Cars rely on fluids to protect moving parts. If a car sits for a long time, those fluids can stop circulating, and that can increase the chance of wear or corrosion.
Flat spotting is when tires sit in one position and the rubber gets a little “set” in that shape. After you drive and the tire warms up, it often improves.
Car batteries don’t like sitting unused for a long time. Even if you use a charger/maintainer, the battery can still slowly change over time, and it may prefer occasional charge-and-discharge rather than staying “stuck” at one level.
A battery maintainer is a charger that keeps a car battery topped up while the car is parked. The host is saying it’s not perfect—batteries may still be happier with some real cycling instead of staying at the same charge level for months.
The alternator is what charges the battery while the car is running. The host is saying the battery likes getting recharged by the alternator, not just sitting on a maintainer.
A lead-acid battery is the typical car battery. It has liquid inside, and if the liquid level gets too low, the battery can’t work as well and may fail when you try to start the car.
Voltage drop means the car’s electrical voltage dips too low, usually when you try to start it. Modern cars are sensitive to that dip, so they can throw warning codes or fail to start even if the battery looks okay at rest.
Most cars use a 12-volt battery. The important idea is that a battery can show a decent voltage when you measure it, but still not have enough power to crank the engine.
The Chevrolet Volt is a car that can run on electricity from a plug, but it also has a gasoline engine to help when the battery runs low. It uses a battery and computer-controlled systems to decide when to use electric power versus the engine. Because of that, electrical warnings or codes can be part of the conversation.
Amperage is the battery’s ability to push enough current to crank the engine. Measuring voltage alone can be misleading—what matters is whether the battery can deliver enough power under load.
Cold cranking amps (CCA) tells you how strong a car battery is at starting the engine when it’s cold out. In winter, the battery has to work harder, so CCA is a key number for whether the car will start reliably.
A battery tender is a device you plug into your car to keep the battery charged while the car is parked. It helps prevent the battery from going dead during long storage periods.
When you start the car, the battery works hard to crank the engine. After that, it takes some time for the car to put that energy back, so just starting and idling in the garage may not help much.
The starter is what turns the engine over when you first start the car. It uses a lot of battery power, so the battery may need time to recharge after that.
The episode argues that long warm-up idling is counterproductive because the engine and emissions systems may not reach their best operating conditions. Instead, it suggests driving long enough to bring systems up while also allowing the battery to recover after starting.
Catalytic converters are parts in the exhaust that clean up the engine’s fumes. They have to get hot enough to work well, especially right after a cold start.
A cold start is when you start the car before the engine is fully warmed up. Because it’s cold, the car may add extra fuel at first to help the exhaust system heat up and work properly.
That oil protective layer is the thin coat of oil that helps protect the engine’s moving parts. If it’s missing—like after sitting—it can lead to extra wear when you start the engine.
The oil pan is the reservoir at the bottom of the engine that holds engine oil. When a car sits for months, oil can drain from the upper engine surfaces down into the oil pan, leaving less oil film on the cylinder walls at the next start-up.
RPMs tell you how fast the engine is spinning. Here, the host says around a certain RPM the engine changes how it opens the valves, which affects how it runs and loads.
This means the engine changes how much the valves open. Small openings help at low speed, and bigger openings help at higher speed, and you can see the change in how the engine performs on a dyno.
A dyno chart is a graph from a machine that tests the car’s engine. It shows how much power the engine makes at different RPMs, so you can spot weak spots or where it really pulls.
The oil temp gauge tells you how hot the engine oil is. Cold oil doesn’t protect as well, so the idea is to wait until it warms up before driving harder.
Term
washout on the cylinder walls
“Washout” here means the cylinder walls don’t get the right lubrication during cold starts or gentle driving. That can lead to more wear because the engine isn’t operating at full temperature yet.
“Lugging” means you’re driving a hill in too high of a gear, so the engine spins too slowly. Rather than shifting down, you press the gas and the engine has to work harder to keep the RPM from dropping.
Your car’s computer decides how much fuel to spray into the engine. When you’re lugging on a hill, it may add extra fuel to help the engine keep RPM up and get moving again.
Bore scoring means the inside walls of the engine cylinders get scratched or grooved. If it gets bad enough, the engine can start misfiring because the cylinders aren’t sealing or burning properly.
The Porsche 997.2 is a later version of the 911 with updated engine tech. The key point here is that the guest still found bore scoring on 997.2 engines, even though people expected it to be fixed.
Direct fuel injection (DFI) sprays fuel directly into the combustion chamber rather than into the intake port. The episode discusses DFI as an engine architecture change Porsche made for the 997.2, and how some people assumed it would eliminate certain failure modes.
The IMS issue is a known Porsche problem tied to a bearing in the engine’s intermediate shaft area. In this episode, it’s mentioned because people thought newer engines fixed it—then bore scoring still showed up.
“MA-01” is a code Porsche uses to label a specific engine version. The point is that the bore scoring they found was tied to that particular engine variant.
A misfire is when one or more cylinders don’t burn fuel correctly. The guest is saying bore scoring can eventually cause misfires because the cylinder isn’t working right.
A bore scope is a tiny camera that lets you look inside the engine’s cylinders. In this story, it’s how they checked the cylinder walls and saw the damage.
Concept
pull the engine, fully disassemble
This means the shop removes the engine and takes it apart completely to inspect the damage closely. The guest says Porsche’s rule is that if the scoring is bad enough to feel with a fingernail, it’s considered beyond repair without major work.
The Porsche 356 is an older Porsche sports car from the early days of the brand. People talk about it because it helped establish what Porsche cars were like—small, sporty, and built for driving. It’s also a common reference when discussing how Porsche made cars back then.
“Bore scoring” means the inside walls of the engine cylinders are getting scratched or worn. If that’s happening, it can be a sign the engine isn’t healthy, so buyers should look for it before purchasing.
“Cylinder five” means one particular cylinder inside the engine. Mentioning a specific one can hint that the problem isn’t uniform across the whole engine.
Term
Lickl Mali MLS2
This is an additive they put into the engine oil. The goal is to boost lubrication—especially when the car is driven hard on a track.
Term
AMSOIL 550
They’re talking about a specific engine oil they use for track driving. The “50” part is about how thick the oil stays when the engine gets hot.
Oil “shear down” means the oil’s viscosity effectively drops after being worked hard, especially at high temperatures and high load. Track driving accelerates this, so a thicker starting grade can end up closer to the manufacturer’s intended viscosity by the end of the session.
Molybdenum is a substance added to oil to help it protect moving parts. They’re saying their additive boosts how much molybdenum is in the oil compared to normal store-bought oil.
Parts per million (ppm) means “how much of something is mixed in,” but measured in tiny amounts. Here, they’re talking about getting the oil additives at the right tiny concentration.
5W40 is the oil’s “thickness” rating. It tells you how it flows when it’s cold and how it behaves when the engine is hot.
Term
DT540
DT540 is another Driven oil product the hosts mention as the formulation they believe is offered in the 5W40 line. They connect it to track use and oil-sample testing, implying it’s part of the same “additive chemistry” approach.
Baselining is like setting a baseline in science: you start with the car in a known condition. Then you can tell what changes later because you know where you started.
This is a way to look inside an engine cylinder using the opening where the spark plug goes. A small camera can check the cylinder wall for damage without taking the engine apart.
Ignition coils provide the electrical power for the spark plugs. If you’re already working in that area, replacing them can prevent ignition problems later.
A wear pattern is where the engine parts wear more in some spots than others. Looking at the whole cylinder helps you spot problems that might only show up at the bottom or the top.
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Welcome back.
I'm Derek.
This is 11 after nine, and I am once again joined by my good friend, Joe Finkel from FCP Euro.
And Joe is a master mechanic, and he has been a portion mechanic for decades.
And I have a whole bunch of questions, Joe, that I want to ask you.
And today's question is one that I struggle with a lot because people come to me and they say,
I love my car and I don't want to use it up.
I want to leave it in my garage and I only want to take it out on Sundays and enjoy it.
And while that's fine, and that's definitely one way to own the car,
especially older Porsches, but even more current ones.
Sometimes if you let them sit, you might have issues.
And so today's question is, are Porsches meant to be driven hard?
And when you were a master mechanic at Porsche, did you see more issues from cars that were
babied and garage kept or cars that were kind of more daily driven, you know,
maybe 34 days a week where they saw constant road use?
I'm really curious about kind of your take on that from the ground.
Glad to be back.
First of all, yeah, man, such a pleasure to be on.
Yeah, I would say these cars will sit to death.
They want to be exercised.
I was watching some of your previous videos and you nailed it on the head, right?
Like fluids need to be moving.
That's how stuff stays lubricated.
That's how tires don't get flat spotted, right?
And then a big one that people don't actually think about too much is the vehicle battery.
Your battery does not like sitting.
Even if it's on a battery maintainer, there's, you know, it wants to actually see some sort
of drain and some sort of recharge from the alternator.
Oh, really?
I always thought that you put it on a maintainer and it was like putting it in a stasis.
But you're saying it doesn't like to be at that level.
It likes to be discharged and recharged.
Yeah, it does.
I've noticed with cars that sit on battery maintainers for a long period of time,
especially if it's a lead acid battery, you'll start to evaporate the fluid inside of the
battery.
And then that level actually gets to a certain point where it's not good.
It's not good for the battery.
And so you can have the, it's really just, it's the plates inside the battery that don't like it.
And that's where you could get a short, like plates can short out to each other.
And now you have a dead battery when you go to start the car.
It's amazing to me, Joe, like how sensitive more modern Porsches are to voltage drops.
Even I have a GMC truck and it was throwing all kinds of crazy codes,
but it was still showing like 11.8 volts on a 12 volt battery.
But you would have thought that I had put in an eight volt battery into it.
And so maybe to your point, right?
They're designed to run at a certain level.
Yeah.
And also checking the fluid level, right?
You can add distilled water.
You can pull the caps off and there's little levels in there where you could see the water
needs to be up to.
And you can add distilled water to your battery to keep it healthy at a healthy fluid level.
That way it's not, you know, running on empty, no fluid.
Another common misconception I see with batteries now that you mentioned is
a lot of people will put a volt meter on the battery and go, oh yeah,
I've got 12 and a half volts.
Like why isn't this thing cranking over?
Well, you need amperage.
Amperage is what gets the voltage to the starter.
So it's almost like having a water tower full of water,
but nothing's actually moving that water to the faucet in your house.
So you need that amperage to push the energy out to the actual starter.
And so that's why you see actual testers.
They'll look for cold cranking amps to test the battery versus voltage
because the amps are where it's at.
All right.
So let me ask you this because when I think about batteries on battery tenders,
I think about cars sitting.
I think about New England and I think about the Northern States
and I think about the colder climates around the world
where we put our cars under a blanket for between three and six months.
Lately in New Hampshire, it's more like it feels like 12 months that my cars went away.
But you know, the common thing was, well, you know, every month I back it out
and I run it for 10 or 15 minutes in my driveway
and warm it up and get the fluids going and then I pull it back in.
Whereas other people are like, nope, when it's away, it's away.
Leave it away.
Keep it on a tender.
What do you think as a mechanic?
If I was going to take one over the other,
Porsche actually has some information on storing a car.
And then we have the things that we've, you know,
kind of figured out over time for ourselves what's good practices and what's not.
So your first one, taking the car out, letting it idle,
you will also idle that car to death.
What does that mean?
Well, so we'll stay on the battery topic, right?
And if you start your car, it actually takes 20 minutes of driving
for the battery to recover from you starting the car.
So really?
So yeah, so the person who starts their car up and lets it idle in their garage
for 10 minutes or whatever, it's actually not charging that battery.
It's still recovering from when you turn the key and started the car.
There's a lot of draw from the starter when you start your car up for the first time.
So yeah, 20 minutes of driving to get that battery back to a healthy state.
And then we'll talk about the idling part.
Letting your car sit there and warm up idling is probably the worst.
Obviously, you know, there's that nasty B word that's floating around the forms,
you know, bore scoring for those of you who are new.
That is definitely one way to increase your chances of bore scoring.
Porsche's design model for getting the catalytic converters up to 10 quickly
is to actually dump a little bit of extra fuel in on cold start.
And that unburnt fuel makes it down into the cats where it then blows up
and gets your cats up to 10 super quick.
Now, stop it.
You bomb your cats to warm them up.
Essentially, yeah.
Do you really?
Yeah.
And so with that, it sort of causes cylinder, what am I thinking?
Wash out.
Yeah, you have gas like running down the sides of your cylinder,
washing off that oil protective layer.
And I would imagine that leads to the bore scoring.
Yeah.
And if you have had your car stored for six months,
and the first thing that you do is fire it up and let it idle.
I mean, oil doesn't stay attached to everything forever, right?
If it sits long enough, it'll drain down into the oil pan.
So now you have, let's say, a completely dry cylinder with no protection layer
because it's all in the pan and then you fire it up
and you've got extra fuel dumping in the cylinders, there's nothing.
You basically have a dry cylinder.
So let's go back to it then.
So in the winter, you don't want to start up your car and let it idle
and then put it back away because you're going to cause that damage
over and over again over the course of the winter.
But also, it probably leads to the advice I hear quite often
is let it idle for 30 seconds and then literally get on the road
and put a load on it.
But keep it under, what would you say, for RPMs?
3,500 RPMs is where the engine goes from low lift to high lift.
That's, you could see it on a dyno chart.
If you ever see a dyno chart, you see a nice arc
and then it kind of flat spots and then you see the rest of the arc take over.
Okay.
I would stay under that.
I would say three grand is probably good.
I wouldn't really go into high lift until the oil temp gauge is at dead center.
And if you're someone who monitors engine oil by temperature,
it's going to be 90C or 194 degrees Fahrenheit.
His is the mash to throttle, have fun temperature.
194.
Okay.
All right.
So if I'm looking at 200 on my gauge, then I know I'm safe to drive.
Yeah, you're super safe.
All right.
Yeah, it's funny on these cold mornings,
I actually dropped my son off this morning to school in my 997
and limped it along at 2,500 RPM waiting for that oil gauge,
which in 28 degrees did not want to get off the bottom
until I literally dropped him off and then I was almost back home.
So then it was like ready to go.
I'm like, yeah, but that's great advice.
So, so really it's, I always wondered about that
when it came to what causes the washout on the cylinder walls.
Yeah.
I think it's a culmination of things.
Another one that I heard of, which I believe is also true,
is lugging your engine.
So lugging your engine is going to be,
you're going up a slight hill and maybe you're in sixth gear
and instead of downshifting to get up the hill,
you just kind of give it more throttle, right?
Yeah.
And what the engine is going to do is it's going to go,
okay, I'll give you more throttle and it's going to dump more gas in
so it can make a bigger explosion so that you can accelerate
and make it up this hill.
Same principle, right?
It's dumping more fuel in to do what it needs to do
so that the engine RPM stopped going down.
They start going back up and you pick up speed.
So lugging your engine.
So if I had to assign like an RPM, I'd say like,
if you're a 2,500, 3,000 RPM up a slight hill and you've watched
and you start seeing those RPMs creep down because the hill's a little steeper
instead of, you know, madding it and trying to push past it to drive through downshift,
going to fifth, going to fourth, get the revs up, you know, 3,500, 4,000 RPM,
get the revs up, get up the hill, get yourself out of that fuel injection strategy
where it's going to dump more gas in.
All right.
Well, then I'm going to go ahead and ask a question
that probably will open up a can of worms here.
But I would love to know, we're talking about bore score and we're taught in,
you know, 996, 997, when Porsche went to 997.2 and they changed the engine architecture
to direct fuel injection, DFI, everyone thought you were safe
because you didn't have the IMS issue anymore and the bore scoring,
they thought that that wasn't an issue.
In your world, did you see 997.2s with this issue?
And bonus question, did you see 991s, the following generation
with any kind of issues with bore scoring?
Yes and yes.
Unfortunately, I want to, you know, I want to say no, but yes, I have scoped 997.2s.
So that's going to put you at the MA-01 engine.
Definitely saw it, definitely replaced engine at the dealership for it,
which was not something I anticipated at all, right?
You think, okay, bore scoring happens well down the road, 80, 90,000 miles
when it starts to actually become a problem where you'll see a misfire.
But I think this car had maybe 40,000 miles on it.
It was still under new vehicle warranty and had a hard misfire,
put a bore scope down the cylinder and it looked as worse as you can imagine,
where, you know, you can see all the lines, you can see where material was removed.
And Porsche had us go the extra step where we pull the engine, fully disassemble,
and their rule is if you can catch your fingernail on one of those lines,
it's definitely toast, right?
That was their rule.
I guess that's so German and so un-German.
I'm thinking like back in the 356, when they're making panels with wooden hammers
and making sure like, so it's like, yeah, use your fingernail.
And if it gets caught, then it's a bad engine.
But then again, with modern Porsche, you think that they have some kind of crazy laser tool
that like scans the cylinder walls and it knows to the micron,
like how deep those things are, but not so much.
No, not with that one.
It was the fingernail was the test there.
Oh my God, that's awesome.
Did now, was there any special rules in the handbook that you can have cut your fingernail
for two weeks to make sure it's of a certain length?
No, I'm just kidding.
No, no, no, but you did have to have a video.
And it was actually easier to do a video with a guitar pick.
Guitar pick stuck a little bit better than the fingernail.
And, you know, some people, if you're one of those people who don't like fingernails on a chalkboard,
it could kind of feel like that.
And I could see, you know, some people.
Yeah, you're freaking out.
Yeah.
Yeah.
No Swedish Porsche mechanics.
Yeah, exactly.
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That's awesome.
All right, so that's an obvious and extreme case.
But in your general world knowledge, and you talking with fellow portion of the tax,
and I assume that you guys have big Porsche mechanic retreats,
where you guys go to Germany and hang out in the hills and drink beer together.
Was this a topic of conversation amongst of you guys like,
oh my god, these 997.2s, these 991.1s, they haven't escaped the bore scoring issue?
No, as crazy as that sounds.
Do I feel bore scoring's overhyped a little bit?
I think it's something to be aware of.
I think educate yourself a little bit, be knowledgeable,
know what it looks like, know what to look for,
but don't let it deter you from buying a 997 or a 996 or a 991.
Just know the signs, know how to look for it, and know that things can be prevented.
There's preventative techniques where it may not be a thing.
You just picked up 102,000 mile 997, and I saw your pictures of the bore scope,
and I was like, that's the most beautiful thing I've ever seen.
You know just the things to say, Joe.
Thank you.
But at the same time, I have a buddy who has 07 Carrera S, and he tracks that car twice a year,
so it gets flogged properly.
And he has one line down the center of cylinder five, I think it is.
He bought this car three years ago, I think, and we bore scoped it recently,
So, you know, everyone's got their own, I don't know, magic formula,
secret formula, whatever you want to call it,
and ours just happens to be AMSOIL 550 with a can and a half of Lickl Mali MLS2, and it works.
That's what you landed on.
So, your cure, and I'm not going to say cure, your way to hold borescoring at bay is a 550 weight.
Yeah, and the 550 for us was because at the track, oil will actually shear down, so.
What does that mean?
So, you'll start the weekend at a 5W50, but as the oil starts to break down from higher
temperatures, we'll say, higher demand, higher temperatures on that oil at track usage,
track temperatures, it'll actually go from a 550 and it'll become a 540 by the end of the weekend.
And so, it's kind of starting out aiming high, so that way when it shears down,
it's what the manufacturer is looking for, recommends.
Porsche recommends 0W40.
That's where it's happiest, and that's just one of the things that we learned.
And so, we kind of prepare for that oil to actually shear down to a 5W40.
And then the MLS2 gets your molybdenum, which is the core ingredient in the MLS2.
It gets those values up higher.
Normal off the shelf motor oils will have like 80 parts per million, and we are looking for somewhere
around 3 to 400 parts per million.
And so, it just turns out that a can and a half of MLS2 puts us right at that 300, 400 parts per
million. So, if you have someone that may be a little bit more, I'm going to use the word mundane,
or I'm going to say the word pedestrian like myself, who might not be quite the mad scientist of
being able to mix the correct parts per million of additive to oil, is there anything out there
that you would be like, nah, that's a smoking gun. You should definitely use that in your car
to try to get the same result.
Yeah. So, two things, right? They go hand in hand. Driven has already figured it out.
They offer a 5W40. I believe it's DT540 is what they offer.
I also have a buddy who uses that in his track car. Same thing, tracks twice a year.
He sends, well, we joke with him. He actually changes his oil every time it gets up to temperature.
He changes his oil before and after the track and he sends out samples.
And we've borescoped those cylinders. And same thing, it doesn't move. The parts per
million are perfect, right, where they need to be. The test results come back beautiful.
So, DT440 driven motor oil, they've definitely, they figured it out. You don't have to be a mad
scientist. And the good thing for you is that we offer an SCP Euro so you can use it,
send it back, and then it's got that lifetime guarantee.
You're speaking my language, man. That's great. I didn't know you could get it through you because
I do, I'm a firm believer of baselining my cars. And by that, I mean, if I get a car,
I don't quite know the history of its service. In my mind, I think an old airplane mechanic
taught me this. You want to start from ground zero, where you know from a baseline where
everything is in your car. And so, he was always a big proponent of transmission fluid,
engine oil, all of the things that you can do, brake fluid, coolant, change everything out.
You know what's fresh? You start from ground zero and then that way you can monitor time
and or distance and miles. And then, so a long story short is while I was told that my 997
that I got had just been serviced, you can't believe it. And so, I will be ordering that from
you guys. So, thanks for that. I'm going to definitely do that. Yep. Absolutely.
To wrap up, this is why I love these discussions. This went from, you know, do you put your car
up for the winter to battery maintenance, to bore scoring, to how to prevent bore scoring.
This is great. Ultimately, what I'm getting from you is...
The to-do list doesn't stop and neither does the pressure to keep up with it.
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Bore scoring happens. It doesn't happen as much as people think. It does happen to 997.2s,
it does happen to 991s. And speaking with another Joe from Blackstone Labs, he talked about how
the bore scoring events in the early 997 motors were under 4%. I think it was like 2.8 or 3.8%.
I could believe that, yeah. Yeah. And so while it does happen, it doesn't happen a lot,
or as much as people think. And to your point, Joe, there's a way to check for that. And so
you can take the car to the doctor before you own the patient and figure that out. I will ask you
one more question, and this is super geeky, but this, again, that's what this is about.
There's two ways to check for bore scoring in a motor. You can check from the top by going in
through the spark plug holes, and you use your camera and take a look at the cylinder walls.
Unfortunately, the piston sits at the bottom of the cylinder in that respect, and so therefore
is hiding the bottom part of the cylinder. And so the other way to go is through the bottom of
the motor, and you're going through the sump, and you check the cylinder from the bottom where
I understand, and I might be wrong, that bore scoring starts at the bottom
first in at least the earlier motors. Would you have one way that you like more than another?
Top's the easiest, right? That's an easy get in there with a camera. Hopefully that camera
has like a 90-degree function so that you can get a good, straight-on view to it. It's something
that you can also pair with replacing your spark plugs, ignition coils while you're in there.
So you can kind of like incorporate a bunch of things. But yeah, I would say for true peace of
mind, going through the bottom is going to be the ultimate, hey, I know this thing, top to bottom,
every cylinder is good, because you do get a different wear pattern at the base of the cylinder
than you do towards the top. Okay, got it, got it. And you've just bought yourself or you've bought
the current owner of free oil change at that point. Yeah, yeah, exactly. More or less, with
Driven Oil. With Driven Oil. Awesome, Joe, thank you. This very quick talk that turned into its
own podcast, which is super awesome. Thanks as always for being my guest. I appreciate you,
and I appreciate the audience out there at 11 after 9. You guys are fantastic,
and I appreciate you following along as geeky as we get. I definitely, my whole thing with this
YouTube channel and with the podcast and with everything I try to do is I just want to make
great evergreen content that people can refer to if they're in situations where this information
can be beneficial. And so thank you for being part of that, Joe, as always, and I'm excited to see
you on the next one. Yeah, thanks for having me on. You're listening to this podcast. So I know
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About this episode
Owners who want to keep their Porsches parked mostly in the garage get a reality check: sitting can lead to lubrication issues, tire flat-spotting, and battery problems. The hosts break down why voltage readings can mislead and why amperage matters for starting, plus how cold idling and short trips don’t recharge the battery effectively. They connect cold-start fueling, bore scoring risk, and cylinder-wall “washout” to driving and warm-up habits, then share practical borescope inspection tips.
We think we’re protecting our Porsches by keeping them tucked away, but we might actually be accelerating their demise. In this episode of ElevenAfterNine, I’m joined by Porsche Master Mechanic Joe Finkel from FCP Euro to debunk the myths of "garage queen" ownership.
From the "stasis" trap of battery maintainers to the hidden dangers of winter idling, we break down exactly why these cars need to be exercised—and how to do it without causing catastrophic engine damage.
In this episode, we cover:
The Battery Myth: Why "floating" your battery might be killing the plates.
The "B-Word": Does Bore Scoring actually affect the 997.2 and 991 generations?
Cold Start Danger: Why idling in your driveway is the worst thing you can do for your cylinder walls.
The 194° Rule: The specific temperature you MUST see before driving hard.
The "Secret Sauce": Joe’s specific oil and additive cocktail to keep bore scoring at bay.
