Your Porsche Is Dying In The Garage (And You're Helping It)
About this episode
Owners who want to keep their Porsches parked mostly in the garage get a reality check: sitting can lead to lubrication issues, tire flat-spotting, and battery problems. The hosts break down why voltage readings can mislead and why amperage matters for starting, plus how cold idling and short trips don’t recharge the battery effectively. They connect cold-start fueling, bore scoring risk, and cylinder-wall “washout” to driving and warm-up habits, then share practical borescope inspection tips.
We think we’re protecting our Porsches by keeping them tucked away, but we might actually be accelerating their demise. In this episode of ElevenAfterNine, I’m joined by Porsche Master Mechanic Joe Finkel from FCP Euro to debunk the myths of "garage queen" ownership.
From the "stasis" trap of battery maintainers to the hidden dangers of winter idling, we break down exactly why these cars need to be exercised—and how to do it without causing catastrophic engine damage.
In this episode, we cover:
- The Battery Myth: Why "floating" your battery might be killing the plates.
- The "B-Word": Does Bore Scoring actually affect the 997.2 and 991 generations?
- Cold Start Danger: Why idling in your driveway is the worst thing you can do for your cylinder walls.
- The 194° Rule: The specific temperature you MUST see before driving hard.
- The "Secret Sauce": Joe’s specific oil and additive cocktail to keep bore scoring at bay.
Connect with ElevenAfterNine:
- Main YouTube Channel: youtube.com/@ElevenAfterNine
- Podcast YouTube Channel: youtube.com/@ElevenAfterNinePodcast
- Instagram: @theelevenafternine
- Business & Consulting: ElevenAfterNine.com
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- Spotify: Click Here
Parts & Resources Mentioned:
- FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com (Home of the Lifetime Replacement Guarantee)
- Joe’s Oil Recommendation: Driven DT40 or Amsoil 5W-50 + Liqui Moly MOS2
00:00 – Welcome back to ElevenAfterNine
00:56 – Why Porsches "sit to death"
01:43 – The truth about battery maintainers and amperage
04:12 – The Winter Storage Debate: To start or not to start?
05:34 – How idling "bombs" your catalytic converters
06:15 – Cylinder Washout: How bore scoring starts in the garage
07:15 – The 194° (90°C) "Mash the Throttle" rule
08:29 – Don't "Lug" your engine: Proper hill-climbing technique
09:29 – Bore scoring on 997.2 and 991 engines (The MA01)
11:00 – The "Fingernail Test" vs. The Guitar Pick
14:06 – The 5W-50 "Secret Formula" for high-mileage Porsches
17:42 – Baselining your Porsche: Why trust no one
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
fluids need to be moving
"Like fluids need to be moving. That's how stuff stays lubricated."
Cars rely on fluids to protect moving parts. If a car sits for a long time, those fluids can stop circulating, and that can increase the chance of wear or corrosion.
The host is describing a lubrication principle: many automotive fluids (especially engine oil and transmission fluids) need periodic movement to maintain proper lubrication and reduce the risk of issues from long-term sitting. When fluids circulate, they help keep internal components coated and can reduce corrosion risk.
flat spotted
"That's how stuff stays lubricated. That's how tires don't get flat spotted, right?"
Flat spotting is when tires sit in one position and the rubber gets a little “set” in that shape. After you drive and the tire warms up, it often improves.
Flat spotting is when a tire develops a noticeable “flat” area because it sits under load for too long. The rubber can take a set, and the ride may feel uneven until the tire warms up and reshapes.
vehicle battery
"And then a big one that people don't actually think about too much is the vehicle battery. Your battery does not like sitting."
Car batteries don’t like sitting unused for a long time. Even if you use a charger/maintainer, the battery can still slowly change over time, and it may prefer occasional charge-and-discharge rather than staying “stuck” at one level.
A vehicle battery can degrade when it sits for long periods because it naturally self-discharges and may not reach the ideal charge state. The host also notes that even with a battery maintainer, the battery benefits from some cycling—discharge and recharge—rather than staying indefinitely at a fixed voltage.
battery maintainer
"Even if it's on a battery maintainer, there's, you know, it wants to actually see some sort of drain and some sort of recharge from the alternator. Oh, really?"
A battery maintainer is a charger that keeps a car battery topped up while the car is parked. The host is saying it’s not perfect—batteries may still be happier with some real cycling instead of staying at the same charge level for months.
A battery maintainer is a device that keeps a parked car’s battery charged by supplying a controlled trickle/float charge. The host’s point is that maintainers aren’t the same as real charging from driving: the battery may still prefer some discharge and recharge, and long-term “stasis” can be counterproductive.
alternator
"it wants to actually see some sort of drain and some sort of recharge from the alternator. Oh, really?"
The alternator is what charges the battery while the car is running. The host is saying the battery likes getting recharged by the alternator, not just sitting on a maintainer.
The alternator is the engine-driven generator that powers the car’s electrical system and recharges the battery while you drive. In this discussion, it’s referenced as the source of the “recharge” the battery needs when the car has been sitting.
lead acid battery
"especially if it's a lead acid battery, you'll start to evaporate the fluid inside of the battery."
A lead-acid battery is the typical car battery. It has liquid inside, and if the liquid level gets too low, the battery can’t work as well and may fail when you try to start the car.
A lead-acid battery is the common 12-volt battery type used in many cars. It stores energy using lead plates submerged in battery fluid (electrolyte), and the fluid level matters because it affects how well the plates can conduct electricity.
voltage drops
"It's amazing to me, Joe, like how sensitive more modern Porsches are to voltage drops. Even I have a GMC truck and it was throwing all kinds of crazy codes,"
Voltage drop means the car’s electrical voltage dips too low, usually when you try to start it. Modern cars are sensitive to that dip, so they can throw warning codes or fail to start even if the battery looks okay at rest.
A voltage drop is when the electrical system’s voltage falls below what the car’s electronics expect, often during starting or heavy electrical load. Modern cars—especially Porsche models with lots of sensors and control modules—can behave oddly or throw faults if the voltage dips too far, even if the battery still shows a “reasonable” resting voltage.
12 volt battery
"but it was still showing like 11.8 volts on a 12 volt battery. But you would have thought that I had put in an eight volt battery into it."
Most cars use a 12-volt battery. The important idea is that a battery can show a decent voltage when you measure it, but still not have enough power to crank the engine.
A “12-volt battery” refers to the standard nominal voltage of most car starting batteries. The key point here is that a battery can read around 12.5 volts at rest, but still be unable to deliver enough power under load to crank the engine.
Chevrolet Volt
"...f crazy codes, but it was still showing like 11.8 volts on a 12 volt battery. But you would have thought..."
The Chevrolet Volt is a car that can run on electricity from a plug, but it also has a gasoline engine to help when the battery runs low. It uses a battery and computer-controlled systems to decide when to use electric power versus the engine. Because of that, electrical warnings or codes can be part of the conversation.
The Chevrolet Volt is a plug-in hybrid that uses an electric drive system for everyday driving, with a gasoline engine that can generate electricity when the battery is depleted. It’s frequently mentioned in discussions about advanced electronics and battery management because it relies on software to coordinate charging, power delivery, and engine operation. In a podcast context, it can come up when talking about unusual electrical readings or diagnostic codes.
amperage
"Well, you need amperage. "
Amperage is the battery’s ability to push enough current to crank the engine. Measuring voltage alone can be misleading—what matters is whether the battery can deliver enough power under load.
Amperage (current) is how much electrical power the battery can deliver when the starter motor demands it. A battery can show “good” voltage on a voltmeter but still fail to crank if its amperage output is too low due to internal issues like sulfation, low electrolyte, or damaged plates.
cold cranking amps
"They'll look for cold cranking amps to test the battery versus voltage [381.0s] because the amps are where it's at."
Cold cranking amps (CCA) tells you how strong a car battery is at starting the engine when it’s cold out. In winter, the battery has to work harder, so CCA is a key number for whether the car will start reliably.
Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a battery rating that measures how much current a battery can deliver while the engine is being cranked in cold temperatures. It matters because starting requires a big electrical “push” to spin the starter and crank the engine when everything is harder to move in the cold.
battery tender
"So let me ask you this because when I think about batteries on battery tenders, [386.3s] I think about cars sitting. ... [416.4s] Keep it on a tender."
A battery tender is a device you plug into your car to keep the battery charged while the car is parked. It helps prevent the battery from going dead during long storage periods.
A battery tender is a charger/maintainer that keeps a car’s battery at an appropriate charge level while the car sits. Instead of overcharging, it uses a controlled charging strategy so the battery stays ready for starting after storage.
battery to recover
"And if you start your car, it actually takes 20 minutes of driving for the battery to recover from you starting the car. So really? So yeah, so the person who starts their car up and lets it idle in their garage for 10 minutes or whatever, it's actually not charging that battery."
When you start the car, the battery works hard to crank the engine. After that, it takes some time for the car to put that energy back, so just starting and idling in the garage may not help much.
After you start a car, the starter draws a large current from the battery. The battery then needs time to recharge back to a “healthy” state, which is why short idling or repeated starts can leave it undercharged.
starter
"There's a lot of draw from the starter when you start your car up for the first time. So yeah, 20 minutes of driving to get that battery back to a healthy state."
The starter is what turns the engine over when you first start the car. It uses a lot of battery power, so the battery may need time to recharge after that.
The starter is the electric motor that cranks the engine during ignition. It draws a big electrical load from the battery, which is why the battery may need time (and driving) to recharge afterward.
idling part
"And then we'll talk about the idling part. Letting your car sit there and warm up idling is probably the worst."
The episode argues that long warm-up idling is counterproductive because the engine and emissions systems may not reach their best operating conditions. Instead, it suggests driving long enough to bring systems up while also allowing the battery to recover after starting.
catalytic converters
"Porsche's design model for getting the catalytic converters up to 10 quickly is to actually dump a little bit of extra fuel in on cold start. And that unburnt fuel makes it down into the cats where it then blows up and gets your cats up to 10 super quick."
Catalytic converters are parts in the exhaust that clean up the engine’s fumes. They have to get hot enough to work well, especially right after a cold start.
Catalytic converters (often shortened to “cats”) are emissions devices that reduce harmful exhaust gases. They need to reach operating temperature quickly, and the episode describes a cold-start strategy that helps heat them up faster.
cold start
"Porsche's design model for getting the catalytic converters up to 10 quickly is to actually dump a little bit of extra fuel in on cold start. And that unburnt fuel makes it down into the cats where it then blows up and gets your cats up to 10 super quick."
A cold start is when you start the car before the engine is fully warmed up. Because it’s cold, the car may add extra fuel at first to help the exhaust system heat up and work properly.
A cold start is when the engine is started while it’s still at low temperature, so fuel burns less efficiently at first. The episode explains that Porsche uses extra fuel during cold start to help get the catalytic converters up to temperature quickly.
oil protective layer
"[523.9s] Yeah, you have gas like running down the sides of your cylinder, [526.6s] washing off that oil protective layer. [529.4s] And I would imagine that leads to the bore scoring."
That oil protective layer is the thin coat of oil that helps protect the engine’s moving parts. If it’s missing—like after sitting—it can lead to extra wear when you start the engine.
The oil protective layer is the thin film of engine oil that coats cylinder walls and moving parts to reduce friction and prevent wear. If fuel wash or long storage removes that film, the engine can start with insufficient lubrication, increasing the risk of cylinder wear.
oil pan
"[539.2s] I mean, oil doesn't stay attached to everything forever, right? [543.4s] If it sits long enough, it'll drain down into the oil pan. [546.3s] So now you have, let's say, a completely dry cylinder with no protection layer"
The oil pan is the reservoir at the bottom of the engine that holds engine oil. When a car sits for months, oil can drain from the upper engine surfaces down into the oil pan, leaving less oil film on the cylinder walls at the next start-up.
RPMs
"[574.3s] is let it idle for 30 seconds and then literally get on the road [577.9s] and put a load on it. [580.0s] But keep it under, what would you say, for RPMs? [583.0s] 3,500 RPMs is where the engine goes from low lift to high lift."
RPMs tell you how fast the engine is spinning. Here, the host says around a certain RPM the engine changes how it opens the valves, which affects how it runs and loads.
RPMs (revolutions per minute) are a measure of engine speed. In this discussion, the host ties a specific RPM range to a change in valve lift behavior—meaning the engine’s breathing characteristics shift as RPM increases.
low lift to high lift
"[583.0s] 3,500 RPMs is where the engine goes from low lift to high lift. [588.9s] That's, you could see it on a dyno chart."
This means the engine changes how much the valves open. Small openings help at low speed, and bigger openings help at higher speed, and you can see the change in how the engine performs on a dyno.
“Low lift to high lift” refers to a variable valve lift system changing how far the intake/exhaust valves open. At lower RPMs the engine uses smaller valve opening for efficiency, then switches to higher lift at higher RPMs to improve airflow and power—something that can be shown on a dyno chart.
dyno chart
"If you ever see a dyno chart, you see a nice arc and then it kind of flat spots and then you see the rest of the arc take over."
A dyno chart is a graph from a machine that tests the car’s engine. It shows how much power the engine makes at different RPMs, so you can spot weak spots or where it really pulls.
A dyno chart is a graph from a dynamometer that shows how an engine performs under controlled load. It typically plots power and/or torque versus engine speed (RPM), so you can see where the engine makes power and where it falls flat.
oil temp gauge
"I wouldn't really go into high lift until the oil temp gauge is at dead center. And if you're someone who monitors engine oil by temperature, it's going to be 90C or 194 degrees Fahrenheit."
The oil temp gauge tells you how hot the engine oil is. Cold oil doesn’t protect as well, so the idea is to wait until it warms up before driving harder.
The oil temp gauge measures engine oil temperature, which matters because oil needs heat to flow properly and protect the engine. The advice here is to avoid higher engine loads until the oil reaches a safe operating temperature (around 90°C / 194°F).
washout on the cylinder walls
"So, so really it's, I always wondered about that when it came to what causes the washout on the cylinder walls. Yeah."
“Washout” here means the cylinder walls don’t get the right lubrication during cold starts or gentle driving. That can lead to more wear because the engine isn’t operating at full temperature yet.
“Washout on the cylinder walls” describes how fuel and/or oil can fail to stay properly lubricating the cylinder surfaces during cold operation or low-load running. When the cylinder walls aren’t lubricated correctly, it can increase wear and contribute to oil consumption or other issues.
lugging your engine
"is lugging your engine. So lugging your engine is going to be, you're going up a slight hill and maybe you're in sixth gear and instead of downshifting... you just kind of give it more throttle"
“Lugging” means you’re driving a hill in too high of a gear, so the engine spins too slowly. Rather than shifting down, you press the gas and the engine has to work harder to keep the RPM from dropping.
“Lugging your engine” is when you’re asking the engine to pull a load (like a hill) while it’s running at relatively low RPM for that situation. Instead of downshifting to keep RPM in a healthier range, the driver adds throttle and the engine responds by increasing fuel delivery to maintain RPM and accelerate.
downshifting
"instead of downshifting to get up the hill, you just kind of give it more throttle... ...instead of... trying to push past it to drive through downshift, going to fifth, going to fourth, get the revs up"
Downshifting means choosing a lower gear. It makes the engine rev higher so it can pull the car up the hill more easily.
Downshifting is selecting a lower gear so the engine spins faster (higher RPM). That helps the engine produce more torque at the wheels for climbing, instead of relying on heavy throttle while the engine is lugging.
throttle
"instead of downshifting... you just kind of give it more throttle, right? ...it's going to dump more gas in"
Throttle is how much you ask the engine for power by pressing the gas pedal. More throttle tells the engine to add fuel so it can speed up.
In this context, “throttle” refers to the driver’s request for engine power, which the ECU translates into changes in air intake and fuel delivery. More throttle during lugging increases fuel injection to help the engine accelerate and keep RPM from dropping.
fuel injection strategy
"get yourself out of that fuel injection strategy where it's going to dump more gas in."
Your car’s computer decides how much fuel to spray into the engine. When you’re lugging on a hill, it may add extra fuel to help the engine keep RPM up and get moving again.
A “fuel injection strategy” is the engine computer’s plan for how much fuel to inject and when, based on conditions like throttle position, load, and RPM. When lugging, the ECU may increase fuel delivery (“dump more gas”) to keep RPM from falling and to regain acceleration.
bore score
"Well, then I'm going to go ahead and ask a question ... we're talking about bore score and we're taught in, you know, 996, 997..."
Bore scoring means the inside walls of the engine cylinders get scratched or grooved. If it gets bad enough, the engine can start misfiring because the cylinders aren’t sealing or burning properly.
Bore scoring is damage (scoring/grooves) in the cylinder walls of an engine. On some Porsche flat-six engines, it can progress until it affects combustion, leading to symptoms like misfires.
Porsche 997.2
"996, 997, when Porsche went to 997.2 and they changed the engine architecture to direct fuel injection, DFI... In your world, did you see 997.2s with this issue?"
The Porsche 997.2 is a later version of the 911 with updated engine tech. The key point here is that the guest still found bore scoring on 997.2 engines, even though people expected it to be fixed.
The Porsche 997.2 is the 911 facelift generation where Porsche changed the engine architecture and adopted direct fuel injection (DFI). In this episode, the guest says they have scoped 997.2 engines and found bore scoring severe enough to require major work.
direct fuel injection
"when Porsche went to 997.2 and they changed the engine architecture to direct fuel injection, DFI, everyone thought you were safe..."
Direct fuel injection (DFI) sprays fuel directly into the combustion chamber rather than into the intake port. The episode discusses DFI as an engine architecture change Porsche made for the 997.2, and how some people assumed it would eliminate certain failure modes.
IMS issue
"direct fuel injection, DFI, everyone thought you were safe because you didn't have the IMS issue anymore..."
The IMS issue is a known Porsche problem tied to a bearing in the engine’s intermediate shaft area. In this episode, it’s mentioned because people thought newer engines fixed it—then bore scoring still showed up.
The IMS issue refers to failures involving the Intermediate Shaft (IMS) bearing in certain Porsche flat-six engines. It became a well-known concern among 911 owners, and the episode notes that people expected later engine changes to remove that risk.
MA-01 engine
"So that's going to put you at the MA-01 engine. Definitely saw it, definitely replaced engine at the dealership for it..."
“MA-01” is a code Porsche uses to label a specific engine version. The point is that the bore scoring they found was tied to that particular engine variant.
“MA-01” is an internal engine designation used to identify a specific Porsche engine variant. In this episode, the guest says the scoped 997.2s correspond to the MA-01 engine, tying bore scoring to a particular engine build.
misfire
"bore scoring happens well down the road, 80, 90,000 miles when it starts to actually become a problem where you'll see a misfire."
A misfire is when one or more cylinders don’t burn fuel correctly. The guest is saying bore scoring can eventually cause misfires because the cylinder isn’t working right.
A misfire is when an engine cylinder fails to ignite the air-fuel mixture properly. The episode connects misfires to advanced bore scoring, where cylinder wall damage can disrupt combustion.
bore scope
"had a hard misfire, put a bore scope down the cylinder and it looked as worse as you can imagine..."
A bore scope is a tiny camera that lets you look inside the engine’s cylinders. In this story, it’s how they checked the cylinder walls and saw the damage.
A bore scope is a small inspection camera used to look inside an engine cylinder through the spark plug or injector opening. Here it’s used to confirm bore scoring and visualize cylinder wall damage before deciding on further teardown.
pull the engine, fully disassemble
"Porsche had us go the extra step where we pull the engine, fully disassemble, and their rule is if you can catch your fingernail on one of those lines..."
This means the shop removes the engine and takes it apart completely to inspect the damage closely. The guest says Porsche’s rule is that if the scoring is bad enough to feel with a fingernail, it’s considered beyond repair without major work.
“Pull the engine, fully disassemble” describes the diagnostic and repair escalation when inspection confirms internal damage. In this episode, Porsche requires full teardown if bore scoring is severe enough to catch a fingernail on the cylinder wall.
Porsche 356
"...n and so un-German. I'm thinking like back in the 356, when they're making panels with wooden hammers a..."
The Porsche 356 is an older Porsche sports car from the early days of the brand. People talk about it because it helped establish what Porsche cars were like—small, sporty, and built for driving. It’s also a common reference when discussing how Porsche made cars back then.
The Porsche 356 is an early Porsche sports car and one of the brand’s foundational models. It’s often discussed because its construction and development reflect the company’s early, hands-on approach to making lightweight, durable performance cars. In a podcast about Porsche culture, it’s a key reference point for how the marque’s identity formed.
bore scoring issue
"Was this a topic of conversation amongst of you guys like, oh my god, these 997.2s, these 991.1s, they haven't escaped the bore scoring issue? ... Do I feel bore scoring's overhyped a little bit?"
“Bore scoring” means the inside walls of the engine cylinders are getting scratched or worn. If that’s happening, it can be a sign the engine isn’t healthy, so buyers should look for it before purchasing.
“Bore scoring” refers to scuffing or wear marks inside an engine’s cylinder bores (the walls the piston rings ride on). It’s a problem worth checking for on certain Porsche 911 engines because it can indicate abnormal wear and may affect compression and oil control.
cylinder five
"so it gets flogged properly. And he has one line down the center of cylinder five, I think it is."
“Cylinder five” means one particular cylinder inside the engine. Mentioning a specific one can hint that the problem isn’t uniform across the whole engine.
“Cylinder five” is a specific cylinder in the engine (the fifth one in the firing order/numbering scheme). Calling out one cylinder suggests uneven wear or localized damage, which can be important when diagnosing issues like bore scoring.
Lickl Mali MLS2
"and ours just happens to be AMSOIL 550 with a can and a half of Lickl Mali MLS2, and it works. That's what you landed on."
This is an additive they put into the engine oil. The goal is to boost lubrication—especially when the car is driven hard on a track.
“Lickl Mali MLS2” is an oil additive they mix into the engine oil. In this discussion, it’s used to raise the oil’s molybdenum content to improve lubrication under track conditions.
AMSOIL 550
"and ours just happens to be AMSOIL 550 with a can and a half of Lickl Mali MLS2, and it works. That's what you landed on."
They’re talking about a specific engine oil they use for track driving. The “50” part is about how thick the oil stays when the engine gets hot.
“AMSOIL 550” refers to an oil viscosity grade used for Porsche track use. The “50” indicates a high-temperature viscosity rating, chosen to stay thick enough under heat and high load.
oil will actually shear down
"Yeah, and the 550 for us was because at the track, oil will actually shear down, so. What does that mean?"
Oil “shear down” means the oil’s viscosity effectively drops after being worked hard, especially at high temperatures and high load. Track driving accelerates this, so a thicker starting grade can end up closer to the manufacturer’s intended viscosity by the end of the session.
5W50
"So, you'll start the weekend at a 5W50, but as the oil starts to break down from higher temperatures, we'll say, higher demand, higher temperatures on that oil at track usage,"
5W50 is a type of engine oil. The first number helps it flow when it’s cold, and the second number helps it stay thick when the engine is hot.
“5W50” is an engine oil viscosity grade: the “5W” relates to cold-start behavior, and the “50” relates to how thick it remains at high operating temperatures. They start the weekend with 5W50 because track heat and stress will reduce viscosity over time.
Porsche recommends 0W40
"Porsche recommends 0W40. That's where it's happiest, and that's just one of the things that we learned."
0W40 is the oil thickness Porsche says is ideal. It’s designed to flow well when cold and still protect the engine when it’s hot.
“0W40” is a viscosity grade Porsche specifies as the oil that works best for the engine in question. The “0W” indicates excellent cold-flow characteristics, while “40” is the high-temperature viscosity Porsche targets.
molybdenum
"And then the MLS2 gets your molybdenum, which is the core ingredient in the MLS2. It gets those values up higher."
Molybdenum is a substance added to oil to help it protect moving parts. They’re saying their additive boosts how much molybdenum is in the oil compared to normal store-bought oil.
Molybdenum is a lubrication additive element used to reduce friction and wear. Here, they say the MLS2 additive increases molybdenum levels in the oil, aiming for much higher parts-per-million than typical off-the-shelf motor oils.
parts per million
"And so, it just turns out that a can and a half of MLS2 puts us right at that 300, 400 parts per million. So, if you have someone that may be a little bit more mundane..."
Parts per million (ppm) means “how much of something is mixed in,” but measured in tiny amounts. Here, they’re talking about getting the oil additives at the right tiny concentration.
“Parts per million” (ppm) is a way to describe very small concentrations of additives mixed into oil. In this context, the hosts are talking about dialing in the additive concentration so the oil performs consistently for wear protection and chemistry.
Driven
"Yeah. So, two things, right? They go hand in hand. Driven has already figured it out. They offer a 5W40..."
Driven is the brand of motor oil being recommended. They’re saying it’s formulated to work well and they’ve seen proof from testing and oil samples.
Driven is the oil brand the hosts are discussing, specifically a 5W40 product they claim matches the right additive chemistry for their test targets. They also mention track-car use and sample-based verification.
5W40
"They offer a 5W40. I believe it's DT540 is what they offer."
5W40 is the oil’s “thickness” rating. It tells you how it flows when it’s cold and how it behaves when the engine is hot.
5W40 is an oil viscosity grade that describes how thick the oil is at cold temperatures (the “5W” part) and at operating temperature (the “40” part). The hosts are recommending a specific 5W40 formulation for track use.
DT540
"They offer a 5W40. I believe it's DT540 is what they offer. I also have a buddy who uses that in his track car."
DT540 is another Driven oil product the hosts mention as the formulation they believe is offered in the 5W40 line. They connect it to track use and oil-sample testing, implying it’s part of the same “additive chemistry” approach.
DT440
"So, DT440 driven motor oil, they've definitely, they figured it out. You don't have to be a mad scientist."
DT440 is a specific type of motor oil. The hosts are saying their tests show it stays consistent and hits the right additive targets.
DT440 is the specific Driven motor oil grade/model the hosts say has the right additive concentration and “doesn’t move” in their testing. They’re presenting it as a proven, repeatable choice rather than something you’d need to custom-mix yourself.
baselining my cars
"I do, I'm a firm believer of baselining my cars. And by that, I mean, if I get a car, I don't quite know the history of its service."
Baselining is like setting a baseline in science: you start with the car in a known condition. Then you can tell what changes later because you know where you started.
Baselining means starting from a known, documented condition so you can measure how changes affect the car over time. In this episode, the host describes refreshing fluids to establish a “ground zero” reference point for monitoring wear and changes.
spark plug holes
"There's two ways to check for bore scoring in a motor. You can check from the top by going in [1479.2s] through the spark plug holes, and you use your camera and take a look at the cylinder walls."
This is a way to look inside an engine cylinder using the opening where the spark plug goes. A small camera can check the cylinder wall for damage without taking the engine apart.
Checking through the spark plug holes is an inspection method where a borescope camera is inserted into the cylinder via the spark plug opening. It lets you visually inspect the cylinder walls for signs of wear like bore scoring without fully disassembling the engine.
sump
"the other way to go is through the bottom of the motor, and you're going through the sump, and you check the cylinder from the bottom"
The sump is the bottom oil reservoir of the engine. It’s where engine oil sits before it’s pumped back up to lubricate everything.
The sump is the lowest part of the engine where oil collects. Accessing the engine “through the sump” typically means getting to internal components from underneath, which can change how you inspect wear patterns and what tools/angles you need.
spark plugs
"It's something that you can also pair with replacing your spark plugs, ignition coils while you're in there."
Spark plugs make the spark that starts combustion in each cylinder. If you’re already taking things apart, replacing them then can save future labor.
Spark plugs are the ignition components that create the spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture in each cylinder. When doing deeper inspection work, replacing spark plugs at the same time can reduce the chance you’ll have to reopen the engine later.
ignition coils
"It's something that you can also pair with replacing your spark plugs, ignition coils while you're in there."
Ignition coils provide the electrical power for the spark plugs. If you’re already working in that area, replacing them can prevent ignition problems later.
Ignition coils generate the high voltage needed to fire the spark plugs. If you’re already accessing the top of the engine, swapping coils can be a “while-you’re-in-there” service to improve ignition consistency.
wear pattern
"because you do get a different wear pattern at the base of the cylinder than you do towards the top."
A wear pattern is where the engine parts wear more in some spots than others. Looking at the whole cylinder helps you spot problems that might only show up at the bottom or the top.
A wear pattern describes how damage or wear varies across a component’s surface. Here, the speaker notes that the base of the cylinder can wear differently than the top, which is why inspecting “top to bottom” can reveal issues like bore scoring earlier.
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