The Under the Hood Show tackles a mix of real-world drivability and maintenance questions. A 2004 Jeep Wrangler dies after warming up, with codes pointing toward a failing cam sensor and a possible fuel pressure issue—vapor lock is dismissed. A 2021 Silverado owner asks about the 4-cylinder turbo’s longevity and towing, with emphasis on strict oil maintenance. Other calls cover vintage A/C charging for a replica Mustang, a carbureted car “dieseling” after sitting, diesel cooling pump/filter service on an F-350, torque-converter chatter fixes, EVAP fumes with a P0440, and a Jeep transmission clunk tied to overheating/cooler flow.
We have Car Repair Advice? And we give it all for free. Under The Hood is America's Favorite Car Talk Show. Free Car Repair Advice given to anyone who needs it. You can save money on car repairs and get your car going faster. Three guys hanging out talking cars and any repair problem you may have. Thanks for Tuning in and Tuning Up! 1. Why does my 04 Jeep Cherokee chug a Lug when hot? 2. Is a 21 Silverado with the turbo 4 cylinder any good? What about towing? 3. Why does my 73 Ford Grand Torino start hard? 4. Should I put a Coolant Filter on my 08 Ford F350 Diesel? 5. How do I fix a Transmission shudder on my 13 Chevy Traverse? 6. My car has a gas smell and a PO440 code how do I fix it? 7. How do I fix a PO1300 on a Toyota Tacoma? 8. Why does my 11 Jeep Transmission clunk when hot? 9. 75 Chevy K5 Blazer is it a bad Turn Signal switch?
"...unless you have so low a fuel pressure, it's making the vehicle run poorly and a quick fuel pressure check with a gauge would tell you that and that would eliminate all your problems."
This is a test where you measure fuel pressure with a tool. If the reading is low, it points to things like a weak fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel system.
A fuel pressure test uses a pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail or service port to verify the system is producing the correct pressure. It’s a direct way to confirm or rule out fuel pump, filter, or regulator problems.
"I think you could have a fuel pressure issue, bad pump. No filter. I don't believe on 04 Jeep any longer. It's in the tank."
The fuel pump is what pushes gas from the tank to the engine. If it’s weak, the engine may not get enough fuel pressure, especially when things get hot.
The fuel pump supplies pressurized fuel to the engine. If the pump is weak, fuel pressure can drop under heat or load, causing poor running and symptoms that can resemble other issues like vapor lock.
"Or it could be that you've got a failing sensor. You got a mass air flow that's failing. You've got a map sensor that's got an issue."
A mass air flow sensor tells the car how much air is going into the engine. If it’s wrong or failing, the car may add too much or too little fuel and run rough.
Mass air flow (MAF) sensors measure how much air the engine is drawing in. If a MAF fails or reads incorrectly, the engine can run poorly because the fuel mixture is calculated from that air measurement.
"You've got a crank sensor or cam sensor... Cedric? Well, there's a certain codes that comes up like a camshaft position sensor... But that cam sensor code can cause O2 sensor codes by it running poorly."
The cam sensor tells the car which part of the engine cycle it’s in. If it’s bad, the car may run rough and throw codes.
A camshaft position sensor tells the ECU which stroke the engine is in, helping with precise fuel injection and ignition timing. If it fails (or its wiring is faulty), the engine can run poorly and can also lead to other sensor-related codes.
"...to be reading it, maybe recording the data and playing it back to see when it starts to fail, which sensor is weak."
Recording live sensor data during a drive (or test) lets the technician review exactly what changed when the problem starts. Playback helps correlate symptoms with specific sensor readings and fault conditions.
"...like a camshaft position sensor. There you go. Circuit or the system lean bank one or heater bank sensor one."
“Lean” means the engine may not be getting enough fuel compared to the air. When that happens, the car can run poorly and throw codes.
A system lean condition means the ECU is detecting that the air-fuel mixture is too lean (too much air or not enough fuel). This can be caused by fuel delivery problems, sensor issues, or vacuum/air leaks, and it often triggers related O2 and mixture codes.
"Those are O2 codes. Those heater codes, that's part of your oxygen sensor and that won't affect the way it's running. That only affects emissions as it's warming up."
Oxygen sensors have a built-in heater so they start working fast. A heater code usually means the sensor isn’t warming up correctly, which can hurt emissions more than performance.
Heater codes indicate a problem with the oxygen sensor’s heater circuit. The heater brings the O2 sensor up to operating temperature quickly; if it’s failing, the sensor may not warm properly, which mainly affects emissions during warm-up.
"We've got a couple customers that own these that have over 150,000 miles on them that have not yet had any problems, and they're just doing the regular maintenance intervals on them."
They mention some owners who have driven the truck for over 150,000 miles without major issues. That’s a good real-world sign that the setup can last if it’s maintained.
The speaker cites customers with over 150,000 miles who haven’t had problems yet. Mileage like this is often used as a practical indicator of whether a powertrain design can survive long-term use when paired with regular service.
"But, you got to do that. Maintenance is so important on these vehicles, especially oil changes. Anything with, you know, internal wet belts, if you're not changing that oil, that acid's going to break down those belts."
Oil changes keep the engine properly lubricated and clean. Skipping them can lead to faster wear and bigger problems later.
Oil changes are the scheduled replacement of engine oil to maintain lubrication and protect internal components. The speaker emphasizes that turbo engines and modern internal designs can be especially sensitive to oil breakdown, which can contribute to wear and mechanical issues.
Term
internal wet belts
"Maintenance is so important on these vehicles, especially oil changes. Anything with, you know, internal wet belts, if you're not changing that oil, that acid's going to break down those belts."
They’re talking about a belt that lives inside the engine and runs in oil. If the oil gets old, it can turn acidic and damage that belt over time.
“Wet belts” usually refers to a belt system that runs in oil (as opposed to a dry belt). The speaker warns that if oil isn’t changed, oil breakdown products (“acid”) can degrade the belt material and contribute to later mechanical problems.
"It's supposed to be rated because of the displacement of the engine. It's a 310 horsepower. I tow a 18-foot boat with it."
Horsepower is how much “pulling power” the engine can produce. It matters for towing, but the truck’s gearing and how it shifts are just as important for how it feels on the road.
Horsepower is a measure of engine power output, which influences how well a vehicle can accelerate and maintain speed while towing. However, towing performance also depends heavily on torque, gearing, and transmission calibration.
"When Shannon upgraded his old truck with a 6-speed transmission to a new one with a 10-speed transmission, he thought what he was pulling with his big snowmobile trailer..."
A 10-speed transmission adds even more ratios than an 8-speed, which can make towing feel smoother by matching engine RPM to load more precisely. The speaker also links the change to improved fuel economy, likely from better ratio selection.
"But when he went to the new one, he says it was like night and day, and it's the same size engine, but that extra gearing just made it so much smoother, and the fuel economy even went up."
Fuel economy is how efficiently the vehicle uses fuel, often expressed as MPG. Under towing, better transmission ratio selection can reduce engine strain and keep RPM closer to where the engine is most efficient.
"air conditioning system. It uses the factory condenser, a sand and 508 compressor, which is pretty standard, receiver dryer, and the evap, if you have ever seen those Mustang under dash units, similar to that, but it goes up behind the dashboard."
Your car’s A/C is basically a heat-pump. It needs the right amount of refrigerant and good airflow so it can cool the cabin without getting “ice cold” in the wrong place.
The air conditioning (A/C) system is a closed-loop refrigeration setup that moves heat from inside the cabin to the outside. It relies on correct refrigerant charge and proper airflow through the evaporator to keep the system from freezing up.
"You're going to have to, so you're going to look online and see there'll be temperature charts and pressure charts, and you can measure the high pressure side and the low pressure side, and it'll be different between one with an orifice tube and one with an expansion valve, I'm assuming because all these have an expansion valve."
They’re talking about reference charts that tell you what gauge readings should look like. Using those charts helps you know whether your A/C is undercharged or behaving normally.
Temperature and pressure charts are diagnostic references that show expected readings for a given A/C configuration. They’re especially important when comparing systems with different refrigerant metering methods (expansion valve vs orifice tube).
"there'll be temperature charts and pressure charts, and you can measure the high pressure side and the low pressure side, and it'll be different between one with an orifice tube and one with an expansion valve, I'm assuming because all these have an expansion valve."
A/C gauges usually read two sides: one for higher pressure and one for lower pressure. Checking both gives a better picture of what’s wrong than looking at just one reading.
The A/C system is typically monitored on two gauge locations: the high side and the low side. Comparing both helps diagnose whether the issue is related to refrigerant charge, airflow, or metering behavior.
"Pretty standard, the electronic ignition, pretty standard stuff. When I go to start it, it kind of... almost diesels..."
Electronic ignition replaces older points-style ignition with electronic components to control spark timing and improve reliability. If starting is rough, ignition timing, spark strength, and related maintenance (plugs/wires) are common suspects.
"...until it builds oil pressure, and my oil pressure is good, it's about 50 PSI. The engine's nice..."
Oil pressure tells you how well the engine is pumping oil around. If it takes a while to build after sitting, some internal parts may not work smoothly for the first seconds.
Oil pressure is the force of oil circulating through the engine’s lubrication system. Low or slow-to-build oil pressure can contribute to delayed hydraulic lifter operation and rough initial running after sitting.
"...that carburetor you have on that, just a little bit. So when you crank it, it's got to, it's got to fill it up."
A carburetor is the part that blends fuel with air so the engine can start and run. If it loses fuel while the car sits, the engine may crank before it gets the right mixture.
A carburetor mixes fuel and air for an engine using engine vacuum and fuel pressure. If the carburetor bowl loses fuel over time, starting can be delayed until the bowl refills.
"...then plug the coil wire in, do the normal choke thing. And if it fires right up immediately, it's a loss of fuel out of that."
“Starts right up immediately” is used as a diagnostic indicator: if the engine fires quickly after the no-spark cranking procedure, it suggests the issue is fuel loss/leakage rather than ignition timing or other problems. The comparison is between normal starting and the controlled refilling test.
"And those Edelbrocks, if you take the carburetor off after the engine's cooled down..."
Edelbrock makes aftermarket parts like carburetors. Here, they’re talking about checking whether an Edelbrock carb is leaking fuel.
Edelbrock is an aftermarket performance parts brand best known for carburetors and intake systems. The speaker is specifically discussing diagnosing fuel leakage on an Edelbrock carburetor.
"Berkeley One Classics ensured me with an agreed value policy. That means if you suffer a loss, there's no haggle over the value of your vehicle."
This type of insurance agrees on a value for your car ahead of time. If something happens and the car is a total loss, you don’t have to argue about what it’s worth.
An agreed value policy sets a predetermined value for your vehicle with the insurer. If the car is totaled or stolen, the payout is based on that agreed amount, which reduces negotiation after a loss.
"When you need parts for your car, finding them is half the battle and we have a great source for you to find those parts you need at great prices... check out car-part.com."
Car-part.com helps you find used car parts online. Instead of calling around, you can search and compare options from recyclers, often with compatibility info so you get the right fit.
Car-part.com is an online marketplace for used auto parts, connecting you with recyclers across North America. The key value is broad inventory (including older vehicles) and the ability to search by fitment so you can find compatible parts faster.
"We even let you know what parts from other models and years fit your car. Many recyclers supply pictures of their parts too."
Fitment just means “will this part work on my car?” The service helps you figure out which years/models are compatible so you don’t waste money on the wrong part.
Fitment is whether a part from a specific vehicle (make/model/year) will physically and functionally work on your car. The transcript mentions that the site helps you identify parts from other models/years that still fit, which reduces the risk of buying the wrong component.
"Our partner at Road Ready Wheels has wheels, thousands of wheels, affordable in stock and ready to ship to you... Replace or upgrade your damaged or plain steel factory wheels with new OEM looking road ready wheels."
Road Ready Wheels sells replacement wheels at lower prices than dealers. They’re aimed at people who want a factory-like look and a practical option for things like winter tires.
Road Ready Wheels is a wheel retailer focused on affordable wheels that look like OEM (factory) options. The episode positions it as a way to replace damaged or plain steel wheels, including for winter-tire setups.
"Replace or upgrade your damaged or plain steel factory wheels with new OEM looking road ready wheels."
OEM means “factory-style.” Here it means the wheels are designed to look like the ones your car originally came with.
OEM stands for “original equipment manufacturer,” meaning parts that match what the car came with from the factory. In this context, “OEM looking” wheels are intended to resemble factory wheels so the car keeps a stock-like appearance.
"We recommend those because they will catch particles that they will get into those coolers and it's like a heater core on a car that doesn't"
A heater core is a small heat exchanger inside the HVAC system that uses engine coolant to warm the cabin. The speaker uses it as an analogy for how restrictive small passages can be—if they clog, heat output drops and service becomes more involved.
"I have a 2013 Chevy Traverse with a six-cylinder in it, 240,000 miles and I am getting some chatter in my torque converter."
The torque converter is part of an automatic transmission that helps the car smoothly transfer power from the engine. If it starts making chatter, it can be a sign the transmission fluid is worn out or there’s a problem inside. Checking and refreshing the fluid is often the first thing to try.
The torque converter is the fluid coupling between the engine and the automatic transmission. It uses transmission fluid to transmit torque smoothly, and when fluid is old or contaminated—or if internal components wear—it can cause chatter, shuddering, or vibration. Addressing fluid condition is often the first step before considering deeper repairs.
"Wondering what my best options are here. If there's any additives to help that, or if that's going to have to come apart. Yeah, there are. There are some things you can do for that."
Transmission additives are chemical products mixed into the fluid to change friction characteristics, reduce noise, or help clean/condition internal components. In torque-converter chatter cases, additives are sometimes tried after a fluid change, but they’re not a guaranteed fix for mechanical wear. The host suggests starting with fluid replacement and then considering additives.
"I got a 2011 Craigslist 300T with the 5.7 unit. So we were driving it yesterday. We drove about 45 minutes and everything was fine, but it has a P0440. Oh yeah, EVA."
P0440 is a check-engine code for the car’s emissions system that handles fuel vapors. It usually means there’s a leak or a problem in the hoses/valves that route those vapors.
P0440 is an OBD-II diagnostic trouble code related to the vehicle’s evaporative emissions (EVAP) system. It typically points to a problem with EVAP flow/venting, often caused by a leak in hoses/lines, a stuck valve, or a faulty sensor.
"...try to repair it and clear the code and see if it goes away."
“Clearing the code” resets the OBD-II trouble code so the computer can re-evaluate whether the fault returns. It’s often done after a suspected repair (like fixing a leak) to confirm the issue is resolved.
P0300 means the engine is misfiring in more than one cylinder. That can be caused by ignition problems, fuel issues, or sometimes air leaks.
P0300 is a common OBD-II code for random/multiple cylinder misfires. It’s often associated with ignition issues (like coils/spark) or fuel/air problems, and it helps prioritize what to test first.
"I went to the O'Reilly to have the codes read just to see. And then it had no codes and then it would go started again and it died."
O’Reilly is a car parts store. They can often scan your car for error codes to help figure out what’s wrong.
O’Reilly is an automotive parts retailer that commonly offers code reading services. In the episode, the caller uses it to check for stored trouble codes during the start/die cycle.
"...There you go. Just go down, go down advanced auto parts, buy a switch, right? You bring the switch home before you install it so you can return it if you need to..."
They’re suggesting you get the replacement part from a parts store like Advanced Auto Parts. The idea is to test it and return it if it turns out not to be the right fix.
Advanced Auto Parts is a retail chain that sells automotive parts, including common replacement items like steering-column switches. The speaker’s advice is essentially to buy the suspected switch and return it if it doesn’t fix the issue, which reduces risk when diagnosing.
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Now here is the Under the Hood Show podcast. This is Under the Hood. Welcome to the Under
the Hood Show. We are glad to have you with us. Russ Evans is here to answer your automotive
questions. Thanks for joining us under the hood. Shannon Nordstrom is not here to answer your
questions. I'm Chris Carter. I'm here to answer your calls at 866-594-4150. 866-594-4150.
And I'm wired because I stopped doing the coffee thing a while ago. Okay. And when I do the coffee,
I do the decaf. Right. But being under the hood. Until today. Yeah. So being under the hood like I
am, you know, I'm in tune to everything mechanical, right? Now there's probably no one out there
in the country, at least in the United States of America, that has not seen one of those new
coffee machines where it grinds your coffee for you at the gas station, right? You go up,
put your cup there, you push the button, and it's usually has three grinders on top,
three different kinds of coffee, and it just grinds it and puts it in there. Some coffee
art or something they call it. That's the thing. Used to be in the pot. Remember we just had a
pot you poured in. I've never seen this machine. Well, a lot of people have. Sure.
The gas, I used to go to many gas stations to convenience stores to fuel up my car with a gas,
non-electricity from a truck. And so I would grab coffee. But there's this one that for over
five years has had this problem, and I've spoke to him about it before, and they're like, whatever.
When you push the button and it starts grinding the coffee, it has labels on those three up top,
like Highlander, Grog, you know, super extreme trucker blend, and then decaf. Well, I hit the
decaf button, and every time I watch the thing move and the coffee beans go down a little bit,
except keep refilling them. Sure. And it's always like the extreme caffeine one from just this place.
And only one of their machines has a decaf. And I've told him, look, this is not when you push
this, you need to switch these labels and put the decaf, whatever. And a couple of them said,
yeah, we know it, but it's not that big a deal. I said, it is to me. And then they said, well,
would you like, here, I'll just give this one to you. And I'm like, well, great. But now I'm
going to be wired. And I got to do my show today. So I could answer 50 calls in an hour. So bring
them in, crank them up, baby. I dare you. 866-594-4150. Let's go to Kansas right off the bat and talk
to Cedric here on the end of the hood show. Cedric, what can we do for you?
Got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0 in line six automatic. It runs.
And I drive about four hours and it gets to where you get back to town. It shuts off,
runs, dies, runs, dies. And then I get it running. It chug it, chug it. And there's times when I'm at
the stop sign, it wants to surge at times. And this morning, I started it and let it warm up,
drove down to the corner and half a block and went to turn and it died and put water on the
heat. After on the heating rooms, wore of it and cooled it off and started back up. And
there are seven codes just come up that don't know what it wanted to be or nothing.
This thing's a mess, Cedric.
It is. You just, I guess, carry a bucket of ice water with you when it starts acting up.
Is it vapor locking?
No, I think he's probably got a sensor overheating on it that's just failing.
Could be a crank sensor.
Put some foil on it to keep vapor locking. I was told to do so, but also I was told about a closed
bin.
Okay. So cars don't vapor lock anymore.
Yeah, that's not it.
And it's impossible to vapor lock, but here's why. So for people that I've never liked when somebody
says, well, this doesn't happen anymore unless they say, well, tell me why. It doesn't happen
because of pressure. We had vapor lock in the past because we had basically no fuel pressure,
maybe a pound just to get it up to the carburetor and pour in. But when you start applying more,
the more heat you have, the more the temperature increases, the more fuel pressure you need to
avoid vapor lock. So if you've got a 100 degrees, you need, you know, half a pound at 200 degrees
under hood temp, you need a couple pounds. That's why we would put things on a dissipate heat like
closed pins. When you get to 300 degrees under hood temperatures, which is very likely in today's
cars, which it's just gets hot. You need like eight to 10 pounds of fuel pressure to not have
the fuel boil. That's why a radiator doesn't boil with a cap on it. 16 pounds. It doesn't boil
when it gets up to 260 degrees. It has to get hot. So we don't have vapor lock anymore. So I wouldn't
worry about that unless you have so low a fuel pressure, it's making the vehicle run poorly and
a quick fuel pressure check with a gauge would tell you that and that would eliminate all your
problems. I think you could have a fuel pressure issue, bad pump. No filter. I don't believe on
04 Jeep any longer. It's in the tank. So you could have a weak pump because of the filter in the tank
clogging up or a bad pump itself, the motor going out. Or it could be that you've got a
failing sensor. You got a mass air flow that's failing. You've got a map sensor that's got an
issue. You've got a crank sensor or cam sensor. And those are things that a professional shop
would look at on the scanner as somebody else is driving in the tech in the passenger side,
to be reading it, maybe recording the data and playing it back to see when it starts to fail,
which sensor is weak. But my first check on that if it came into my shop would be to put a fuel
pressure gauge on it, verify that first, but verify it when it's cold and running well,
write that down, and then verify it when it's completely warmed up and acting poorly. You've
got to see the difference because I could check and say, oh, your fuel pressure is fine. But
it's not fine once it's completely warmed up. So that's what you're gonna have to do. You're
gonna have to get it into a shop. They'll have to see it run good and see it run bad and compare
those two readings and see which thing has failed fuel pressure or a sensor. Is that
to help you out there, Cedric? Well, there's a certain codes that comes up like a camshaft
position sensor. There you go. Circuit or the system lean bank one or heater bank sensor one.
Gotcha. Those are O2 codes. Those heater codes, that's part of your oxygen sensor and that won't
affect the way it's running. That only affects emissions as it's warming up. Once it's completely
warmed up, like maybe five minutes, those are good. But that cam sensor code can cause O2 sensor
codes by it running poorly. That's the top one. The first code that shows up as the priority code
everything below it. You start at the top and go your way down. A cam sensor failing would act
exactly the way yours is acting. Either the sensor failed or the wiring to it is having a problem.
So it's causing it down. I would start looking at that first. Cedric, thanks very much for the
call. The good news is it sounds like it's gonna be recreatable, right? Recreatable and it doesn't
sound like it's an end of the world problem. It sounds like it's fairly affordable fix and not
something giant, hopefully. Cedric, thanks very much for the call. Good luck. 866-594-4150.
That's the number to reach us here at the end of the hood show. Let's go to Minnesota and talk to
Steve here on the end of the hood show. Steve, what can we do for you? Thank you for taking my
call. I have no issues or problems, but I'm an elderly retiree and I want to carry this truck
on for many years. I have a 21 Silverado. It's got the new four-cylinder turbo with an 8-speed
transmission. It runs out beautiful. Love the truck, but I know they put it in the Colorado's
now because I think they said it was working pretty well for them. So just wondering if you
know anything more about these engines. I want to keep it a long time and a good unit.
Well, we have not had any issues with those engines as of yet. We're not putting any in. We're
selling very few of them, but it is important to keep up all the maintenance on that. Get with your
local mechanic that you're using to service the vehicle. Have them look through recommended
maintenance and follow that. I would say that since we're not getting a big call for engines in
these yet, and we are getting calls for replacement engines and transmissions in some other vehicles
that are only, you know, 22 and 23 models that are out of warranty, I'd say this one's probably
holding up pretty well. We've got a couple customers that own these that have over 150,000 miles on
them that have not yet had any problems, and they're just doing the regular maintenance
intervals on them. So I think, you know, I feel it's probably a pretty good vehicle overall.
None of our people are towing with them, so I don't know how that would go. Usually when
you get a smaller turbo engine, you can run into some towing issues. This is a fairly large
displacement engine for a four-cylinder turbo compared to some of the other ones that we
talk about that are four-cylinder turbos like the one-liters and things like that.
But, you know, I wouldn't be afraid of it. I think as far as longevity goes, it'd probably be a
pretty good engine to keep for a while, but you got to do that. Maintenance is so important on
these vehicles, especially oil changes. Anything with, you know, internal wet belts, if you're not
changing that oil, that acid's going to break down those belts. And if you don't change the oil,
you're going to have lifter issues and things like that, and just wear. Oil changes are so
important. Most of the vehicles that come into our shop for engine repairs are brought in because
of oil system failures above anything else, even seals and troubles. It has towed my boat very well.
I can cruise down the road with everybody, and I'm happy with it. It works well. I just want to make
sure that I stay on top of it. I want to be a good long unit because it's too costly to replace
these things nowadays. Sure. Now, what are you towing with it? It's a 1500. It's not a half ton.
It's more than a half, but a 1500. What do you tell me? Well, it's supposed to be rated because
of the displacement of the engine. It's a 310 horsepower. I tow a 18-foot boat with it. I've
towed my skid loader. It says that I can tow up to 7,000 pounds on the tongue or 9,000 on a
gooseneck application, which I wouldn't wreck my truck doing that. But I tow with no problems,
and it keeps up on the road very well, and I get along on the highway with everybody.
Because of the 8-speed transmission, it's just got that extra shifting capacity where
the engine can move it through real quick. It's huge. That extra gears in the transmission
make a huge difference in towing. When Shannon upgraded his old truck with a 6-speed transmission
to a new one with a 10-speed transmission, he thought what he was pulling with his big snowmobile
trailer, he thought, well, I don't know what it's going to do because the old one, it struggled a
little bit, but it was pretty tough. But when he went to the new one, he says it was like night
and day, and it's the same size engine, but that extra gearing just made it so much smoother,
and the fuel economy even went up. So I think you're on the right move there.
It doesn't seem to suffer or drag because it's got the extra gears to go through,
so it just doesn't work as hard. Right. Yeah, I think you're on the right track there.
Well, I appreciate it. Thank you much for your input. I appreciate it.
Steve, thanks very much for the call. 866-594-4150. Let's go to Canada. Montrelle,
talk to Ian. You're on the end of the hood show. Ian, what can we do for you?
Watching you right now on YouTube. Great show. Stumbled upon you just by fluke because I follow
three or four other mechanics who do daily shows on repairs and whatnot. My question is this,
two doors, a Starsky and Hunt replica. About 20 years ago, I installed a vintage air type
air conditioning system. It uses the factory condenser, a sand and 508 compressor, which is
pretty standard, receiver dryer, and the evap, if you have ever seen those Mustang under dash
units, similar to that, but it goes up behind the dashboard. I had to remove the glove compartment,
cardboard in there. Now, vintage, I've been following the vintage air tech documents.
They recommend charging their systems or their type systems with 24 ounces of 134
refrigerant, which I do. Now, the air blows cold in my driveway, but after about half an hour of
driving, I kind of lose volume of air coming out of the dash vents. The temperature is cold,
but there's not enough air, even if you put the fan on high speed. Now, I think I'm undercharged.
But you're losing my volume, right? You're losing the wind is not blowing like it's supposed to?
Exactly. So I think that is freezing after running for a while because I'm undercharged,
and of course the pressures are low, but vintage air pressures are weird because if you look at
their tech documents, their pressures are really low, and I don't understand why, because
pressure volume temperature is a constant thing. So my question is this, should I add in
a third can, another 12 ounces, and see what happens and watch my pressures?
I wouldn't add the whole can in. You're going to have to, so you're going to look online and see
there'll be temperature charts and pressure charts, and you can measure the high pressure side and the
low pressure side, and it'll be different between one with an orifice tube and one with an expansion
valve, I'm assuming because all these have an expansion valve. Good, then I assumed right today,
and I didn't make a assume out of me or you. So with an expansion valve, it'll say what the inlet
and outlet temperature, high pressure and low side, should be on that. Not pressure, but actual
temperature, so you get that evaporator flooded and it doesn't freeze over. I would start adding
slowly like an ounce at a time and then wait three or four minutes of idle time until they even out
and see what they are. You might find you're as minimal as three ounces low, that would do it,
and then when you get it to that perfect spot, you're right. If you put the whole 12 ounces in,
I think you're going to be too much because we used to be a vintager dealer, I think maybe we
still are, but I haven't bought anything in 10 years, and we put a lot of these in, but sometimes
we'd use longer hoses or shorter hoses, and when I add three feet to a unit, I can't go with what
they gave me for original charge. It's not enough, so I have to add or if I shorten them up by three
feet, I got to take some away. So that's just a baseline and I've talked to the vintager attacks
and they said, yeah, you know, it'll work, but it's better if you start from the beginning,
if you evacuate it, you charge it and make sure it's dead on. So I think you're on the right
track. Okay, I've gotten pretty well equipped for that. I have a vacuum pump, I've got a recovery
take, and even though 134 is not available to the public up here at the side of the line,
whenever we're down, my wife and I are down in New England, I'll pick up a few cans at Walmart
or wherever and bring it back. So I'm well supplied. Second fast question. Hold on quick,
before you get to your second question, I guess it's read with a white stripe. Okay, I'm up one
to nothing. Go ahead with your second question, Ian. Okay, sorry. During the winter, I obviously
don't drive the car because our, you know, cold conditions, bad roads, etc. I usually pull it
out in April. Now, if I leave the car sit, even in the summertime, I leave it sit for, let's say,
a week, I don't drive it, and I go to start it. Now, so it's a carburetor engine. It's an Edelbrock
manual choke four barrel, 1405 Edelbrock. On an Edelbrock intake, the internals of the motor
are stock. I've got some shorty headers and a full master exhaust system. Pretty standard,
the electronic ignition, pretty standard stuff. When I go to start it, it kind of, I don't know,
for the first 10 seconds, it kind of almost diesels or chuggles, and then it'll pick up
and it'll run smoothly, it'll be fine. If I run it every day, every couple of days, it starts fine.
So I don't know if it's my, the lifters are leaking down and I'm not getting the valves
opening and closing right for the first few seconds until it builds oil pressure,
and my oil pressure is good, it's about 50 PSI. The engine's nice, it's tight, it gives me no issues.
So I'm just wondering what your thoughts are on that, maybe, maybe too much choke when I'm,
when I'm, you know, when I pull the choke close, I don't know. I would guess, and I'm only throwing
a guess out there, but by seeing this on my own vehicles that I've had to overcome,
I would bet your fuel level bleeds down a little bit or evaporates out of that,
that carburetor you have on that, just a little bit. So when you crank it,
it's got to, it's got to fill it up. One thing you could do, just to try to verify that,
unplug the coil wire so it won't fire, leave the choke wide open and stand on the throttle
all the way, so it's got no vacuum. You want it wide open, you want the throttles wide open,
unplug, spark plug coil wire, crank the engine for about 10 seconds, that'll fill the carburetor,
I just do it for five seconds, that'll fill the carburetor with fuel, but it won't be sucking any
into the, the engine because there's no vacuum, you get the throttle open,
then plug the coil wire in, do the normal choke thing. And if it fires right up immediately,
it's a loss of fuel out of that. And those Edelbrocks, if you take the carburetor off
after the engine's cooled down, but you've run it the day, just take it off and slowly lift it
straight up and move it over and set it straight down on your bench and let it sit there. If it
sits there for two or three or four hours, and then you lift it up and move it without spilling
the fuel, and it's wet underneath, the carburetor's leaking. And you can, you can repair that with
some epoxy out the bottom. It's usually down by the bottom jets is where they leaked out the bottom.
And if it does that, yeah, you can fix it. Otherwise, you can just live with what it's doing. But
I think if you seal that up, you'll be much happier because when you have a car like that,
you want everything to be perfect. And it's like, oh, I'll let it sit for four or five days as we
get started right up. It just gives you a sense of satisfaction. Yeah, though it always starts,
but it just makes this wicked, uh, uh, juggling or diesel. Is it for the first 10 seconds? I think
it's low. It bothers me. I think it's low on fuel. Ian, thanks very much for the call. Good luck.
I have to say, that was a fun call. Yeah, it was. That's fun. Having that car.
And in Montreal, we were up there in the snow in the winter, so we could see why it doesn't
drive it. But can you imagine running through those mountains, Chris, in the summer? That'd be
great. The Under the Hood Show podcast is brought to you by exclusive sponsors like Berkeley One
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Tell them you heard it under the hood. We've been using them for our own cars for decades,
literally decades. And it's, we love it. I mean, the rates everywhere on stuff has been going up.
And we're certainly coming into the part of the year where you start thinking about that.
You're thinking about it, but you've kept your coverage on your car. Most people,
I see them with, you know, a regular rate at a regular, like they're doing their auto on.
Oh, you're, you're crazy if you do that. It is so expensive compared to
collector card agreed, valued coverage. It's just everybody wants to save money right now.
If you're paying more for gas, you got to offset it somewhere else. Well,
if you got a collector car, there you go. Offset it there.
866-594-4150. Let's talk to Shiloh. You're on the end of the hood show. Shiloh, what can we do for you?
Hey, so I'm still working on my 08 F350 6.4 liter diesel. And I can't really find any good YouTube
videos on how to build out or what I need to do to replace the fuel cooler pump or secondary
coolant pump. It's got a bunch of different names. So I was hoping that maybe you would be able to,
is there anything special I need to do or can I just unbolt it and pull the hoses and
put the new one on or? Pretty much. Yeah. I was going to say, I can't really,
okay, without standing in front of me and showing you, there's not a way to do it. You might be able
to find that under, I say, looking up that, you're probably not going to find it. But if you look up
like bulletproof diesel upgrades for other things that require pulling the pump off first
to do that, you might be able to see how they do the whole process. Look up like injector pump
replacement or something. So you see the whole or EGR cooler where they're tearing the whole thing
down. But like first, you got to take this off. And oh, by the way, this is how you go when you're
putting it back together. But that one is pretty straightforward. They like to use that. But no,
are you talking about putting the one on there that's got the coolant filter on it as well?
No, this is just, it's attached, I believe, to the heat transfer. Yeah, right up by the
radiators and intercoolers and everything at the bottom front end driver side, I believe.
They put coolant filters on a lot of those to filter out metals and things that get in there.
And it really helps because it keeps the coolers that rely on the coolant that's being pumped
through the engine keeps them clean. There's so small passages in some of these coolers on these
vehicles that if you have a filter in there, it's amazing what it traps to if you if you
replace that pump, I would strongly suggest putting the filter on there and also running
the Ford cleaner that they sell through there to clean out this cooling system.
That would that'd be important too. If you're going to the trouble of working on the cooling
system, a filter and using the cleaner in there and the cleaner is not just like pour it in,
flush it out, it's a process. So you've got to put it in there, run it, neutralize it the whole
bit, but it's worth it for the longevity of the truck. Does that help you out there, Shiloh?
Would you recommend putting, yes, yes, that helps me out, thank you.
Go ahead with your question, go ahead, ask that. Okay, sorry, I was going to say would you
recommend putting the coolant, I think they're catch cans or baffle cans that like help catch
all those particles in the fan from the block going through the coolant system.
That's the coolant filter I was talking about, so yes.
Okay, okay, okay. That is that's exactly whatever they, you know, people call different things,
definitely something important to do. We recommend those because they will catch
particles that they will get into those coolers and it's like a heater core on a car that doesn't
work real well because it's got garbage built up in it. Well, what happens there is it doesn't
get warm in the car, but imagine the other way where something's warm and you want to remove
the heat from it, it can't remove that heat, so it just gets hot and burns things up. So
it's just exactly opposite of that heater core, it's a heat exchanger, you want to keep it clean.
Shiloh, thanks very much for the call, good luck. You know, one of the things that we're
running into problems with now is because so much is available on YouTube specifically.
Whether it's good or bad, it's available. Well, but even if you, if like I had someone
asked me the other day about something and I said, oh, let me take a look, see if I can find it.
I must have looked for 10 minutes, maybe, maybe 15 minutes and I was like, no, no one has anything
about it. It's not available because I looked for seems like forever. No, I looked for 10 minutes.
It wasn't there or something like that doesn't exist. That's a good point though to look for
something where they have to get there first. I did something the other day. I don't know what
it was, but you're right. I was looked and I said, if I'm not finding it, there's probably,
there's probably, well, literally for you, there was probably maybe a thousand videos out there
about it. Yeah. But they're so small and they're so irrelevant that YouTube isn't going to show
them to you. They want to show you something that doesn't matter. It was that. It was that that we
were talking about. Yeah, 866. I was like, nope, doesn't exist. You're like, in this case, I think
we were right. But yeah, it was funny. 866-594-4150. Let's talk to Byron. You're on the end of the
hood show. Byron, what can we do for you? Thanks for taking my call. I have a 2013 Chevy Traverse
with a six-cylinder in it, 240,000 miles and I am getting some chatter in my torque converter.
Okay. I believe that fluid is probably original in it.
Wondering what my best options are here. If there's any additives to help that, or if that's
going to have to come apart. Yeah, there are. There are some things you can do for that. I would
change the fluid first with an upgraded fluid, either like a valvelling max life or a shafers,
one of the higher end Dextron six replacements. And then there are some shutter additives you
can put in there. Specifically for the, for that, Justice Brothers makes one that we have at our
shop and other professional shops will carry it, which is a transmission conditioner. That's a
good product for helping with the shutter. And then there's some other shutter fixes out there
you can find as well. But when you get that many miles, the shutter is really not damaging the
transmission, but it feels horrible. And at some point you'll have other things go wrong, but the
shutter itself, it's really annoying. But with that many miles, that's a lot of miles for one of
those transmissions. 300 is, I would say, whoa, I'm surprised it's still running. But you know,
when you get 250, I think you might be able to stretch it a little longer with some additive and
and a flush with the upgraded fluid. If you flush it with the same fluid, you're looking for the
same kind of issue. But we've used valvelling max life in our shop, we've used shafers, and both of
those have helped us with the shutter problem on the GM transmissions. Do you baby this one along?
Do you just? Yeah, yeah, you try it. You try to drive it. I think he's asking me on this one.
I was like, Well, how do you repair it, Russ? You do be a little easier with it, especially when
it's colder, or you're asking for trouble. I would bet if I hopped in that for you right now and drove
it cold and drove it like a three quarters rattle to really push it hard to get it, I could probably
kill that transmission in a couple days. So you want to be easy. And in that case, Chris, I might
be able to drive the thing another two or three years and get another 40,000 out of it. But you'll
know when it starts banging between gears, shifting very hard, that means it's slipping enough
that it's turned the pressure all the way up to cover that up. And that is your indication that
she's ready to go soon. Okay, so the car does stay in a heating garage, which I think helps a lot.
A lot. Also, so you're saying I should not just drain it and put new fluid in it should be flushed?
Unless the fluid is black, if it is black as black tires, okay, if it was, don't change it,
don't touch it. But if it's still very red or a reddish orange, like an old tomato, like the
inside of a tomato, that color, Chris, not bright red, but the kind you buy in the store now that
are made in who knows where. Then you can flush it. Then I would completely flush it.
A partial change isn't going to do it. Professional machine, professional machine,
or look on YouTube, there's ways to do it at home with the one line method thing in a bucket.
We used to do that before we had a flush machine 25 years ago, but there's ways around it. You
can do it on this transmission, but it's got to be completely flush. You want to get all that out
because what's happening is the fluid in there is just not, it's binding a little bit and it's
not allowing that torque converter to shift like it's supposed to, slip like it's supposed to.
So it's not that hard to flush it, you're saying, even if I did it myself.
It can be done. It's not one of those, I wouldn't say it's up to you to do what you want, but you'll
see people on YouTube where they take off the line going into the cooler, they'll put it in a
bucket. You got to make sure you don't run it dry. You got to fill it as you're draining it. It's
tricky because the way this transmission fills, you don't know what the level is because it's
got to plug in the end instead of a dipstick, but there are ways that you can do it. It's going to
tedious. So, Byron, thanks very much for the call. 866-594-4150. That's the number to reach
us here at the Under the Hood Show. Let's go to New York and talk to Benjamin. You're on the
Under the Hood Show, Benjamin. What can we do for you? Hi, how's it going? I got a 2011
Craigslist 300T with the 5.7 unit. So we were driving it yesterday. We drove about 45 minutes
and everything was fine, but it has a P0440. Oh yeah, EVA. It smells really bad when you're driving it.
Like in the cab, it smells like, I don't know, kind of, yeah, gassy, kind of like,
kind of like eggy smell. Yeah, so if you're smelling that and you've got a PO440, I'm thinking you
probably have a leak that you're smelling the fumes. It could be as simple as a broken plastic line
under the car, especially if you've been driving up there in New York. You got some snow lately.
I mean, you could have, some ice could have got under there and broke one of those plastic lines.
Somebody's going to need to get that car up off the ground where you could, you may even just
lay down next to it and take a peek and see if you see a line hanging down where it broke. We've
seen that before, but if that plastic vent line is broken, you'll get that code and you'll smell
fumes because it's venting right into the air. But that's the first thing I would do. Whenever we
have that code combined with the smell, we look for a physically broken line, try to repair it
and clear the code and see if it goes away. All right. Okay. And then so we ended up just
picking up the car yesterday. My buddy had to buy and it has like 130,000 miles on it. It's kind of
taken a little bit. We bought the Lucas oil to put in there and then so we were pulling into his
garage last night and then the power steering pump had stopped working. Like the, there's a red
flashing light on it for indicating the steering wheel and then it has no power steering. It's
hard to turn. So last night we checked the fluid and then we put some fluid in there
and then still nothing. Yeah, you may, you may have either a bad rack or a bad pump. If you can
see the fluid moving inside of the pump when you pull the cap off, the pump's usually good. That
usually means it's the rack. But if you don't see any fluid moving at all, it's usually the pump that
has failed itself. And for that ticking noise, the best thing we've seen to fix when you've got
stuck lifters like that on the ticking on those Chrysler engines is the hot shot secret
lifter tick and repair. You pour that in there. Usually what we do is we warm up the engine,
shut it off, pour the whole bottle and then start it up and run it, let it idle for about 10 minutes.
And that's been huge for fixing that. It's a newer product they have that's worked really
well for that. But that pump, take a peek, take the cap off, look in there and see if it's swirling.
If it's swirling, more than likely a rack. If it's not swirling, probably a pump. Benjamin,
thanks very much for the call. Good luck. 866-594-4150. Let's go to Arizona and talk to
Ezraia. Go ahead. All right. So I was driving my truck down our local interstate and my truck
just died on me. I don't know, I explained it. I got a P1300 code and I'm wondering what to do.
Like I've already went and bought new coils and I tried that. Check voltage, you saw there.
P0300? P0300 or P1300? P1300.
Yeah. You know what? If I had a scanner plugged into it, the first thing I'd look at would be
RPM. See if it's showing that I have RPM when I'm cranking it. I'm guessing with a
P1300, you may not have RPM signal there. It may be that it lost the crank sensor, so it would
immediately die and it would not fire. You could put coils and all that stuff on there because
you're trying to get spark back. Yeah, because it started right back up after 10 minutes and then
got it at home. It drove perfectly fine. Then died again. I changed out the coil. Yeah. And then
after I fixed the coils and stuff, I checked it to make sure that I was getting a signal
back thing that it sparked. I went to the O'Reilly to have the codes read just to see.
And then it had no codes and then it would go started again and it died. Then 10 minutes later,
it let me start it back up and go perfectly fine. Yeah. So what happens is there's a coil wound up
inside of epoxy inside of that crankshaft sensor. And that will open up. It'll get a break in it
will open up when it gets warmer and then it'll close when it cools down and so it'll fail. So
it'll run until it's warm, then it'll shut off, but eventually it'll die. And when you replace
that, if you decide, and they're not that expensive, so I would suggest doing it anyways,
look into when you go into the auto parts store, advance auto parts will carry motor rad parts.
And motor rad is a partner of ours as well. And what I've discovered from talking with their
engineers and things is that they build their windings heavier and they use more of them and
their epoxy is better the way they cast them. So they're completely encapsulated. So if a wire were
to open up, it's going to hold it together better than a lot of other cheaper like OEM sensor where
when the wire breaks, it just opens, it gets a gap in there. So they last longer for ignition coils
or crank sensors or cam sensors. I would look into the motor rad one because you're going to be paying
the same price. You might as well get one. That's what we're here for is to help you pick one that's
good. But I would start with a crank sensor on that one to give it a shot. That's a very
strong possibility. You bet. Thanks very much for the call. 866-594-4150. Let's talk to Dale.
You're on the end of the hood show. Dale, what can we do for you?
Yeah, I've got a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the transmission on it is starting to do
weird things. I was driving with the crews on and came up to the stop sign. So I just hit the
cancel button, stopped and went again and hit the resume. Well, when it gets up to speed,
you know, just about up to the 65, if it was on the last shift or whatever, it made a heck of a
bang or a clunk, more like a clunk noise. Just before it shifts. Well, that could be so.
Yeah, I don't know if it was before it shifted or in the shift or what. And then a couple days later,
I went over a railroad track and the same thing as I was accelerating. I slowed up for that and,
you know, when I got the cruising speed again, the clunk.
It's either going into high gear or it's the torque converter locking up. That's what we've
felt and heard in a lot of these Jeeps like that with that model transmission.
And usually it just continues to get worse. There's no fix without taking it apart and basically
completely rebuilding it because when you're going to repair that portion, you have to go through
everything else first. So it's a rebuild. It could go quite a while yet doing this,
but something very important to do when you're taking apart to either work on it to fix it
or whether you're replacing it is to check the flow of that transmission cooler.
They will clog up with material left over from the clutches as they wear on these transmissions
for not being flushed often enough. And they will also collapse. The cooler will collapse as it gets
old. The heat as it builds up will, it'll collapse when it's hot. And then when it's cool, it won't
or the thermostat that's in there will stick. It's got a thermostat to warm it up faster when
it's cold, which really doesn't do a lot of good on these, but when it sticks, it'll kill it.
So you've got to make sure that it's not overheating and it may, that may be what's causing it right
now causing that issue is that if it's fine when it's cold, but once it warms up, like after 20
minutes of driving, maybe that that thermostat sticking. So you'll want to have a shop check
that to verify that transmission temp isn't getting too hot because that will kill a transmission.
Dale, thanks very much for the call. Good luck. 866-594-4150. Let's see if we can get one more in.
Let's talk to Dan in North Dakota. You're on the end of the hood show. Dan, what can we do for you?
Say, I got to tell you something funny. When I, I've listened to you guys for years and then I
started listening on the app. So then you finally get to see your guys' faces. So I was trying to
guess who is who and I was completely wrong. So anyway, so sometimes you give people,
you give people a face when you listen to them on the radio and you have no idea what you look
like. You just kind of invent what they look like and I'm not even close. Who do you think I was?
Stop, stop, stop, stop. Don't, Dan, stop talking for a second. Russ, don't ever ask any of those
questions. Trust me. I've been doing radio a long time. Once they say that, just stop. Just don't.
You probably thought I looked like Brad Pitt, right? Don't look any further. Don't ask any questions.
Let's just get to his car issue because this never goes well. No. Dan, what can we do about your car question?
Okay. So, so Russ, I will tell you this. You guys are way better looking in reality than I thought you were.
So there you go. Okay. We'll stop at that. We're good. Yeah. Yeah. Okay. Okay. So
I got a lot of questions, but my 75 Chevy, 75 Chevy K5 Blazer, I got no turn signals.
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