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Welcome to the Under the Hood Show podcast.

Thanks very much for listening and don't forget you can subscribe to our YouTube page or follow

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Thanks for listening to the Under the Hood Show podcast.

Here's the show.

This is Under the Hood.

Welcome to the Under the Hood Show.

We are glad to have you with us.

Russ Evans is here to answer your automotive questions.

Thanks for joining us under the hood.

Shannon Nordstrom is not here to answer your automotive questions.

Yeah, I wanted to check.

I mean, I could see that he's not there, but I wanted to, you know, it's a radio show.

So I wanted to hear, make sure he's not here.

He's not.

866-594-4158.

I'm Chris Carter.

That phone number, that I'll be the first one once you get past our call screener and

producer, Doug, then I'll pick up and say, Hey, you're on the end of the hood.

I am the gatekeeper.

He is. He's the gatekeeper.

He's laughing.

866-594-4150.

And with Shannon gone, that means we have one fewer voice.

So and I would say it's not 33% fewer voice.

I would say that I'm like 10 to 20% of the voice on the show.

And you guys are each the other 40, 40 each.

So without him, it's like we have 40% to 50% more space for callers.

So when I'm done talking, next call.

Yeah, just right off.

Let's talk to Lee and Michigan first.

Lee, you're on the end of the hood show.

What can we do for you?

OK, I have a 2003 Buickler Saber.

The light on the dash doesn't go off like it should be.

It says the engine light service light.

And when I I've got information about

disconnecting the negative battery terminal and wait 15 minutes, then attach it.

The light went out, but three days later, it came back on again.

And then sometimes if you drive up to, let's say, 75 miles an hour,

it'll start blinking on and off.

And then if you decrease your speed, she'll go up, she'll stop blinking.

Well, what you got going on there is a car with an OBD2 onboard diagnostic system

to that is capable of diagnosing all the sensors on that engine

and the running condition of it very thoroughly.

So what's happening is when you're driving on the road, the flash indicates

a engine misfire and when you slow down and the misfire is gone away,

it's going to stop flashing, but it's going to stay on.

And on an OBD2 system, there's no way you can ever clear the codes

by disconnecting the battery.

We have computers that we take off our shelves over at Nordstrom's Auto Recycling

that have been on the shelf for five years.

We install them into a car.

And if I read the codes, it'll give me the codes that were in the car.

It came out of that they're still there, but we flash program those with the new

program and it overwrites all that and starts off new.

But the point is that they'll stay.

You can't just clear it by disconnecting the battery any longer.

It's going to come back on.

So what we need to do is plug it in, find out what those codes are and find

out what needs to be done to repair it.

On an O3, the Sabre with a flashing check engine light, that's already giving

me a short diagnostic and telling me we have an engine misfire and things.

It can cause a high RPM misfire like that on the highway on those cars.

One thing that's pretty common is just the fuel filter.

That car still has a fuel filter on the line under the car.

Oh, that's nice, right?

Yeah, that's great.

Not in the tank.

So if you have a partially plugged fuel filter at higher RPM where it needs more

fuel, it's going to bog down and it's going to cause that misfire.

That's, that's one of the things that could be doing that.

It could also have some spark plug wire issues on an older one, but it's, we

see more of them with something like a fuel filter when it's just doing it at

very high RPM on the highway like that.

I would take that car down to if you could either take it to a shop and

have them diagnose it and give you all the info on it and then give you a plan

of what it would cost to repair it.

Or you could start out by taking it to advanced auto parts.

They're one of our partners.

And one of the things that they do is we'll, they'll do a free code scan of

your car and that, that can help you out.

And if you got that code scan, you could even call us back next week and say,

guys, I called you last week.

I got my code scan and advanced auto parts and they told me I had a, this,

this code.

What do you think the things could be that way?

You're a little better armed when you go into a auto repair shop, um, by us

giving you some, some advice there for free of what it could, one of some of

the things it could be and get a few filter, ask them to read the codes and

just get a few filtered.

Yeah, it's, it's time for a fuel filter on that car.

If you don't know when the last time you put one on for sure, right?

Yeah.

Well, I, yeah, I know there was a filter in the gas tank, but I had that

repaid a few months ago.

Okay.

Then that's on the line.

There was enough.

Okay.

If you put one in, it would have been in the line on that car.

So that's, that's a good start.

If it flashed before and after that, that means something a different direction.

Now it still could be fuel.

It could be that the pump is weak, but those can be checked.

I would start first with that engine code.

Find out what it thinks is going on and give us a better direction of what's up.

All right.

This, this is what I got.

I did go to a auto place and they did.

I had them do a can deal.

I've got the information here.

They had a engine, misfire detected.

It was a PO 300.

That's random.

And then there was, right.

And then they had a PO 420.

Oh, the catalyst system, you know, so I didn't know if it'd be a converter,

catalytic converter, but you're going to get that emissions code every time you

have a misfire, it's going to cause that code.

So you, you want to find out what's causing the misfire.

First, it could be a catalytic converter, plugging up from age and maybe a little

oil burning or coolant burning.

Those cars were kind of famous for intake manifolds.

We can, we have a Toyota in our shop today that has a misfire.

It started out at higher RPM.

Now it's in, in mid RPM.

It's an Amelon and it's got a plugged catalytic converter.

So it, that's a plausible item as well.

Now, if I put a converter on there, can I put a after market converter on there?

Or do I have to stay with the company converter?

If it needs a catalytic converter, you find out that's definitely what it needs.

You could go with an aftermarket, but you want to go with a name brand quality

aftermarket one, because some of the aftermarket ones are very cheaply made.

They're made just to get the light off long enough to sell the car, basically.

They're not full of the precious metals like they should be.

They're very, very low on that to save cost.

So you want to get a good, high quality one.

And you don't want to, you don't want to replace that unless you know that's the problem.

You want to know because it's going to be expensive.

Four figures.

No, you're probably going to be somewhere between four hundred and eight hundred

dollars cut on the quality of what you get and who puts it on for you.

Lee, thanks very much for the call.

Good luck.

We appreciate you listening.

We hope we helped you out.

866-594-4150.

That's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.

Let's talk to Brandon.

You're on the end of the hood show, Brandon.

What can we do for you?

Hi, guys.

Thanks for taking my call.

You bet.

Go ahead.

Um, I got a twenty eighteen.

Yep.

Hey, just in the shop here.

I'm going to get to a quieter place.

Okay, good.

Yeah, it's very loud there.

You sound like there's some work going on in the background.

Now he's running up the stairs in a case that he shot by work.

Oh, okay.

You know, jumping into a combine, a combine cab.

Probably our most expensive seating for a call today.

That's an older one.

So it's not, it's not a newer one.

I think we'll get a different one.

That's a little bit newer, but I got a twenty eighteenths of a roof rustrick.

And I got, I got about one hundred and forty two thousand miles on it.

We do like, I got a little E-Pro 12 RK camper that I pull with it.

And like I said, we go up to the black hills, going to bed and stuff, you know, and it seems

like every time when we're going out, you know, the temperature is about 90, 95.

So you're cruising across I-90 at sixty five seventy and my little temperature is always,

you know, around two fifty to sixty.

So I've been wanting to put an engine oil cooler on and I finally did that this year.

And I'm just wondering, so it's like, you know, normally normal temp is two

ten to two twenty, you know, this has a hundred eighty five degree thermostat in it

on the Tamishimoto universal engine oil cooler.

Is that one eighty five?

Is that going to be too low?

Do you think you think I should try to find a higher thermostat to put in that?

You talk about it.

Is it an engine oil thermostat or an engine coolant thermostat?

Yeah, well, the engine oil, it's a thermostatic cooler.

It's a Mishimoto aftermarket universal.

I have a ten row cooler on it.

That's what I was wondering.

So that's the minimum time that it needs to do.

And your should it be yes.

Well, what so how that works is the engine does its normal thing and the oil runs

its normal circuit and it runs through the cooler once it hits that one eighty five.

So you're you're fine.

It's only optimizing that cooler when it gets to that point, when it gets that

yeah, yeah, and I noticed I noticed my CVT temperature.

I also kind of dropped down what I thought was kind of weird and stuff, too.

But I suppose the engine cooler is kind of keeping that CVT all of it down a little bit on all of it.

And it's it's important to keep that down.

Typically, your engine oil temperature is going to run

somewhere along the lines of your engine coolant temperature.

Well, all the vehicles, trucks and stuff, I drive when I'm watching them.

If the engine is running at two hundred, I'm running the oil

temperate two hundred to two ten.

If it's running two twenty, that that oil is going to be two twenty to two thirty.

So but two fifty is really high.

So it's really getting a load.

And a lot of those cars had a towing package with the crew.

And that's yeah, usually, like I said, is when we got the camper and stuff on

and I've been running Amsoil, then, you know, I don't know what your thoughts are.

Amsoil, but I've been running that since forty thousand.

Even before I put the cooler on when I switched to the Amsoil zero or W twenty.

It seems like that even dropped about six, seven degrees.

Just, you know, having that in there, it will when you run a one hundred and forty thousand.

One hundred and forty.

If you run a product for an additive like that, the companies and the partners,

we partner with the have additives that have metal conditioner in them.

That's going to reduce friction.

And when you reduce friction, you're going to reduce heat.

So if you're running an Amsoil product in there, yes, you would run,

you're going to with the additive that's in it, you're going to reduce friction

and reduce heat and that's that that's important on an engine.

If you can drop, you know, even five, ten degrees overall,

that that can be a big difference in a lifeline for an engine.

That hundred eighty five degrees, though, you don't think that's going to be too cool.

That's not going to cause any issue.

No, no, I think two or five to two, two twenty.

No, I think I think it'll be just fine.

That's the minimum temp.

It's going to get hotter than that as you drive it.

That's when it starts to do its.

It's just a minimum piece of business low as it'll let it get.

Because as the engine warms up, it's still going to get hotter.

It's just like a thermostat in an engine.

If you've got a one ninety five thermostat, it's going to keep it at a minimum

of one ninety five and it's going to go up as soon as the engine warms up.

And it's it's always going to be hotter now.

And how long have you been using this thing to tow?

You know,

since probably about twenty twenty nineteen, we bought the camper.

OK, but I don't think you said it has a I have a two inch Ironman lift on it

with the heavy duty suspension and everything and stuff.

And yeah, I got a hundred forty thousand.

We've last year, we made two trips out of the Black Hills with it.

We've gone.

We do a lot of North Memphis camping and stuff.

But I probably got thirty thousand miles pulling in it.

Like I said, it runs.

You don't have the camper on, you know, thirteen to eighty miles to the gallon

and stuff depends on the depends on the wind and stuff.

But it's still better, I guess, than five to six that some of these guys

get with the great big campers and their big trucks.

For sure. There you go, Brandon.

Thanks very much for the call.

I'm that's kind of impressive to me that that cross track's been pulling

that thing for years.

That's not a very heavy camper, but still you're you're getting the job done

and getting better miles per gallon.

That's not too bad.

Eight six six five nine four four one five.

That's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.

Let's talk to Tom.

You're on the end of the hood show.

Tom, what can we do for you?

Yes, I just want to clarify something you guys said to a caller a couple of weeks

ago, I think he was working on the 98 Jeep restoration.

OK, you had talked about doing a thing additive to the oil.

Oh, yeah.

Is is that for all older engines?

I have a 86 Toyota F5 as an engine rebuilt.

And I'm wondering if I should be adding that to mine.

Well, yes, unless the engine has been rebuilt with newer.

Modern hardened parts, what happens is the camshafts are the problems

with the high wear.

They've got such high pressure to them and they're a high wear item.

So if you put it, if they put it in a hardened steel camshaft, then you wouldn't

have that problem, but a lot of them are not.

And the cam is where the things wear out like the Jeep engines.

They would eat the cams up the old Chevy engines and Ford engines.

We'd have cams.

So OK, there's now would they replace the cam on a normal rebuild?

Because this was only done about two years ago.

Your engine rebuilt, maybe three.

Did you have the engine that was in the vehicle rebuilt?

Or did you buy a remanufactured engine?

No. OK, you had to rebuild from the desert.

Then in most cases, they're going to inspect the cam.

And if it looks good, they're going to leave it in there because buying

camshafts for those Toyotas is can be pretty hard.

They're very expensive and they can be hard to find.

There's a lot of stuff that's not made for.

Engines, you can't get certain things.

So they'll say, well, let's replace what's bad and which would be.

I mean, they do pistons and rings and bearings and things, timing components,

but camshafts, they're likely to leave behind.

So when in doubt, put a protectant in those older engines to keep them from wearing.

And let's talk about that.

What the additive you were talking about with the with the Jeep and with this

Toyota, if I'm listening right now and I have an older engine, tell me what

you're talking about quick.

They, they have a, they've taken the zinc and the ZDP out of engine oils as

foreign emissions thing.

It was a government mandated thing years ago.

And when they did that, it caused more friction in these engines because it

provided lubrication.

So if it's not in there, some of the parts can wear out very quickly.

Like within miles, if it's a brand new engine and it's still got old style

camshafts and things with a high pressure non-roller, they'll just

flat-tap it cams, eat them up.

So you buy the zinc additive and you put it in at every oil change and it's

available.

You can pick it up at advanced auto parts and throw it in there with your

oil when you change it.

And it's just little bottle that you buy.

If I'm, if I have a current car and am I just wasting money by editing it by

editing it for me, not going to wreck anything.

No, for me, I use it and that's my choice.

They say you don't have to, and some people even say, don't put it in because

you're going to ruin your catalytic converter.

And for my personal thought on my own vehicle, you can make your own decision.

But for me, if I have an engine that doesn't burn oil, I use like on my newest

vehicle, that's a 21, which is not very new.

I put it in there and it doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes.

I pull the stick out.

It's at exactly where I filled it to.

So you know, that's not, I know it's not burning.

So how is it going to get out of the oil and into my catalytic converter?

If it doesn't burn it.

Now, if you got a car that's burning a lot of oil and you're putting

something in there as an additive, it's going to go in there.

Pollution of that.

Yeah.

And if it's burning that much oil, the additive is not going to do any good.

Anyways, it's already worn out.

Does that help you out there, Tom?

Yes, it does.

I've only done one oil change on it so far.

So I'm not too bad.

Yeah.

Well, thank you for, I thought you're sure that was going to be your answer,

but I'm sure if I had the question that the people had it too.

So I want to have that clarified for us.

We appreciate it.

Sure you go.

Thanks, Tom.

And for our partner, Justice Brothers has a ZDDP additive.

They do.

It's going to be in basically everything.

They've got a metal conditioner additive in all their products that are for oil.

And when we talk about, I want to just quick, I got a minute here.

When we list our partners, when we tell someone to do that, it's because you guys

use it.

Because I use it.

I know it worked.

So now I want to pass it on to you like this gentleman calling us saying,

what do I do?

And there may be other products that are just as good as the one we're suggesting.

Or there may be some really bad ones.

But when we suggest it's not, yeah, exactly.

Because we've done it or we've gone to that store.

We work with that store.

So that's why we do that.

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Welcome back, everybody.

It's time to get back under the hood with our motor medics.

866-594-4150.

That's the number to reach us here at the end of the Hood Show.

Don't forget, if you miss an episode, you can find it wherever you get your

podcast and you can watch the show on our YouTube channel and our Facebook page.

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We should talk to someone at Berkeley One about the proposed classic car laws

that are out there right now and being...

You mean like that one coming up in Minnesota?

Yeah. Where the Berkeley One Classics office is near my house.

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Let's talk to Don in Pennsylvania.

Don, you're on the end of the hood show.

What can we do for you?

Hey, guys, how are you doing today?

Fantastic, Don. What's going on?

This, this is a guy with a million dollar Tahoe.

So I just, I just have to thank Russ for the advice for the manifolds.

I got the doorman manifolds put on.

Everything's great, but there's still one issue.

Every time I hit a bump, the track control alarm comes on and dings.

And so I hit another bump and then it goes back off.

Where would the wiring be at that I should start looking for this at?

We would start with a scanner and see which

part of the system the computer of the ABS thinks has the failure.

And how we're going to do that, it's not going to give you a code typically.

It's probably going to be a data thing where a person will have to ride in the

passenger side while you're driving, you hit the bump, you have the issue.

You look at the data and it says left front, right front, left rear, right rear,

and they're all cruising along at 30 miles an hour.

And let's say the right rear drops to 22 and then comes back again.

That's your wheel. That's the issue.

You've got to find which one is, one of these things just doesn't belong here.

You know, one of these things just isn't the same.

Mm-hmm.

You'll find out I'm looking for a wheel sensor.

I'm thinking one of the wheel sensors or the wiring to that wheel sensor is going

to have a break in it or a failure, tone ring, something that's out.

And it's going to cause a variance in speed at just one of the wheels.

And if that happens, it's going to turn that track light on the ABS.

Something's going to happen.

And the only way to find people read codes and say, I don't have any codes.

What do you think it is?

Well, let's look at the data.

Let's see what's coming in because it thinks it's a normal occurrence.

It thinks one wheel is actually stopping, turning slower than the rest or speeding up.

So that, that is why it gives, gives that indication.

It's not actually the computer doesn't see a broken part like an open

sensor or a shorted sensor.

It sees a variance in it, which would be normal if you're driving down a gravel

road and you hit the brakes and it slides or on ice or something.

That would be a normal occurrence.

So you've got to read that data and find out what's going on.

All right.

I thought maybe it was like something crazy.

Like I'd been tracking down, but it could be simpler than you think.

Okay.

Yep.

A 99 Z71 Chevy.

Uh, I just found one on marketplace.

What's your opinion on those?

Good vehicle or something to, there's something I should look for.

They're pretty good overall.

Um, is that a, an old body style or a new?

Does it have a five three in it or does it have a three 50 in it?

Five three.

Good.

Then, then you're in that new body style, not a, not a bad, um, because

the 1500s would have had the five three.

And if it's a, if it's, if it's moved to that new LS platform, they were pretty

good trucks and 99s, the transmissions were pretty good.

The engines were pretty good.

Do your regular service on them.

Overall, they're usually pretty good.

He said it's four speed automatic.

Yep.

Five three, um, 131,000 miles per 3,800.

I thought the price was a little low.

So I thought there may be some wrong.

Yeah.

That is pretty low for, I would expect to see that probably closer to 10 grand.

If the body's in good shape, you can't, you just can't find

a good used car anymore for a little money.

So I would, I would, if that was here, I'd snap that up myself.

Even with a bad engine, I might be tempted to grab it at 3,800 bucks and put an engine in it.

Well, come to where we have the home of the little league world series and you'll find it.

There you go.

William sport.

I wanted to, there was a time I wanted to go to the little league world series.

Then I, then they all got better than me.

You know what I mean?

There's a time where my skill dropped enough that I don't need to go be shown up by a

bunch of 12 year olds, eight, six, six, five, nine, four, four, one, five.

Oh, that's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.

Let's go to Colorado and talk to Kevin.

You're on the end of the hood show.

Kevin, what can we do for you?

Hey, uh, I'm having a hard time passing the missions on my 2004 Jeep grand

Cherokee, it's got the straight six and, uh, it's funny because I've passed every

test, I just can't seem to pass them all at the same time.

Um, so one test might knock since I another test, my CO is high.

So it's pretty frustrating.

Do you think my K and N air filter has something to do with that?

The fluctuating that can put my stock one back in.

Yeah, I would say if you've got a problem with this, I would do two things that are

very important.

Step one, put the stock air box back on it, at least for the emissions test.

Step two, run CRCs guaranteed to pass emission system cleaner and the G two P

cleaner that makes a world of difference goes in the fuel tank and you want to run

that I, if it were me, I would fill that thing with about Jeep, about three quarters

of a tank of gas, I would put the CRC G two P, the guarantee to pass into that

fuel tank, I would run it down to about a quarter and then I would pull into the

emission station and have it smogged.

Okay, get it good, clean and fresh because if you've got, if you've got a cat, a

converter that's a little dirty, you've got injectors that are a little dirty,

that intakes a little dirty, just a little bit in a vehicle like that can cause it

to, to have high Knox readings and give you all sorts of issues.

So you get it cleaned.

I mean, that's cleanliness on an emissions vehicle is not passing.

That's 90% of all the problems on all of them when they fail.

Right.

Yeah, it changed my oil and it runs good, you know, so I, I don't think that that's

an issue because I mean, it does, it runs awesome.

Probably just a little dirty.

Yeah, I ran the Berryman, the Berryman Kimtool stuff that you guys like.

I ran that through there.

But yeah, I'll try the CRC and you don't think it's my cat because we're

wouldn't, wouldn't they spike a lot higher?

You know, I'm, I'm like right there.

I'm like barely not passing.

Yeah, it's probably just dirty cat.

I mean, the cat is starting to get dirty.

Yeah.

But that the, yeah, as they age, they do weird stuff and it might be that it's just

the next time it needs to be done, it's going to be too, too far back.

You know, I don't know when, when do they stop testing in your state for, for years?

What's the cutoff?

25 years, 30 years, 25.

So yeah, you're getting close.

Kevin, thanks very much for the call.

Good luck.

That is a, when you're, when it's not the same result every time that can be frustrating.

When you, you're not.

Yeah.

It's going to be based on temperature as you drive it, you know, the, the heat

and the ambient temperature outside is going to affect your, your mission system is going

to be a different temperature and it can cause all sorts of weird things and smog tests,

they can be rough because you'll take it into a shop and a lot of them don't even want to

work on it for a smog issue because they're like, well, you have no codes, the fuel trims

are good, it's running good.

Right.

Well, now they have to put a sniffer in the tailpipe, read the emissions and then try to

address what the problem is.

Oh, we have, we have high NOX.

I mean, are we, are we dumping too much fuel in a car?

Are we running it too, a little too lean is a computer bad?

What, what is causing the readings that we have?

Whatever, whatever's higher, whatever's low, it can be tricky.

You know, thankfully we live in a state without that.

So if the fuel trims are good and it runs good and there's no codes, you know, we, we feel

good about it.

866-594-4150, that's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show.

Let's talk to John in Kansas.

You're on the end of the hood show.

John, what can we do for you?

I was wondering if you could kind of give us an update or from your professional perspective,

are we going to see anything happen with the death systems, the legislation,

you know, the EPA requirements is easy question.

Does death go away?

Will that happen?

We talked about this last week in the after show quite a bit, right?

Well, that was in the after show that we did that.

Yeah, why don't you just ask me something easy, like when will all wars in the world end?

Yeah, how's the war going?

Let me sum it up because I don't know anything.

Okay.

So let me just.

Then you know as much as I do.

What I, what we kind of said last week, I tried to be succinct, but you guys were too

deep in the woods on it right now.

No matter today, whatever's been said doesn't affect anything yet or anybody or anybody.

And once it does, it might not affect your vehicle at all.

So make sure you do nothing different right now with your vehicle.

No matter what you hear, don't change what you're doing at all, right?

Right.

More than likely, if there is a change, the first step, step A, step one of the change will be that

vehicles built from that day forward when it's allowed will still use death.

In fact, there, the, the reading of it, the way I read it and interpreted it,

every vehicle will still be required to use death.

New ones, old ones, doesn't matter what it is, but they will all start using

a different sensor.

Instead of reading that stupid death sensor, which fails all the time on these vehicles

and leaves people stranded and cost truckers and people thousands of dollars in lost time,

which is the issue here.

They're going to be reading it off of the oxygen sensor in the, in the exhaust system.

Basically, they're going to just use that to determine is death being injected or not.

They know it is because there's a change in the other sensors in the system,

as soon as you start dropping death in there, it changes it.

So they're going to use that to see if the injector is working.

And if they do that, then the new vehicles will have it.

And step B is to develop a program that will be done by the manufacturers

in order to change how it's reading on the old ones.

It's not a delete.

A lot of people think it's, that it's a delete and it's going away and they're,

they're putting it out there on YouTube is that it is not there.

They're just trying to stop this thing where it shuts the vehicle down and leaves you stranded.

The third thing of this is to attack that computer.

So when it would shut you down quickly and make you park the vehicle,

basically until it was fixed, now it will allow it to go a lot further.

So those are the, those are the three main key points of this.

And hopefully I, I like that one.

They make it work and save you time and money by getting,

being able to get it fixed when it needs to.

And if I have a vehicle that uses DEF or I've had problems with the same,

there's no world where I get away with not just stop adding it and I don't have to do anything.

There's no scenario here where I can just stop buying DEF.

Right. None of, none of these, none of their proposals that were up there

included taking it out of the vehicle.

Or yeah, or, or just not, you know, at best, even if they did all that,

my vehicle would still need to run the way it is now until a modification is right.

And I, I really hope that they, they pass it the way they,

they talked about where they're just reading it differently

and changing the way it shuts your vehicle down to a whole lot longer.

Instead of saying, oh, we're going to shut you down and 50 miles, then 25 and then five.

And no, sorry. No, you've got limp home mode because of the,

because it's, you didn't fix it. I want to see that up higher, like 5,000 miles or.

Does that help you, John? Does that answer your questions or,

or get to the points you were wondering?

It sure does. Would you say the same thing will happen on the ag and construction site?

Oh yeah. Yeah. This is a general bill.

That's really what they, they basically, they tried to squeeze it down to nothing

and it covers a lot of stuff. The problem is right now,

there is so much going on in legislation that is not getting passed.

There's so many other distractions that with bills, boy, I can't believe I'm talking like this,

but with bills, you see, there's usually a lot of stuff stacked together.

And lately, especially with automotive stuff,

I've seen more things put together on one bill.

If it was just all by itself, I think it'd be done by now,

but they're going to, they're going to layer it with other stuff.

And when that happens, it's just going to make it harder to pass,

but it's good for ag. You'll see it with farm bills and stuff.

And I want to be very clear. We'll wrap it up with this very clearly.

We might be wrong. We might be wrong. I mean, all of it.

But we might have read the talk, all of the things we just said, we might have.

Bip.

John, thanks very much for the call.

Thanks a lot, John, for the call. 866-594-4150.

Let's go to Texas and talk to Daniel.

You're on the end of the hood show. Daniel, what can we do for you?

Hey, yeah, I've got a, I love listening to your show.

I learn a lot every time.

I got a stuttered view that it's got the 2.2 liter motor in it.

And the other day I went to start it and just as it, like it started chopping and starting up,

like it normally would, like just as it, just as it started to turn over,

there was like this rattle noise and then it made it sound,

it made the sound like you're driving your bicycle down the road at high speed and you

lose the chain, made that kind of sound and then it just kind of stopped.

And so I'm wondering if I threw my timing chain or something.

And I'm wondering, like, what's the likelihood of that destroying the rest of the engine?

What can I do to check and see if, if it's just a simple thing that's just changing the

timing chain or what, what might it be? Those engines when, when they start to rattle.

Just changing the time that, that, that, that's the time to change it.

When they rattle on startup or when you're running down the road,

if you hear a little bit of rattle, that's the time to get it done.

Because once it breaks or jumps several teeth, it's done.

The cams will turn to a point where the valves are open when the piston comes up

and they'll contact each other, they'll bend those valves

and the engine won't run anymore. The only thing you could do to see if it was even worth,

you know, see if there is a chance, if you're working on this thing yourself at home

and you think you're going to do a timing chain,

take the covers off the front, put the engine on top dead center,

cylinder one on top dead center, turn the cam so that the valves are closed on that cylinder

and then you apply air into the cylinder with an air compressor.

If it holds air and doesn't leak past the valves, that cylinder is good.

And then you can continue to check the rest of the valves

or you could loosen all the cams up, get all the valves to close without

taking the timing chain off because that's a lot of work.

And when all those valves are closed, put air in every cylinder.

And if they're all sealed up, you're good to go with the timing chain.

If you got one that's got air blown by an intake or an exhaust valve with the valve closed,

the head is junk, maybe even a piston, but usually just the valves in the head.

So it could be fixed, but it could also have severe valve damage.

Most of the ones we see like that, the valves are heavily damaged.

And we just put a whole engine in it.

If I put a whole engine in it, is there reprogramming I need to do on anything?

No. I could go to car-part, our partner, and they supply these.

You can select on the internet by location, by price, all that stuff.

Condition, miles, do that.

Find an engine at an auto-recycler near you with a guarantee on it.

And all you have to do is you grab that engine, you grab your engine, you got them side by side.

You're going to take all the electronics off of yours and swap it with the engine you're

putting in because the engine could be the same, but the electronics can be different.

And the wiring harness, all of it.

You swap, motor mounts, air conditioning, power steering, well that was an electric

starter, all that.

Then you drop it in, you're good to go.

You don't have to program anything.

You just swap everything over.

And that engine would probably be more affordable buying a complete good-running engine than it

would be to just try to fix yours.

Oh wow.

Yeah.

Okay.

There you go.

Okay, sounds like something I got to try and do that.

Okay.

Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, it doesn't feel great like thanks for the advice.

I mean, he kind of...

I feel good.

I think we steered him in a direction to save him the most money possible.

He could have gone down that road a long way.

That's like saying, well, I know this is going to be a $15,000 engine replacement,

but we are able to give you a little better deal where it's $15,000 instead of $20,000.

So we gave him the best option and not this car, but there's some vehicles where it is

that much.

And we're like, I know it's still expensive, but we're able to save you 20%.

That's a lot.

866-594-4150.

Let's go to New York and talk to Steve.

You're on the end of the hood show.

Steve, what can we do for you?

Oh, hi.

I have a 97 Chevy half ton pickup.

I got a problem with the brake light coming on and the ABS light, but it doesn't stay on.

It'll come on like 20 miles an hour until about 40.

Then it'll go off.

And I replaced the front sensors.

It might have helped a little bit, but it's still coming on.

Okay.

That was the big thing on those, those front sensors.

They would, they would rust, corrode inside and then they wouldn't read right and they would

kick the light on.

But if your brake, your red brake light and the ABS light is coming on, typically that is an

indication that there's a failure in the ABS pump.

And once that happens, it's a, you can replace it with a complete used pump.

That's usually the best way to do it to save money because they don't sell that as a new

part anymore.

Read the codes as soon after those lights come on as possible.

Even if they're, if it comes on and it does it right now, see if you can pull into an

auto park store, have them read the codes and see if it tells you what it is.

If it comes up with an ABS circuit code for the pump motor, that's a whole unit.

If it comes up with a wheel speed sensor, that'd be great too.

The other thing that can do this, the fluid brake fluid level

sensor that's in the master cylinder.

If the brake fluid switch is bad or that fluid is just a little low, it's going to turn that

light on and then it'll go back off as the fluid kind of flops around in there.

Oh, okay.

So let me ask you a question, Russ.

In Steve's case, let's say he's pulling into a parking lot and the light comes on

and he's got a buddy that has a code reader or he's got a, whatever it is,

the light comes on.

He immediately puts it in park.

Don't turn it off.

That was my next question.

So put it in park, read the codes, and hopefully the time elapsed won't make the codes go away.

If the light's still on, the code's still there.

Okay.

As long as you don't turn that key off.

Okay.

And if he knows it's between, if it's between 20 and 40 consistently, and he knows exactly

when it might be able to just get the code reader in there with the person or whatever

the situation is, or even I would just drop it off and say, Hey, every time between 20 and 40,

it does it and then you would go drive it.

Those are the ones that they come in and they say that and then I drive it and like, yeah,

spend an hour checking.

I can't find it.

They're like, well, it doesn't do it every time.

Yeah, not in summer.

But when it does it, it's always between here and here.

I did Chris, I had one this week came in on Monday and said, Oh, well, yeah, it only does

it when it's above 90.

Then why are you bringing it in now when it's 50?

Planning ahead.

Maybe they're just going to leave it there.

Well, can't you find it?

Wouldn't you bring it back when it's above 90?

That'll do it for this hour of the under the hood show.

And don't forget, you can go to our YouTube channel and watch the show live while we're

doing it and anytime you want on YouTube.

With Russ Evans, this is Shannon Orts from thanking you for tuning into the Nordstroms

under the hood show.

Have a great day and remember PTLA.

The opinions heard on this program based on the many years of experience of Russ and Shannon

are offered for entertainment value only and as a guide to your repair needs.

No claim to repair or cause is given or implied.

Always consult with your own certified technician and follow all safety procedures

before attempting any repair.

To be a part of the show, call 866-594-4150.

Find out more by visiting underthehoodshow.com.

Under the Hood is produced by Prairie House Productions.

All content is the property of Nordstroms Automotive Incorporated and may not be used

without our permission.

Copyright Nordstroms Automotive Inc.

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Lowe's

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CarMax

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replica OEM wheels

OBD2

partially plugged fuel filter

Advanced Auto Parts

catalytic converter

precious metals

engine oil cooler

185-degree thermostat

Mishimoto

engine oil temperature

engine coolant temperature

Amsoil

reduce friction

reduce heat

195 thermostat

Justice Brothers

car-part.com

OEM replica wheels

Redfin

Road Ready Wheels

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BerkeleyClassics.com

ABS

timing chain

top dead center

read the codes

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