Ron Ananian, The Car Doctor - Classic Car Doctor - August 29, 2015 - Shop Time, Strange Noises & Real Repairs
About this episode
Ron Ananian tackles three real-world repair calls with a heavy focus on diagnostics. An Acura MDX keeps dying from a battery drain; Ron tracks it down by measuring parasitic draw and cross-referencing multiple wiring diagrams until unplugging the Bluetooth hands-free control link stops the drain. A 2000 Subaru overflows coolant on long trips, leading to debates about radiator caps, overflow hose behavior, and where air is coming from. Other calls cover a 2004 Mercury van’s chirping cam synchronizer vs. timing chain, and a 2002 Chevy with lifter-tap noise tied to a GM oil pump O-ring bulletin. The show also includes classic-car clutch advice and a lively discussion about NJ inspection stickers at hot rod events.
Classic Car Doctor - August 29, 2015 (Hour 1)
Take a ride back to August 29, 2015, and hear what was happening in the bays—and on the phones—11 years ago on Ron Ananian, The Car Doctor Radio Show.
Ron opens the hour with a simple but loaded question: how long should it really take to repair an Acura? It’s a conversation that still rings true today—about labor time, expectations, and the realities of modern auto repair.
From there, it’s a full lineup of real-world problems:
- A classic 1969 Mustang with a clutch pedal that intermittently sticks to the floor
- A 2000 Subaru Forester showing signs of a possible coolant leak
- A 2004 Mercury Monterey with a squealing noise at idle
- And a 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche with a lifter tap that only shows up at 2000 RPM
It’s a snapshot of the cars, concerns, and diagnostic thinking from over a decade ago—and a reminder that while vehicles change, the fundamentals of good diagnosis never do.
Car advice, done right—then and now.
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dead battery
"2006 Acura MDX came into the shop at Ari Automotive in January of 2012 with a dead battery. Battery was stone dead, we replaced it two and a half years earlier and we ended up putting a battery in it."
A “dead battery” means the battery doesn’t have enough power to start the car. If it happens again after a recent replacement, there’s usually something else causing the battery to go flat.
A “dead battery” means the battery voltage is too low to crank the engine or power the car’s systems reliably. When a battery dies soon after replacement, it often points to an underlying issue like a charging problem, a parasitic drain, or an incorrect/defective battery.
source of the drain
"I knew that I had to find the source of the drain. I had to find out why this battery was being pulled down."
They’re trying to find what’s “stealing” power from the battery. If something keeps using electricity when the car is off, the battery will go dead early.
A “drain” usually means parasitic (key-off) current draw—electricity being used by the car when it should be off. Finding the drain is central to diagnosing why a battery dies repeatedly.
50 milliamps
"In terms of a drain, 50 milliamps, .05, five hundredths of an amp is considered okay on a computer car."
They’re talking about a typical “normal” battery drain amount—about 50 milliamps. If the car draws way more than that when it’s off, it usually means something is wrong.
50 milliamps (0.05A) is used as a benchmark for what’s considered an acceptable key-off draw on many “computer cars.” The speaker contrasts this normal threshold with the much higher measured draw to show the problem is abnormal.
fuse boxes
"I got lucky within the first 45 minutes and I say it like that because this particular Acura had three fuse boxes. It had two under the hood and one under the driver's side of the dash."
Cars can have more than one fuse panel. If the drain is caused by a circuit in a different panel, you won’t find it until you check that fuse box too.
Modern cars often have multiple fuse/relay panels (“fuse boxes”) distributed throughout the vehicle. For parasitic draw testing, you may need to check more than one fuse box because the offending circuit could be in any of them.
PCM
"Seven and a half amp fuse that when you read the wiring diagram goes right to the engine computer PCM... kept the PCM alive... Now, you say to yourself, is it the PCM?"
The PCM is the car’s main computer for the engine and drivetrain. If it doesn’t get power correctly, the car can act like it has an engine problem even when the engine itself is fine.
PCM stands for Powertrain Control Module, the main computer that manages engine and drivetrain functions. If a fuse “keeps the PCM alive,” it means that fuse provides the PCM’s power/keep-alive feed, so wiring or fuse issues can mimic sensor or engine problems.
Bluetooth hands-free control link
"The Bluetooth hands-free control link, that's right. To do that, I only had to take down the interior puddle lights by the sunroof, the sunroof control."
That’s the car’s Bluetooth hands-free system. If you’re troubleshooting electrical issues, checking this area can help find what’s staying powered when it shouldn’t.
This refers to the vehicle’s Bluetooth hands-free system interface/control link. In repairs, isolating it helps identify whether the Bluetooth module is causing an electrical draw or communication issue.
22-pin green connector
"About 35 minutes later, I was there and down and I'm looking at the 22-pin green connector for the Bluetooth hands-free. Unplug it, draw's gone."
That’s a big electrical plug with many wires going into it. Unplugging the right connector lets a mechanic test whether that module is causing the problem.
A 22-pin connector is a multi-wire plug used to connect a module (here, the Bluetooth hands-free system). The number of pins and connector color help technicians identify the exact harness connection to unplug for testing or isolation.
wiring diagrams
"The star of this repair of the week is the wiring diagrams. Wiring diagrams are so darn critical to this business."
Wiring diagrams are schematics that show how components connect electrically, including fuses, connectors, and wire routing. They’re critical for diagnosing electrical faults because they reveal the correct test points and circuit paths.
pressure plate
"Do we have the beginnings of a pressure plate that's starting to bind? And that's possible."
The pressure plate is the part that squeezes the clutch disc so the engine power can connect to the transmission. If it starts to stick or wear out, the clutch won’t work smoothly.
The pressure plate is the clutch component that clamps the clutch disc against the flywheel. If it starts to bind, collapse, or wear unevenly, the clutch can behave inconsistently or fail to disengage cleanly.
clutch
"I still think this is a clutch issue, Tony. But what I would ask you to try and do is from first to second, you're driving at a certain RPM, a certain load, right?"
The clutch is what lets the engine and transmission connect and disconnect. If it’s not working right, shifting—especially between certain gears—can feel wrong or cause strange behavior.
A clutch is the mechanical connection between the engine and the transmission. When it wears or misbehaves, you can get problems specifically during certain gear changes, like first-to-second.
rust spots
"Right, you know, and it sort of doesn't matter mileage because if you told me 5,000 miles in 12 years, then I'd start to think about rust spots on the pivot point of the plate itself."
Rust spots are small areas where metal has started to corrode. On cars, that can make parts stick or not work right, and it can get worse over time.
Rust spots are early corrosion areas that can spread quickly, especially on joints and moving parts. In older cars, even small rust can lead to binding, poor operation, and eventual failure of the affected component.
Labor Day weekend
"By the way, everybody, for our car doctor faithful out there next weekend, let me just point out real quick Labor Day weekend."
They’re just talking about when the event is happening—Labor Day weekend. It’s useful for planning if you want to attend.
This is a scheduling detail for a car event, not a technical automotive concept. It helps listeners understand when and where the host’s shop/show activities are happening.
radiator cap
"I went through about four or five radiator caps new. Okay, and is the port itself clear? Yep. All right, then you've got something that's defying the laws of physics because regardless of what kind of car it is, if the cooling system's clean, if the radiator cap is working properly,"
The radiator cap helps the engine stay cool by controlling pressure in the cooling system. If it’s not working right, the coolant can boil or overflow and you can end up with air where you don’t want it.
A radiator cap is more than a lid—it controls the cooling system’s pressure and helps regulate coolant flow between the radiator and overflow/expansion tank. When it’s working correctly, it raises the boiling point of the coolant and allows proper venting without introducing air problems.
expansion tank
"Actually, two things. A, where's the air coming from? And B, is that overflow tube that drops down into the expansion tank?"
The expansion tank is where extra coolant goes when the engine heats up. When the engine cools, it can pull coolant back in so the system doesn’t run low.
An expansion tank (also called the coolant reservoir) is where coolant expands when heated. The overflow tube typically routes excess coolant into the tank, and the system later pulls coolant back as temperatures drop.
cam position sensor
"If it's a half a distributor sticking in the intake manifold with a sensor on top, that is the cam position sensor"
The cam position sensor is a small sensor that tells the computer where the camshaft is. The mechanic mentions it because the sensor location can help identify what timing setup the engine has.
The cam position sensor tells the engine control unit (ECU) where the camshaft is in its rotation. It’s used for timing and fuel/spark control, and some engines use it alongside or near the timing system, so its presence can hint at the engine’s design.
timing chain is bathed in oil
"If you think the chain is bad and it's squeaky, the timing chain is bathed in oil. If the chain is that dry that it's squeaky, you've got bigger problems than a timing chain"
This is a diagnostic principle: the timing chain is designed to run submerged/lubricated by engine oil. If it’s making noise, the mechanic checks whether lubrication is actually present (oil level/pressure) and whether the chain or related guides are worn.
K&N
"And it is amazing how much debris a K&N air filter can hold and still let the engine run."
K&N makes a reusable air filter. Instead of throwing it away, you clean it and put oil on it again so it can trap dirt.
K&N is a well-known aftermarket brand that makes reusable, oiled air filters. Their filters are designed to be cleaned and re-oiled instead of replaced every time.
K&N filter cleaner
"cleaned it out, washed it with the K&N filter cleaner, let it soak, then took it over to the sink, a little bit of warm water and gently washed it..."
This is the special soap/cleaner made for cleaning reusable K&N filters. It helps get the dirt out without ruining the filter material.
K&N filter cleaner is a specific cleaning solution used to remove dirt from the reusable filter media. Using the proper cleaner helps avoid damaging the filter and restores its ability to hold and trap contaminants.
oiled
"You don't want to disturb the filter element of the filter, washed it, let it soak in some water, cleaned it, oiled it."
For oiled, reusable air filters, oil is applied to the filter media so it can capture fine dust. The speaker’s process—clean, soak, wash, then oil—highlights that re-oiling is part of restoring filtration performance.
root.com
"Terms and conditions apply. Subject to underwriting review. See root.com for details."
They’re talking about Root, a company that sells car insurance. They mention their website so you can read the fine print and learn how their insurance works.
The segment is promoting Root, an auto-insurance company. They’re referencing customer ratings (turning 4.7 stars into 5) and directing listeners to their website for details.
oil pressure at idle
"Okay. Full power. Oil pressure? Yeah, beautiful. Oil pressure at idle?"
Oil pressure at idle is how well the engine’s oil pump is circulating oil when the car is stopped and idling. If oil pressure is too low, the engine parts don’t get lubricated well and can make tapping noises.
Oil pressure at idle is the engine’s oil pressure when the engine is idling. Mechanics ask about it because low oil pressure can cause or worsen valve train noise (including lifter tapping) and can indicate lubrication problems.
General Motors
"There is a bulletin from General Motors. Have you seen this 020601038?"
General Motors sometimes publishes “service bulletins” when they find a common problem on certain engines. This one tells mechanics how to check the cause of noisy lifters and oil pressure issues.
General Motors (GM) issues technical service bulletins to alert dealers and technicians about known issues and provide diagnostic/repair guidance. In this segment, the GM bulletin is specifically about diagnosing engine lifter noise and oiling problems.
oil pump O-ring
"then there's a reasonable chance that you have a problem with that oil pump O-ring... start talking about that oil pump O-ring."
The oil pump O-ring is a seal that helps the oil pump pull oil correctly. If it leaks or doesn’t seal, the engine may not get enough oil pressure and the lifters can start making noise.
The oil pump O-ring (in this case, the seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump) is critical for maintaining correct oil pickup and preventing air leaks. If it fails, oil pressure can read low and lifters can start tapping due to insufficient or aerated oil flow.
engine sludge
"Now, we have also seen some cases with engine sludge and sludge clogging the oil pump or restricting, and it's also about volume."
Sludge is dirty, thick gunk that can build up inside an engine when oil isn’t changed often enough or the oil breaks down. It can block oil passages and reduce lubrication.
Engine sludge is a thick, tar-like buildup formed from degraded oil and contaminants. The speaker notes sludge can clog the oil pump or restrict oil flow, which can cause low oil pressure and lifter noise similar to sealing/air-ingestion problems.
oil starvation
"And this just could be a plain old fashioned oil starvation, lifter tap issue, and how clean is the inside of the engine."
Oil starvation means the engine isn’t getting enough oil to lubricate everything. That can lead to noisy lifters and, if it’s severe, faster engine wear.
Oil starvation occurs when parts of the engine don’t receive enough oil, often due to low pressure, restricted flow, or air ingestion. The speaker groups oil starvation with lifter tap issues and cleanliness problems inside the engine.
AC compressor
"It's not water pump. It's not AC compressor and so forth."
The AC compressor is what makes the air conditioning work by pressurizing refrigerant. If the noise is related to belt-driven accessories, the compressor can be part of the diagnosis.
The AC compressor is the belt-driven component that pressurizes refrigerant for air conditioning. When troubleshooting noises, checking whether the AC compressor is involved helps narrow down the source.
mechanical gauge
"Obviously, I'm going by the factory gauge. I have not hooked up my mechanical gauge to it."
A mechanical gauge is a direct tool that measures oil pressure more accurately than the dashboard. Mechanics use it to confirm whether the oil system is really working correctly.
A mechanical gauge is an external test tool connected to the engine to directly measure oil pressure. This is more reliable than relying solely on the dashboard gauge when diagnosing oil pressure-related concerns.
hood scoop
"To the guy that came up to me and said, it's a nice car, but if it were mine, I wouldn't put the hood scoop on it."
A hood scoop is an intake opening on the hood that can feed air to the engine or add a performance look. Whether it’s functional or purely cosmetic, it’s a common modification that people may debate at car shows.
roll bar
"I wouldn't put the roll bar in it and I'd change the wheels and tires."
A roll bar is a safety frame inside the car. It helps protect you if the car flips or crashes hard, and it often shows up on modified cars.
A roll bar is structural safety hardware installed inside the cabin to help protect occupants during a rollover or hard impact. It’s also common on track-focused or heavily modified cars, and it can change the car’s interior layout and appearance.
Root Insurance
"We're Root Insurance and collectively 72,000 drivers gave us a 4.7 star rating. The Root app measures how you drive so that we can reward better drivers with better prices."
Root Insurance is a company that sells car insurance. They use an app to track how you drive and then try to offer better prices to drivers they consider safer.
Root Insurance is an insurer that markets itself as a “new kind” of car insurance using a smartphone app to evaluate driving behavior. The pitch emphasizes rewarding safer driving with better prices based on measurable driving data.
car insurance
"We're Root Insurance and collectively 72,000 drivers gave us a 4.7 star rating. Drivers think our new way of doing car insurance is nearly perfect."
Car insurance is what you buy to protect yourself financially if something bad happens to your car. This ad is talking about pricing that depends on how you actually drive, not just general assumptions.
Car insurance is a financial product that helps cover losses from accidents, theft, and other covered events. In this segment, the host is discussing a usage-based approach where the insurer evaluates driving behavior to set pricing.
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