Starion Makes The Drive Awesom
About this episode
A Mitsubishi Starion takes center stage as the hosts work through turbo problems, coolant-line changes, and oil-feed troubleshooting before finally getting the car boosting properly. Along the way they compare tire sizes and wheel offsets, sort out lighting and wiper quirks, and talk through rally-style road trips with scenic backroads, Parkfield, and a few roadside repairs. The episode mixes hands-on wrenching with long-drive impressions, from shakedown miles to post-event detailing plans.
OK after a brief hiatus because Brad was absolutely thrashing on the Starion to get it ready for the Driving While Awesome, Camping While Awesome rally. Let's hear about how Brad got there and how it went. Andrew gives a quick Volvo update, progress is progress right? Then we spend the rest of the episode talking about the Starion and the rally. Warning, you'll probably have some FOMO.
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Keep your cars analog and Aim for the Roses!
Ford Bronco
"...ut stay on the bar don't go off the bar with your Bronco 1980 Volvo horns what's right man's coolant he's ..."
The Ford Bronco is a type of SUV that’s meant to handle rough roads and trails. The podcast mentions an older Bronco from around 1980, which is a classic model. It’s often talked about because it’s known for being tough and capable off-road.
The Ford Bronco is a rugged SUV built for off-road driving, with a focus on capability and durability. It often comes up in conversations about classic American 4x4s, especially older models like the 1980 mentioned in the podcast. People discuss it because it’s a recognizable platform for both restoration and off-road use.
Toyota Camry
"... a Nigerian oil print I also wish you drove a tan Camry anyways that's a very horrible podcast content ve..."
The Toyota Camry is a regular everyday car (a sedan) that many people use for commuting and errands. It’s known for being practical and generally dependable. The podcast just mentions it as a car someone wished they drove.
The Toyota Camry is a mid-size sedan known for practical everyday driving and long-term ownership. It’s frequently discussed because it’s common, easy to live with, and tends to be a go-to choice for reliability-focused buyers. The podcast references a Camry in the context of general conversation rather than a specific mechanical topic.
JB weld product called tank weld
"there was like a couple tiny pinholes that got missed so you know it was kind enough to use is it like quick steel tank patch or something it's a JB weld product called tank weld it's literally for this exact purpose"
They used a special glue/epoxy called “Tank Weld” to seal tiny holes in a tank. It’s meant for exactly this kind of leak repair so the car can be driven safely.
“Tank Weld” is a JB Weld–branded epoxy/repair product made for sealing leaks in tanks. In this context, it’s used to patch small pinholes after the tank was repaired, so the fuel/fluids can stay contained.
low beams
"fixed it I've got working horn that wire was disconnected probably interrupted for the horns or some other button I don't know it was disconnected from the steering wheel the horn button for whatever reason got working headlights low beams kind of funky well I'll see how it goes because where I was we're playing with something else and like I turn the ignition on and the low beams came on very dim"
Low beams are the headlights you use for regular driving at night. They were acting weird—dimly turning on—so the host suspected an electrical wiring/connectors problem.
Low beams are the headlight bulbs/beam pattern used for normal night driving without blinding oncoming traffic. The speaker describes a dim/odd behavior when the ignition is turned on, then improving after moving wires—suggesting an electrical connection or feedback issue.
brake light switch
"so that's gonna be like a diagnosis as it happens again and the diagnosis the brake light switch is bad so that's why the brake lights didn't work so I've got working brake lights down put a new switch in it"
The brake light switch is what tells your brake lights to turn on when you press the brake pedal. If it’s bad, the brake lights stay off, so swapping it restores normal operation.
A brake light switch is the sensor on the brake pedal that tells the car’s electrical system to turn the brake lights on. If it fails, the brake lights won’t illuminate even when the pedal is pressed, which is why replacing it can be the fix.
diagnosis as it happens
"so that's gonna be like a diagnosis as it happens again and the diagnosis the brake light switch is bad"
They’re troubleshooting the problem live: try something, watch what changes, and narrow down what’s causing it. This is especially useful when the issue comes and goes.
“Diagnosis as it happens” refers to troubleshooting in real time—testing a symptom, making a small change (like moving wires), and observing whether the fault appears or disappears. It’s a common approach for intermittent electrical issues.
continuity
"yeah yeah that was after we went through like the basics of like made sure the bulbs worked made sure there's continuity in the wires and then there was no continuity across the switch so that made sense"
Continuity is a quick electrical check to see if current can flow through a wire or switch. If there’s no continuity, it usually means the connection is broken or the switch isn’t working.
In automotive electrical troubleshooting, continuity means there’s an unbroken electrical path between two points. If there’s no continuity across a switch, the switch won’t complete the circuit and the related component won’t work.
tachometer
"I moved the tachometer because we had it under the hood is now on the dash or near the dash I got it kind of rigged up on the steering column"
A tachometer tells you how fast the engine is spinning, usually in RPM. It helps you know when to shift or when the engine is running too high or too low.
A tachometer measures engine RPM (revolutions per minute). Moving it from under the hood to the dash changes how you monitor engine speed while driving, which is especially useful when tuning or troubleshooting.
firewall
"I ran the harness once we were the firewall is already a hole I had a little one was a little grommet things"
The firewall is the wall between the engine area and the inside of the car. Wires often go through it, and a rubber grommet helps protect them.
The firewall is the metal barrier between the engine compartment and the cabin. It’s where wiring and hoses often pass through, typically with grommets to prevent chafing and to maintain a safe seal.
harness
"I ran the harness once we were the firewall is already a hole I had a little one was a little grommet"
A wiring harness is the main bundle of wires that connects everything electrically. Routing it through the firewall with a grommet helps keep the wires safe and prevents damage.
An engine bay wiring harness is the bundled set of wires and connectors that power and signal components. Running the harness through the firewall hole and using grommets helps protect the wires from heat and sharp metal edges.
oil pressure gauge
"I moved the oil pressure gauge into the interior you know it's a electronic one from under the hood because we're looking at what we're running the car"
An oil pressure gauge shows whether the engine is getting enough oil pressure. If it drops too low, it can mean the engine isn’t being lubricated properly.
An oil pressure gauge monitors the engine’s oil pressure to confirm the lubrication system is working. Low or erratic oil pressure can indicate a serious problem, so relocating it to the interior makes it easier to keep an eye on while driving.
grommet
"I ran the harness once we were the firewall is already a hole I had a little one was a little grommet things"
A grommet is a protective rubber ring where wires pass through metal. It helps stop the wire from getting cut or shorting out.
A grommet is a rubber or plastic sleeve used to protect wires or cables where they pass through metal. It prevents the harness from rubbing on sharp edges and reduces the chance of shorts.
auxiliary switch
"what else did I do yeah that's kind of it I gotta run you know there's a auxiliary switch from the fan controller so I could flip the fan on"
An auxiliary switch is an extra switch you add to control something specific. In this case, it lets the driver turn the cooling fan on when needed.
An auxiliary switch is an extra, user-controlled switch added to operate a specific circuit beyond the factory controls. Here it’s tied to the fan controller so the driver can manually flip the fan on.
fan controller
"there's a auxiliary switch from the fan controller so I could flip the fan on I can run that wire in"
A fan controller decides when the radiator fan should run. That helps keep the engine from getting too hot.
A fan controller regulates when and how the cooling fan runs, often based on temperature or manual input. Using a controller helps prevent overheating while avoiding unnecessary fan operation.
voltmeter gauge
"I've got a voltmeter gauge I need to hook up not too worried about that kind of the point"
A voltmeter gauge tells you the car’s electrical voltage. It helps you check if the battery is being charged properly.
A voltmeter gauge measures electrical system voltage, typically battery/charging voltage. It’s commonly used during wiring or troubleshooting to confirm the alternator is charging correctly and to spot voltage drops.
blower motor
"like the blower motors not working I'm not too worried about that because I don't really need heat at the moment"
A blower motor is the fan that moves air through the dashboard vents. If it fails, the heat (and sometimes A/C airflow) won’t work well.
The blower motor is the fan that pushes air through the car’s heater and A/C system. If it’s not working, you may get little to no airflow from the vents, and the cabin can’t warm up effectively.
heater box
"to get to the whole heater box to pull the blower motor out like it doesn't seem like a easy job"
The heater box is the part under the dashboard that routes warm air to the vents. To replace certain HVAC parts, you may have to open up that area.
The heater box is the HVAC housing under the dashboard that contains the heater core, blend doors, and airflow pathways. Accessing it often means significant dash disassembly, because it’s where the airflow is routed to the vents.
195/60
"you will 55 15 maybe it's up there 15 by five and a half I'm kind of thinking 195 60 so 195 60 15"
That number is tire sizing. It tells you how wide the tire is and how tall the sidewall is, which changes how the car drives and how the tire fits.
“195/60” is a tire size shorthand: 195 is the tire width in millimeters, and 60 is the aspect ratio (the sidewall height as a percentage of the width). This sizing affects ride comfort, steering response, and how the tire fits the wheel well.
Versteins
"and maybe something of the Versteins or Versteins Versteins yes that's probably that's probably very good and I can tell you that those tires are very good"
Versteins is the tire brand they’re talking about. Different Versteins tire models can feel very different because the tread and rubber compound change how the tire grips.
Versteins appears to be the tire brand being discussed, and the hosts are comparing different Versteins models (including “vintage looking” tread styles). Tire model choice matters because tread pattern and compound affect grip, noise, and wet/snow performance.
Yokohama
"and then there's a sprint plus which is more like a Yokohama Flava competitor"
Yokohama is a well-known tire maker. When they compare to Yokohama, they’re basically saying the tire feels similar in how it grips and rides.
Yokohama is a major tire brand, and the speaker compares one tire’s character to a Yokohama “Flava competitor” style. That kind of comparison usually refers to tread design and how the tire behaves in real driving.
Volkswagen I
"... yeah yeah and I have Versteins snow tires on the Volkswagen I like them very much so I would definitely conside..."
The Volkswagen ID. Buzz is an electric van, meaning it runs on electricity instead of gasoline. The podcast talks about using snow tires on it and being happy with how they work. That’s important because snow tires help the vehicle grip better in winter.
The Volkswagen ID. Buzz is an electric van built for passenger use, combining a classic van-like shape with modern electric power. The podcast mentions using “Versteins snow tires” on the ID. Buzz and liking them, which highlights real-world winter tire compatibility for an EV. It comes up because tire choice and traction matter a lot for safe winter driving, especially on heavier electric vehicles.
proof of concept
"I was able to pull the car in out of the garage under its own power proof of concept and just kind of like know that the clutch worked and the brakes worked"
A proof of concept is a small test to make sure the fix actually worked. It’s like checking the car runs and brakes/clutch work before going further.
A proof of concept is a quick test to confirm that a repair idea works before doing more work. Here, moving the car under its own power is used to verify key systems (like clutch and brakes) function after fixes.
date codes
"doing a little more digging into this thing the date codes on the tires were like 99 or 2000 they were very old"
Tire date codes are stamped on the tire sidewall and indicate when the tire was manufactured (typically a week/year). Checking them helps estimate how old the tires are, which matters for safety and grip—especially if a car has been sitting.
oil filter
"and then the oil filter I changed was a brand I'd never heard of so my guess is that also shows the timeline of the car"
The oil filter cleans the oil that lubricates the engine. If it’s old or questionable, the engine may not get as clean oil as it should.
An oil filter removes contaminants from engine oil as it circulates through the engine. If the filter is old or of unknown quality, it can reduce filtration effectiveness and contribute to wear over time.
fuel injection seals
"I think I talked about the fuel injection seals leaking oh yes we did cover that yep and covered getting new ones"
These seals are like little rubber gaskets that keep fuel from leaking around the fuel injectors. When they wear out, fuel can seep out and the car may run poorly, so they often get replaced during injector work.
Fuel injection seals are the gaskets/O-rings that seal the connection points around the fuel injectors so fuel doesn’t leak. If they harden or fail, you can get fuel leaks and rough running, and you may need to replace the seals and sometimes pull the injectors for service.
injectors
"you pull the injectors out of the parts car I pulled the injectors out of the parts car because I knew that I had recently gone through them"
Injectors are the parts that spray fuel into the engine in the right amount and at the right time. If they get dirty, the car can run worse, so people sometimes pull them out and clean them.
Fuel injectors are electronically controlled valves that spray pressurized fuel into the engine’s intake system. Cleaning or servicing injectors can restore proper spray pattern and flow, which helps with starting, idle quality, and fuel economy.
parts car
"you pull the injectors out of the parts car I pulled the injectors out of the parts car"
A parts car is another car you keep around mainly to take parts from. It helps you replace worn or missing pieces without buying everything new.
A parts car is a donor vehicle used to harvest usable components for repairs. It’s common in older-car projects when the original part is hard to find or expensive, and it can speed up getting the car back on the road.
zero to 60 miles an hour
"after about two or three miles it seemed to pretty much clear up I was able to run the car from like zero to 60 miles an hour success"
“Zero to 60” means how fast the car gets from stopped to 60 mph. If that number feels slow, it usually means something isn’t working right—like boost from a turbo.
“Zero to 60” is shorthand for how quickly a car accelerates from a standstill to 60 mph. It’s a common way to judge real-world acceleration, especially when comparing whether a car feels properly boosted or underpowered.
boost gauge
"unfortunately I don't think that the boost gauge on the dash reads true boost... it might just be some kind of electronic trickery... still showing as making boost but it felt like it wasn't making boost"
The boost gauge tells you how much extra pressure the turbo is making. If it says you’re getting boost but the car still feels slow, the reading may be misleading or the turbo may not be working properly.
A boost gauge measures manifold pressure relative to atmospheric pressure, indicating how much the turbo is pressurizing the intake. If the gauge reads “true boost” but the car doesn’t feel boosted, it can point to sensor/ECU issues or a turbo that isn’t actually producing effective pressure under load.
electronic trickery
"I don't think that the boost gauge on the dash reads true boost... I think it might just be some kind of electronic trickery yeah yeah so it was still showing as making boost but it felt like it wasn't making boost"
In this context, “electronic trickery” suggests the dash boost indication may be affected by sensors, wiring, or the ECU’s interpretation rather than reflecting real turbo output. That can happen when a sensor is inaccurate or when the system is compensating for a fault.
turbo
"the owner's son who was selling the car said was his dad parked it because it needed a turbo yep... turns out he was very correct the car definitely needed a turbo"
A turbo is a device that helps the engine make more power by pushing extra air in. If the turbo isn’t working, the car may feel weak even if the gauge says it’s boosting.
A turbocharger uses exhaust gas to spin a turbine that forces more air into the engine, which can significantly increase power. When the turbo is failing or not boosting correctly, the car can feel sluggish even if the dash indicates boost.
heat shields
"working on getting that done was a nightmare even in the newer car which has never seen salt there's a bunch of heat shields obviously you have to pull off the exhaust downpipe"
Heat shields are protective metal covers that sit near the exhaust and turbo to keep heat from damaging nearby parts. They usually have to be removed before you can reach the turbo and exhaust hardware.
Heat shields are metal panels mounted near hot exhaust and turbo components to protect surrounding parts and reduce heat soak. When removing a turbo, heat shields often have to come off first because they block access to fasteners and exhaust/turbo connections.
exhaust downpipe
"you have to pull off the exhaust downpipe which is like like the front cat is on this car it comes right off a 90 degree elbow off of the trip back of the turbo"
The downpipe is the pipe that takes exhaust gases from the turbo to the rest of the exhaust. It often gets very hot and can rust or seize, which makes it harder to remove.
The exhaust downpipe is the section of exhaust piping that carries gases from the turbo outlet to the rest of the exhaust system. It commonly connects to the turbo via an elbow and may include catalytic components (like a front cat), so it can be seized from heat and corrosion.
Toyota A90
"exhaust downpipe which is like like the front cat is on this car it comes right off a 90 degree elbow off of the trip back of the turbo that was all kind of frozen and difficult to get off I've actually got it all off I don't think I"
The Toyota Supra is a sports car designed for faster, more exciting driving. The podcast talks about working on the exhaust system near the turbo, where parts can be hard to remove. That’s a common issue when cars have heat cycles and corrosion over time.
The Toyota Supra is a performance sports car known for its strong engine and enthusiast following. In the podcast, the focus is on exhaust work—specifically removing parts near the turbo area and dealing with a frozen or difficult-to-remove section. That kind of detail is often discussed because exhaust and turbo-related components can be challenging to service.
coolant lines
"I realized that it has extra lines running off the sides of it and I follow the lines and that coolant lines now this doesn't make any sense"
Coolant lines are the hoses that carry the engine’s cooling fluid. If a turbo has coolant lines, it means the turbo is cooled not just by oil, but also by coolant to help control heat.
Coolant lines are hoses/pipes that circulate engine coolant to manage temperatures in components that need active cooling. Turbos can be either oil-cooled only or coolant-cooled; the presence of coolant lines indicates the turbo has an additional cooling circuit beyond oil.
intercooled
"I would have to make an assumption that it changed when they became intercooled"
When a turbo compresses air, it heats it up. An intercooler cools that air before it goes into the engine, which can help the engine make more power and run more safely.
“Intercooled” means the car uses an intercooler to cool the compressed air coming out of the turbo before it enters the engine. Cooler intake air is denser, which helps power and can reduce the risk of knock.
clutch fan
"because those also are when it went from being a clutch fan to electric fans"
A clutch fan doesn’t spin at full speed all the time. It “grips” harder when the engine is hot so it can cool things down without wasting energy when it’s not needed.
A clutch fan is a cooling fan that uses a viscous or mechanical clutch to control how strongly the fan spins. It typically engages harder when the engine needs more cooling, helping reduce drag compared with a fan that runs at full speed all the time.
electric fans
"to electric fans yep so that's my assumption"
Electric fans are radiator fans that run using the car’s electricity. The car turns them on when it senses the engine needs cooling.
Electric fans are radiator cooling fans powered by the car’s electrical system, controlled by sensors and the engine computer. They can be more efficient and easier to package than mechanical fans, but they depend on proper wiring, relays, and fan control logic.
heater core
"heater core it involved changing all the crossover lines it involved changing the crossover tube the hard line inside of the engine changing that crossover tube"
A heater core is like a tiny radiator that uses hot engine coolant to warm the air inside the car. If it goes bad, the car may not heat well and you can get leaks or smells.
The heater core is a small radiator inside the dashboard that uses engine coolant to produce cabin heat. When it leaks or fails, coolant can get into the cabin and the HVAC system may stop heating properly.
crossover lines
"heater core it involved changing all the crossover lines it involved changing the crossover tube the hard line inside of the engine changing that crossover tube"
Crossover lines are coolant hoses/pipes that move coolant between parts of the engine’s cooling system. If you’re replacing something in that circuit, you often have to replace or reroute the lines too.
Crossover lines are coolant plumbing sections that route fluid between different engine or cooling-system components. In many setups, they connect areas that need the same coolant flow, so replacing them can be necessary when a related part (like the heater core) is serviced.
crossover tube
"the crossover tube the hard line inside of the engine changing that crossover tube on a side of the engine required actually removing the entire exhaust manifold"
A crossover tube is a specific exhaust/turbo plumbing piece that routes exhaust gases between components—commonly between the exhaust manifold and turbo hardware. Because it’s positioned near the engine and exhaust ports, access can require removing nearby exhaust parts.
exhaust manifold
"tube on a side of the engine required actually removing the entire exhaust manifold which now became a whole another nightmare"
The exhaust manifold is the part that gathers exhaust from the engine cylinders and sends it down the exhaust system. If something behind it needs to be removed, the manifold may have to come off first.
An exhaust manifold collects exhaust-gas flow from the engine’s cylinders and routes it toward the rest of the exhaust system (often the turbo). If a turbo-related crossover tube or connection is blocked, removing the manifold may be required to access the fasteners.
copper gasket material
"the ones between the four of them that I had between the two cars I had two that were in decent shape and I used some of that copper gasket material that's great painting yeah to kind of like you know restore them up"
Copper gasket material is a malleable sealing sheet used to create or repair gasket surfaces. It can conform to uneven mating surfaces and tolerate high temperatures, which is why it’s sometimes used for exhaust-related sealing when proper gaskets aren’t available.
water neck
"the other thing I took off the car was the water neck because the one for the coolant cool turbo the feed line actually comes out of the water neck"
A water neck is a coolant outlet housing that bolts to the engine and provides a connection point for hoses. In turbo applications, the water neck can also determine how coolant feed lines route to turbo cooling lines.
feed line
"the one for the coolant cool turbo the feed line actually comes out of the water neck and the one for the non coolant cool turbo did not have a provision for that feed line"
A feed line is a dedicated hose/pipe that supplies a fluid to a component—here, coolant feeding the turbo cooling circuit. If the receiving part doesn’t have the right provision for the feed line, you may need to swap the mating housing.
coolant hose
"the biggest issue was one of the coolant hoses that went from the crossover pipe to the bottom of the intake manifold ... no matter what I did I could not make hose bend in the way it needed to bend without kinking"
Coolant hoses are the rubber tubes that move the engine’s cooling liquid around the car. If a hose is bent too sharply, it can kink and restrict flow, which can cause overheating.
A coolant hose is a flexible tube that carries engine coolant between components like the water pump, radiator, and (in turbo setups) charge-cooling or turbo-related plumbing. In this segment, the host struggles to route a specific coolant hose shape without kinking so it can maintain proper flow.
crossover pipe
"one of the coolant hoses that went from the crossover pipe to the bottom of the intake manifold ... the reason I had to change the crossover tube was on the passenger side of the car"
A crossover pipe is a connector tube that helps route coolant to the right places on the engine. If the car you’re converting has different plumbing, you may need to swap the crossover pipe so the hoses can connect correctly.
A crossover pipe is a section of tubing that routes coolant (or sometimes other fluids) across the engine bay to connect different cooling passages. Here, the host replaces the crossover tube because the donor/other configuration has different coolant-line provisions on the passenger side.
90 degree elbows
"I eventually went to the part store and I bought two 90 degree elbows and I cobbled together this z-shaped hose with 123 lengths of hose two elbows and like five clamps"
90-degree elbows are plumbing parts that turn a hose’s direction. They help you route coolant lines around obstacles without forcing the hose to bend too sharply.
90 degree elbows are angled fittings used to change the direction of a hose or pipe run without requiring a tight bend in the hose itself. The host uses them to recreate a difficult “Z-shaped” coolant hose route when a formed hose wasn’t available quickly.
formed hose
"what I do replace the turbo in the future I will get that formed hose it is available just not quickly or locally"
A formed hose is a coolant hose that already has the right shape built in. It’s easier to install correctly than trying to bend a generic hose to match the factory routing.
A formed hose is a pre-shaped coolant hose molded to fit a specific routing path, reducing the need for tight bends or improvised routing. The host notes that the formed hose exists but wasn’t available quickly, so they used elbows and clamps as a temporary solution.
water pump
"the feed to either the feed to the heater core and the intake manifold came from the backside of the water pump on the coolant cooled turbo car"
The water pump is what pushes the engine’s coolant through the cooling system. If the coolant lines connect to the pump differently, you may need different hoses or pipes for the conversion.
The water pump is the component that circulates coolant through the engine’s cooling system. In this segment, the host explains that the heater-core feed/return and turbo-related coolant routing come from the backside of the water pump on the “coolant cooled turbo” setup.
oil feed tube
"before I bolt this all together let me make sure that this turbo feed tube is clear so I left it unbolted to the turbo and put a little baggy on the bottom of it to catch the oil"
The oil feed tube is a small line that brings oil to the turbo. The turbo needs that oil to stay lubricated and not overheat.
A turbo oil feed tube is the line that delivers pressurized engine oil to the turbocharger’s internal bearing area. That oil lubricates the rotating center section and also helps carry away heat so the turbo can survive high RPM.
center bearing
"it explains that why the old turbo went bad because there was no oil getting to the center bearing"
The turbo’s center bearing is what holds the turbo shaft in place while it spins. It needs oil to keep everything smooth and cool.
The turbo’s center bearing supports the turbo’s rotating shaft and keeps it properly positioned while it spins. It relies on a continuous oil film to reduce friction and prevent overheating; if oil supply is interrupted, the bearing can fail.
journal bearing
"it's just like crank bearings run-in bearings journal bearing journal bearing that's the word with the word the journal bearing so it needs to have that thin layer of oil in it to make it work"
A journal bearing depends on a thin layer of oil between moving parts. If that oil film isn’t there, the parts can overheat and lock up.
A journal bearing is a bearing design that works by maintaining a thin, pressurized oil film between moving metal surfaces. That oil film prevents direct metal-to-metal contact; without it, friction rises quickly and the bearing can overheat and seize.
idle down after boost
"if you're on boost or the turbo is spinning you have to make sure you shut the car off after letting it idle down for a while to let things come back down to temperature"
After you drive hard, you should let the car idle briefly before shutting it off. That keeps oil moving through the turbo so it can cool down safely.
“Idle down after boost” means letting the engine idle for a short time after driving hard so the turbo slows gradually while oil continues to circulate. This helps prevent the turbo’s oil passages from overheating and forming deposits, and it reduces the chance of oil starvation right after shutdown.
coke up
"otherwise it gets too cool too quick and that oil in those small lines can coke up or become a solid solidified"
“Coke up” means the oil gets overheated and turns into hard gunk. That gunk can clog small oil passages and stop the turbo from getting oil.
“Coke up” refers to oil getting cooked and forming hard carbon-like deposits inside hot oil passages. After shutdown, if the turbo and oil lines cool too quickly, oil can overheat and leave deposits that restrict flow later.
oil starvation
"eventually that's what you know locked up the oil feed line and eventually starved the turbo of oil and if the turbo doesn't have any lubrication just like the engine it's going to die"
Oil starvation means the turbo isn’t getting enough oil. Without oil, the turbo bearings can overheat and lock up.
Oil starvation is when the turbocharger doesn’t receive enough oil flow to lubricate and cool its bearings. With insufficient lubrication, the bearing can overheat, seize, and the turbo may become stuck (as described by the shaft being immovable by hand).
ultrasonic cleaner
"I have that ultrasonic cleaner it's too long to fit in the ultrasonic cleaner so I do like a half at a time"
An ultrasonic cleaner is a machine that cleans parts using vibrations in a cleaning liquid. The vibrations help knock dirt loose from small passages and surfaces.
An ultrasonic cleaner uses high-frequency sound waves in a liquid bath to remove grime from small parts. It’s often used for cleaning fuel, oil, or intake-related components where residue can restrict flow.
150 psi of compressed air
"I put 150 psi of compressed air at it and it just laughed at it"
150 psi is how hard the air is being pushed through. They tried using that pressure to blow out a clog, but it didn’t clear the problem.
150 psi (pounds per square inch) is a high-pressure air setting used to try to clear a blockage. In this context, the speaker is using compressed air to force debris out of a restricted passage, but it didn’t work.
Volkswagen Gti
"...lly my friend Chris, Chris Cavallieri, Angry Bird GTI on the Instagram had come over a couple of times ..."
The Volkswagen Golf is a compact car that’s meant for everyday driving. The podcast mentions a GTI, which is a sportier version of the Golf. It’s brought up because people often share their cars online and talk about modifications.
The Volkswagen Golf is a compact car known for practicality and a strong enthusiast community, especially in performance trims. The podcast references an “Angry Bird GTI” on Instagram, which points to the Golf’s performance variant and how owners share builds and setups. It’s discussed because the Golf platform is widely modified and followed.
boosting
"the car is now boosting you can definitely tell it's driving properly"
Boosting is what happens when the turbo pressurizes the air going into the engine. More pressure usually means the engine makes more power and feels stronger.
Boosting means the turbo is increasing the engine’s intake pressure above atmospheric levels. When boost is working correctly, the car typically feels more responsive and drives “properly,” as the speaker describes.
squealing sound
"I got panicked because I thought the new turbo was bad because it made a squealing sound at a high rpm"
A squealing noise can be a warning sign. It might mean something in or near the turbo isn’t spinning smoothly or isn’t getting the lubrication it needs.
A squealing sound from the turbo area can indicate a problem such as bearing wear, oil starvation, or contact within the turbo assembly. The speaker panicked because the noise appeared at high rpm, then later found a different cause.
adjustment bolt
"car um anybody familiar with early Mitsubishi style alternators knows that there's the adjustment bolt on top and there's this giant like 17 millimeter nut on the bottom"
Some older alternators have a bolt you can adjust. If it’s not tightened right, the belt can slip and start squealing.
On some older alternators, the charging output is set using an adjustment bolt. Loosening it can change belt tension or alternator alignment, which can lead to squealing noises and poor charging.
alternator belt
"I've forgotten to tighten that so squealing at high pitch was actually the alternator belt at higher f it just I thought it was the winding of the turbo"
The alternator belt is what powers the alternator. If it’s loose, it can slip and make a high-pitched squeal.
The alternator belt is the accessory drive belt that spins the alternator. If the belt is loose or worn, it can slip and squeal—especially at higher engine load or RPM.
Porsche 944
"... point because the backup car was going to be the 944 but that still needs to have fueling stuff sorted..."
The Porsche 944 is a sports car made by Porsche. The podcast says it was going to be a backup car, but it still needs work on the fuel system. That means it likely needs parts or adjustments so it can deliver fuel properly.
The Porsche 944 is a sports car from Porsche’s lineup that’s known for its balanced driving feel and classic 1980s-era design. In the podcast, it’s mentioned as a backup project car that still needs fueling-related sorting. That points to a common theme with older cars: getting the fuel system working correctly before expecting reliable operation.
shakedown miles
"decided on Tuesday I needed to put some shakedown miles in the car if I was going to you know make this thing work or not"
Shakedown miles are short test drives before a bigger trip. The goal is to find any problems early—especially if the car hasn’t been driven in a while.
“Shakedown miles” are test drives done before a longer trip or event to catch problems early. It’s especially important after a car has sat for a long time, because small issues (like belt tension, charging, or boost-related problems) can show up quickly under real driving load.
bleeding of the power steering system
"we did the bleeding of the power steering system because that was still causing a little bit of problems um and then went grab dinner"
Power steering fluid can trap air bubbles when you service it. Bleeding is the process of getting that air out so the steering works smoothly and quietly.
“Bleeding” a power steering system means removing trapped air from the hydraulic lines and pump. Air in the system can cause noisy operation and inconsistent steering feel until it’s purged.
fog light bulbs
"I ordered some new fog light bulbs when the fog lights was out and I figured that would take me about 20 minutes"
Fog lights are the smaller lights on the front of the car meant to help in bad weather. The bulbs inside them can burn out, and replacing them restores that extra visibility.
Fog light bulbs are the replaceable light sources in the front fog lamps, typically used for better visibility in rain, fog, or mist. If a fog lamp is out, replacing just the bulb is a common quick fix before larger headlight work.
LEDs
"led technology has come a very long way and you can now run leds in h4 housings"
LEDs are a type of light bulb that uses electronics instead of a heated filament. People upgrade to them because they can be brighter and more efficient, but the headlight design still has to aim the light correctly.
LEDs (light-emitting diodes) are electronic light sources used in modern headlight upgrades. Compared with older halogen bulbs, LEDs can offer faster response and different efficiency, but fitment and optics matter for beam quality.
H4 housings
"led technology has come a very long way and you can now run leds in h4 housings used to be it wouldn't be a good beam pattern"
H4 is a common type of headlight bulb and socket shape. The housing is the part inside the headlight that shapes the light, and the speaker is saying newer LED bulbs can work in that same setup without messing up the light pattern.
H4 refers to a headlight bulb/connector standard that’s commonly used in older European-style lighting. The “housing” is the headlamp reflector/enclosure, and the key point is that modern LED bulbs can be made to fit H4 housings while still producing an acceptable beam pattern.
beam pattern
"you can now run leds in h4 housings used to be it wouldn't be a good beam pattern but the new stuff works really good"
A beam pattern is the way your headlights spread light on the road. A good pattern lights what you need to see while avoiding glare at other drivers.
A beam pattern is how a headlight’s light is distributed across the road—especially the cutoff and aim that prevent blinding oncoming drivers. LED conversions can be tricky because the bulb’s light source shape must match the reflector/projector design to recreate a proper pattern.
Kelvin reading
"not bright white but a natural looking beam pattern and color um whatever the kelvin reading [2134.5s] is I don't remember but it makes it look like a you know an extra an extra bright halogen"
Kelvin is a way to describe how “cool” or “warm” a light color looks. It helps you compare how white vs slightly yellow a headlight will appear.
A Kelvin reading describes the color temperature of a light source. Higher Kelvin values generally look more bluish/white, while lower values look warmer/yellower.
halogen
"it makes it look like a you know an extra an extra bright halogen [2140.3s] put it in everything worked I was great I buttoned the whole thing up you know ... [2238.0s] you know um because I have the housings I'm going to return the bulbs back to Amazon um [2184.4s] but I'll support him anyway because he's a you know small independent ... [2229.2s] please do that I definitely need that so she ran out and she grabbed two just sylvania standard [2238.0s] you know halogen replacement bulbs um they're much brighter than the ones that were in there"
Halogen is the classic style of car headlight bulb. It’s common, bright enough for everyday driving, and usually straightforward to swap out.
Halogen bulbs are a common type of automotive headlight that use a tungsten filament inside a halogen gas-filled envelope. They’re typically less efficient than newer lighting technologies, but they’re widely available and easy to replace.
Sylvania
"the one that on the other side was a you know a generic sylvania from the 90s probably [2217.7s] and that one was pretty faded out so I'm sitting there panicking and I don't have to do ... [2229.2s] please do that I definitely need that so she ran out and she grabbed two just sylvania standard [2238.0s] you know halogen replacement bulbs um they're much brighter than the ones that were in there"
Sylvania is a company that makes car light bulbs. Here they’re talking about using Sylvania replacement bulbs to get brighter lighting quickly.
Sylvania is a well-known lighting brand that makes replacement bulbs for automotive headlight and fog light applications. In this segment, the host compares older Sylvania bulbs to newer replacement bulbs for brightness and appearance.
H4s
"they're much brighter than the ones that were in there [2243.1s] they're not nearly as bright as the e-codes and h4s would be but let things be"
H4 is a specific kind of headlight bulb size/type used in many cars. The host is saying H4 bulbs would be brighter than the temporary replacement they used.
H4 is a common automotive bulb type (a specific electrical/physical standard) used in many headlight applications. When someone says “H4s,” they’re usually referring to using H4 bulbs for better brightness or a different beam output compared with other bulb types.
penetrating fluid
"so we sit there and go it must just be whatever penetrating fluid and old grease and okay hand [2467.0s] grease is on top of these heat shields effort let's just send it now of course i'm not confident in [2475.7s] this diagnostics"
Penetrating fluid is a special spray that works its way into rusty or stuck connections. People use it to help loosen bolts so you can take things apart.
Penetrating fluid is a spray lubricant designed to seep into stuck or corroded fasteners. It’s commonly used to loosen bolts and hardware before removal, especially when parts have rusted together.
diagnostics
"effort let's just send it now of course i'm not confident in [2475.7s] this diagnostics but at that time it's like we're either gonna do it or not right like we don't have"
Diagnostics means figuring out what’s wrong by checking and testing. Here, they’re not sure their checks fully confirm the car is okay.
Diagnostics is the process of troubleshooting a problem by checking symptoms and testing systems to find the cause. In this context, they’re questioning whether their quick checks are enough before driving hard.
vintage pre 2000 rally
"like we don't have [2483.3s] a backup car prepped we've nowhere to get there it's a vintage pre 2000 rally i don't want to show [2497.0s] it we send it and we don't stop until"
A vintage rally is a driving event for older cars. Because the cars are older, problems can be harder to fix on the fly, so preparation matters a lot.
A vintage pre-2000 rally implies an event for older cars, often with less modern electronics and fewer safety/comfort systems. It also tends to mean more mechanical risk, because cars may be less forgiving if something isn’t sorted before the drive.
fuel mileage
"we just drove straight there don't have to [2527.9s] fill up a fuel you want to take a stab at the fuel mileage number now to be fair [2535.1s] i do have i missed a whole thing about tires"
Fuel mileage is how far the car can go on a gallon of gas. It changes with speed, tires, and how hard the engine is working.
Fuel mileage is how efficiently a car uses fuel, usually expressed as miles per gallon (MPG). It depends on driving speed, tire size/rolling resistance, and engine load—so changing tires can shift the real-world MPG.
undersized from factory
"i missed a whole thing about tires tires are slightly undersized from factory [2541.6s] they're about five miles per hour off at 80 miles an hour so the fuel mileage is maybe off a little [2548.7s] bit"
If the tires are smaller than the factory ones, the car can “think” it’s going a different distance than you expect. That can make fuel economy and range estimates come out wrong.
When tires are undersized compared to the factory spec, the car’s speedometer and gearing/rolling behavior can be off. Even if the engine is doing the same work, the effective distance traveled per revolution changes, which can skew MPG and range calculations.
tire size
"they're about five miles per hour off at 80 miles an hour so the fuel mileage is maybe off a little [2548.7s] bit but my calculated range was at a steady [2555.4s] 65 70 ... [2618.1s] and they had 185 65 snow tires on them"
Tire size changes how big the tire is and how it rolls. That can affect the speed reading and how much fuel the car uses.
Tire size (like 185/65) affects rolling diameter, rolling resistance, and how the car’s speed and distance readings line up with reality. That’s why they’re talking about being “five miles per hour off” at 80 mph and how it changes fuel economy/range.
MPG
"we get 25 miles per gallon a little over 25 miles a gallon i mean that's [2574.7s] it's low for me i expected it it's it's well it's what kind of what i expect to [2579.7s] my glant will do that up in the highway out of boost"
MPG means how many miles you can drive on one gallon of gas. Bigger number usually means better fuel economy.
MPG (miles per gallon) is a common way to express fuel economy. Higher MPG means the car goes farther on the same amount of fuel.
out of boost
"my glant will do that up in the highway out of boost so yeah anyway 25 miles per gallon [2587.3s] reasonable gas is expensive right now gas is especially expensive in california right now"
With a turbo, “boost” is the extra push the turbo makes. “Out of boost” means you’re not getting that extra turbo pressure right then, so the engine usually uses less fuel.
“Boost” refers to the extra air pressure a turbocharger creates. “Out of boost” means the turbo isn’t actively producing that pressure, so engine load and fuel use are typically lower than during boost.
offset
"with the factory size tires they rubbed a ton because the factory wheels are like a plus 30 offset or 32 offset and they're a 15 by six and a half and the inkeys are a 15 by seven with a zero offset so with the factory size tires they rub like crazy"
Wheel offset is basically how “in” or “out” the wheel sits on the car. If the wheels sit too far out, the tires can hit the fenders or suspension, causing rubbing.
Wheel offset is how far the wheel’s mounting surface sits from the wheel’s centerline. A more positive offset tucks the wheel inward, while a lower/zero offset pushes it outward—changing tire clearance and often causing rubbing if you keep the factory tire size.
speedometer is off
"so i went down a saw a width to a 205 and ran a 205 55 15 which is why the speedometer is off just a little bit but they look incredibly proper on the car"
If you put different-sized tires on, the tire rotates a different number of times per mile. That can make the speedometer read slightly wrong.
Changing tire size alters the tire’s rolling circumference, which affects how far the car travels per wheel rotation. If the circumference changes, the speedometer can read higher or lower than actual speed, which is why they note the speedometer being off after switching to a different tire width/sidewall height.
Infiniti G20
"...ire you used to run or maybe still do run on your g20 i also have them on the eclipse and i've been pre..."
The Infiniti G20 is a smaller luxury sedan. The podcast talks about tires they used on the G20 and how they also used similar tires on another car. That’s why it comes up—because it’s part of a discussion about what tires work well.
The Infiniti G20 is a compact luxury sedan that was designed to offer a more upscale feel than a typical economy car. The podcast mentions running tires on a G20 and also having them on an Eclipse, which suggests the conversation is about tire choice and fitment. It’s brought up because owners often compare setups across multiple cars.
r-comp
"i didn't want to run some ridiculous r-comp because there was a lot of highway driving to do and also i think that that would be too much for this car it needs to have the ability to have some sort of slip all right just yeah i don't want the car to just be too sticky"
R-comp tires are made for grip, like track-focused tires. They can wear out faster and may feel overly aggressive for everyday or lots of highway driving.
R-comp (short for racing-compound) tires are designed for maximum grip, typically using softer rubber than normal street tires. They can feel “too sticky” for some cars or driving styles, and they often wear faster—so they may not be ideal if you’re doing lots of highway miles.
treadwear
"i don't want the car to just be too sticky those those yokos are 300 treadwear so there's some are only yes they're only 300 treadwear yeah they're good compromise between a uh a super sticky 200 and then like a 600 treadwear tire so i think they have almost 20 000 miles on the ones in the eclipse and they're barely showing any signs of wear"
Treadwear is a number that hints at how quickly a tire will wear out. Softer “grippier” tires usually have lower treadwear, and longer-lasting tires usually have higher treadwear.
Treadwear is a tire rating (often from the UTQG system) that’s used as a rough indicator of how long a tire is expected to last. Lower treadwear numbers generally mean softer, stickier tires with less longevity, while higher numbers tend to last longer but may offer less grip.
track days
"but i don't currently have a set on the g20 because i wore them out doing track days"
“Track days” are events where people drive their cars on a race track. They stress the tires much more than normal driving, so the tires wear out sooner.
Track days are organized events where drivers use a circuit for performance driving. Tires wear faster at track days because of higher sustained loads, repeated hard cornering, and more aggressive braking than typical street driving.
wheels
"now i want to switch the eight spoke style wheels the black racing what knobby style wheels i have back to those yocos"
They’re talking about changing the wheels on the car. Different wheel styles help them run different tires for track days versus everyday driving.
The segment is specifically about wheel styles and swapping setups—moving between track wheels and street-style wheels. Wheel choice affects tire fitment, sidewall appearance, and how easily you can run different tire types (track vs. street).
Eagle Talon
"...ires i have i've been running them since my first talon and my first conquest i used to be uh yocohama av..."
The Eagle Talon is a smaller sporty car. The podcast talks about using tires on their Talon for a long time, which shows it’s a car someone has owned and driven regularly. It’s the kind of car people often keep as a performance-focused project.
The Eagle Talon is a compact performance car that’s known for its sporty driving and enthusiast tuning potential. The podcast mentions running tires on a Talon for a long time and referencing a first Talon and a first “Conquest,” which suggests a personal ownership history. It comes up because these cars are often kept and modified by owners who track their setups over time.
Enkei
"technically there's still a set of those on the old enkeys i had on my first talon in the shed"
Enkei makes wheels. The speaker says they have tires stored that are already mounted on Enkei wheels, which helps them swap setups faster.
Enkei is a wheel brand, and the speaker is saying they still have a set of Yokohama tires mounted on Enkei wheels. That matters because wheel/tire fitment and the wheel’s style can affect both appearance and how the car feels on track.
sputtering
"i pull off the light it's sputtering like crazy through first gear sputtering is a shift into second and then i just matted it and cleared it out okay"
Sputtering means the engine is running unevenly, like it’s misfiring. After a stall and restart, it often points to a fueling or air problem.
Sputtering is rough, intermittent combustion where the engine misfires or runs with an unstable fuel/air mixture. In this context, it follows a stall/restart and is consistent with either excess fuel (flooding/injector issue) or incorrect air metering (like a vacuum leak).
injector is hanging open
"one is that an injector is hanging open and when we come off the highway it flooded itself out and when i restarted it and drive it away there was too much fuel and it was not burning properly"
Fuel injectors are the parts that spray gasoline into the engine. If one gets stuck open, it can dump too much fuel, flooding the engine and making it run rough or die.
An injector is a fuel nozzle controlled by the engine computer (ECU). If an injector “hangs open,” it keeps spraying fuel longer than it should, which can flood the engine and cause rough running or stalling—especially noticeable right after deceleration or restart.
flooded itself out
"one is that an injector is hanging open and when we come off the highway it flooded itself out and when i restarted it and drive it away there was too much fuel and it was not burning properly"
“Flooded” means the engine got too much fuel for it to burn cleanly. That can cause stalling and rough running until the fuel situation gets back under control.
“Flooded” means the engine has too much fuel relative to air, so the mixture can’t ignite correctly. When that happens, the engine may stall and then run poorly until the excess fuel clears.
constant boost level
"or there's just something going on when the car was you know sitting under a constant boost level and then went to vacuum that this may be a vacuum leak somewhere and just confused the ecu and it shut it down"
Boost is extra pressure from a turbo or supercharger that forces more air into the engine. If you go from steady boost to vacuum, the engine’s fueling/air mix changes, and problems like leaks can show up.
Boost is extra air pressure made by a turbocharger or supercharger to increase engine airflow and power. A “constant boost level” suggests the car was under sustained forced-induction load, and then transitioning to vacuum can change fueling and airflow behavior—sometimes exposing leaks or sensor/ECU confusion.
vacuum leak
"and then went to vacuum that this may be a vacuum leak somewhere and just confused the ecu and it shut it down"
A vacuum leak is like an air leak in the engine’s intake system. It can make the engine computer get the wrong information, so the car may run rough or shut down.
A vacuum leak is an unintended air leak in the intake/boost control plumbing that lets unmetered air enter the engine. That can throw off the ECU’s calculations, leading to incorrect fueling and drivability issues like stalling or sputtering after load changes.
throttle body style injection
"but they're two same size injectors and it's a throttle body style injection and it fires the injectors in sequence"
This is an older way of delivering fuel. Instead of spraying fuel at each cylinder, the car injects fuel near the throttle area, which can change how the engine behaves at idle and when you press the gas.
“Throttle body style injection” is a fuel-injection layout where fuel is delivered through injectors mounted near the throttle body rather than at each cylinder. It’s common on older engines and can feel different from later multi-point injection systems in how fuel is metered during transitions like tip-in and idle.
primary and a large secondary
"the later cars use a smaller primary and a large secondary and it just runs on the primary until you get a due high boost and it opens up you know the secondary"
The car uses two levels of fuel delivery. It runs on the smaller injectors most of the time, then switches to bigger ones when you need more power.
This describes a staged fuel-injection strategy: a smaller “primary” injector set handles normal driving, while a larger “secondary” set comes online under higher demand. The goal is to improve efficiency at low load and provide extra fuel when boost/load increases.
coolant temp sensor
"try and put a coolant temp sensor in the car because it's running it's idling super rough when we first started up"
This sensor measures how hot the engine coolant is. If it’s wrong, the computer may add too much or too little fuel, which can make the car idle rough or stumble.
A coolant temperature sensor tells the engine computer how hot the engine coolant is. When it goes bad, the ECU can miscalculate fuel and idle control, causing rough cold starts, unstable idle, and sputtering until the engine warms up.
Mitsubishi Galant
"that's fuel injected these coolant temp sensors just go bad i think you have the same issue right now with the galant you're trying to figure it out"
The Mitsubishi Galant is a Japanese sedan. In this discussion, the host says a bad coolant temperature sensor can make it idle rough and run poorly, especially when it’s cold.
The Mitsubishi Galant is a long-running Japanese sedan, and this episode segment focuses on its fuel-injection behavior and sensor-driven drivability. The host specifically ties rough idle and starting issues to coolant temperature sensor failures on fuel-injected Galants.
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