#2656: Remote Nonstarter
About this episode
A caller’s “remote nonstarter” turns into a deep dive on why cars won’t power up: intermittent starting tied to seat/dash behavior, and a broader theory of a loose chassis ground breaking the electrical return path. The hosts also tackle other no-start and drivability headaches—like power steering fluid loss from air in the system and rough automatic upshifts potentially caused by low transmission fluid or a small cooler-line leak. Along the way, there’s plenty of banter, safety warnings, and DIY oil-change chaos.
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91 Lexus LS 400
"[455.9s] I have a 91 Lexus LS 400. Yeah. And it has 116,000 miles on it. Good. And I have a problem with my [468.2s] power steering fluid. It keeps disappearing? It needs power steering fluid like every three days."
A 1991 Lexus LS 400 is a luxury car. Here, the problem is with the power steering—it's losing fluid and the steering system acts up unless the fluid level is topped off.
The Lexus LS 400 (from 1991, as referenced here) is a luxury sedan known for its smooth, refined ride and reputation for durability. In this segment, the host focuses on a specific ownership issue: the car’s power steering system losing fluid and behaving poorly unless the reservoir is filled to the top.
reservoir
"[475.3s] And I'll check the reservoir. Thank you. And there's power steering fluid in there. [482.5s] But unless there's power steering fluid all the way up to the top, it does not like me."
The reservoir is the container that stores power steering fluid. If the level is too low, the pump can pull in air, and then the steering system won’t work smoothly.
A power steering reservoir is the tank that holds the fluid and provides a supply for the hydraulic pump. The fluid level matters because if it isn’t topped up, the pump can draw in air, which then leads to noise and inconsistent steering assist.
air
"[487.8s] Yes. And it makes noise. Yes. And it goes, oh, right. Because people look at me funny. [493.3s] You have power steering fluid in there, but it's all full of air. And that's why it looks like it's [499.2s] enough."
Air in the power steering system can cause the steering to feel noisy or weak. Even if the reservoir has fluid, air bubbles can prevent the system from working the way it should.
In a hydraulic power steering system, air bubbles can get mixed into the fluid. That trapped air compresses instead of transmitting force, so the pump can’t build the pressure needed for smooth steering assist—often causing noise and requiring the reservoir to be filled correctly.
pump
"[499.2s] enough. But in fact, it isn't because most of that is air. Really? Yeah. It's a pump, [505.3s] basically, that thing, that thing that you're pouring. Well, the reservoir in this car is"
The pump is what moves and pressurizes the power steering fluid. If it sucks in air, the steering system can act up and make noise even if there’s some fluid in the tank.
The power steering pump is the component that pressurizes the hydraulic fluid so it can assist steering. If the pump is ingesting air (because the reservoir isn’t properly filled), it can’t generate stable pressure, which contributes to noise and poor steering feel.
power steering hose
"If you're lucky and you've led a good submissive life, you will need something like a power steering hose. There are many places where this thing can leak."
Power steering uses fluid to help turn the wheel. A power steering hose is one of the tubes that carries that fluid—if it leaks, the steering can feel wrong and the system can make noise.
A power steering hose is a high-pressure hydraulic line that carries power steering fluid between the pump and the steering gear. If it cracks or loosens, air can enter the system and fluid can leak, which causes noisy or inconsistent steering.
front seal
"It can leak from the pump out of the front seal. It can leak from any of the hoses that go or come from the rack"
A front seal is a sealing surface near the front of a component (here, the power steering pump) that prevents fluid from escaping. If the seal fails, power steering fluid can leak and the system may also draw in air, leading to poor steering feel.
rack and pinion
"and pinion. Or worst of all, it can leak from the rack and pinion itself. I'm going to guess from my vast experience of these cars that you're going to need a rack and pinion."
Rack and pinion is the main steering mechanism that turns the wheel into sideways movement. If it leaks, the power steering can lose fluid and start behaving badly.
Rack and pinion is a steering gear that converts the steering wheel’s rotation into left-right motion. In a hydraulic power steering setup, leaks can occur around the rack, pinion, hoses, or seals, and those leaks can let air into the system.
power steering fluid
"Put some power steering fluid in it beforehand. Oh, man. I think you should write to Randy Cohen, the ethicist of the New York Times Sunday magazine,"
Power steering fluid is the special liquid that helps your steering work smoothly. If it leaks or gets contaminated with air, the steering can feel stiff or start acting up.
Power steering fluid is the hydraulic fluid used by the power steering system to reduce the effort needed to turn the wheels. It must stay sealed in the system—if air gets in or fluid leaks out, steering can feel heavy or noisy.
automatic
"Well, I have a 91 Zuzu trooper. It's an automatic and as it builds up to shift into the next gear, it makes a noise, kind of a growling noise, kind of goes like that."
“Automatic” means the car changes gears by itself. Instead of you using a clutch and gear lever, the transmission uses its own controls to shift.
An automatic transmission shifts gears by using hydraulic pressure and control electronics rather than a driver-operated clutch. In this case, the host is focusing on what happens as the transmission tries to upshift into the next gear.
RPMs
"Sort of feels like it's building up, you know, to shift. Like you can hear the RPMs of the engine increasing, then all of a sudden it goes boom and it shifts into the next gear, right when it makes that noise."
RPMs tell you how fast the engine is spinning. If the RPMs climb and then the car suddenly shifts, it can point to a problem with how the automatic transmission is timing the gear change.
RPMs (revolutions per minute) measure how fast the engine is spinning. The caller says they can hear the RPMs increasing before a “boom” and then the shift, which suggests the transmission may be delaying engagement or not applying the shift smoothly.
upshift
"Yeah. And how long has this been going on? Oh, six months. Oh."
An upshift is when the automatic transmission goes into a higher gear. If it happens roughly or with a loud noise, something may be wrong inside the transmission or with fluid level/condition.
An upshift is the gear change from a lower gear to a higher gear in an automatic transmission. Harsh or noisy upshifts often indicate issues like low fluid, worn internal components, or incorrect shift timing.
miles
"[739.8s] All right. How many miles on this thing? [741.6s] Hundred and something thousand. 94. [745.0s] And what kind of driving has that been?"
Miles are how far the car has been driven. More miles usually means more wear, but maintenance history matters a lot too.
Mileage is the total distance a vehicle has been driven, often used as a rough indicator of wear and how likely age-related issues are. Higher mileage can increase the odds of expensive failures, but it doesn’t guarantee anything by itself.
transmission
"[757.7s] It's more likely that the transmission's dead. [762.4s] Well, because in the city, it has to shift more times. [765.6s] Right. Right. [766.6s] Whereas when you're on the highway, you get into high and that's it for an hour, two hours."
The transmission is what changes gears in your car so it can drive smoothly at different speeds. City driving usually makes it shift more frequently than highway driving.
The transmission is the drivetrain component that changes gear ratios so the engine can deliver the right amount of power for different speeds. The hosts are discussing how city driving can stress it more because it shifts more often than steady highway driving.
hose clamp
"[778.9s] Hopefully you're going to find that it's low and you have a small leak in the transmission cooler [782.7s] line and a 25 cent hose clamp is going to fix that and all will be right with the world."
A hose clamp is like a small metal belt that squeezes a hose tight so it doesn’t leak. Here, they’re saying a cheap clamp might stop a minor leak.
A hose clamp is a metal band that tightens around a hose to seal it and prevent fluid leaks. In this context, a clamp is being suggested as a low-cost fix for a small leak at a transmission cooler line connection.
drain plug gasket
"Well, I'm assuming he's changing the oil or some such thing. And in fact, that's what he was doing. But in changing the oil, he left out the drain plug gasket."
When you change the oil, there’s a plug at the bottom of the oil pan. A gasket is a thin seal that helps stop oil from leaking around that plug.
A drain plug gasket is the sealing washer between the oil pan and the oil drain plug. Its job is to prevent oil from leaking at the drain point after an oil change.
oil pan
"And in fact, that's what he was doing. But in changing the oil, he left out the drain plug gasket. There was a little gasket that goes between the drain plug and the pan."
The oil pan is the part under the engine that holds the engine oil. When you drain the oil, it comes out through a plug in this pan.
The oil pan is the reservoir at the bottom of the engine that holds the engine oil. The drain plug and its gasket are mounted here, so it’s where oil drains from during service.
motor oil
"So he goes into the house, hooks the vacuum cleaner hose up to the place where you pour the motor oil in, turns the vacuum cleaner on,"
Motor oil is the fluid that lubricates the engine so metal parts don’t grind against each other. During an oil change, you remove the old motor oil and put in new oil.
Motor oil is the lubricant that circulates through an engine to reduce friction and carry heat away from moving parts. In an oil change, it’s the fluid being drained and refilled.
crankcase
"and draws a vacuum on the entire crankcase. Oh, my God."
In an engine, the crankcase is the bottom part where the crankshaft sits and where oil collects. When you hear people talk about “engine oil,” it’s usually sitting in this area.
The crankcase is the lower housing of an engine that contains the crankshaft and the oil sump. It’s where engine oil collects before being pumped through the lubrication system.
vacuum cleaner connection
"Well, I suppose theoretically this is possible, but it would require, of course, that the vacuum cleaner connection fit perfectly into the hole."
They’re talking about using a regular vacuum cleaner hose to pull on the engine area. That’s not a proper tool for oil service, and if it doesn’t seal well you can still make a mess or cause problems.
This refers to using a household vacuum cleaner as a makeshift tool to create suction for an engine-oil-related procedure. In practice, it’s a risky improvisation because it can fail to seal properly and can introduce contamination or cause spills.
remote starter
"What Gladys is talking about, if other people may not know, [1302.1s] is a remote starter. [1303.6s] You can attach this device on all the accoutrements."
A remote starter is a device that lets you start your car without getting in. In winter, it helps warm things up so you’re not sitting in a cold car when you arrive.
A remote starter is an aftermarket (or factory) system that lets you start your car from outside the vehicle, usually using a key fob or phone app. It’s commonly used in cold weather so the engine can warm up and cabin comfort features (like heated seats) can be ready by the time you get in.
aftermarket
"I think if you really wanted to have one, [1468.6s] you should go to someone who does nothing but this [1471.5s] or who specializes in it."
Aftermarket just means something added to the car after it was originally made. Here, it’s the remote starter being installed after purchase.
Aftermarket refers to parts or accessories installed after the car leaves the factory, rather than being built in at the factory. In this context, the remote starter is something you add later, so installation quality and compatibility matter.
alarm system
"So I would go probably to a company [1489.0s] that installs alarm systems [1491.9s] and ask if they'll install this thing."
Alarm systems are gadgets that help protect your car from theft. They can detect when someone opens the car or tries to break in and then set off an alarm.
Alarm systems are theft-deterrent electronics that monitor the car (doors, hood, trunk, sometimes motion) and trigger alerts if tampering is detected. Many remote starter installers also handle alarms because both require similar wiring and integration with the vehicle’s security and ignition circuits.
chassis ground
"[1679.5s] I think you have something as simple as a loose chassis ground. [1684.1s] Yeah. [1684.3s] There's a wire that goes between the engine"
Cars use the metal body as part of the electrical circuit. If the connection to that metal “ground” is loose or corroded, the car can act totally dead because electricity can’t complete its path.
A chassis ground is the vehicle’s metal body/chassis used as the electrical return path. Many circuits (lights, wipers, heater, radio, and engine control) rely on a solid ground connection to complete the circuit.
ground path
"[1689.3s] and then eventually to the battery. [1691.2s] And that is the ground path or the return path [1694.0s] for all the electricity that comes out of the battery"
The ground path is the “return route” for electricity back to the battery. If that return route is bad, lots of electrical things won’t work, even if the battery is fine.
The ground path is the route electricity takes back to the battery’s negative terminal. If the ground path is broken or high-resistance, multiple systems can fail at once because the circuits can’t complete.
return path
"[1691.2s] And that is the ground path or the return path [1694.0s] for all the electricity that comes out of the battery [1696.2s] to run your heater, your wipers, your radio,"
A return path is how electricity gets back to the battery to finish the circuit. If the return path is faulty—often due to a bad ground—things like lights and wipers may stop working.
The return path is the electrical route that completes a circuit by carrying current back to the battery. In automotive wiring, a poor return path (often from a bad ground) can cause widespread “no power” symptoms.
little Eddie
"[1702.1s] So if the electricity can't get back. [1703.9s] We call them little Eddie and Eddie Electron."
“Little Eddie” is just a funny name the hosts use for the idea of the electrical “return” that lets the car’s electronics work. If the return path is missing, the car can seem completely dead.
“Little Eddie” is a playful nickname for the electrical ground/return concept being discussed. It’s used to personify how electricity needs a path back to the battery to power systems.
Eddie Electron
"[1702.1s] So if the electricity can't get back. [1703.9s] We call them little Eddie and Eddie Electron."
“Eddie Electron” is a joke name for the electricity/current in the car. The key idea is that electricity has to go out and then come back through the right path, or nothing works.
“Eddie Electron” is a humorous nickname for the electrons/current flow in the car’s electrical system. It reinforces the point that current must complete the circuit through the ground/return path.
bad ground connection
"I would recommend that you take it back to them immediately because if you have a bad ground connection, you can burn things up."
“Ground” is the car’s main electrical return path. If that connection is loose or corroded, the car may not start reliably, and some parts can overheat because the electricity isn’t flowing the way it should.
A ground connection is the electrical path that completes the circuit back to the vehicle’s battery negative. If it’s loose or corroded, the starter/ECU and other modules can get unstable voltage, leading to hard-to-diagnose no-start issues—and in worst cases overheating or damage to wiring and components.
check engine light
"Well, did the check engine light come on? [2198.3s] Yes. [2198.9s] The check engine light is on almost all the time."
That light means your car’s computer noticed something wrong. It doesn’t tell you exactly what’s broken, but it’s a sign you should get it checked.
The check engine light is the dashboard warning that the car’s engine-management system has detected a fault. It can indicate anything from minor issues to problems that affect drivability or emissions.
fuel filter
"you have either a plugged fuel filter or a bad pump, [2238.1s] a bad fuel pump. [2239.4s] But I wouldn't just go ahead and replace that."
The fuel filter is like a strainer for gasoline. If it gets clogged, the engine may not get the right amount of fuel.
A fuel filter traps debris and contaminants before they reach the fuel system. If it becomes clogged, the engine may not get enough fuel pressure or flow, which can trigger drivability issues and warning lights.
scan the thing
"I mean, you should have somebody at least scan the thing [2244.2s] to see if, in fact, the check engine light means anything. [2247.7s] Okay. [2248.2s] I would go there first."
“Scanning” means plugging in a tool that reads the car’s computer messages. It helps a mechanic figure out why the warning light is on.
“Scanning” refers to using an OBD-II diagnostic tool to read trouble codes stored in the car’s computer. Those codes help pinpoint what system is causing the check engine light.
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