirm whether the starting circuit is getting power. In no-crank diagnostics, technicians commonly check voltage at the starter trigger wire and compare it to ground to isolate wiring, relay, or battery issues.
ground leg
"Whenever I hook up a meter, I hook up the ground leg to the battery. I will take the positive leg and touch the positive post of the battery."
The “ground leg” is the meter lead that’s connected to the car’s electrical ground. If the ground is bad, the meter may show no power even when the battery is fine.
The “ground leg” is the meter lead connected to a known ground point (like the battery negative) during voltage testing. Good grounding is critical because many starter-circuit failures are actually caused by poor ground connections, which prevent current from completing the circuit.
starter solenoid
"You know, do I have feed to the starter? So if I have feed to the starter solenoid, then is the problem in that cable that runs down to the solenoid?"
The starter solenoid is like a heavy-duty electrical switch for the starter. When it gets the signal, it helps the starter motor crank the engine.
The starter solenoid is an electrically controlled switch on the starter that sends high current to crank the engine. When it receives a signal, it also typically engages the starter gear with the engine’s flywheel.
voltage drop
"And then I would have to vaultage drop that positive cable down to the starter or as you say, if you wanted, you could jump across it."
Voltage drop means some of the battery’s electrical power is being lost in the wires or connections. Bad connections can steal enough power that the starter won’t work.
Voltage drop is the loss of electrical voltage as current flows through a wire or connection. Corrosion, loose terminals, or damaged cables can cause enough voltage drop that the starter won’t crank even if the battery is still “good.”
jumper cables
"Put a battery you know, positive to jumper cable to the positive and then a jumper cable down to the battery stud or to the stud on the starter."
Jumper cables are the temporary cables you use to borrow power from another battery. Mechanics also use them to test whether the problem is in the wiring or the starter itself.
Jumper cables are used to temporarily connect a weak or dead battery to a power source so the starter can be tested or the vehicle can be started. In diagnostics, they can help bypass suspected cable/connection issues to see if the starter will crank.
hydrostatic lock issue
"But I'm just thinking. Do I have the potential for a hydrostatic lock issue? Is there coolant in a cylinder keeping the engine from cranking over?"
Hydrostatic lock is when liquid gets into the engine cylinder where it shouldn’t. Since liquids don’t compress, the engine can’t crank over safely until the fluid is removed.
Hydrostatic lock happens when liquid (often coolant or fuel) gets into a cylinder and can’t be compressed. The engine then can’t crank normally because the piston is effectively “stopped” by the incompressible fluid.
bench test
"take the starter back out, use your jumper cables across the battery, activate the starter on the bench, clamp it in avice."
A bench test means taking the part out and testing it on the bench with power. It helps confirm whether the part is bad or if the problem is in the car’s wiring.
A bench test is when a component like a starter is removed and tested on a workbench with direct power. This isolates the part from the vehicle wiring and allows you to confirm whether the starter motor itself works.
Ford Ranger
"this week. The Ranger. Now, you know, I talk to you guys about my cars like they're members of the family... the Ranger has started to develop a sweet smell inside the car, and it's probably the heater core starting to see."
They’re talking about a Ford Ranger truck. The truck started smelling like something is leaking inside the cabin, and the host thinks it’s coming from the heater core. Instead of taking the whole dash apart, they seal the heater core to fix the smell.
“The Ranger” refers to a Ford Ranger pickup, and this segment focuses on a cabin smell that points to a cooling-system component inside the dash. The host explains diagnosing the issue as heater-core related and then sealing it rather than removing the dashboard.
heater core
"the Ranger has started to develop a sweet smell inside the car, and it's probably the heater core starting to see... Caceal actually did seal the heater core... the point is... fix them, because hanging on to them might be the better way to go."
The heater core is the part that makes warm air for the cabin by using hot engine coolant. If it starts leaking, you can smell sweet coolant inside the car. Sealing it can stop the leak without taking the dashboard apart.
The heater core is a small radiator inside the dashboard that uses engine coolant to warm the cabin. If it leaks, coolant can create a sweet smell and can also fog windows or cause dampness inside the car. Sealing it is a way to stop the leak without removing the dash.
KCl
"we noticed that, so we poured a bottle of KCl in ran it around and again... I have no problem with the kcal in there. It's gonna work just fine."
KCl is a chemical additive they put into the cooling system to help seal small leaks. The idea is to stop the leak without doing a big repair job. In this story, it’s used to address the heater-core problem.
KCl here refers to potassium chloride used as a coolant additive to help seal small leaks. In this context, the host describes pouring it in and running the system to see if it stops the heater-core leak. It’s an example of a “stop-leak” style approach rather than a full mechanical repair.
Caceal
"Caceal actually did seal the heater core. Now why would I do that?"
Caceal is the name of a leak-stopping product they used. The host says it actually sealed the heater core leak. They’re using it as a practical fix when a proper replacement part is hard to find.
Caceal is the specific stop-leak product the host says sealed the heater core. The brand matters here because the host is recommending a particular product that worked for this older vehicle. It’s presented as an alternative to removing the dashboard for a replacement part.
older cars
"sometimes you just got to look at those older cars and think outside the box to fix them, because hanging on to them might be the better way to go."
They’re basically saying that with older cars, you don’t always have to do the biggest, most expensive repair. Sometimes a simpler fix works better, especially if the right replacement part is hard to get. Here, sealing the heater core is the simpler approach.
The host is making a “repair strategy” point: with older cars, sometimes it’s smarter to use creative, lower-disassembly fixes instead of doing an expensive job. The reasoning is that parts availability and labor cost can make a full replacement impractical. In this case, sealing the heater core avoids removing the dashboard.
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