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About this episode
The Under the Hood Show fields a mix of real-world repair questions and maintenance philosophy. A buyer considers a 2011 Honda Accord with a brief cold-start metallic rattle—likely a timing chain/tensioner issue—plus advice on negotiating and verifying it’s not an exhaust heat shield. Other calls cover cam/lifter wear and oil/ZDDP concerns, whether E15 fuel blend changes cause harmless idle rumble, and a hard-to-diagnose intermittent no-crank/no-start on a 2000 Dakota (wiring/power-ground checks emphasized). The show also touches on sealing small coolant leaks, replacing old valve springs on a 1955 Chevy, and Earth Day/used-parts recycling.
We have the expert advice! Call our show live 866-594-4150 and get help on the live show. Looking to save money on car repairs? Tune in to our latest episode of Under The Hood for practical automotive advice that can help you avoid costly repairs.
You have a car, we have auto repair answers.
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Berkeley One Classics is an insurance company that specializes in collector cars. Collector-car insurance can be different from regular insurance because it’s tailored to how hobby cars are owned and used.
Berkeley One Classics is an insurance provider focused on collector cars. Collector-car insurance often differs from standard auto policies because it can account for agreed value and limited-use driving patterns.
Road Ready Wheels
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Road Ready Wheels makes replica wheels that look like the original factory ones. They’re often cheaper than buying brand-new OEM wheels.
Road Ready Wheels sells replica OEM wheels, meaning wheel designs meant to match original equipment styling. Replica wheels can be a cost-effective way to refresh a car’s look while keeping a factory-like appearance.
replica OEM wheels
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Replica OEM wheels are replacement wheels that are made to look like the factory wheels. Before buying, you want to make sure they physically fit your car correctly.
“Replica OEM wheels” are aftermarket wheels designed to resemble the original factory (OEM) wheel design. They’re commonly used to maintain the car’s stock look, but buyers should verify fitment (bolt pattern, offset, hub bore) and load ratings.
Honda Accord
"We were looking at a 2011 Honda Accord for my daughter. And I noticed during a cold start-up it had kind of a metallic braddle for about two seconds... How many miles are on this said Honda Accord you're looking at? About 94,000."
They’re talking about a 2011 Honda Accord that someone is considering for their daughter. The caller noticed a brief metallic sound when the car first starts cold, and the hosts want to know the mileage to better judge what it could mean.
The hosts are discussing a specific used car: a 2011 Honda Accord. They’re evaluating a reported noise during a cold start and asking about mileage to judge how likely the issue is to be serious.
cold start-up
"And I noticed during a cold start-up it had kind of a metallic braddle for about two seconds and then one away. And I didn't know if that was anything serious."
A cold start-up is when you start the car after it has been sitting. Some sounds can happen briefly at first because the engine oil hasn’t fully warmed up yet, but if the noise continues after the engine warms, it’s more of a concern.
A cold start-up is when the engine is first started after sitting and the oil is still cold and thicker. Noises that happen only for a second or two can be less concerning than noises that persist, because clearances and lubrication conditions change as the engine warms up.
metallic braddle
"And I noticed during a cold start-up it had kind of a metallic braddle for about two seconds and then one away. And I didn't know if that was anything serious."
A “metallic” sound usually means the noise sounds like metal tapping or scraping. The hosts will want to know if it goes away right after the engine starts (which can be less serious) or if it keeps happening once the car is warmed up.
“Metallic” noises during startup often point to something mechanical contacting or moving briefly before normal operation—such as a loose component, a heat-shield vibration, or a momentary lubrication/clearance issue. The key diagnostic detail is whether it disappears quickly (as described) or continues as RPM and temperature stabilize.
timing chain and tensioner
"Perfect time for a worn timing chain and tensioner. And then it quits. Yeah."
Your engine has to “keep time” so the valves open at the correct moments. The timing chain is like a timing belt made of metal, and the tensioner keeps it snug. If the chain gets loose, it can rattle and even mess up the timing enough to break the engine.
The timing chain synchronizes the crankshaft and camshaft so the engine’s valves open at the right time. A tensioner keeps the chain tight; when it wears out, the chain can rattle and eventually jump timing, which can cause severe engine damage.
Honda Crvs
"Very common on these. Here at all the time, Accords, CRVs, a lot of other engines too. GM's will do it."
They’re also talking about the Honda CR-V. The takeaway is the same: if you hear a rattle on first start, it could be the timing chain/tensioner, and you should address it quickly.
The Honda CR-V is called out alongside Accords as another vehicle where timing-chain/tensioner problems are common. That suggests the issue is tied to engine design/maintenance sensitivity rather than a one-off car.
oil maintenance
"But these vehicles, famous for that, that oil maintenance on them is imperative on all engines now. The oil quality is not the quality it used to be."
The hosts emphasize that oil maintenance is critical for these engines, implying that oil quality/intervals directly affect timing-chain and tensioner wear. Modern engines often rely on correct oil viscosity and cleanliness to keep hydraulic components working properly.
oil changes
"You just got to do those oil changes. So the repair for this, if this is the problem, which it probably is, if it was just a loud quick rattle and then it quit after a couple seconds,"
They’re stressing that you need to do regular oil changes. Skipping or delaying them can make engine wear happen faster, which can lead to expensive repairs.
Oil changes are presented as the key preventive maintenance to reduce the risk of timing-chain/tensioner problems. The implication is that stretched intervals or poor-quality oil can accelerate wear and lead to failure.
component kit
"And they make a component kit, which is all of it. The chain, the tensioners, the idlers are the...all of it. Everything under there for the timing set."
A timing-chain component kit typically includes the chain plus related parts like tensioners and idlers, so you replace the whole timing set rather than only one worn piece. Replacing the complete set helps ensure the new chain has correct tension and alignment.
timing jumps
"If you let it go too long and the tensioner fails completely, it can destroy the engine when the timing jumps. So you would want to fix it."
If the timing chain slips, the engine can lose its “schedule” for valve timing. That can cause the valves and pistons to collide, which can ruin the engine.
“Timing jumps” means the camshaft/crankshaft synchronization is lost, usually when the timing chain slackens or the tensioner fails. When that happens, valves can contact pistons, potentially destroying the engine.
cold start rattle
"A lot of times they only make that noise if the car sat for over five or six hours. So you absolutely must if you start the car like first start of the day and sit down the street with binoculars and watch,"
They’re saying the noise might only happen after the car has been sitting. When you start it for the first time that day, oil pressure hasn’t built up yet, so you can hear a rattle.
The hosts describe a pattern where the noise may only appear after the car sits for several hours, which points to oil draining down and the tensioner/chain taking a moment to stabilize. This is why the rattle is often most noticeable at the first start of the day.
remote starting
"So you absolutely must if you start the car like first start of the day and sit down the street with binoculars and watch. Make sure they're not remote starting that car just before you get there and shut it off because it could still be cold."
Remote starting can mask cold-start symptoms by warming the engine and building oil pressure before you hear it. The hosts recommend avoiding that so you can accurately evaluate whether the timing chain/tensioner rattles when cold.
early startup rattles
"But yeah, if you started up on that first start of the day, you'll hear it... If they say no, then you know they're covering it up."
They’re talking about a noise that happens right when you start the car after it’s been sitting. Cold oil doesn’t flow as well at first, so if something is borderline, it can rattle until oil pressure builds up.
The hosts are discussing a symptom that shows up at the first start of the day—often a rattling noise. That pattern can point to an issue that’s worse when the engine oil is cold and hasn’t circulated yet, such as oiling problems or internal wear/looseness.
as is no warranty
"...I'm going to say, look, I understand as is no warranty. But the one thing I'm going to stipulate is if I take this car home and it sits overnight and I start it and it rattles, you're going to you're going to replace these parts."
They’re talking about buying a car “as-is,” meaning the seller won’t cover repairs later. The point is: if the problem shows up right away after it sits, you should require the seller to fix it before you sign.
“As-is, no warranty” describes a purchase where the seller disclaims responsibility for repairs after the sale. The hosts are using this to emphasize the buyer’s leverage: if the known issue appears after an overnight sit, the seller should address it before the deal is finalized.
short trips and cold starts
"...it has seen a lot of short trips, most likely. And there could be... gunk inside that engine."
They’re saying the car may have mostly been driven on short errands. Short trips don’t heat the engine and oil enough, which can lead to dirt and buildup over time.
The hosts imply that a car with relatively low mileage but many years old may have been used for short trips. Short trips prevent the engine and oil from reaching full operating temperature, which can contribute to sludge and deposits that affect cold-start behavior.
oil flow at early startup
"And there could be, there could be a lot of just gunk inside that engine. And that could be affecting oil flow at early startup."
They’re suggesting that dirty oil passages or sludge can slow down oil getting where it needs to go right after you start the engine. That can make the engine sound worse for a short time until everything is lubricated.
They connect early-start rattling to oil flow—specifically how oil circulates at startup. If there’s sludge or “gunk” inside the engine, oil can take longer to reach critical parts, which can increase wear and cause noises until the system fully pressurizes.
gunk inside that engine (sludge)
"...most likely. And there could be, there could be a lot of just gunk inside that engine."
They mean buildup inside the engine from oil that hasn’t been changed often enough or never gets fully hot. That buildup can clog oil pathways and make the engine less protected right after starting.
“Gunk” here likely refers to sludge buildup from old oil, short-trip driving, and incomplete oil warm-up. Sludge can restrict oil passages and reduce lubrication effectiveness, which is why the symptom shows up at cold start.
overhead cam engine
"And it's an overhead cam engine. It should, it should be pretty quiet to start with. But if you're starting to get noise from the top end..."
“Overhead cam” means the engine’s camshaft is up in the head, near the valves. Because of that, noises from the top of the engine can sometimes point to valve-train issues.
An overhead cam (OHC) engine places the camshaft(s) in the cylinder head rather than in the block. This layout can help with precise valve timing and often affects how and where you hear noises from the top end.
top-end noise
"But if you're starting to get noise from the top end, that's not from these chains, which, which is common... But if it's been doing that for a while, there's wear happening when it makes that noise."
Top-end noise means the engine is making sounds from the upper part, near the valves. It can be a sign the valve train isn’t getting lubricated quickly enough or that parts are wearing.
“Top-end noise” refers to sounds coming from the upper portion of the engine—often the valve train area. The segment suggests that noise from the top end may indicate lubrication delays or wear, and that it can become a concern if it persists.
oil system cleaner
"Justice Brothers oil system cleaner. Put that in there before you change the oil, run it about 10 minutes, have the oil changed."
An oil system cleaner is a product you add before changing the oil to help clean out sludge and buildup. It may improve how clean the oil passages are, but it won’t repair worn-out engine parts.
An oil system cleaner is an additive you run through the engine before an oil change to help loosen and dissolve deposits. It’s often used as a “maintenance reset” for engines that may be running dirty, but it can’t fix mechanical wear.
Justice Brothers
"Justice Brothers oil system cleaner. Put that in there before you change the oil, run it about 10 minutes, have the oil changed."
Justice Brothers makes aftermarket engine oil additives. Here they’re recommending it as a cleaner you use right before an oil change.
Justice Brothers is an aftermarket brand known for oil-treatment products marketed for cleaning and reducing deposits. In this segment, it’s presented as a pre–oil-change step to help an older engine stay cleaner.
valve cover
"...maybe pull the valve cover or pull the filler cap off and see what things look like inside... But the real, the real clue would be pulling the valve cover off and see what it looks like."
The valve cover is the cover on top of the engine that protects the valve area. Taking it off can show what’s going on inside, but most people can’t do that as part of a quick inspection.
The valve cover is the housing over the top of the engine that protects the valve train components. Removing it can reveal internal condition (like sludge or wear patterns), though it may not be feasible during a basic inspection.
heat shield
"Um, he, he said he thought it was like a heat shield or something. ... As someone who's had both of these problems and knows nothing, the heat shield sounds worse than the timing chain. ... But the heat shield will continue to make the noise."
A heat shield is a metal cover that keeps other parts from getting too hot. If it’s loose, it can buzz or rattle, and it may keep making noise even when the car is warm.
A heat shield is a thin metal cover used to protect nearby components from exhaust heat. It can rattle as it loosens or expands/contracts with temperature, and the noise often persists even after the engine is warm.
cam and lifters
"It just had the cam and lifters replaced. They're telling me to run the 20 oil. What do you say to that?"
The cam and lifters control the engine’s valve timing. If they wear out, the engine can run poorly or make noise, so the speaker is focusing on oil that helps them last.
Camshafts and lifters work together to open and close engine valves. Wear here is often tied to lubrication quality and oil film strength, so oil viscosity and additives can be discussed as ways to reduce friction and protect these parts.
20 oil
"They're telling me to run the 20 oil. What do you say to that? Yeah, I think that's, I think that's still fine."
“20 oil” is a type of engine oil with a specific thickness rating. Thicker or thinner oil can change how well it protects moving parts like the cam and lifters, especially in cold weather.
“20 oil” refers to an engine oil viscosity grade in the 20-weight range (commonly 0W-20 or 5W-20). Oil viscosity affects how well the oil forms a protective film on high-load components like cams and lifters, especially when temperatures vary.
metal conditioner
"I'm running that, that Justice Brothers heavy duty vehicle because it's got a metal, it's a metal conditioner and it's going to protect those parts. I just get real concerned about, we've had so many problems with cam and lifters…"
A metal conditioner is an additive you mix with the oil to help protect metal parts. The idea is that it reduces friction so parts like the cam and lifters don’t grind against each other as much.
A metal conditioner is an oil additive intended to improve boundary lubrication by forming a protective layer on metal surfaces. In this discussion, it’s presented as a way to reduce friction and help prevent cam and lifter wear when the oil system isn’t protecting as well as expected.
wear issue
"Most of the time it's, it's an oil system. The oil is just not protecting as well as it should. It's a wear issue. We take them apart…"
They’re saying the problem is mostly about parts wearing out over time due to friction. Instead of guessing, they look at the parts to see where the wear is coming from and then try to improve lubrication.
The speaker frames cam and lifter problems as a lubrication-related wear issue rather than a purely mechanical failure. They describe taking components apart to observe where friction and wear originate, then trying to address it with oil choice and additives.
reduce friction
"How do you reduce friction? You put a metal conditioner in it. So I would be very apt to run that…"
“Reduce friction” refers to lowering the rubbing forces between moving engine parts, which helps limit wear. The speaker connects friction reduction to using a metal conditioner/additive that improves protection under high-load conditions.
broken in
"Once it's broken in, you want to make sure everything wears in properly first, like your piston rings and things, but yours is already broken in. Well, he's got new cam and lifters."
“Broken in” means the engine is still in its early stage after new parts are installed. The speaker is saying you want those new parts to seat and wear in correctly first, rather than immediately trying to change how they’re lubricated.
“Broken in” refers to the early operating period after installing new engine components, when surfaces mate and wear-in occurs. The speaker emphasizes that you generally want to let new parts like piston rings and the freshly installed cam and lifters wear in properly before expecting long-term protection strategies to take full effect.
piston rings
"Once it's broken in, you want to make sure everything wears in properly first, like your piston rings and things, but yours is already broken in."
Piston rings are small metal rings on the pistons that help seal the engine so power stays efficient. They also need time to seat properly after new installation, which is why the speaker brings up break-in.
Piston rings seal the combustion gases and help control oil consumption. The speaker mentions them in the context of “wear-in” during break-in, implying that proper lubrication and early operation matter for how well rings seat over time.
530
"If I was in a warmer climate, myself, I'm running 530 in it. Yeah, but we just got such variation of climate here. It gets too cold."
“530” means a thicker oil grade than the “20” they discussed earlier. The speaker says cold weather can make that kind of oil harder to flow, which can cause protection problems.
“530” is shorthand for a 5W-30 (or similar) oil viscosity grade. The speaker argues that in very cold climates, that grade may not be appropriate because oil can thicken and flow less effectively when temperatures drop.
cold weather oil flow
"Yeah, but we just got such variation of climate here. It gets too cold. It just gets too cold for that. And that's not what it's recommended for."
Cold weather can make engine oil thicker, so it doesn’t flow as quickly. The speaker is saying that in freezing temperatures you need an oil grade that still protects the engine right away.
The discussion highlights how temperature affects oil viscosity and flow. When it gets below freezing, oil can thicken and take longer to reach critical parts, which can increase wear risk—so the speaker argues for choosing an oil grade appropriate for the climate.
cam lifters
"Yeah. And they were having problems with cam lifters. So there was a, a degradation of metal issue in the industry."
Cam lifters help the camshaft open and close the engine’s valves. If they start to wear out, the engine can get noisy and the valve timing can become less accurate.
Cam lifters (often called hydraulic lifters) are components that transfer motion from the camshaft to the engine valves. When they wear or fail, you can get noisy operation and reduced valve timing accuracy, which can accelerate camshaft and lifter wear.
5W-20
"In the race car world, we run a 5W-20 with some added zinc. That is the attitude."
5W-20 is the type of engine oil thickness. The number affects how well it lubricates when the engine is cold versus when it’s hot.
5W-20 is an engine oil viscosity grade. The “5W” indicates cold-weather flow characteristics, while “20” indicates the oil’s thickness at operating temperature; choosing the correct grade matters for lubrication and wear.
ZDDP
"Well, that, the, the zero 20 that what I'm talking about, that heavy duty vehicle is the replacement for that. People are using that where you're low on zinc and ZDDP... Used to call it Zippity-Doo Dot product ZDDP."
ZDDP is a protective additive in oil that helps prevent metal parts from wearing out too quickly. If your engine needs extra anti-wear protection, low-ZDDP oil can be a problem.
ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) is an anti-wear additive in engine oil that helps protect metal surfaces under high load and high temperature. It’s especially relevant for flat-tappet cam and lifter setups, where insufficient anti-wear protection can contribute to accelerated wear.
Zinc
"People are using that where you're low on zinc and ZDDP... You're just doing something to, to protect it."
Zinc is a protective ingredient in some engine oils. It helps reduce wear on metal parts like cams and lifters.
Zinc is part of the anti-wear additive chemistry discussed alongside ZDDP. Higher zinc/anti-wear additive levels can help protect cam and lifter surfaces under heavy load, which is why oil additive content matters for some engines.
federal regulated emissions (removing oil additives)
"Due to federal regulated emissions in our country, we have removed a lot of the products that provided extra lubrication in the oil. The oil is the same."
Emissions rules can change what’s allowed in engine oil. That can mean less of the “extra protection” additives that used to help certain engines stay lubricated.
The hosts describe how emissions regulations can reduce or remove certain oil additives used to provide extra lubrication. The key idea is that modern oil formulations may have less anti-wear chemistry, which can change wear behavior in engines that are sensitive to additive levels.
diesel fuel sulfur
"What they're taking out, like diesel fuel, they took all the sulfur. And the tolerances in it in the engine and."
Sulfur used to be present in diesel fuel, and removing it can change how the fuel interacts with engine wear and lubrication. That’s one reason older assumptions about fuel/oil compatibility may not hold.
The transcript claims sulfur has been removed from diesel fuel, which can affect lubrication and combustion-related chemistry. Sulfur historically contributed to certain lubrication properties, so reducing it can change how fuels and oils behave together in older or specific engine designs.
oil viscosity flow vs anti-wear protection
"But so you need something that's going to flow very well and reach all the areas, but you also need something to protect."
Oil has to do two things: get to all the moving parts quickly and also protect metal from wearing out. That’s why both the oil’s thickness and its additives matter.
The hosts emphasize a balancing act: modern oils must flow well to reach all engine areas quickly, while also providing anti-wear protection. This is why both viscosity grade and additive package (like ZDDP) are important, especially for cam/lifter systems.
brand name oil
"Do you read that on the ingredients of some brand name oil and see. I'm, I'll say this. No whales were squeezed or harmed for this."
When people say “brand name oil,” they mean the type of oil you buy for your car—like the brand and formula. Different oils are made to protect your engine in different ways.
“Brand name oil” refers to commercially marketed engine oil (or sometimes specialty lubricants) sold under specific labels and formulations. Oil is blended with different base stocks and additive packages to protect engine parts and manage wear, heat, and deposits.
rear ends of cars
"Oh, they used it that people would use that in like rear ends of cars to quiet them down and things along with banana peels and all sorts of things."
“Rear end” usually means the parts of the car that send power to the back wheels. Those parts can make noise, and the right fluid helps quiet them down.
“Rear ends” is a casual way to refer to the drivetrain components at the back of many cars—especially the differential and related gearing. Those parts can create noise, so lubricants and sometimes additives are used to reduce gear whine and chatter.
manual transmission
"I wonder what percentage of our total listening audience right at this very second has ever driven a car with a manual transmission."
A manual transmission is a car where you shift gears yourself using a clutch and a stick. You have to do more of the work, but many people enjoy the control.
A manual transmission is a gearbox controlled by the driver using a clutch pedal and gear shifter. It changes how the car accelerates and how much driver input is required, and it’s increasingly uncommon compared with automatic transmissions.
tensioner noise
"which actually does also make the tensioner noise on cold startup. But once it's warm, you restart, it doesn't make a sound again until it cools off."
That “tensioner noise” is likely a rattly sound from something that keeps a belt or chain tight. It can be louder when the engine is cold and oil hasn’t reached everything yet.
A “tensioner noise” on cold startup usually points to a component that takes up slack in a belt/chain drive—often a timing chain tensioner or accessory belt tensioner. These noises can be more noticeable when oil pressure is low at first start, and they may quiet once the engine warms up and oil circulates.
E15
"I've heard you extol the virtues of running E15 in your vehicle's rest. I've had this for a year and a half or so... Generally, it runs E10."
E15 is regular gasoline mixed with 15% ethanol (a type of alcohol fuel). Some cars are approved to use it, and some aren’t, so it’s important to check what your car’s manufacturer says.
E15 is gasoline blended with 15% ethanol. Whether it’s appropriate depends on the vehicle’s fuel system and manufacturer approvals; many modern cars can use certain ethanol blends, but not all are approved for E15.
E10
"Generally, it runs E10. I've run maybe four or five tanks of E15 in it."
E10 is gasoline with 10% ethanol mixed in. It’s the most common blend you’ll see, and the speaker is comparing it to E15.
E10 is gasoline blended with 10% ethanol, which is the most common ethanol blend at many pumps. The speaker notes their car generally runs E10, then they occasionally use E15, which is relevant because ethanol content can affect fuel economy, cold starts, and long-term compatibility if the vehicle isn’t approved.
fuel trims
"It's just got a difference in the fuel trims a little bit, so it's seeing that. Then cars will run differently depending on what kind of fuel you put in, depending on what the fuel trim is at the moment."
Your car has a computer that constantly tweaks how much fuel it injects. “Fuel trims” are those tweaks, and they can change depending on conditions or the fuel you use, which can make the engine feel a little different at idle.
Fuel trims are the engine computer’s short-term and long-term adjustments to keep the air-fuel mixture at the target ratio. If the trims change after long driving or with different fuel, the engine may idle and run slightly differently even if everything is still within acceptable limits.
check engine light
"It's not enough to set a check engine light or really alert anybody, but they can feel slightly different with different fuels in there."
The check engine light comes on when your car’s computer finds a problem serious enough to log a code. If the engine is only adjusting slightly (like with different fuel), it might feel different but still not turn the light on.
The check engine light (CEL) is triggered when the engine control unit detects a fault code or a problem that exceeds certain thresholds. Minor mixture changes or fuel-quality differences may affect how the engine runs without being severe enough to set a CEL.
octane
"...which runs different than 87 octane regular, no ethanol. They all run a little bit different depending on what you put in it, just like people."
Octane is basically how resistant the fuel is to “knocking” inside the engine. Using different octane levels can make the engine behave a little differently because the car may adjust timing to stay smooth.
Octane rating is a measure of a fuel’s resistance to knock (premature combustion). Higher-octane fuels can change how the engine manages ignition timing, which can lead to subtle differences in how the engine runs, especially under certain conditions.
fuel economy difference over a long trip
"...you'll find if you were to measure your fuel mileage on a very long trip and ran one kind of fuel over 300 miles to your next fill up... you'd see a little difference in fuel economy between those two..."
Your mileage can change depending on the fuel you use. If you test it over a long trip and then compare the next fill-up, you’ll get a clearer idea of whether the fuel is actually affecting efficiency.
Fuel economy can vary with fuel type because energy content and combustion efficiency differ between blends and octane levels. Measuring over a long distance (hundreds of miles) helps average out driving variability and makes small differences easier to notice.
engine operating within its adjustment range
"...if the car is adjusting to it to the point that you're not turning on a check engine light... because it's running out of its zone of ability to accommodate the fuel, it's not going to hurt anything."
Your car’s computer can compensate for small changes in fuel and conditions. If it can adjust enough to keep things healthy, it usually won’t cause damage—even if the idle feels a little different.
Modern engines have a limited “correction range” where the ECU can adjust mixture and timing to accommodate fuel quality and operating conditions. If the ECU can compensate without exceeding limits, the car may run differently but shouldn’t be harmed, and it may not trigger a CEL.
ethanol
"I believe you're going to continue to see increasing blends in the standard fuel of ethanol going forward. I believe that world events will continue to move the needle."
Ethanol is a type of alcohol that gets mixed into gasoline. Some cars are designed to handle it better than others, so the exact blend matters.
Ethanol is a fuel additive made from plant material that’s blended into gasoline. It can change how fuel burns and can affect fuel economy and compatibility depending on the vehicle’s fuel system and tune.
E20
"I almost bet that in the next 12 months, you will see a push towards using some E20 in things. Yeah, because the blends are going to make a big difference in what's in the fuels out there."
E20 is gasoline mixed with 20% ethanol. If your car isn’t approved for higher-ethanol blends, you could run into drivability or warranty issues.
E20 means gasoline blended with 20% ethanol. As ethanol content rises, fuel properties (like energy content and volatility) shift, so the key question is whether your vehicle is rated for that blend.
emergency waiver
"They've already got an emergency waiver out there to allow E15 year-round. That was something that was never that way before."
An emergency waiver is a temporary government approval to let something happen sooner or differently than usual. In this case, it’s about letting higher-ethanol fuel be sold year-round.
An emergency waiver is a temporary regulatory permission that relaxes rules—here, to allow E15 year-round. These waivers can change what’s available at pumps and how quickly fuel standards shift.
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) specification changes
"Whenever 72 was when it was phased out. My guess was because of when they did the emissions on cars. It was the Endangered Species Act. And it led to when they took the whale oil out, it led to a rash of transmission failures in the 70s."
Transmission fluid isn’t just “oil”—it has specific additives and standards. If the fluid type changes and you use the wrong one, an older automatic transmission may not work as it should.
ATF formulations and standards (like Dexron) can change over time due to regulation, supply, or performance requirements. When a fluid is phased out and replaced, older transmissions may be more sensitive to viscosity, friction modifiers, and additive packages—so mismatches can contribute to shifting issues or failures.
Dexron transmission fluid
"Dexron was head whale oil. Dexron A and B from PM head whale oil. So they had it in 71 and not in 2."
Dexron is a type of fluid used in many automatic transmissions. Different “Dexron” versions (like A and B) were used at different times, and using the wrong one can cause shifting problems.
Dexron is a family of automatic transmission fluid specifications used by General Motors and widely referenced by other manufacturers. When the hosts mention Dexron A and B, they’re talking about different generations/variants of that fluid spec that were used in older automatic transmissions.
Endangered Species Act
"My guess was because of when they did the emissions on cars. It was the Endangered Species Act. And it led to when they took the whale oil out, it led to a rash of transmission failures in the 70s."
The Endangered Species Act is a U.S. law meant to protect animals that are at risk. The hosts are saying that rules like this can affect what goes into products, even things like transmission fluid.
The Endangered Species Act is a U.S. law that protects threatened and endangered species and can restrict certain materials and products. In the episode, it’s used as the policy driver behind phasing out whale oil, which the hosts connect to ATF changes and transmission reliability.
spare wheels
"Maybe that person is you, or maybe you want a set of spare wheels that you can install on your vehicle over the winter months"
Spare wheels are just an extra set of wheels you keep around. That way, when conditions change (like winter), you can swap them quickly instead of risking damage to your best set.
Spare wheels are an extra set you keep ready so you can swap tires/wheels without waiting for repairs. In winter, many people use a dedicated set to reduce wear on their best summer wheels.
snow tires
"that you can install on your vehicle over the winter months with snow tires to avoid damaging your nice summer wheels."
Snow tires are tires made for winter weather. They grip better when it’s cold and when roads are snowy or icy.
Snow tires (winter tires) are designed to grip in cold temperatures and on snow/ice. They typically use a softer rubber compound and tread patterns that perform better than all-seasons in winter conditions.
TPMS sensors
"These wheels are a direct fit, so your factory caps and TPMS sensors will fit. Find out more and order yours at roadreadywheels.com"
TPMS sensors are what tell your car when a tire is low on air. The host is saying these replacement wheels are made so your existing sensors can still work.
TPMS sensors are tire-pressure monitoring system sensors that measure tire pressure and alert the driver when pressure is low. The segment notes that the wheels are a direct fit so the factory caps and TPMS sensors will transfer.
car-part.com
"Whether it's an engine, transmission, doors, seats or wheels, you can find them on car-part.com. We even let you know what parts from other models and years fit your car."
car-part.com is a website that helps you find used auto parts from junkyards/recyclers. It’s designed to make it easier to match the right part to your car.
car-part.com is an online marketplace that connects shoppers with independent recyclers across North America. It helps you search for compatible used parts and often includes photos and fitment info by model/year.
fitment (parts from other models and years fit your car)
"We even let you know what parts from other models and years fit your car. Many recyclers supply pictures of their parts too."
“Fitment” refers to whether a part will physically and functionally work on a specific vehicle. Compatibility can depend on model year, trim, and production changes, so fitment guidance is crucial when buying used parts.
Buying recycled car parts
"Whichever you choose, buying recycled is good for the environment and good for your wallet."
Recycled car parts are used parts pulled from cars that are being taken apart. They’re often cheaper and better for the environment than buying brand-new parts.
Buying recycled (used) car parts means sourcing components from salvage yards/recyclers instead of buying new. It can reduce cost and environmental impact because parts are reused rather than manufactured from scratch.
Online quote tool
"It takes just a few minutes using their easy online quote tool on their website. Visit BerkeleyClassics.com."
An online quote tool is a quick way to get an estimated price. You enter your info online, and the site helps you get a quote faster than doing it by phone.
An online quote tool lets you request pricing quickly without calling or visiting. For parts and services, it typically streamlines the process of matching your vehicle details to available inventory and pricing.
BerkeleyClassics.com
"Visit BerkeleyClassics.com. That's BerkeleyClassics.com. Or call 800-603-3330."
BerkeleyClassics.com is a website mentioned in the show, tied to collector-car coverage. It’s presented as a place to learn more or get help.
BerkeleyClassics.com is referenced as a website for collector car coverage/related services. The segment positions it as a resource connected to the show’s audience.
antifreeze
"And it's losing a little bit of antifreeze, but it runs great. And I was just wondering what we could do with it."
Antifreeze is the fluid that keeps your engine from getting too hot. If it’s going down, it usually means there’s a leak or the system isn’t holding coolant like it should.
Antifreeze is the coolant fluid used in an engine’s cooling system to prevent overheating and protect against freezing. If a vehicle is “losing antifreeze,” it usually means there’s a leak somewhere in the cooling system or the coolant level is dropping due to evaporation/overflow.
Case seal ultimate
"Yeah, go buy yourself some case seal. Case seal ultimate. Right. Case seal ultimate. For that one, you put it in there or the HD and the larger system like that."
Case seal ultimate is a product you add to the cooling system to help stop small leaks. It works by sealing the leak from the inside so you can drive while you figure out the real problem.
“Case seal ultimate” is a cooling-system leak sealant product. The idea is that it’s poured into the cooling system (here, the radiator) to seal small leaks by forming a temporary plug where coolant is escaping.
cooling-system leak sealing (temporary stopgap)
"If it's a small, that's small of a leak where it's just using like a cup every few days or something, something really small. That's what it's designed to do is seal those type of systems up."
They’re talking about using a sealant to temporarily stop a coolant leak. It can help you keep driving, but it doesn’t fix the real damage that caused the leak in the first place.
The segment promotes using a cooling-system sealant as a temporary fix for small coolant leaks. This approach can reduce coolant loss and prevent overheating in the short term, but it doesn’t address the underlying cause (like head porosity or a failing gasket).
radiator
"You can pick it up at our partner at Advance Auto Parts. They sell it there. You pour it in the radiator. You make sure the radiator's full."
The radiator is where the engine coolant gives off heat. If you’re adding something to fix a leak, it’s often poured into the radiator so it can circulate through the cooling system.
The radiator is the main heat exchanger in a car’s cooling system. Coolant flows through it so heat can be released to the air, and that’s why adding sealant “into the radiator” is meant to reach the leak area.
Advance Auto Parts
"You can pick it up at our partner at Advance Auto Parts. They sell it there. You pour it in the radiator."
Advance Auto Parts is a store where you can buy car parts and fluids. In this segment, they’re saying you can get the cooling leak sealant there.
Advance Auto Parts is a retail chain that sells automotive parts and fluids, including cooling-system products like leak sealants. The hosts mention it as the place to buy the product they recommend.
screen door effect
"And you probably have a head with some porosity in it, which is common on those engines. Probably not a head gasket, but the screen door effect on your head."
The “screen door effect” means the metal in the cylinder head has tiny holes (porosity). Coolant can slowly leak through those holes, kind of like water through a screen.
“Screen door effect” is a colloquial way to describe a cylinder head that has porosity—tiny pores or pinholes in the casting. Coolant can seep through those pores even if the head gasket is intact, leading to slow coolant loss.
head gasket
"And you probably have a head with some porosity in it, which is common on those engines. Probably not a head gasket, but the screen door effect on your head."
The head gasket is a thin seal between the engine block and the cylinder head. If it fails, coolant can leak into places it shouldn’t, and the engine may overheat or run oddly.
A head gasket seals the engine block to the cylinder head and helps keep coolant, oil, and combustion gases separated. When people suspect a coolant leak, a failing head gasket is one of the common causes, but the speaker suggests this case may not be that.
permanent one step pouring solution
"And it's made to be a permanent one step pouring solution. I have a question for Rich. What's the usage of this F700?"
They’re talking about a sealing product you pour in one go. The idea is that it cures and stays put instead of needing repeated applications.
This sounds like a specialty product used to seal or repair a specific leak or opening. “One step pouring” implies you apply it in a single application rather than mixing multiple steps, and “permanent” suggests it’s intended to cure and last.
engine replacement vs rebuilding
"But if I'd have to replace the engine, can you get a 429? ... You're not going to find a re-manufacturer for that, typically. ... you'd probably be in a situation where you'd have to pull the engine out and send it to a machine shop and have them rebuild it."
They’re comparing two options: swapping in a different engine, or taking your current engine out and having a shop rebuild it. If you can’t buy a ready-made replacement, rebuilding is often the only realistic choice.
The hosts discuss whether a replacement engine can be sourced versus having the existing engine rebuilt. When a specific engine isn’t available as a remanufactured unit, the typical path is to remove it and send it to a machine shop for a rebuild.
injection
"You'd probably be... Injection and I fell in love with it. You'd probably be in a situation where..."
Fuel injection is how the engine gets fuel in a more controlled way. They’re saying they liked how the injected setup drove compared with other fuel systems.
Fuel injection is an engine fuel delivery method where fuel is metered and sprayed by injectors rather than using a carburetor. The speaker’s “injection and I fell in love with it” suggests they prefer the drivability or performance characteristics of injected engines.
re-manufacturer
"If there's not... You're not going to find a re-manufacturer for that, typically. I mean, you could check."
A remanufacturer is a shop/company that rebuilds an old engine and sells it again. They’re saying you probably can’t easily get one of those ready-to-install replacements for this engine.
A “re-manufacturer” (remanufacturer) refers to a company that rebuilds used engines or components to like-new specifications and sells them as remanufactured units. The discussion implies that for this particular engine, remanufactured replacements are hard to find.
machine shop
"... you'd probably be in a situation where you'd have to pull the engine out and send it to a machine shop and have them rebuild it. I think, you know..."
A machine shop is a specialized shop that does precision work on engine parts. If an engine needs rebuilding, they measure and machine worn components so the engine can be put back together correctly.
A machine shop performs precision machining and rebuilding work on engine components (e.g., cylinder work, crankshaft machining, and fitting parts). In engine rebuilds, the engine is typically disassembled, measured, and machined to restore proper tolerances before reassembly.
dump truck
"With this kind of truck, I'd probably try to go for a good... If you could find a good running truck yet that was just beat up real bad and they didn't want to run it for whatever... They're like, I don't feel comfortable using my dump truck anymore."
A dump truck is a truck with a bed that tips up so it can dump things out. Because it works hard hauling heavy stuff, it often needs more attention and repairs.
A dump truck is a heavy-duty truck with a bed that can tilt to unload material like gravel, dirt, or demolition debris. In repair conversations, it usually implies higher loads, more wear, and parts that may be harder to source or diagnose than on lighter vehicles.
engine swap / "Get the whole engine and then have somebody put it in."
"Get the whole engine and then have somebody put it in. But we don't do medium duty or heavy duty trucks."
They’re talking about replacing the whole engine instead of fixing the broken parts inside it. It can be quicker, but you still have to make sure the replacement engine fits and is in good shape.
The hosts describe an engine replacement approach: sourcing a complete engine and having it installed rather than repairing the original. This can be faster and sometimes cheaper than extensive internal repairs, but it depends on the engine’s condition, compatibility, and labor cost.
medium duty or heavy duty trucks
"But we don't do medium duty or heavy duty trucks. We do lots of engines in cars, trucks, vans, anything you can imagine."
These terms mean bigger commercial trucks that are built for heavier work. Some shops avoid them because the repairs require special tools and space.
“Medium duty” and “heavy duty” are categories of commercial trucks based on weight class and how hard they’re expected to work. Repair shops may limit these because the equipment, lifts, and parts logistics required for larger trucks are different from lighter vehicles.
one ton
"Some small box trucks sometimes. Up to one ton basically. Yeah, we just don't do the medium duties of 700, 650, 700s are bigger than we're comfortable with for size-wise."
“One ton” is a way people talk about how big a truck is and how much it can carry. They’re saying they mostly work up to that size.
“One ton” refers to a common pickup/truck payload class (often associated with heavier half-ton/three-quarter-ton/one-ton naming). In this context, it’s used to set the shop’s size limits for what they’re comfortable handling.
porosity
"And I got to hear Russ say, porosity on this call. Porosity. Porosity. Yeah, that's a good... Porosity, porosity."
Porosity means a material has tiny holes inside it. Those holes can sometimes cause leaks or weak spots, which is why it comes up in car repairs.
Porosity means tiny pores or voids inside a material—often discussed in the context of metal casting or engine components. In automotive troubleshooting, porosity can relate to leaks, weak spots, or how well a part can hold pressure or seal.
55 Chevy
"My question's about a 55 Chevy. I've had it for 52 years, actually."
A “55 Chevy” is a 1955 Chevrolet. The caller is talking about keeping and fixing an older classic car they’ve owned for a long time.
“55 Chevy” refers to a 1955 Chevrolet, a classic American car. In this case, the caller says it originally had a 6-cylinder engine and has been kept for decades, so it’s a classic restoration/maintenance story rather than a modern diagnostic.
bored out
"I had the engine pulled a couple years ago, a good local shop. Bored out the original 6-cylinder, the 235. Got everything running great."
“Bored out” means the inside of the engine cylinders was made slightly larger. That’s usually done when cylinders are worn, and it requires the right matching parts to work correctly again.
“Bored out” means enlarging the cylinder bores to increase displacement or to restore worn cylinders. After boring, the engine typically needs matching pistons and proper clearances, and it can run well if the machine work and parts are done correctly.
235
"Bored out the original 6-cylinder, the 235. Got everything running great."
The “235” is the name people use for a Chevrolet inline-six engine from that era. It’s the engine in the car the caller modified and has been driving for a long time.
The “235” is shorthand for Chevrolet’s 235 cubic-inch inline-six engine (often called the Stovebolt). It’s an older, simple design that’s common in mid-century Chevys, and it’s the engine the caller bored out and then ran well for years.
valve springs
"They are the original springs since I've had this engine overhauled... If they just decided they were going to rebuild it and use the original springs... check them on their spring tension checker... they're getting brittle because of the age. And it broke like it did."
Valve springs are the little metal parts that help engine valves close properly. When they get old, they can weaken or crack, and then the engine can start acting up or fail. That’s why the discussion is about whether to replace just one spring or all of them at once.
Valve springs are the components that close engine valves after they’re opened by the camshaft. Over time, they can weaken or become brittle, which can lead to valve float, misbehavior, or even catastrophic failure. In an engine rebuild, mechanics may test spring condition and decide whether to replace one or all springs to prevent repeat failures.
engine overhauled / rebuilding heads
"They are the original springs since I've had this engine overhauled... I talked to the guy who did the heads and he remembers the car."
An engine overhaul is when someone takes the engine apart and fixes worn internal parts. “Heads” are the top parts of the engine where the valves live, and rebuilding them means restoring that area. The conversation is about what was done before and why the springs later failed.
An engine overhaul typically means disassembling and restoring major internal components to proper condition, often including machining and replacing worn parts. “Heads” refers to cylinder heads, which can be rebuilt to address valve and combustion-chamber wear. The transcript implies a prior rebuild and then a later valve-spring-related failure, which is a common pattern in long-term ownership.
replace one vs replace all (while you're in there)
"Do I need to replace all of them or just the one?... Put one spring in it now, drive it. And if it happens again, do all of them... Or if you're going to take this thing across country, you don't want to risk it."
The debate here is whether to fix just the broken spring or replace every spring while the engine is already apart. If all the springs are old, the others may fail soon too. Doing them all can prevent a repeat problem and save time later.
When one valve spring fails, replacing only that one can be tempting, but it may not address the underlying wear pattern—especially if all springs are the same age and have been heat-cycled similarly. Replacing all springs reduces the risk of another spring failing soon after, which is particularly important if the engine work is labor-intensive or you’re planning long-distance driving.
spring tension checker
"I think check them on their spring tension checker... Well, I'm not worried about the tension so much as they're getting brittle because of the age."
A spring tension checker is a tool that measures how strong the valve springs are. If the springs aren’t as strong as they should be, the engine valves may not work correctly. It’s one way to decide if the springs are still safe to reuse.
A spring tension checker is a tool used to measure valve spring force (tension) at specified points. It helps determine whether springs are still within spec or have weakened from age, heat, or fatigue. If the readings are off, replacing the springs can prevent valve control problems.
valve dropped
"...if it didn't break far enough or a valve dropped and caused piston contact and problems, you've got this choice."
“Valve dropped” means the engine valve didn’t stay where it should. If that happens, it can hit the piston inside the engine. That can cause serious damage, which is why it’s treated as a big risk.
“Valve dropped” refers to a valve failing in a way that it comes out of its intended position—often due to wear or a mechanical failure in the valve train. In severe cases, the valve can interfere with the piston, causing major internal engine damage. The transcript connects this to piston contact and “problems,” which is a common catastrophic failure mode.
piston contact
"...or a valve dropped and caused piston contact and problems, you've got this choice."
Piston contact means parts inside the engine hit each other. In this context, it usually happens when a valve fails and then strikes the piston. That kind of collision can cause expensive damage.
Piston contact happens when moving parts collide inside the engine, most commonly when a valve fails to close properly or breaks and then strikes the piston. This can bend valves, damage pistons, and require significant repair. It’s a key reason valve-spring and valve-train issues are treated urgently.
spring compressor
"You can do them yourself at home with a cheap spring compressor. It's like 20 bucks, maybe 14 to 20 bucks."
A spring compressor is a special tool that squeezes the valve spring so you can take the parts off and put new ones on. It helps you do the job safely instead of fighting the spring by hand.
A spring compressor is a tool used to compress a valve spring so you can remove and install the spring, retainer, and clips. It’s essential for safely working on overhead valve (OHV) or overhead cam (OHC) valve trains without damaging components.
air compressor
"And a little air compressor. You get like one of those little can air compressors that most people have for filling up tires or whatever."
They use an air compressor to add air pressure into the cylinder so the valve stays up while you work. That way you don’t accidentally drop the valve parts into the engine.
In this context, an air compressor is used to pressurize a cylinder through the spark plug hole to hold the valves in position while you remove the valve spring components. This prevents the valves from dropping into the engine during the repair.
spark plug hole
"You turn the engine till both the valves are closed on the cylinder you're working on. You hook the air compressor to that cylinder in the spark plug hole, put some air pressure in."
The spark plug hole is where the spark plug screws in. In this DIY method, they use that opening to put air pressure into the cylinder to help hold the valve steady.
The spark plug hole is the opening where the spark plug threads into the cylinder head. Using it as an access point lets you introduce compressed air to keep the valves from moving while you service the valve springs.
clips
"...hooks under the rocker arm bolt, push down, take the clips off, lift it up."
These clips are small locks that keep the valve spring parts from slipping off. If they’re not seated right, the valve train can fail, so it’s important to install them carefully.
Valve spring clips (also called keepers) are small pieces that lock the retainer and spring assembly onto the valve. They must be seated correctly; otherwise the spring/retainer can come loose and cause major engine damage.
rocker arm bolt
"...with the valve cover off, you just take this compressor and hooks under the rocker arm bolt, push down, take the clips off, lift it up."
The rocker arm bolt is part of the mechanism that moves the valves. The tool uses the nearby hardware as a solid place to push down while you remove the spring parts.
The rocker arm bolt is part of the rocker/valve-actuation assembly that transfers motion from the camshaft to the valve. The spring compressor is positioned relative to this area to apply force safely while removing the clips and retainer.
retainer
"You lift the spring and retainer and everything right off the top. Put the new spring on."
The retainer is the piece that helps hold the valve spring and valve parts together. When you compress the spring, you can remove the retainer/clip setup and put it back correctly.
The retainer is the component that sits on top of the valve spring and holds it in place with the valve spring clips. When you compress the spring, the retainer and clips can be removed and reinstalled to secure the new spring.
umbrella seal
"You're going to put on the intake valves. You're going to slide a new umbrella seal over. You just pop it on for oil usage."
An umbrella seal (valve stem seal) controls oil flow around the valve stem so oil doesn’t get pulled into the combustion chamber. Replacing them can reduce oil consumption and smoke caused by worn seals.
seated well
"You get a little rubber mallet. Give it a couple of little light taps there to make sure it's seated well and you move on to the next cylinder."
“Seated well” means the parts are sitting in the right place, fully and evenly. If they aren’t, the engine can run poorly or parts can come loose.
“Seated well” means the spring/retainer/related parts are fully in their correct position with no gaps or misalignment. Proper seating is critical for valve train reliability and to ensure the clips retain the assembly securely.
six-cylinder
"And this is a six-cylinder car, so more than likely basic colors. I'm going to say that this car is white."
“Six-cylinder” means the engine has six combustion chambers. It usually runs smoothly, and on older cars it can help narrow down which version you’re looking at.
“Six-cylinder” means the engine has six cylinders, which typically indicates a smoother-running powerplant than four-cylinder engines. In older or classic cars, cylinder count can also correlate with available trim levels and typical factory color schemes.
Tri-5 Chevy
"We only had one guy that drove an old Tri-5 like that. He had a 56 Chevy, Steven Selman. Man, that thing was fast."
“Tri-5” is a nickname for the mid-1950s Chevrolet cars—1955, 1956, and 1957. The caller is saying that one specific Tri-5 Chevy made them appreciate that whole era of cars.
“Tri-5” is shorthand for the 1955–1957 Chevrolet models. In this segment, the hosts are talking about a classic 1950s Chevy that shaped their perception of that generation as “cool,” even decades later.
big block
"That one didn't have a 235-600 in it. It did not. It had a big block in it."
“Big block” is a nickname for a larger, more powerful V8 engine. It’s usually the kind of engine people associate with classic American muscle.
A “big block” refers to Chevrolet’s larger-displacement V8 engines (commonly associated with the 396/427/454 family in later years, though the exact engine isn’t specified here). Big-block engines are typically known for strong low- to mid-range power and a heavier, more muscular feel.
Dodge Dakota
"I have a Dodge Dakota 2000. And I've been having some issues to where when I drove it, it would just shut off and dead stick."
This is a 2000 Dodge Dakota pickup. If it randomly shuts off and won’t restart, it often means the car’s computer is getting bad or missing information from a sensor, or there’s an electrical problem. The goal is to find what’s causing the “random” behavior.
The Dodge Dakota is a mid-size pickup, and the 2000 model year uses electronic engine management to control starting, fueling, and many safety/limp behaviors. When it shuts off while driving, it usually points to an intermittent sensor or power/communication issue that confuses the engine computer.
dead stick
"And I've been having some issues to where when I drove it, it would just shut off and dead stick. You know, you couldn't really steer it and you had to stop it and then it wouldn't restart."
“Dead stick” means the engine suddenly dies. When it happens while driving and the car won’t restart reliably, it often suggests an electrical or sensor problem that’s cutting off the engine.
“Dead stick” describes an engine that suddenly shuts off as if the ignition was turned off, leaving the vehicle without power. In this context, it usually points to a loss of engine management input (sensor signal) or an electrical/power interruption rather than a gradual mechanical failure.
engine control module
"I've had a shop replace the engine control module. So as a reman, that didn't fix the issue."
The engine control module is the car’s main computer for the engine. It reads sensor data and decides how to run the engine. If replacing it doesn’t fix the issue, the problem is often something like a faulty sensor, loose wiring, or a bad connection.
The engine control module (ECM) is the car’s main computer for engine operation. It uses inputs from sensors to decide things like ignition timing and fuel delivery; if it’s replaced and the problem remains, the root cause is often an intermittent sensor signal, wiring/connector issue, or power/ground problem.
speedometer control sensor
"I had a friend tell me that if you replace the speedometer control sensor, the one that's on the outside of the transmission, that might fix it."
This sensor tells the car how fast you’re going. Even though it affects the speedometer, the engine computer can also use that info for how the engine runs. If it’s intermittent, it can confuse the computer and cause stalling or starting problems.
A speedometer control sensor (often a vehicle speed sensor) tells the ECM how fast the vehicle is moving. Even if it’s “just for the speedometer,” the ECM may use that signal for idle control, transmission-related logic, and diagnostic strategies—so a bad or intermittent sensor can cause stalling or no-restart conditions.
camshaft crank shaft sensor
"I also had the camshaft crank shaft sensor. That one's outside of the transmission to replace too, but nothing seems to fix this thing."
These sensors tell the computer where the engine parts are in their rotation. If the signal drops out or is wrong, the computer can’t time the spark and fuel correctly, so the engine may stall and not restart. Intermittent sensor failures are a common cause of this behavior.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensors provide the ECM with engine timing information—essential for spark and fuel synchronization. If either sensor signal is intermittent or incorrect, the engine can shut off while driving and may fail to restart until the signal returns to normal.
intermittent
"So in this, how often will this happen? Well, it's intermittent."
An intermittent fault happens only sometimes, which makes it harder to diagnose because it may not reproduce during a test drive or when a shop checks codes. Intermittent no-start/stall issues are often caused by loose connectors, failing sensors, chafed wiring, or power/ground problems that only show up under certain conditions (heat, vibration, or voltage changes).
turn over
"[2452.5s] I mean, right now I don't drive it because I'm not sure. [2456.1s] The other day I tried to start it wouldn't start. [2458.7s] So I left it for a day. [2459.8s] I went back and it turned right over. [2461.7s] So then I moved it a little bit..."
When people say a car “turns over,” they mean the engine is being cranked by the starter. If it cranks but won’t start, it’s often something like fuel or spark. If it doesn’t crank, it’s more likely the battery or starter system.
“Turn over” describes the starter motor cranking the engine. If a car “turns over” but won’t run, that usually points to a fuel/spark problem. If it doesn’t turn over at all, the issue is often electrical (battery, starter, connections) or mechanical (seized engine).
diagnosing a no-start condition by listening for cranking noise
"[2471.9s] Turned right over. [2473.0s] He's saying it doesn't turn over when it doesn't start or it doesn't fire up and run. [2477.1s] No, I mean, it started. [2478.3s] It started. [2478.9s] It fired right up. [2498.6s] Russ, try asking the question a different way. [2501.5s] What noise does it make?"
The hosts are using a classic diagnostic approach for “no-start” problems: determine what the engine does when you attempt to start it. Asking whether it cranks/whirls, makes a clicking/trying sound, or is completely dead helps separate electrical starting-system faults from fuel/spark/ignition problems. This “what noise does it make?” method speeds up troubleshooting.
starter motor
"[2482.4s] Is it whirling the engine when it doesn't start? [2485.6s] Is it whirling the engine when it doesn't start or is it just dead? [2491.6s] You can hear it trying to start. [2494.4s] It just doesn't turn over the whole way, I guess. [2498.6s] Russ, try asking the question a different way. [2501.5s] What noise does it make?"
The starter motor is what actually spins the engine when you try to start the car. If it’s not working well, the car may make clicking or weak cranking sounds. If it’s working, the engine should spin, even if it still won’t start for other reasons.
The starter motor is the electric motor that cranks the engine when you turn the key or press the start button. When the starter is weak or failing, you may hear slow cranking or repeated “trying to start” noises. When it’s working, the engine should at least rotate (“turn over”) even if it still won’t fire up.
whirling the engine
"[2482.4s] Is it whirling the engine when it doesn't start? [2485.6s] Is it whirling the engine when it doesn't start or is it just dead? [2491.6s] You can hear it trying to start. [2494.4s] It just doesn't turn over the whole way, I guess."
“Whirling the engine” means the engine is spinning when you try to start it. That’s an important clue because it tells you whether the starter is doing its job. If it doesn’t whirl at all, the problem is usually electrical; if it whirls but won’t start, it’s often fuel or spark.
“Whirling the engine” is a lay description of the engine rotating during cranking. It helps distinguish whether the engine is actually turning over (starter is engaging) versus being completely dead (no rotation). The difference narrows the diagnosis toward either starting-system issues or fuel/spark/engine-management issues.
scanner
"...if it was our own vehicle, I have to have a scanner connected to it while it's not starting."
A scanner is a device you plug into the car to talk to its computer. It can show error codes and real-time readings so you can figure out what’s going wrong when the car won’t start.
A “scanner” is a diagnostic tool that plugs into a car’s onboard computer to read trouble codes and live data. It helps pinpoint why a car won’t start, especially for intermittent faults that don’t show up every time.
fuel pressure gauge
"A fuel pressure gauge is connected to it while it's not starting and I'm cranking it and I'm looking for what I'm missing."
A fuel pressure gauge checks whether the car is pushing fuel with enough pressure. If the pressure is too low when you crank the engine, the engine may not start.
A fuel pressure gauge measures how much pressure the fuel system is producing during cranking. Low or unstable fuel pressure can cause a no-start condition, and checking it while the engine is being cranked helps confirm whether the fuel system is the culprit.
RPM signal
"Do I have an RPM signal coming into the computer or not? I mean, if I don't, then I need to test that sensor..."
The RPM signal tells the car’s computer that the engine is actually turning. If the computer doesn’t get that signal, it may not allow the engine to start.
An RPM signal is the engine-speed information the computer receives while cranking. If the computer doesn’t see an RPM input, it may not command fuel/spark correctly, leading to a no-start even if other systems are working.
power and ground
"And have I checked my power and ground at the computer first? And these decoders are not known for a crank, no start issue."
Cars rely on electricity to run sensors and computers. “Power” is the incoming voltage and “ground” is the return path to complete the circuit. If either is weak or broken, the car can act like the computer or sensor is bad.
In automotive diagnostics, “power and ground” checks confirm the computer and sensors are getting the correct voltage supply and a solid electrical return path. If either is missing or intermittent, the scan tool may show communication or “not reading” symptoms even when the parts you replaced are fine.
crank signal
"And these decoders are not known for a crank, no start issue. It's not something that is common. There are a few vehicles."
When you turn the key, the car needs to detect that the engine is actually cranking. If it can’t “see” that signal, it may not allow the engine to start. That’s why crank-related issues can cause a no-start.
A “crank signal” is the engine-start reference the ECU/PCM uses to know the engine is being cranked by the starter. If the ECU doesn’t see that signal, it may prevent fuel/spark strategies and you’ll get a no-start condition even if other components are replaced.
GMs
"It's not something that is common. There are a few vehicles. Some of the GMs have a problem with the ignition relay."
They’re saying this problem shows up on some General Motors vehicles. That matters because it suggests there’s a common failure pattern to look for, not just random bad luck.
The hosts mention “GMs” in the context of a recurring issue: ignition relay failures that can be identified via history codes. This is a brand-level clue that the fault pattern is seen across multiple GM vehicles rather than being a one-off.
ignition relay
"Some of the GMs have a problem with the ignition relay. And we just know that occasionally they fail and we can look into, dig into the history codes and we can find that there was an ignition relay code."
A relay is like an electrically controlled switch. The ignition relay helps send power where it needs to go for starting and ignition. If it fails, the car may not start, and the computer can sometimes log clues.
An ignition relay is a switch controlled by the vehicle’s control system that supplies power to ignition-related circuits. The hosts describe it as a known GM failure point where history codes can indicate an ignition relay issue, and replacing it can prevent future no-start situations.
history codes
"dig into the history codes and we can find that there was an ignition relay code. And if I see that sometimes when I'm just looking at a vehicle, some of our fleet vehicles we work on and I'm scanning,"
The car’s computer keeps records of problems it has seen before. “History codes” are like past notes—sometimes the problem happened earlier and isn’t happening at the exact moment you scan it. Those clues can still point you to the real cause.
“History codes” are stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that were triggered in the past but may not be active right now. They’re useful because they can reveal intermittent faults—like an ignition relay issue—that won’t show up during a momentary scan.
no start diagnosis after parts replacement
"With the parts you've already replaced and the money you've already spent, they were all the techs were leaning towards a crank signal issue... if all those parts have been replaced... start looking at wiring in powers and grounds a little bit closer and see if there's anything in that harness that looks distressed or is it a pinch point, washer fluid ran down somewhere..."
If you replace a bunch of parts and the car still won’t start, the problem is often not the last part you changed. It can be something electrical like a broken wire, a bad connection, or a spot where the wiring got pinched or got wet. That’s why wiring checks become the next step.
The segment highlights a common diagnostic trap: after multiple parts are replaced, the remaining likely causes shift toward wiring, connectors, and electrical supply/return paths. The hosts emphasize checking power/ground and inspecting the harness for damage, pinch points, or water intrusion—especially when scan data suggests the computer isn’t seeing expected signals.
wiring harness
"With it running and you get the hood open, just gently move wires. Don't pry them... put one finger on it and give them a little push all the way from one end of the harness to the other... we pull it away from the like the firewall or fender liner and we look at the backside of it and we see a rub through to metal where it's almost bare."
A wiring harness is the car’s main bundle of wires. If the wires get rubbed and the insulation wears off, the car can act up—sometimes it won’t start until the wiring is disturbed or repaired.
A wiring harness is the bundled set of wires that carries power and signals between sensors, modules, and the engine bay. When a harness has damage—like a rub-through that exposes bare metal—it can create intermittent resistance or short conditions that prevent starting.
firewall
"...we pull it away from the like the firewall or fender liner and we look at the backside of it and we see a rub through to metal where it's almost bare..."
The firewall is a wall between the engine area and the inside of the car. Wires often run near it, so if something rubs there, it can cause starting or electrical problems.
The firewall is the structural barrier between the engine bay and the cabin. It’s also a common place for wiring and hoses to pass through, so harness damage near the firewall can cause intermittent electrical faults.
fender liner
"...we pull it away from the like the firewall or fender liner and we look at the backside of it and we see a rub through to metal where it's almost bare..."
A fender liner is the plastic or composite cover inside the wheel well that helps protect against dirt, water, and debris. It can also hide wiring routes, so removing/inspecting it can reveal harness rub points.
diagnostic labor cost
"Now, what would I have charged somebody to do that?... if they were a regular customer for four years worth of labor, maybe 50,000 bucks, 80,000 bucks... they're going to charge you for the fuel too, whatever the pump says."
The segment highlights how diagnostic time and shop overhead affect pricing, including labor hours and incidental costs like fuel used during diagnosis. The speaker argues that intermittent issues can require a lot of time, which translates into higher bills.
diagnosing it
"You bring your car to a shop. If they have to spend three hours driving your car and diagnosing it and it's low on fuel and they have to put it in, they're going to charge you for the fuel too, whatever the pump says."
Diagnosing a car problem means figuring out what’s actually causing the issue. Mechanics often have to test a few possibilities one at a time, and if the problem is intermittent, it can take longer to catch.
The hosts are describing the diagnostic process: systematically checking likely causes until the exact fault is found and can be duplicated. This is often time-consuming because intermittent problems can be hard to reproduce on demand.
test ride
"If they have to spend three hours driving your car and diagnosing it... But still, I mean, you've got it. All those things come into play."
A test ride is when the mechanic drives the car to see if the problem happens while driving. Some problems only show up on the road, not in the driveway.
A test ride (road test) is used to reproduce symptoms under real driving conditions and confirm whether a repair or diagnosis is correct. Some issues only show up when the car is moving, loaded, or at certain speeds.
low fuel
"“it says low fuel, you know, we're on E. You can't drive it.”"
“Low fuel” means the car doesn’t have much gas left. The warning is telling you to refuel soon, and the hosts are saying it can become a problem if you keep driving.
“Low fuel” means the fuel level is near the bottom of the tank’s usable range, typically triggering a warning light or message on the dashboard. The hosts imply it can limit drivability, which is why they say you “can’t drive it” when the warning is active.
Ford Maverick
"... we this far in? We're what? Five years into the Maverick. The mid-sized truck stuff is coming."
The Ford Maverick is a pickup truck that’s smaller than many traditional trucks. It’s meant for daily driving and light hauling, and the podcast is noting that it’s been on the market for a few years. They’re also talking about what comes next for the mid-sized truck category.
The Ford Maverick is a compact/midsize pickup truck that’s known for being a practical, everyday truck rather than a full-size workhorse. In the podcast context, it’s being discussed as the model that’s already several years into its run, with attention turning to the broader “mid-sized truck” segment. That makes it a relevant topic for how Ford’s lineup is evolving and what buyers are looking for in this class.
mid-sized truck market
"“We're what? Five years into the Maverick. The mid-sized truck stuff is coming.”"
They’re talking about how more companies are getting into the mid-sized truck space. The conversation is about what’s coming next in the truck market.
This segment discusses the timing and momentum of mid-sized truck offerings, using the Ford Maverick as a reference point and then looking ahead to what other brands (like Hyundai) are planning. It’s a market-focused conversation rather than a technical deep dive.
Hyundai
"“I mean, Hyundai is working on a mid-sized truck to bring into the market… What I just saw the new… Hyundai SUV…”"
Hyundai is the automaker being discussed. The hosts say Hyundai is planning new vehicles—like a mid-sized truck and a new SUV—so it’s part of the reason the truck market is changing.
Hyundai is referenced as working on a mid-sized truck and also as having a new SUV. The discussion frames Hyundai’s product expansion as part of the broader shift toward more mid-sized truck offerings in the market.
Hyundai Palisade
"Oh, man, I thought the Palisade. No, no, no, no. It's not different than that... Pacific Palisade, I'm guessing, was probably."
The Hyundai Palisade is a big family SUV from Hyundai. The hosts are talking about the name “Palisade” and whether it’s being reused for something else.
The Hyundai Palisade is a midsize three-row SUV known for comfort and family-friendly packaging. In this segment, the hosts are comparing it to another “Palisade” name and discussing what the name might be referencing.
Chevrolet Blazer
"it looked like they were going to do a little more rugged looking modifications to the Chevy Blazer, the small Blazer, making it look more like a a real SUV have."
The Chevrolet Blazer is a compact SUV that’s been offered in multiple trims and generations. Here, the hosts discuss making the Blazer look more rugged—essentially styling and positioning it closer to a “real SUV.”
body-on-frame
"They're talking the boulder body on frame. That should have been the boulder should be a GM product."
Body-on-frame means the car’s body is mounted on a separate metal frame underneath. Trucks and rugged SUVs often use this because it can be stronger for rough driving.
Body-on-frame is a vehicle construction method where the body sits on a separate ladder-like frame. It’s common on trucks and many rugged SUVs because it can handle rough use well and makes it easier to build off-road-focused variants.
Chevrolet Colorado
"Don't you think like the Colorado boulder? There you go."
The Chevrolet Colorado is a midsize pickup truck. They’re using it as a comparison for what a rugged, truck-based version might be like.
The Chevrolet Colorado is a midsize pickup truck, often used as a reference point for “rugged” styling and platform choices. The hosts connect the idea of a “boulder” (which they suspect is GM-related) to the Colorado as an example of how GM might approach a truck-based design.
Kleenex
"And that comes from Kleenex, Kleenex battery. That type of thing. But when you go to buy Kleenex, you just go, you're going there."
Kleenex is a brand of tissues, but people often use the name “Kleenex” to mean any tissue. The hosts are comparing that to how people might refer to a battery tender by a brand name.
Kleenex is a brand name that became a generic term for tissues, similar to how people say “Kleenex” instead of “tissue.” The hosts use it as an analogy for how certain product brands become the common name for the item.
battery tender
"But if you go in and ask for stabilizer or a battery tender, those are brands of those things that you still go for because you, you ask for it."
A battery tender is a device you plug in to keep your battery healthy. It charges gently and helps prevent the battery from going dead when the car isn’t driven much.
A battery tender is a smart charger/maintainer that keeps a car battery at the right voltage without overcharging. It’s commonly used for cars that sit for long periods, helping prevent sulfation and dead-battery issues.
stabilizer
"But if you go in and ask for stabilizer or a battery tender, those are brands of those things that you still go for because you, you ask for it."
A “stabilizer” is often a bar that helps keep the car from leaning too much in turns. It connects the left and right sides of the suspension so the car feels more balanced.
In an auto parts context, “stabilizer” usually refers to a stabilizer bar (also called an anti-roll bar). It helps reduce body roll during cornering by transferring load side-to-side through the suspension.
used auto parts
"And we know that from testing that's been done in our industry with a technical institute, the carbon savings equivalent for using used auto parts is huge."
Using used car parts can be better for the environment than buying brand-new. It avoids a lot of the pollution and energy used to make new parts from scratch.
The hosts discuss the environmental impact of reusing parts instead of manufacturing new ones. Reusing used auto parts can reduce the “embedded” carbon from production, shipping, and raw material extraction.
used door
"By putting one used door on your car, like we did on Chris's Honda that was damaged in the left rear, how many gallons of gas was it?"
A used door is a replacement car body panel taken from another car. It can be cheaper and more eco-friendly than buying a brand-new door, as long as it fits and is in good shape.
A “used door” is a replacement body panel sourced from a previously damaged vehicle (often from a salvage yard or recycling program). Using a used door can be a cost- and emissions-saving alternative to manufacturing a new panel, assuming fitment and condition are verified.
car battery
"If you got some oil, you got some antifreeze, a car battery, maybe some bent fender you took off at one time and it's still sitting there."
A car battery provides electrical power to start the engine and run accessories when the engine isn’t producing enough electricity. Batteries contain heavy metals and acid, so recycling them is important for safety and environmental reasons.
bent fender
"If you got some oil, you got some antifreeze, a car battery, maybe some bent fender you took off at one time and it's still sitting there."
A fender is the metal panel over the wheel. If it’s bent, it usually means the car got hit, and it may need repair or replacement.
A fender is the outer body panel above the wheel that helps protect the wheel area from road debris and also contributes to the car’s crash/fitment structure. Bent fenders are common in minor impacts and are often recycled or repaired depending on damage.
Nordstrom's 2.0
"When you built this new facility, yes, Nordstrom's 2.0, it was very much, you had people coming through from the industry because it was pretty cutting edge at the time"
They’re talking about a newer version of a facility called “Nordstrom’s 2.0.” It’s basically a modern workshop/building where their organization does its work, and they’re saying it was advanced for its time.
The hosts reference “Nordstrom's 2.0” as the name of a new, cutting-edge facility they built. In this context, it’s less about a car and more about how an automotive-related organization modernized its workspace and processes.
Facility tour / how the shop works
"You can go on into the, you can go out of the, if you want to get a tour of Nordstrom's, anybody can do this. You can go to YouTube and you can go to a dash R."
The segment discusses getting a tour of the facility and learning how everything works, including a multi-part video series. This is a “how it’s run” topic rather than a specific technical automotive concept.
YouTube
"You can go to YouTube and you can go to a dash R. Well, I don't, it's auto motorcycle associations, YouTube channel."
They mention YouTube as where you can watch a multi-part video series. It’s just how they share the information.
YouTube is mentioned as the platform where viewers can find a four-part series about the facility and how it operates. It’s a media reference, not an automotive technology.
Wrangler Rubicon
"...es for him. And so the one we were in was called Rubicon and it is suspended truly by it's in three trees..."
The Wrangler is an off-road SUV made to handle rough trails. The podcast mentions a “Rubicon,” which is a more off-road-focused version of the Wrangler. It’s brought up because it can be used in challenging terrain.
The Wrangler is a Jeep off-road SUV built for serious trail use, with a design that emphasizes ground clearance and rugged capability. In the podcast, it’s specifically mentioned in the context of a “Rubicon,” which is a Wrangler variant known for enhanced off-road hardware. That’s why it comes up when discussing how a vehicle performs in difficult terrain.
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